dogma1978

Budding Enthusiast
  • Content count

    33
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About dogma1978

  • Rank
    Settling In Well

Contact Methods

  • First Name
    JIM

Profile Information

  • Gender*
    Male
  • Ford Model
    fiesta climate
  • Ford Year
    2008
  • UK/Ireland Location
    Essex
  • Annual Mileage
    0 to 5000
  • Interests
    General Automotive
    Motorsport & Racing
    Car Restoration
    Car Modification
    Food & Drink
    Entertainment
    Computers & Electronics
  1. Your not wrong theredfox. I was sadly ripped off by a dealer :(
  2. I have a 2008 focus titanium. Only had it since Feb. So far £1500 on new clutch, dmf, gearbox and few other bits. :(
  3. Hi to all. I'm looking for some advice regarding my 2008 focus titanium. I bought it in Feb and it was fitted with a parrot system which I hated. I removed this system as I wanted to use the aux and USB connections. So after removing I plugged everything back into the quad lock but noticed that the ground for both the aux and steering wheel control had been cut. I also noticed the ground wire coming from the aux white plug was brown/white yet the wire from the loom was black. I re-connected the wires and the steering wheel control worked but the aux was still dead. I've looked for any other cut wires and even removed the centre arm rest to check the connections, checked Bluetooth module and checked it's all plugged in but all appears fine. I bought a new aux wiring from fords with the aux socket at one end with the white plug on the other, plugged it in and although I can play music via the aux the left speakers are extremely distorted and sound awful, but there fine with the radio and cd. I also replaced the aux in cable but the same results. The Bluetooth won't connect to my iPhone and the USB will only charge. I've formatted a new 4gb flash drive with fat32 and plugged it in but not a thing from the head unit, it's like it's not connected. The head unit is the ford Sony MP3 oval shape (not dab). I'd really appreciate any help on this as driving me up the wall Many thanks Jim
  4. Hi peeps Im afraid im yet again asking for more advice. After giving my car and engine a good look over I noticed that one of the Pulleys is extremely rusty. The one in question is (looking at it from the front of the car) is the one thats closest to the driver. It also has the air con pipes passing close to it. I cant see any wires or anything attached to it but cant see all the way around it tho. It appears to be bolted to the engine and is attached to a large piece of square alloy. I have tried to work out what it is but one diagram says its the Alternator, the other says the Idle pully ? The pully doesnt seem to be making any bad noises but im just worried about the general condition of it as the rest of the engine is in nearly mint condition. I have noticed that rain water seems to be entering the engine bay via the holes where the wiper arms sit. many thanks for your advice many thanks Jim
  5. Thanks Wase. Got a long run somewhere tomorrow but its due for a service so that will cure the oil, ill have a check for the oil leak to. many thanks for your replies, ill report back any finding as might help someone else out whos having similar
  6. Your rite Jaspal. It does say 5/30 but the net does say you can use 10/40, although many say only in high milage engines. I hope its not done/doing any damage :(
  7. Hi Jaspal You might be on to something there. Ill double check now you said that. Is 10/40 a bit thicker then.
  8. Hi all Bit of advice if possible. I have a 2008 MK6 Fiesta with just over 17,000 on the clock. Apart from a hesitation problem the car runs fine but it does seem to use a bit of Oil. I did a run to clacton at the weekend and checked the oil before which was around 3/4. A week later i again checked and it was just below the half mark. Im putting casterol 10/40 in which it says on the manual. But Ive noticed that if I accelerate hard I get a sort of burning smell for a few seconds after. There no smoke from the exhaust and definately no oil patches under the car. Ive checked all over the engine bay and its still inmint condition to. Any ideas are greatly appreciated. Oh the car is used mostly for shorty journeys during the week with a good run at the weekends if that makes in difference regards Jim :)
  9. I think you can get them of Ebay cheap enough mate. Never had them myself but what do they do. :)
  10. Thats mate. Ive done that tonight and will give it a week and do another scan. Fingers crossed :)
  11. Hi Foca The onboard was showing the 9312 code but the diagnostic didnt show it. The headlights have worked fine since ive had the car and would have thought a fuse would have gone by now lol. I think ill try the coil pack next and work my way from that
  12. Hi all I bought a program and lead to connect my fiesta to my laptop to check for fault codes. Its brought up one which says B1312. Ive looked this up and the code means - Headlamp input circuit battery short. Does anyone know what this means. The on board screen shows a code that says the battery has dropped below 12v at some point but have been told this is nothing to worry about. Are the two linked and any ideas how I can correct this kind regards Jim
  13. Hi Foca and all I have done a scan with the F-super diagnostic and it has brought up code B1312. I looked this up and it says it means headlamp input circuit battery short. Im guessing this is not causing the running problems lol but any idea what this means many thanks Jim
  14. Thanks mate, Im getting old lol. Ive ordered the software and will see what it throws up from the car. Sounds like you should get back into the cars tho. Saying that ive not built anything since nov last year. The cost of everything is rising and my wage stays the same lol. Is use to use kent cams to get engines from. I can do the basics but one it goes past the valves in clueless lol. The plugs i pulled out had only been in 6 months and hardly done 3k. The alleged mechanic hadnt put any copper grease on the threads so for a few moments i dreaded the plugs were going to snap but they did come out with a little gentle persuasion lol. Id add a pic but not got a clue how. The ground electrode on the ones i took out is a greyish whte and the base is the usual black. Thanks for your help tho. Ill wait for the diagnostic kit to arrive and ill report back :)
  15. Hi FOCA Thankyou for such a great reply. I have a good set of tools as i build rally cars as a hobbie but can only do the basics with an engine. Saying that most of the cars i deal with are pre 2000 so most have carbs and more simple injection systems. The car itself sounds fine when idling and tends to tick over at around 800rpm. Some times it will drop slightly and then return back to 800. It doesnt seem to make any different noise when it hesitates and ive turned the radio off completely to listen out for any noise changes also. I did have a small diagnostic tool but i found it to be useless. How much would you say a lead and program would be to ling my laptop to the diagnostic port of the car. Ive found the hidden fault code thing on the dash and the DTC is showing code 9312 but have searched high and low and found nothing on the net to say what this code means. I also went to fords but they want £82 for a scan. They also told me that if the engine light had not come on then they probably would not find a fault so it would be a waste of money. The cars only done 17,000 so hopefully not to much wrong many thanks Jim