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paulinsuffolk

Budding Enthusiast
  • Content count

    6
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About paulinsuffolk

  • Rank
    Newbie

Profile Information

  • Ford Model
    Focus 1.8 zetec
  • UK/Ireland Location
    Suffolk
  1. Last year when this first started i checked the 3-pin socket and readings were fine at the time, giving the correct voltage... as you say it could be damaged after the work they've done.. and those wires 'can' break further up that little loom. I'll try another check when it's a bit warmer.! I swapped the relay with another but it still gave the same problem... stops when you give the alternator load though, like heated windows. Strange one this... but apparently not un-common.
  2. I've just checked the battery and it's a Motorcraft Superstart, which i understand is the correct battery fitted by Ford.. it also has the 'Ca' marking on it which in the handbook means silver/calcium. This morning in the cold and without charge from running.. it's 12.7v. Like i say, i'm going back to the original garage as they need to be given 1st chance to offer a repair (not trying to fix it myself, just want to be armed with enough info as possible) if they cant diagnose a fault then yes it will go to Ford main dealers for a fault code reading and repair. After all this It still doesnt explain the battery saver relay clicking and the other probs... only that when you search the net for Focus RTX alternators.. they replies and feedback for that manufacturer are terrible along with ''do not buy''.. lol.!
  3. Wouldnt the diodes in the alternator (after converting from A/C to D/C) effectivly block any power coming back and so only allowing the power to feed one way.. and when the battery has enough power, the regulator (beit smart charge or alternator controled).. back off the charge from the alternator. Either way.. this battery was fitted to the car when we bought it, we've now done in excess of 20k miles on that battery and original alternator before the bearings went.. the problems started when replacement alternators were fitted. PS . The lastest... last night both dip beams blew and the ABS light came on and the speedo/rev needles went crazy.! Really could do with a electics tech/wizard.. is there one here on this forum.?
  4. How would it do that Arthur .. wouldnt the smart charge system pick that up and regulate charge to the battery and not cook the alternator.
  5. Not too sure.. but it is the same one thats been fitted and worked 100% perfect for the last 20k miles with the original alternator.. and the 1st replacement alt.. the only thing thats changed is those alterntors
  6. Hi all.. my first post here and it's technical. I've got an 2003 focus 3-door 1.8 zetec which was absolutely fine until the original alternator went pop last year. We took it to a garage and they fitted a replacement... that lasted 6 months then fried it'self.! We've now had another alternator fitted..(... both are RTX units) but now when the cars ticking over at night the lights are going from dim to bright quickly as if there's not enough power at tickover to keep a constant light, electric windows are slow (lift the revs and they're ok).. and sometimes the battery light comes on even at speed.. but the worst problem is that the battery saver relay behind the glove box is clicking like crazy.!! Irrispective of whether you're doing 70mph .. or ticking over in the drive, but as soon as you give the alternator something to do and put it under load.. ie, put the front & rear screen de-misters on.. the clicking seems to stop. Rather than suggestions of what it might be, i'd be over the moon if someone could give me a genuine technical explaination 'before' i take it along back to the garage who did the work. I'm thinking the alternator isnt man enough for the job ..or it's faulty, and it's confusing the smart charge system with irregular voltage supply. Battery is 12.8v standing cold.. and 14-15v engine running Cheers guys .. appreciate your help.. Paul
  7. Welcome to the Ford forums paulinsuffolk :)