nazsky786

True Ford Enthusiast
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    704
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About nazsky786

  • Rank
    Too much time on the boards

Contact Methods

  • First Name
    Naz

Profile Information

  • Ford Model
    FOCUS MK2
  • Ford Year
    2005
  • UK/Ireland Location
    West Midlands
  • Annual Mileage
    0 to 5000

Recent Profile Visitors

3,577 profile views
  1. Did you keep a note of the old codes before you did a reset? As P1000 suggest someone clear some old codes, pending or stored. P0723 - would suggest you have a wiring issue or sensor issue. As you stated you have change the sensor twice, that would mean you have some wiring tracing to do. You need to see if any wiring has been damaged or kinked. As the signal is intimate you need to check wiring. You could also try going over a bump or harsh road and see what the needle does then. Or something that is shouldn't be but could be a issue is the connector is either not on correctly to the sensor or is worn out, or broken locking tab.
  2. By the sounds of it, it is a dead or potential dead pcm. The ecu can cause all these issues but so can a fuse or wiring issue. It's a lot of work to track electrical issues, some just keep swapping parts until it's fixed. Do as the other member have stated and get the dealership to solve it. As a new ecu is a lot of money, and it doesn't even come programmed to the car.
  3. Starting with the easiest the power steering malfunction can display when you try to start the car multiple times, as to decrease the power in the battery. Low voltage causes this error, but once you have good voltage at the better is should stay off. If you have a diagnostic tool see if you have any codes stored or pending in the PCM. Does the car your having issues with have MAF? Mass Air Flow. It should be located near to the air filter housing. If it does disconnect it and see if the car will start you may need to press the accelerator to get it to not die. If it runs, then you have a faulty MAF, however before we go parts changing you need to make sure all the piping going from the author housing to the throttle body are secure and tight and have absolutely no holes or cuts. Get back to us with the codes and someone on here will help you. Take care
  4. Many places do remaps, it's suggested on here to always have a custom map, as your car could be in better condition engine wise to be able to push more power, it also gives you the opportunity to tell the tech what mods have been done. If it's a standard car you want more power from then bluefin is easiest option, or you can take it to pretty much anyone who does there own maps, don't do off the shelf maps that anyone can download and install, it's safer to keep the original ford pcm file.
  5. ST Conversion is best choice. As JW said you will need some of them parts others you can do at a later date. You cannot use the RS gearbox as the driveshafts will never fit and you wheels will come way out. As RS is wider. ST or RS engine with ST gearbox, and front subframe from ST. ST standard is 225BHP, RS is 300BHP and you could stage 1 the ST and get around 260-270bhp But ST engine would need a Block MOD. RS Cam get away with it but these engines are 1. Hard to find and 2. Worth loads of money. Wiring is easy once you old engine is out. You may also need to swap the abs module unless you find a ST1 wiring harness. The only reason you need to swap the engine bay wiring is for the power steering and some other connections for sensors. You could pick up ST engines for around £2000, including the gearbox etc. Breaking ST for around 1500+ but that's if your lucky. It's cheap if you do the work yourself, if not your out of luck this can cost 1000+ to get a garage to do it. You may also if you have the heater core which has a black clip in the piping need to replace that with complete version without cut, as the ST or RS engine do run coolant alot faster and more pressure. You will also need the top strut mount. All in all this is a engine you can have fun with. BTW its a VOLVO derived T5 Engine. 5 cylinders of pure power and sound. If you crazy enough to beat others to the 600bhp mark.
  6. Whining from the turbo is normal when it is engaging. If it really loud then you have a issue, check air filter is clean, and check oil. But a normal whine when on the power is normal.
  7. On the MK2 the fuse is part of the central locking. So if that is working the fuse is fine. If you have tested both flaps and neither worked, then you have a wiring issue, saying that did you press unlock again on the key fob when it wasn't opening? And has that side of the car been damaged? Also make sure all connectors on the fuse box passenger are secure. The ones your looking for are brown in colour one small one big. Regards
  8. Clips are best just bought from Ford themselves, they will also find you the correct clip for the part. It's just easier.
  9. You get more of a sound having bonnet vents, also help get cold air in from vent and front. The lids as Alex has said are the same, the mk2 and mk3 bottom part of the airbox are different. You can also get bigger snorkels which are standard on the mountune and rs500 airboxs. This is only viable to go this far if you want POWERRRRR!!!!!!!!!
  10. Its more compatible with the Mondeo. I just that I would like the bigger screen, hard to find as stated but would prefer the black with white text, or at least some colour. Had seen a picture of someone having actually done it but can find the pic. once i do i will upload it for all to see.
  11. Standard exhaust cannot be taken off. As they are a complete exhaust up to the cat the only way to remove it complete is to drop the axle on the left and pull the exhaust out. If you have a angle grinder you can make a cut where you would then place a coupler. This is the same process when upgrading your exhaust as it saves time and would be replaced anyway. The is the same for both RS and STs. Some after market do have separations, and couplers. In your case as it is standard and with the understanding its never been touched, then it will still be the complete piece. (just check just incase, might have a coupler there.)
  12. It's best to stick the the mk2.5 cluster with big screen but is it possible to make it colour or even the black with white text? Like on Audi but prefer the colour. Does anyone have a picture of one taken apart and pics of connectors. Might not be as easy as to just swap screen.
  13. Is it possible to use a Smax cluster the one with the big colour screen for the mk2 focus? I know the mk3 focus cluster don't work as on the mk2 the cluster is part of the pats. Do the smax use the cluster in the same way or is it different? If not anyone got a petrol mk2.5 cluster with the big screen?
  14. It would be best to check you battery is in a good condition, most stores IE Halfords do check your battery free, just take battery to your nearest store. Lastly since you have been messing with the passenger fuse box, you may have loosened up the connectors. Colours for fusebox are blue for dash, brown for floor, and green is main power into the car. There is a fuse in engine bay that may have popped that powers the interior but since you said that fuse box still sounds like its powered that may not be the issue. Double check the connections and test battery it maybe one or the other unless you have the water ingress issue where you sound disconnect the connectors one by one and see if there is any sort of marking.
  15. stef123 is right, if no compression and misfire. You could also try a inspection camera to see if the issues is the piston or not.