ScaniaPBman

Budding Enthusiast
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About ScaniaPBman

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  • First Name
    Mike

Profile Information

  • Gender*
    Male
  • Ford Model
    Focus MK2.5 Auto
  • Ford Year
    2010
  • UK/Ireland Location
    West Midlands
  • Annual Mileage
    10,001 to 15,000

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1,042 profile views
  1. That bolt looks as if it's tight. Soak it before hand with WD40 or equivalent and only use a 6 point socket with a breaker bar. See here for why a six point socket is better. A 12-point socket is fine for most lightweight repairs, but heavy wrenching calls for a six-point socket. A six-point socket is much less likely to slip off a stubborn fastener or round over the corners. Here's why: (1) Six-point sockets have thicker walls, so they're less likely to flex. (2) A six-point socket is designed to contact the head of a fastener well away from the corners so contact is made on the thickest part of the socket and the flattest part of the fastener. This dramatically reduces the likelihood of slippage and rounding over the corners. And (3), the edges of a socket are angled back a few degrees to allow the socket to slide easily over a fastener. The angle is less on a six-point socket than on its 12-point counterpart, again providing more contact area inside the socket.
  2. I have had leaks from the low pressure rubber pipe that runs from the fluid bottle to the pump. It had me foxed for a while since it appeared to come from the pump its self. So my advice is clean everything thoroughly and remember about that rubber pipe (£25 if I remember correctly) before you condemn anything else. ScaniaPBman.
  3. I have just had the rear seats out of my MK2.5 Focus. I guess your MK1.5 is much the same. You don't say which bolts are actually causing a problem. Some have the end of the threaded part exposed under the car and I recon it is one of those that is stuck. What I would do is to be radical. Just drill the offending bolt right out, You can estimate the drill size from one of the other bolts. Then replace this with a bolt and nut. Forget about trying to put a thread back into the body hole. Job done. ScaniaPBman.
  4. As I understand it, the PowerShift dual clutch auto box is specified on Focus models in USA. There is a good general Focus web site based there with lots of info on transmissions problems. That's a bad sign, people only post when they have a problem. This is the site http://www.focusfanatics.com/forum/general-technical-chat/ You have to be a member to carry out a search but you can bypass this requirement with this trick. In Google construct a search in this format powershift site:http://www.focusfanatics.com/forum/general-technical-chat/ It will only search the nominated site and give you results containing the selected word. Replace the word powershift with any other you think would home in on your problem better and search again. I personally don't use Google because of their policy on data storage and tracking. This search trick will work equally well on https://duckduckgo.com/ They don't track you and do just as good a search. Good luck, ScaniaPBman
  5. You are correct, the fuel economy isn't the best however I am prepared to accept this in return for much better reliability and the convenience of driving an auto through traffic every day to and from work. I have no complaint about the refinement, the newer boxes are indeed an improvement. At work I frequently drive a Mercedes Sprinter diesel with a dual clutch auto and find it really smooth. It's good that the boss has to worry about any potential reliability problems and not me, though I must say that this Sprinter seems OK and I haven't heard the boss complain yet. For impressive auto box performance try a coach or truck with a Volvo iShift. ScaniaPBman
  6. I too prefer auto transmission cars. I have run 3 MK2s 1.6 petrols with the 4 speed torque converter auto with no problems at all. 2 of them reached 130,000 miles and the one I sold at this mileage was still going strong. I currently run the other two, one for me and the other for Mrs ScaniaPBman. I had considered a 2 L petrol auto but it has a Ford PowerShift six-speed dual clutch semi automatic gearbox which comes with a bad reputation for reliability so I would not recommend this to you. See the Wikipedia comment here further down under the heading of Controversy and copied here. Ford has faced class action lawsuits in the United States,[7] Australia[8] and Canada[9] over the PowerShift gearbox as being defective and potentially dangerous in the Ford Focus, Ford Fiesta and Ford EcoSport. The lawsuits allege that the PowerShift gearbox "continue to experience the transmission defect, including, but not limited to, bucking, kicking, jerking, harsh engagement, and delayed acceleration and lurching." Best of luck, ScaniaPBman.
  7. The paint sprayers these days seem to do better colour matching than previously. I have had 2 paint jobs done on my car and I cannot see the 'join' in the paint on the panel. I suspect if I looked hard enough in the correct light conditions I might detect something but I am not that fussy really. It all looks fine to me. ScaniaPBman
  8. Mrs ScaniaPBman managed to do worse than that to the front bumper corner. No plastic was cracked but there were deepish scratches about 10cm long. I went to my friendly back street paint sprayer/body man who quoted £70. He did a good job respraying most of the front bumper. This should give you a guide to the cost for your job. ScaniaPBman.
  9. Exactly. I purchases a pack of 10 H7s off eBay and they were not up to par. They failed early and some of them when fitted would point into the hedge on the left rather than straight on. Yes, I did check they were fitted and positioned as they should be. I didn't pay much for them and I got what I paid for, rubbish. I then splashed out on some Lucas ones and they point correctly with the right cut-off pattern. Here's hoping they last a bit longer than the other ones. ScaniaPBman.
  10. Here's my contribution to the Replacement Key debate in this topic I bought my flip key from the same supplier as Simon (simcor).The service was excellent, I sent a close-up picture of the blade as cut on my current key at 13:00 ish and the finished key dropped through the letter box first thing NEXT MORNING, amazing. To top it off the key actually turned in the door and ignition! Programming it to suit the car was not so quick. I am not up to all this Forscan clever stuff. The delay was mainly my fault since I had not done my homework properly. Local car key specialists quoted £60 to match the key to the car. My frequently used one said he would do it for £40. I sent Mrs ScaniaPBman round and he did the biz in 10 mins. Total price comes out at £31+£40= £71 If the frequently used man had done the whole job he would have charged £100 to supply the key and fully programme it. The others started from £125 for the same thing. I didn't even bother to get a price from my neighbourhood Ford dealer, I felt certain they would not match these prices. ScaniaPBman. .
  11. I recon this heat shield is needed but only in extreme conditions that this spec of model might see. This could be a long steep hill climb at close to full throttle in 35 to 40 C ambients, then a stop at the top. You will have a really hot exhaust system right to the tailpipe radiating and convecting considerable heat affecting nearby components. Since you and I are unlikely to do this in the near future I would not rush to refit it. ScaniaPBman.
  12. My Focus is a MK2.5 but I'll bet the bulb holder is much the same. I had similar troubles to you with the rear side/brake light bulb. Sometimes only the side light would work, then both or neither. The power was there on both wires when it should be. The problem was the little earth tag inside the bulb holder. It's supposed to press on the side of the bulb metal base to complete the electrical circuit to earth. On mine the tag had broken off and was making intermittent contact. The fix was easy, I removed a bit of copper from a cable and rammed it placed it carefully in the gap as I inserted the bulb. That was 3 months ago and it's still lighting up well. ScaniaPBman.
  13. Just a bit of background on auto box calibration. The shift points are held on a map/data table and the change of gear is determined by throttle position, engine speed, coolant temperature etc. There is a map/data table for cold temperatures, warming up and fully hot. Probably other maps for conditions such a towing trailers. The cold temperature map will probably let the engine rev a bit higher to achieve warm up quicker. This could be why SlingShot thought the engine was revving too much in the gears on his test drive. On my 1.6 with a torque converter the converter lock-up is suppressed till the engine has warmed up a bit. ScaniaPBman.
  14. I drive automatics out of choice only. My daily drive is 12 miles to work and 12 miles back in heavy traffic always in a 30 limit. The early Ford DSG type gearbox as fitted to 2.0 petrol engined vehicles I believe, were unreliable. My choice is the 1.6 petrol with a torque converter auto. Smooth, and reliable. Fuel consumption 34 mpg local 40 mpg on a run. Not great really but I am happy sacrificing a bit of fuel economy for a trouble free gearbox. ScaniaPBman.
  15. Some years ago a friend and I were off-roading some considerable distance from civilisation. No AA where we were. My 4X4 had a large piece of tyre side wall removed by a rock. No problem we were ready for that sort of thing, but would that alloy wheel come off, not a chance, it seemed to be welded on. We got a tow rope out, wrapped it round the offending wheel, attached it to the tow bar of the other 4X4 and pulled it at right angles to the first car. It took a hefty tug to move that barsteward. Thinking back now we were luck that we didn't pull the complete axle out. And we thought we had prepared for every eventuality, we should have checked the wheels would actually come off. ScaniaPBman.