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Budding Enthusiast
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About ScaniaPBman

  • Rank
    Settling In Well

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  • Gender*
  • Ford Model
    Focus MK2.5 Auto
  • Ford Year
  • UK/Ireland Location
    West Midlands
  • Annual Mileage
    10,001 to 15,000

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723 profile views
  1. Check your road springs. When they fail they sometimes give a loud bang from that area. Do this straight away because some modes of failure can have the spring displaced so far out of position that it can catch and rip open your tyre. Other modes of failure can be found only after detailed inspection. ScaniaPBman
  2. Quite correct. Follow my plan and you will quickly find out if the wheel bearings are at fault. If you go to a garage for them to investigate, my betting is on them going straight in for a bearing change without a decent diagnosis as above. ScaniaPBman.
  3. Jordan, Berfore you get ripped off by the garage try this.... First get yourself a mechanics stethoscope. Jack up the rear of your car with both wheels off the ground and supported by two axle stands. Front wheels to be chocked. Get underneath with the stethoscope and listen to the wheel bearing while a friend spins the wheel. You should hear next to nothing, just a gentle hum from a good bearing. When I investigated MY rear bearing noise the bearings sounded just fine but when driving the noise was really loud inside. I put the wheels from another Focus on then went for a drive. Magic, silence from the rear. Answer to my problem was very noisy budget tyres. Let's know how you get on. ScaniaPBman.
  4. Are you sure your pump is the cause of the leak? When my "pump started to leak" the source of the leak was actually the rubber pipe from the fluid reservoir to the inlet on the pump. Clean everything up and watch closely for where the fluid is coming from. Yes,I know this is easier to say than do, but there is no satisfaction in changing a perfectly good pump. The rubber pipe is £20 odd from the dealer, daylight robbery if you ask me. ScaniaPBman.
  5. Hello SPB.

    Have you had a chance to see that picture of my Focus window seal (on the thread) ? Is it the same as your`s (i.e. no seal/trim) ? If so can you confirm exactly where you put the sealant as I`ve finally bought some (see thread) !



    1. ScaniaPBman



      I have been working in France for a while, back now. No fancy iPhone thingys for me.

      Just seen your picture, it looks as if the rubber edging ( what I have called the rubber seal) to the screen glass is present there but not meeting the body. In any case, actually having the two cars side by side is the definitive answer rather than my judgement from a picture.

      I had to lift the rubber seal back from the body to get the nozzle in underneath so that the sealant could be pumped into the cavity behind. I started at the centre of the top and worked back to the corner on each side.

      We had very heavy prolonged rain here about a month ago. When I went out to my car I was disappointed to see that the water had again come through wetting the gear selector and the drivers seat. It took a week of unpleasant smells and towels on the seat to dry it out. Its the first time this has happened since my liberal use of the sealer round the top of the screen. It was leaking at every rain shower before hand so I did improve things a bit!

      Best of luck,




    2. ScaniaPBman



      I have given the windscreen seal more consideration. Looking at 3 Focus screens there is a significant variation in the fit of the screen to the body at the top. Not just from car to car but along the top as well.

      There is nothing missing on your car, the difference appears to be that for you, the gap is so big that the rubber seal does not reach right across. Perhaps the screen has been replaced slightly away from the recommended position leaving a greater than expected gap at the top.

      What would I do?

      Just wait till everything is dry, then pump the sealant in to fill it full behind the rubber seal. There will be some of the sealer exposed to the atmosphere, but since it is petroleum based it will not be washed away. This sealer is supposed not to set hard but with a bit of luck it should form a skin on the outside. Keep the exposed sealer bead well down so that it does not come in contact with the brush or cloth you use for washing the car.

      I hope you get better results than I have had.





    3. Justin Smith

      Justin Smith

      Hello Mike.

      You know there are DIY jobs which you`re really not looking forward to ? Well fusing that sealant on my windscreen was one of them ! And I was right to be apprehensive..... The first problem was the sealant container wouldn`t fit into my sealant gun, I got round that be squeezing out some of the sealant then cutting down the container ! Next, when I tried to pump in the sealant I found the fitter had used a load of silicone under the sealing strip. I didn`t know whether to try and remove it or try to pump the sealant into the gap between the silicone and the bodywork. I chose the former, but getting the silicone out was a buggar of a job, impossible really. In the end I just pumped the sealant and hoped for the best. Unfortunately there is so much of it it`s actually all over the sealing trim ! It looks reasonable but I`m unconvinced that it won`t start coming out when the car is washed. Not that it gets washed very often !

      Basically it`s unfortunate that the windscreen company (wrongly told me they didn`t think it was the seal on the windscreen. I had, at that time, steeled myself for paying the £300, which is looks like I`m going to have to pay anyway having put up with having unsightly tape across the top of my windscreen for 6 months plus !


      What I did find, when my windscreen leaked whilst on holiday in Wales (I`d removed the tape from half the screen to examine the seal), was that if the car is parked facing uphill it leaks far less ! I`ll put that on the thread when I get round to it.

      Anyway, thanks for all your help.

      TTFN Justin Smith

  6. Now, if I had a proper iPhone this would be the one for me... ScaniaPBman.
  7. Just replace one, that's my policy. I have replaced several broken springs without touching the other side. Never had a problem. I have even fitted a new shock absorber on one side leaving the other side with the original which had 250,000 miles on it. The car performed fine for me. Others may have a stricter view on these things than I have! ScaniaPBman.
  8. Exactly as Ian says, you cannot do the job correctly by the old tippex method. I have the correct tools for the job, but on the last belt job a few days ago (1.6 L 100 BHP) I had a go at marking each pulley up and trying to do the job quicker. IT DOES NOT WORK. The problem is that, as Ian says, the crank pulley is not keyed to the crank. When you are heaving on the crank bolt to get the correct tightness, the pulley moves and you cannot get it to the position it was in before you removed it. If anyone has a way of replacing the crank pulley in precisely the same position please let me know. ScaniaPBman.
  9. Others will have their opinion on timing belts but here is my view... 1) The most common cause of early belt failure is not the belt itself, but failure of the tensioner bearing which then seizes and shreds a still servicable belt. 2) To check how much life is left in a timing belt you need to remove it first. Any visible damage at all condems it. Next bend the belt backwards so that the teeth are on the outside. Look very closely at the root of each tooth where it meets up with the inside of the belt. Any sign of a crack in the rubber of any tooth here is bad news and shows that the belt is at the end of it's useful life. Of course now that you have gone to all this trouble to take the belt off for this examination you might just as well replace it. For all the belt jobs I have done, I have cut a small hole in the plastic cover at the tensioner bearing so that I can probe with my mechanics stethoscope. I can then listen to the bearing and hear if it is noisy and likely to fail. Hope this helps, ScaniaPBman.
  10. Well, I had a selection of child hand prints from sun cream around the rear door of my Focus which has metallic paint. They were there for quite a while till I got round to trying to remove them. Much to my relief a bit of elbow grease and T Cut did the job. Only that girl from NCIS could tell where they were. ScaniaPBman.
  11. A word of warning. Advisories aren't always right. Some years ago I had an advisory for play in the track rod end. It had done 200,000 miles so not unexpected. Went out and bought a new one then got the wheel off. Nothing, no play that I could find. Put the wheel back on again. The car went to the scrap yard 4 years later with the track rod end in the glove box having passed 3 further MOT's without comment. Get confirmation that your bushes are bad before you go any further. If you go to a garage with an advisory they will happily replace a good part and take your money for doing so. Synical? Me? Never! ScaniaPBman.
  12. This isn't going to help you now but will be of interest. I used to work on Range Rovers and one particular model year had a strange and nasty quirk. When you reconnected the battery all the door locks immediately locked (somebody's bright idea to improve car security). Now that's no great hassle if you have the keys in your hand but if you have left them in the ignition, closed the door then done the battery change you were in deep dodo. I now never do any battery work without holding the key AND leaving a window open. You learn these things the hard way. Incidentally if you leave the keys in the ignition on some cars for long periods the battery goes flat. This is because the ECU never shuts down, it stays active ready for instant action drawing enough current to flatten the battery in no time at all. I don't know if it applies to Focuses and I am not about to try. My stored car sits there in the garage with no key in and both front windows open. ScaniaPBman.
  13. I've had a look at the picture on the above link. The bulb and holder look just like the ones used on a commercial vehicle/coach paper tacho head. If you know a driver of one of these vehicles see if he has one knocking about. Check the bulb rating because these vehicles run at 24V. I am not sure of the voltage in the tachos, it may be 12V or 24V. ScaniaPBman (A ScaniaPB is a type of coach!)
  14. The random parts replacement exercise has started. I went out purchased a new crank position sensor and replaced the old one. I will just have to wait and see if the problem has gone away. If I make 2 months without a hard start then the source of the problem has been located. As always I an open to any other suggestions. Next on my list wil be the camshaft position sensors. ScaniaPBman.
  15. I was in a similar position a while back due to irrepairable damage. The one I plumped for was off ebay just like this one now currently advertised. It's not a Ford part, so not an exact match. Some parts inside the assembly are a slightly different shape and/or colour, but you need to be really fussy to spot the difference once it is installed. It's considerably more than one from a scrap yard, but less than from over a Ford counter. You pays your money and takes your choice. ScaniaPBman.