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ScaniaPBman

Budding Enthusiast
  • Content count

    20
  • Joined

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About ScaniaPBman

  • Rank
    Member

Contact Methods

  • First Name Mike

Profile Information

  • Gender* Male
  • Ford Model Focus MK2.5 Auto
  • Ford Year 2010
  • UK/Ireland Location West Midlands
  • Annual Mileage 10,001 to 15,000
  1. Strange Knocking Noise (Rear Wheel)

    Err, have you checked all the wheel nuts are tight? Jack it up and check the wheel bearings, one might have failed. It happened to me once and it was that bad that the rear wheel was sitting at a crazy angle ready to come off. ScaniaPBman
  2. I was aware that a windscreen was part of the strength of the vehicle body, but it didn't worry my for a second. Just went ahead with my bodge skillfull repair. ScaniaPBman.
  3. Firstly, I also tried sealing the top of the screen with high quality duct tape but it made no difference. The water kept coming in. I suspect that it was entering from the top corner and running across. Try taping right down the side as well. Secondly prising the gasket back was indeed tricky. I fashioned a piece of sturdy plastic to a point and eased it in under the gasket at the top corner then slid it across to where I was working. You need something softer than the paint to stop scratching. Once you get the plastic piece to where you want, the nozzle of the sealant cartridge can be pushed in to the cavity through the small gap either side the plastic. It took me several attempts to sort this out, just have a go yourself. I am sure you will come up with something better. How about a wooden clothes peg? Remember, the sealant recommended never actually sets hard. ScaniaPBman.
  4. Justin, you are in the same position that I was in a year or so ago. The Focus I purchased had previously had a new front screen fitted. It was fine in the dry but after heavy rain and parked at a particular angle it would leak just as you describe. It wasn't the aerial. Definitely coming from the top centre of the screen. The advice from other posts here was to remove the headlining and apply sealer around the earthing strap which may not have been properly finished when the screen was replaced. I balked at this, too difficult for me! I decided to seal up the screen from the outside by filling the gap behind the rubber gasket between the top of the glass and the forward edge of the roof. But which sealer to use? Advice here and independently was that regular silicone sealer is NOT compatible with the stuff now used on vehicle windscreens.This is the one I used http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Windscreen-Sealant-Window-Sunroof-Cluster-Leak-light-Repair-Sealer-black-/221930842939?hash=item33ac1beb3b I put up with the leak till the weather warmed up because I wanted to have the sealant into a dry area. A few strategically placed old towels kept the gearstick and seat area dry till then. After a spell of a couple of weeks hot sunshine and no rain, I started. Pulling back the gasket is not that easy, but with a bit of fiddling it gets better with practise. Beginning at one side of the screen and with the cartridge in the applicator http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SEALANT-TUBE-CARTRIDGE-GUN-SILICONE-MASTIC-CAULK-APPLICATOR-SKELETON-TRIGGER-/371382316187?hash=item56781c6c9b:g:jLsAAOSwHnFVo3UL I pumped the stuff in until it was coming back up again. It needed more than half of the cartridge to fill across the top. There has never been a drop of water through since. Let us know how you get on. ScaniaPBman.
  5. So Help Needed Rear Brakes

    Just as iantt says. This is the way I set mine. All threads etc. are clean and free but there is no sign of self adjustment with the drum on. When checking the adjustment put the drum on, pull the handbrake cable to operate/centre the shoes then make sure the drum spins without binding. In case you think I might not have everything assembled correctly ( didn't trust myself to remember!), I took the drums off another Focus to check all was correct. There is a setting gap inside the drum for the handbrake lever. I don't have it to hand right now but never needed it myself anyway. ScaniaPBman.
  6. High Pitched Whine Noise

    Once you have checked out the more obvious things as suggested above, have a look at how I diagnosed a gearbox bearing failure on a previous focus. The post below gives the method. It is a bit of a challenge to set up, but it will help to guide you with confidence to the source of the whine problem. For me it was well worth the effort. http://www.fordownersclub.com/forums/topic/67160-whine/?p=454379 Let us know how you get on. ScaniaPBman.
  7. Help Urgent Mk2 Clutch?!?!?!?

    Before I set off on my hols, I carefully checked for clutch slip amongst other things. All OK. 400 mile on, what do you know, the clutch started to slip just a little at first but when provoked full slip. I found a local non franchised garage who replaced driven plate, cover and slave cylinder for £300. He was recommended by a friend and did a superb job. The parts were LUK sourced from Euro Car Parts. I got a price from the nearby Ford dealer at £500 plus parts ( I thanked him but did not get back!) and £180 from a "clutch specialist" but since the parts on their own would cost in the region of £130 I gave him a miss as well. The annoying thing was that if I was at home I would have done the job myself. ScaniaPBman. PS. This is the wife's Focus, a 1.6 Ti-VCT manual transmission.
  8. Focus Osf Droning Noise From 40mph

    Hi Russ, I had a similar problem on my car, a 1.6 petrol auto. Have a read at my contribution in a different thread on this subject. Post #6. http://www.fordownersclub.com/forums/topic/67160-whine/?p=454379 It did take a while to set up but the results were rewarding and convinced me straight away as to where the problem lay. The trouble in doing the investigation was well worth it in the end. ScaniaPBman.
  9. Timing Belt Change Mk2.5

    As for the 2 stretch belts, I have had them off and on several times, the advice to cut them off seems a little over the top to me. The long belt just drops off when you slacken off the metal pulley held on by 4 bolts (water pump pulley?). The air con compressor stretch belt is not so easy, but can be eased off with a sturdy screw driver as you slowly rotate the crank. If the belt looks OK, that is no signs of cracking on the outside or on the ribs inside, then it goes back on. HTH. ScaniaPBman.
  10. Timing Belt Change Mk2.5

    Exactly the method I have used twice. I have just measured my breaker bar at 24 inches length with 1/2 in. square drive. A 6 flank impact strength short socket was required which I had to buy specially as there was not one in my toolbox. It needed all my strength to move the crankshaft bolt. On the first attempt I lifted the engine off the wooden block, that bolt is really tight. You might want to get a longer breaker bar! Let us know how you get on. ScaniaPBman.
  11. Locking Wheel Nut Removal?

    Looks like you are not desperate just yet. I suggest that you have a read here and see post #5 for choices. I followed the third line and contacted Autostyle Wheels in Liverpool. He was very helpful and did the biz with a minimum of fuss and bother. You do need a good, detailed, clear, close-up digital picture of the wiggly pattern on the face of the locking nut which he will send off to McGard. They will send you promptly the new key direct from Germany. It's non destructive and economical to do. Of course if your car is now sitting with a flat or bald tyre right now, go for some instant action. If I remember correctly the above method took about a week from first contact to the key dropping through the letterbox. Let's know how you get on. ScaniaPBman
  12. Fuel Economy Focus Zetec Automatic (2008)

    Ah, the air conditioning, turn it off straight away. It will make more difference than you might expect. I don't have that opportunity, mine is bust. I have had several Focus vehicles and none had a working air con! I would have a go at fixing it but I don't know where to start, it requires specialised equipment to carry out the testing and I am reluctant to dive in replacing a condenser or compressor with drier only on spec. ScaniaPBman.
  13. Fuel Economy Focus Zetec Automatic (2008)

    David, I also run a petrol auto 1.6 just like yours. I have it for the ease and convenience of a 12 mile commute to work each day usually in heavy traffic and I accept that the fuel consumption will not be great. Occasionally I do a 300 mile motorway round trip to visit the relatives. Generally the commute gives me around 32MPG and the motorway run around 41MPG. The consumption falls off a bit during the winter due to the colder weather; headlights on, heater on, etc. A lot depends on your driving style, expect it to fall off with heavy use of the accelerator and brakes. ScaniaPBman.
  14. Wheel Locking Nut Stolen. How Do I Get Replacement

    Strangely I have just posted my answer to removing locking nuts in a relaxed non destructive way in another thread. http://www.fordownersclub.com/forums/topic/67231-alloy-wheel-key/ I needed a replacement McGard key a while back. I had no key details at all. There were 3 places I tried. The local Ford dealer. They had a set of master keys. If one matched they could order one for me and from memory it was not a rip off price. Not so easy if none matched since the dealer set did not cover every key differ. McGard themselves in Germany. Here. They needed a good photo of your wheel nut, driving licence, vehicle registration document, and about £25. Alloy wheel shop in Liverpool. Here. This is where I had mine from. Chris is a McGard agent though I cannot see this from his site. All transactions were by email and phone. I sent him a photo of the nut and details of the car. The new key came through the post directly quite quickly from McGard. Although he is a few quid more than going to the supplier I felt happier dealing with someone closer to home and he also supplied me with 4 regular wheel nuts to replace the keyed nuts once I got then off. The photo has to be in focus and fill the frame. Let us know how you got on. ScaniaPBman.
  15. Alloy Wheel Key

    I needed a replacement McGard key a while back. I had no key details at all. There were 3 places I tried. The local Ford dealer. They had a set of master keys. If one matched they could order one for me and from memory it was not a rip off price. Not so easy if none matched since the dealer set did not cover every key differ. McGard themselves in Germany. Here. They needed a good photo of your wheel nut, driving licence, vehicle registration document, and about £25. Alloy wheel shop in Liverpool. Here. This is where I had mine from. Chris is a McGard agent though I cannot see this from his site. All transactions were by email and phone. I sent him a photo of the nut and details of the car. The new key came through the post directly quite quickly from McGard. Although he is a few quid more than going to the supplier I felt happier dealing with someone closer to home and he also supplied me with 4 regular wheel nuts to replace the keyed nuts once I got then off. The photo has to be in focus and fill the frame. Let us know how you got on. ScaniaPBman.