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ScaniaPBman

Budding Enthusiast
  • Content count

    60
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About ScaniaPBman

Contact Methods

  • First Name
    Mike

Profile Information

  • Gender*
    Male
  • Ford Model
    Focus MK2.5 Auto
  • Ford Year
    2010
  • UK/Ireland Location
    West Midlands
  • Annual Mileage
    10,001 to 15,000

Recent Profile Visitors

987 profile views
  1. I recon this heat shield is needed but only in extreme conditions that this spec of model might see. This could be a long steep hill climb at close to full throttle in 35 to 40 C ambients, then a stop at the top. You will have a really hot exhaust system right to the tailpipe radiating and convecting considerable heat affecting nearby components. Since you and I are unlikely to do this in the near future I would not rush to refit it. ScaniaPBman.
  2. My Focus is a MK2.5 but I'll bet the bulb holder is much the same. I had similar troubles to you with the rear side/brake light bulb. Sometimes only the side light would work, then both or neither. The power was there on both wires when it should be. The problem was the little earth tag inside the bulb holder. It's supposed to press on the side of the bulb metal base to complete the electrical circuit to earth. On mine the tag had broken off and was making intermittent contact. The fix was easy, I removed a bit of copper from a cable and rammed it placed it carefully in the gap as I inserted the bulb. That was 3 months ago and it's still lighting up well. ScaniaPBman.
  3. Just a bit of background on auto box calibration. The shift points are held on a map/data table and the change of gear is determined by throttle position, engine speed, coolant temperature etc. There is a map/data table for cold temperatures, warming up and fully hot. Probably other maps for conditions such a towing trailers. The cold temperature map will probably let the engine rev a bit higher to achieve warm up quicker. This could be why SlingShot thought the engine was revving too much in the gears on his test drive. On my 1.6 with a torque converter the converter lock-up is suppressed till the engine has warmed up a bit. ScaniaPBman.
  4. I drive automatics out of choice only. My daily drive is 12 miles to work and 12 miles back in heavy traffic always in a 30 limit. The early Ford DSG type gearbox as fitted to 2.0 petrol engined vehicles I believe, were unreliable. My choice is the 1.6 petrol with a torque converter auto. Smooth, and reliable. Fuel consumption 34 mpg local 40 mpg on a run. Not great really but I am happy sacrificing a bit of fuel economy for a trouble free gearbox. ScaniaPBman.
  5. Some years ago a friend and I were off-roading some considerable distance from civilisation. No AA where we were. My 4X4 had a large piece of tyre side wall removed by a rock. No problem we were ready for that sort of thing, but would that alloy wheel come off, not a chance, it seemed to be welded on. We got a tow rope out, wrapped it round the offending wheel, attached it to the tow bar of the other 4X4 and pulled it at right angles to the first car. It took a hefty tug to move that barsteward. Thinking back now we were luck that we didn't pull the complete axle out. And we thought we had prepared for every eventuality, we should have checked the wheels would actually come off. ScaniaPBman.
  6. Yes, sticking wheels do happen. When I buy a car the first job is to remove all the wheels and lubricate the wheel locating spigot. My last purchase had both rear alloy wheels well stuck on. Nothing I could do when the car was on axle stands would move them at all. I put everything back together and then slackened the wheel nuts on one wheel so that they were loose by 1 turn. A short drive round a big car park loosened the alloy wheel easily. I did the same on the other wheel and they both came off when up on the stands. A bit of a rub to the spigot with emery paper and a light smear of high melting point grease fixed the problem. Incidentally,you will probably find that the conditions which cause difficulty removing rear wheels will also cause problems later when removing the brake drums. ScaniaPBman. Warning. Driving on the public roads with loose wheel nuts is almost certainly illegal.
  7. Have a read here in a very recent topic covering just this exact subject. ScaniaPBman.
  8. I bought my flip key from the same supplier as Simon (simcor).The service was excellent, I sent a close-up picture of the blade as cut on my current key at 13:00 ish and the finished key dropped through the letter box first thing NEXT MORNING, amazing. To top it off the key actually turned in the door and ignition! Programming it to suit the car was not so quick. I am not up to all this Forscan clever stuff. The delay was mainly my fault since I had not done my homework properly. Local car key specialists quoted £60 to match the key to the car. My frequently used one said he would do it for £40. I sent Mrs ScaniaPBman round and he did the biz in 10 mins. Total price comes out at £31+£40= £71 If the frequently used man had done the whole job he would have charged £100 to supply the key and fully programme it. The others started from £125 for the same thing. I didn't even bother to get a price from my neighbourhood Ford dealer, I felt certain they would not match these prices. ScaniaPBman.
  9. That's my experience as well. I had the pump out and all the bottom pipes as well only to find that the leak was from the rubber pipe connecting the power steering fluid reservoir to the inlet on the pump body. Well at least I had only myself to blame. ScaniaPBman.
  10. Here's my answer to another forum member on this type of problem. From what you say it does sound like a wheel bearing, but which one? Here’s how I tracked down my suspicious whine. First I just drove it around for a while, there was a faint whine from the front left so I went straight in and changing the left wheel bearing. Wrong. It made no difference. Stung by this failure I stepped back a little and did the diagnostics properly. To start with I purchased a mechanics stethoscope just like this one for a fiver. Then I put the front of the car up on two axle stands and chocked the rear wheels with the handbrake tight as well. Then I started the engine put it in gear and set it running at 30MPH. The wheels are off the ground but turning at a reasonable speed so the bearings are running round. Next from underneath I put the stethoscope on the hub carrier as close to the bearing as possible and listened. Then the other side, and the drive shaft support bearing (my prime candidate for the cause of the whine). All were humming away smoothly. If there was to be a bearing failure it would have made distinctive noise clearly noticeable with the stethoscope. I would suggest you do the same type of test on the rear wheels getting a friend to spin the wheel for you while you are underneath listening carefully. WARNING. Going under a car which is up on stands with the wheels turning for an investigation like this is a hazardous thing to do with all those moving unguarded parts. I did it very slowly and carefully with someone in the driving seat at the controls. All I can say is if you are not confident don’t do it. I told you it was dangerous! Well where was my whine coming from? It didn’t take me long to pin it down from under the front. It was the left side final drive gear support bearing way inside the gearbox. Bad news. If you are getting your whine on corners, this technique should help you identify the cause with confidence. A failing bearing will be picked up like this with no cornering load or vehicle road load. ScaniaPBman. I have had a lot of satisfaction from my stethoscope. Once you get used to a 'good' bearing noise, then a failing bearing will stand out like a sore thumb. Just keep probing around underneath and you will find the source of your noise.
  11. I ran an old Petrol/LPG system of this vintage many years ago. It worked well on petrol but just would not start up on LPG. I struggled for some time with this and eventually sorted the problem. To ignite a flammable mixture of LPG in the cylinder requires a stronger spark (more electrical energy) from the spark plug than that required to ignite a flammable mixture of petrol. The car I had, which I actually converted to LPG myself, was right on the edge for spark energy. I pulled the plugs, reduced the gap, put them back in and BINGO, never a problem again. There is no guarantee that this is the problem with your potential purchase of course, but it is very simple to test for. Let us know how you get on. ScaniaPBman.
  12. The bulb code you are looking for is BAW15D Twin filament, red, stop & brake, offset pins and at different heights. As here... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10-x-FORD-RED-BRAKE-STOP-TAIL-LIGHT-CAR-BULBS-567-12V-21-5W-BAW15D-OFF-SET-PINS-/111294999092?hash=item19e9b2ea34 I must advise you that the bulbs I purchased in this price range faded rapidly from the correct red to faintly red. When the bulb was removed after only a few months use in the winter, the patch of paint on the glass bulb just above the filament had deteriorated to light pink with the heat rising from the sidelight element. I feel sure a bulb purchased from the Ford Parts counter would last well and be of much higher quality. At what price? My solution was to follow the advice from other forum members on this subject and purchased these LED ones which work well, fit correctly and have not generated any fault codes which can happen on other cars when a tungsten filament bulb is replaced by a LED one. At £17 odd the pair they are not cheep and probably well in excess of the Ford price for a pair of tungsten bulbs. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/361448607776?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT The choice is yours. ScaniaPBman.
  13. Or even a seat belt buckle cut off from a Focus seat belt in your friendly neighbour scrap yard. ScaniaPBman
  14. Justin, Here's my reply to another forum member with the same problem. Berfore you get ripped off by the garage try this.... First get yourself a mechanics stethoscope. Jack up the rear of your car with both wheels off the ground and supported by two axle stands. Front wheels to be chocked. Get underneath with the stethoscope and listen to the wheel bearing while a friend spins the wheel. You should hear next to nothing, just a gentle hum from a good bearing. When I investigated MY rear bearing noise the bearings sounded just fine but when driving the noise was really loud inside. I put the wheels from another Focus on then went for a drive. Magic, silence from the rear. Answer to my problem was very noisy budget tyres. Let's know how you get on. ScaniaPBman.
  15. In my experience the disc thickness is not directly checked. On my old mk2 Mondeo after passing a MOT with an advisory for a front tyre, I removed the wheel to take it to the local tyre shop. Blow me the disc, which was vented, had a barely visible wrinkled outer surface. It had worn down that much that the surface had sunk back slightly along the line of the vents. They were the original discs which had done 200,000 miles by then. Clearly both sides were well below the minimum recommended thickness but they were working satisfactorily when tested and on the road. Before you ask I changed them straight away. ScaniaPBman.