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ScaniaPBman

Budding Enthusiast
  • Content count

    53
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About ScaniaPBman

  • Rank
    Settling In Well
  • Birthday

Contact Methods

  • First Name
    Mike

Profile Information

  • Gender*
    Male
  • Ford Model
    Focus MK2.5 Auto
  • Ford Year
    2010
  • UK/Ireland Location
    West Midlands
  • Annual Mileage
    10,001 to 15,000

Recent Profile Visitors

907 profile views
  1. I bought my flip key from the same supplier as Simon (simcor).The service was excellent, I sent a close-up picture of the blade as cut on my current key at 13:00 ish and the finished key dropped through the letter box first thing NEXT MORNING, amazing. To top it off the key actually turned in the door and ignition! Programming it to suit the car was not so quick. I am not up to all this Forscan clever stuff. The delay was mainly my fault since I had not done my homework properly. Local car key specialists quoted £60 to match the key to the car. My frequently used one said he would do it for £40. I sent Mrs ScaniaPBman round and he did the biz in 10 mins. Total price comes out at £31+£40= £71 If the frequently used man had done the whole job he would have charged £100 to supply the key and fully programme it. The others started from £125 for the same thing. I didn't even bother to get a price from my neighbourhood Ford dealer, I felt certain they would not match these prices. ScaniaPBman.
  2. That's my experience as well. I had the pump out and all the bottom pipes as well only to find that the leak was from the rubber pipe connecting the power steering fluid reservoir to the inlet on the pump body. Well at least I had only myself to blame. ScaniaPBman.
  3. Here's my answer to another forum member on this type of problem. From what you say it does sound like a wheel bearing, but which one? Here’s how I tracked down my suspicious whine. First I just drove it around for a while, there was a faint whine from the front left so I went straight in and changing the left wheel bearing. Wrong. It made no difference. Stung by this failure I stepped back a little and did the diagnostics properly. To start with I purchased a mechanics stethoscope just like this one for a fiver. Then I put the front of the car up on two axle stands and chocked the rear wheels with the handbrake tight as well. Then I started the engine put it in gear and set it running at 30MPH. The wheels are off the ground but turning at a reasonable speed so the bearings are running round. Next from underneath I put the stethoscope on the hub carrier as close to the bearing as possible and listened. Then the other side, and the drive shaft support bearing (my prime candidate for the cause of the whine). All were humming away smoothly. If there was to be a bearing failure it would have made distinctive noise clearly noticeable with the stethoscope. I would suggest you do the same type of test on the rear wheels getting a friend to spin the wheel for you while you are underneath listening carefully. WARNING. Going under a car which is up on stands with the wheels turning for an investigation like this is a hazardous thing to do with all those moving unguarded parts. I did it very slowly and carefully with someone in the driving seat at the controls. All I can say is if you are not confident don’t do it. I told you it was dangerous! Well where was my whine coming from? It didn’t take me long to pin it down from under the front. It was the left side final drive gear support bearing way inside the gearbox. Bad news. If you are getting your whine on corners, this technique should help you identify the cause with confidence. A failing bearing will be picked up like this with no cornering load or vehicle road load. ScaniaPBman. I have had a lot of satisfaction from my stethoscope. Once you get used to a 'good' bearing noise, then a failing bearing will stand out like a sore thumb. Just keep probing around underneath and you will find the source of your noise.
  4. I ran an old Petrol/LPG system of this vintage many years ago. It worked well on petrol but just would not start up on LPG. I struggled for some time with this and eventually sorted the problem. To ignite a flammable mixture of LPG in the cylinder requires a stronger spark (more electrical energy) from the spark plug than that required to ignite a flammable mixture of petrol. The car I had, which I actually converted to LPG myself, was right on the edge for spark energy. I pulled the plugs, reduced the gap, put them back in and BINGO, never a problem again. There is no guarantee that this is the problem with your potential purchase of course, but it is very simple to test for. Let us know how you get on. ScaniaPBman.
  5. The bulb code you are looking for is BAW15D Twin filament, red, stop & brake, offset pins and at different heights. As here... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10-x-FORD-RED-BRAKE-STOP-TAIL-LIGHT-CAR-BULBS-567-12V-21-5W-BAW15D-OFF-SET-PINS-/111294999092?hash=item19e9b2ea34 I must advise you that the bulbs I purchased in this price range faded rapidly from the correct red to faintly red. When the bulb was removed after only a few months use in the winter, the patch of paint on the glass bulb just above the filament had deteriorated to light pink with the heat rising from the sidelight element. I feel sure a bulb purchased from the Ford Parts counter would last well and be of much higher quality. At what price? My solution was to follow the advice from other forum members on this subject and purchased these LED ones which work well, fit correctly and have not generated any fault codes which can happen on other cars when a tungsten filament bulb is replaced by a LED one. At £17 odd the pair they are not cheep and probably well in excess of the Ford price for a pair of tungsten bulbs. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/361448607776?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT The choice is yours. ScaniaPBman.
  6. Or even a seat belt buckle cut off from a Focus seat belt in your friendly neighbour scrap yard. ScaniaPBman
  7. Justin, Here's my reply to another forum member with the same problem. Berfore you get ripped off by the garage try this.... First get yourself a mechanics stethoscope. Jack up the rear of your car with both wheels off the ground and supported by two axle stands. Front wheels to be chocked. Get underneath with the stethoscope and listen to the wheel bearing while a friend spins the wheel. You should hear next to nothing, just a gentle hum from a good bearing. When I investigated MY rear bearing noise the bearings sounded just fine but when driving the noise was really loud inside. I put the wheels from another Focus on then went for a drive. Magic, silence from the rear. Answer to my problem was very noisy budget tyres. Let's know how you get on. ScaniaPBman.
  8. In my experience the disc thickness is not directly checked. On my old mk2 Mondeo after passing a MOT with an advisory for a front tyre, I removed the wheel to take it to the local tyre shop. Blow me the disc, which was vented, had a barely visible wrinkled outer surface. It had worn down that much that the surface had sunk back slightly along the line of the vents. They were the original discs which had done 200,000 miles by then. Clearly both sides were well below the minimum recommended thickness but they were working satisfactorily when tested and on the road. Before you ask I changed them straight away. ScaniaPBman.
  9. +1. That did the releasing job for me as well on my 05 Focus on several occasions till I sold it a while back.
  10. I did this job on my Focus a year ago. I have looked out the receipt to check. I purchased from Car Spares Distribution Ltd. Rear wheel bearing £ 50 each. Set of brake shoes for both sides £30. One rear brake slave cylinder assy. £25. All parts fitted OK and are still working well after 22,000 miles. ScaniaPBman. PS. I have no connection with this company except being a satisfied customer.
  11. Ok, got to say I am relieved about that. I didn't fancy going back in there though it might not be so much of a job second time round so close to doing it only a short time ago. Thanks for your advice Ian. ScaniaPBman
  12. Ah, that's the answer then, thanks. Should I refit it, or leave it? Strange it has never been dislodged on the other filter changes I have done. ScaniaPBman.
  13. I have just struggled a new cabin filter into my MK 2.5 Focus. When it came out it was clear that it had not been changed from when the car was new 6 years ago. It was definitely a fiddly job and as I refitted the filter cover plate on the side of the heater box, this part fell down. Looks to me to be not too important, perhaps a cable support or similar but has anyone seen this before and can confirm from experience what it is? ScaniaPBman. PS Inserting pictures into a topic is new to me, so if the images are not right, constructive and simple advice would be appreciated.
  14. Ken, If your name and address are correct on your V5C Registration Certificate then you are in the clear. If they are not, then you not clear as the notification will go to the V5C current address. ScaniaPBman
  15. I have fitted three after market back up sensor kits to my my Focus hatchbacks as they passed through my hands. 1 Mk2 and 2 Mk2.5's. The first one was 3 years ago and still working well. This is the seller I purchased from and he still sells them here http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Reverse-rear-parking-sensors-KIT-4-with-Buzzer-audio-alarm-MATT-BLACK-/270823138903?hash=item3f0e512657:g:O1AAAOSw0HVWA6N8 Lots of other colours are available. As for the location on the bumper, if you carefully look at the inside surface of the bumper you will see lightly marked location rings about 25mm in diameter showing where the hole should be drilled to fit the sensor. You might have to wipe off 5 years of accumulated dirt but they will be there OK. So long as you drill somewhere close to that position you will be fine. ScaniaPBman.