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About ScaniaPBman

  • Rank
    Settling In Well

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  • Gender*
  • Ford Model
    Focus MK2.5 Auto
  • Ford Year
  • UK/Ireland Location
    West Midlands
  • Annual Mileage
    10,001 to 15,000

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1,279 profile views
  1. Or even prevent the MOT man/woman seeing an engine oil leak that does not spill over the edge of the tray. ScaniaPBman
  2. Exactly what I would do. My front shock absorber was much worse than a light misting but was giving no problems after 130,000 miles. Without attention it would have failed for an oil leak. I jacked the front up, dried everthing off with a white spirit soaked rag and bingo, all OK on the MOT. A replacement shock absorber is on my list of things to do in my own time. ScaniaPBman.
  3. I can recommend this seller on Ebay. He did a good focus Mk2.5 flip key for me.
  4. I struggled quite a bit when I removed the pump on my 1.6 petrol. The difficulty for me was removal of the two pipes to the rack from the pump body. The answer for me was to remove the complete assembly of pipes and pump together and refit as an assembly. Your method may vary. ScaniaPBman.
  5. The correct answer is your best tyres should be on the REAR axle. THe reasoning behind this is fairly straight forward. In extreme driving conditions such as snow,ice or just standing water on the road surface where grip is limited or hydroplaning occurs, it is much safer and easier to control the car when the grip is lost on the front axle rather than the rear. There are several youtube videos attesting to this. Here's a sample... ScaniaPBman.
  6. Yup, I have had this ball joint off several times without any taper breaker tool. Once you have the technique it just falls off. First loosen the ball joint nut a few turns, then put a sturdy lever through the lower arm so that you can put a seperating force on the offending taper. A force equivalent to Mrs ScaniaPBman's weight on the end of the lever does the job nicely. Wallop the collar that the ball joint taper is held in, and bingo it releases. ScaniaPBman.
  7. Same for me. Three years ago I bought a MK2 Titanium 1.6 petrol with 80,000 miles on the clock. 2 weeks later the right front coil spring went bang. I replaced only that one spring. The car has gone now to 120,000 miles with no more spring problems. Only do the one is my advice. ScaniaPBman.
  8. Well it beats me. I read frequently that an owner takes his car to a garage saying 'fix this problem'. The garage does something and does NOT fix the problem. The owner then has to pay up for the privilege. Something is wrong somewhere, surely. ScaniaPBman.
  9. If I have a flashing P in the future on my Focus I will remember this advice. Thanks, ScaniaPBman.
  10. As others have done, lets consider that there are two seperate problems. Considering the on/off brakelight I had exactly the same problem.The cause was a faulty contact inside the bulb holder, difficult to track down if you are not familiar with that type of failure. I was round all relevant earth points, fuses and belling the wires before I found the cause. This was reported in this topic And here is the relevant advice I had similar troubles to you with the rear side/brake light bulb. Sometimes only the side light would work, then both or neither. The power was there on both wires when it should be. The problem was the little earth tag inside the bulb holder. It's supposed to press on the side of the bulb metal base to complete the electrical circuit to earth. On mine the tag had broken off and was making intermittent contact. The fix was easy, I removed a bit of copper from a cable and rammed it placed it carefully in the gap as I inserted the bulb. That was 3 months ago and it's still lighting up well. ScaniaPBman. PS I seem to have screwed up the quote formatting above, but the info is there!
  11. I had exactly the same problem. my key stopped working. I self-diagnosed that the little microswitches under the buttons had failed. I sent it off to this man who advertises his services on ebay. It came back promptly, but could I get it to re-register with the car, no matter how I tried the ignition on/off procedure it would not work. In desperation I visited my friendly local lock man. He tested the key with some sort of a signal receiver and declared that the key was functioning correctly. He walked out to the car, did the on/off shuffle and the key started the car straight away. I felt a right fool. I watched him do it exactly as I had done it. There is clearly a knack to this method, and I have not got it. ScaniaPBman.
  12. That bolt looks as if it's tight. Soak it before hand with WD40 or equivalent and only use a 6 point socket with a breaker bar. See here for why a six point socket is better. A 12-point socket is fine for most lightweight repairs, but heavy wrenching calls for a six-point socket. A six-point socket is much less likely to slip off a stubborn fastener or round over the corners. Here's why: (1) Six-point sockets have thicker walls, so they're less likely to flex. (2) A six-point socket is designed to contact the head of a fastener well away from the corners so contact is made on the thickest part of the socket and the flattest part of the fastener. This dramatically reduces the likelihood of slippage and rounding over the corners. And (3), the edges of a socket are angled back a few degrees to allow the socket to slide easily over a fastener. The angle is less on a six-point socket than on its 12-point counterpart, again providing more contact area inside the socket.
  13. I have had leaks from the low pressure rubber pipe that runs from the fluid bottle to the pump. It had me foxed for a while since it appeared to come from the pump its self. So my advice is clean everything thoroughly and remember about that rubber pipe (£25 if I remember correctly) before you condemn anything else. ScaniaPBman.
  14. I have just had the rear seats out of my MK2.5 Focus. I guess your MK1.5 is much the same. You don't say which bolts are actually causing a problem. Some have the end of the threaded part exposed under the car and I recon it is one of those that is stuck. What I would do is to be radical. Just drill the offending bolt right out, You can estimate the drill size from one of the other bolts. Then replace this with a bolt and nut. Forget about trying to put a thread back into the body hole. Job done. ScaniaPBman.
  15. As I understand it, the PowerShift dual clutch auto box is specified on Focus models in USA. There is a good general Focus web site based there with lots of info on transmissions problems. That's a bad sign, people only post when they have a problem. This is the site You have to be a member to carry out a search but you can bypass this requirement with this trick. In Google construct a search in this format powershift site: It will only search the nominated site and give you results containing the selected word. Replace the word powershift with any other you think would home in on your problem better and search again. I personally don't use Google because of their policy on data storage and tracking. This search trick will work equally well on They don't track you and do just as good a search. Good luck, ScaniaPBman