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ScaniaPBman

Budding Enthusiast
  • Content count

    28
  • Joined

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About ScaniaPBman

  • Rank
    Member

Contact Methods

  • First Name Mike

Profile Information

  • Gender* Male
  • Ford Model Focus MK2.5 Auto
  • Ford Year 2010
  • UK/Ireland Location West Midlands
  • Annual Mileage 10,001 to 15,000
  1. Urgent help required, locked out

    This isn't going to help you now but will be of interest. I used to work on Range Rovers and one particular model year had a strange and nasty quirk. When you reconnected the battery all the door locks immediately locked (somebody's bright idea to improve car security). Now that's no great hassle if you have the keys in your hand but if you have left them in the ignition, closed the door then done the battery change you were in deep dodo. I now never do any battery work without holding the key AND leaving a window open. You learn these things the hard way. Incidentally if you leave the keys in the ignition on some cars for long periods the battery goes flat. This is because the ECU never shuts down, it stays active ready for instant action drawing enough current to flatten the battery in no time at all. I don't know if it applies to Focuses and I am not about to try. My stored car sits there in the garage with no key in and both front windows open. ScaniaPBman.
  2. Warning Light bulbs

    I've had a look at the picture on the above link. The bulb and holder look just like the ones used on a commercial vehicle/coach paper tacho head. If you know a driver of one of these vehicles see if he has one knocking about. Check the bulb rating because these vehicles run at 24V. I am not sure of the voltage in the tachos, it may be 12V or 24V. ScaniaPBman (A ScaniaPB is a type of coach!)
  3. Occasional long crank time from cold start.

    The random parts replacement exercise has started. I went out purchased a new crank position sensor and replaced the old one. I will just have to wait and see if the problem has gone away. If I make 2 months without a hard start then the source of the problem has been located. As always I an open to any other suggestions. Next on my list wil be the camshaft position sensors. ScaniaPBman.
  4. Focus Headlight problem.

    I was in a similar position a while back due to irrepairable damage. The one I plumped for was off ebay just like this one now currently advertised. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Headlamp-Headlight-Left-N-S-Passenger-Side-Black-Bezel-Ford-Focus-MK2-2004-On-/331701274478?hash=item4d3aefc76e It's not a Ford part, so not an exact match. Some parts inside the assembly are a slightly different shape and/or colour, but you need to be really fussy to spot the difference once it is installed. It's considerably more than one from a scrap yard, but less than from over a Ford counter. You pays your money and takes your choice. ScaniaPBman.
  5. Occasional long crank time from cold start.

    Well, Art, I will try to make some connection between the shut down conditions and when it does a hard start the next day. You might just hope that the Ford calibration engineers would have this sorted out by now since there is a fair time between the release of the mk1 software and the mk2.5 software. But there again...........! All constructive suggestions welcomed. ScaniaPBman.
  6. Occasional long crank time from cold start.

    I've just been out and inspected the crank position sensor as you advised.The cable looked fine and intact. With the connector removed the terminals are clean showing no corrosion. I removed the sensor itself, a bit fiddley to get the retaining screw out but never mind. There was no obvious damage or visible deterioration. I am open to further advice. ScaniaPBman.
  7. The car. Focus Mk2.5 1.6 petrol auto 10 plate 103,000 miles fully serviced. Bog standard, no mods at all. No check engine light. The problem. Every so often when I come to start from cold it takes much longer to crank and start the engine. Details. Most times the start is good with the engine running well on what sounds like the 3rd or 4th compression. At random hard starts there is always the sound of the fuel pump prime and a good healthy cranking speed. The crank time is extended to over 5 seconds, then it fires up cleanly and runs well at the regular idle speed. So far there has not been a failure to start, but next time....? I have put my basic OBD code reader on and found no stored faults. Action. Before I start a random parts replacement exercise starting with the crank position sensor, has anyone got any experience with this type of problem and could point me in the correct direction. ScaniaPBman.
  8. Front wheels knocking over bumps

    Sean, Before you attack the rubber bushes on the bottom wishbone suspension thingy, have a look at the drop link from the antiroll bar to the suspension strut. The link is about 22cm long with a ball joint at each end. I have had several of these fail on my old Mk1 and they make just the noise you describe. To test, jack the car up with both front wheels off the ground.This leaves the droplink unloaded. Take the wheel off, then try to move the ball joints by hand. Sometimes the small rubber gaiter which protects the ball joint is perished letting dirt in. Any movement from the joint will cause a suspension knock over uneven ground. They are cheap and easy to replace. ScaniaPBman.
  9. Strange Knocking Noise (Rear Wheel)

    Err, have you checked all the wheel nuts are tight? Jack it up and check the wheel bearings, one might have failed. It happened to me once and it was that bad that the rear wheel was sitting at a crazy angle ready to come off. ScaniaPBman
  10. I was aware that a windscreen was part of the strength of the vehicle body, but it didn't worry my for a second. Just went ahead with my bodge skillfull repair. ScaniaPBman.
  11. Firstly, I also tried sealing the top of the screen with high quality duct tape but it made no difference. The water kept coming in. I suspect that it was entering from the top corner and running across. Try taping right down the side as well. Secondly prising the gasket back was indeed tricky. I fashioned a piece of sturdy plastic to a point and eased it in under the gasket at the top corner then slid it across to where I was working. You need something softer than the paint to stop scratching. Once you get the plastic piece to where you want, the nozzle of the sealant cartridge can be pushed in to the cavity through the small gap either side the plastic. It took me several attempts to sort this out, just have a go yourself. I am sure you will come up with something better. How about a wooden clothes peg? Remember, the sealant recommended never actually sets hard. ScaniaPBman.
  12. Justin, you are in the same position that I was in a year or so ago. The Focus I purchased had previously had a new front screen fitted. It was fine in the dry but after heavy rain and parked at a particular angle it would leak just as you describe. It wasn't the aerial. Definitely coming from the top centre of the screen. The advice from other posts here was to remove the headlining and apply sealer around the earthing strap which may not have been properly finished when the screen was replaced. I balked at this, too difficult for me! I decided to seal up the screen from the outside by filling the gap behind the rubber gasket between the top of the glass and the forward edge of the roof. But which sealer to use? Advice here and independently was that regular silicone sealer is NOT compatible with the stuff now used on vehicle windscreens.This is the one I used http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Windscreen-Sealant-Window-Sunroof-Cluster-Leak-light-Repair-Sealer-black-/221930842939?hash=item33ac1beb3b I put up with the leak till the weather warmed up because I wanted to have the sealant into a dry area. A few strategically placed old towels kept the gearstick and seat area dry till then. After a spell of a couple of weeks hot sunshine and no rain, I started. Pulling back the gasket is not that easy, but with a bit of fiddling it gets better with practise. Beginning at one side of the screen and with the cartridge in the applicator http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SEALANT-TUBE-CARTRIDGE-GUN-SILICONE-MASTIC-CAULK-APPLICATOR-SKELETON-TRIGGER-/371382316187?hash=item56781c6c9b:g:jLsAAOSwHnFVo3UL I pumped the stuff in until it was coming back up again. It needed more than half of the cartridge to fill across the top. There has never been a drop of water through since. Let us know how you get on. ScaniaPBman.
  13. So Help Needed Rear Brakes

    Just as iantt says. This is the way I set mine. All threads etc. are clean and free but there is no sign of self adjustment with the drum on. When checking the adjustment put the drum on, pull the handbrake cable to operate/centre the shoes then make sure the drum spins without binding. In case you think I might not have everything assembled correctly ( didn't trust myself to remember!), I took the drums off another Focus to check all was correct. There is a setting gap inside the drum for the handbrake lever. I don't have it to hand right now but never needed it myself anyway. ScaniaPBman.
  14. High Pitched Whine Noise

    Once you have checked out the more obvious things as suggested above, have a look at how I diagnosed a gearbox bearing failure on a previous focus. The post below gives the method. It is a bit of a challenge to set up, but it will help to guide you with confidence to the source of the whine problem. For me it was well worth the effort. http://www.fordownersclub.com/forums/topic/67160-whine/?p=454379 Let us know how you get on. ScaniaPBman.
  15. Help Urgent Mk2 Clutch?!?!?!?

    Before I set off on my hols, I carefully checked for clutch slip amongst other things. All OK. 400 mile on, what do you know, the clutch started to slip just a little at first but when provoked full slip. I found a local non franchised garage who replaced driven plate, cover and slave cylinder for £300. He was recommended by a friend and did a superb job. The parts were LUK sourced from Euro Car Parts. I got a price from the nearby Ford dealer at £500 plus parts ( I thanked him but did not get back!) and £180 from a "clutch specialist" but since the parts on their own would cost in the region of £130 I gave him a miss as well. The annoying thing was that if I was at home I would have done the job myself. ScaniaPBman. PS. This is the wife's Focus, a 1.6 Ti-VCT manual transmission.