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DF10

Budding Enthusiast
  • Content count

    12
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About DF10

  • Rank
    Member

Contact Methods

  • First Name
    David

Profile Information

  • Ford Model
    Focus MK1
  • Ford Year
    1999
  • UK/Ireland Location
    Northamptonshire
  • Annual Mileage
    10,001 to 15,000
  1. Great post, very insightful, thanks. I was a little bit excited I actually had 1.6litres hiding under the hood! Ha Cool, well I'm going to presume this 1.6 head is going to do the job then.
  2. Oh, also, the head looked like !Removed!, there was what looked like the remains of a valve right next to an exhuast valve seat and a crack... My friend pointed me in the direction of another friend who had a full 1.6 head with 3 month gurantee for a bargain £70 so though may aswell. As my old head was a 1.6, if it turns out it is a 1.4 block still, this should fit straight on right... Or do I need to put in a cancel call? Would cams be different etc
  3. Ok, so I checked the vin and it shows a 1.4. The block has 1.6 stamped on it and the engine code is 4m5g xxxx KA. Is this a coincidence or has this had a 1.6 KA engine installed? Edit: should have read the above properly, so it's likely a 1.6 (hence the stamp) but with smaller bore and stroke. Right?
  4. In the middle of some engine jobs, thought I would do the head gasket whilst I had the belt off. My car is, via log book and was sold as, a 1.4. However the cylinder head and induction manifold has 1.6 stamped on it, plus putting the head codes into google throws up 1.6 a few times. The gear box code also shows 1.6 in 2 results. There are no stickers (which from searching looks the way to tell) left on the block for me to confirm. I need to try and confirm its not just the head that's been changed. Is it even legal for the used car place I brought it from not to disclose this? Basically I have been driving with invalid insurance for the last 6 months.
  5. Update: in regards to the latter, stuck engine mount stud. In case anyone else ever runs into this problem. Spoke to a ford technician who gave me some tips. Gave it a good crack head on with a hammer to break up any oxidation, then screwed on 2 15mm washer nuts on top of the nut I had already on there. Tightened the washer nuts in to each other, Then attached a pair of mile grips behind the thread as hard as possible, and turned the middle but anti-clockwise alongside the mole grips. Took a little while an had to reset the miles each time but it came out.
  6. I stupidly, when putting my engine mounts back on today, trapped the inlet cam sprocket which had no bolt in, and chipped a tooth. My scrappy has no 1.4's, but a couple of 1.6's and 1.8's. would the sprocket be the same size? Also, could anybody suggest a way to remove the bolt below (alternator/engine mount stud) as the star head broke of when loosening, i think is cross threaded, and have tried locking 2 nuts together (as seen in picture) and then anyi/clockwise turning the furthest to try to turn the bolt, had a few revolutions in over an hour of trying but now the thread is no more. Was thinking about hacksawing it off so I can slide the mount off for now, and then using a stud extractor? Is this doable? Thanks for any help with either.
  7. That's exactly what I am using.... Haynes says to remove before loosening crank pulley though.
  8. Couple of questions. The timing belt kit I brought has a bolt that I am not sure about. Could anybody suggest what it is for? I guess that the 2 silver bolts are for the cams, and one of the black bolts is for the crank pulley, but what about the other one? I am also guessing the riveted cuff stays on there, and its simply a case of attaching it and releasing the stopper. Seeing as there is no way to adjust it seemingly. That correct? Finally, My haynes manual says I should get TDC using timing pin and then check cams with the tool. Then remove them and take of the crank pulley. As I do not have a pulley holder, is it possible to either: 1. Find TDC, then remove tools, and hold the flywheel in place to crack of the nut, then put the bolt back in, minus the pulley, so i can turn the engine over and get back to TDC if it did move. Then put tools in and change belt. 2. Put timing tools in, and leave them in to take of the pulley? Maybe lock of the flywheel as extra security. Thanks for any help.
  9. Hi Guys. I started a topic a few days back asking if my MK1 was worth saving http://www.fordownersclub.com/forums/topic/41120-mk1-fix-or-scrap/#entry239862 Which has led to me getting started on the repairs. Thought I would start a separate thread to record my progress, and ask for help when needed! Plans for the focus: immediate (2 week timefame) 1. Get it back on the road: Doing Aux belt, Timing belt, Water pump, PAS pump, Steering rack, drop links, rear bushes and full service. 2. Cosmetic fixes: Both bumpers repaired and resprayed. Replace passenger door card, passenger seat recliner, interior clean. Refurb alloys. 3. Styling: CC splitters, skirts and side strips. Rear window tints, spray alloys (dark smoke), console and dash parts sprayed (maybe blue?), paint calipers (blue), HID's. Long term, will possibly lower & exhaust. Make some interior modifications. So, yesterday, after running around hunting down the cheapest parts, picking them up, sorting out tools and visiting the scrappy today, I had a few hours to get started on the car. Burnt one of them looking for my keys, parking the car on the only small strip of level driveway I could find, and making sure my axle stands were perfect. 1st job if the day. Replace the drop links. 1st job of the day...sucked!! Ha. Number one nut, came of fine, the other 3 came off a few mm before the joint started spinning. Had to get some serious leverage on them with a spanner to get them off. The last one was so tight and broke so early (then drop link fully pulled off) that I think the ball socket actually twisted and reflexed (when I let go of the spanner it went flying! Attached a picture of them post removal, top one was already wrecked, looked a lot like it does now. Bottom set was the one that broke whilst still attached!! Also removed the AUX belt, idle pulley and timing covers before dark, ready to crack on today. Will try and get some pictures to show the state its currently in..
  10. Awesome, thanks! Found the ACS rack yesterday, great price, that PAS pump price saves me a few quid though! I was a bit cautious about them super cheap timing kit and water pumps, espeically as they are a major enginet component! so my pricing list has gates belt and seperate WP. But will reconsider if budget keeps going up. Ok so, going to go ahead with the fix. Been out and got a torque wrench and good axles stands today. Just need to wait in the parts and get started. I will keep the thread updates with progress... And no doubt help questions! :)
  11. Thanks for the reply. That was my initial thought, the problem with it is once my budget is gone, im dry for a month, so any fix would need to wait! Wish someone would invent a big !Removed! foam finger that starts pointing at the car with the most problem free mileage!
  12. Hi Guys, Hope you don't mind me diving straight in to the forum . :) I own a MK1 3dr 1.4 zeetec focus. Had it for 6 months, brought for £900 with 85k on the clock. After a month or so of owning started to develop a few problems, aux squeal, squeaky brakes, engine management light and some noises coming from timing belt (tentioner?). Decided recently to get it checked at ford, huge rap sheet. Big ones, Steering rack and PAS pump, + drive belt, front drop links, rear bushes, diff seal. Plus needs a timing and WP change and a good service. ££££££. Also needs some minor bits present when i brought it (passenger seat recliner wheel, passenger door card, AC + rear heated window relay + bumpers are cracked). Student with a son and expensive GF! Ha, so budget is next too nothing, so on the hunt for a new car under 1k, long story short, bought a punto, it was in need of repair (piston rings), kicked off and returned to dealer, lost £80 during process, budget now 900. I now can't find anything that is completely sound, so realistically, looking at best, 100 to fix any faults on a new car. Done some pricing up of everything i need to get the focus close to perfect, looking at £500 using a mixture of scrappy, euro car parts and ebay. Plus will do all the work myself with a haynes manual. (5 years back i was 3 years through a mechanic apprenticeship which I never finished for family reasons. so know basics, but diagnosing is not strong). This saves me around £400 and I have a car that should be sound ( ). But its a ton of work! Does anyone think its worth it for the work load, or just keep looking for a good replacement? Scrap it and get £130 plus 2 months tax. Hard question to answer i know, just wondering opinions. Last thing, honest! Have a fault , which i am not sure of. Car idle drops when slowing down to a stop, then picks straight back up again, not sure if idle control, speed sensor? And also, noticed today 1 time, when in gear,no gas, car was moving as if i had a touch of throttle on? Same fault as idle maybe? Thanks for your time..sorry for the long post! Any help really appreciated. Thanks.
  13. Welcome to the Ford forums DF10 :)