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About wase16ll

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    Ford Enthusiast

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  • UK/Ireland Location
    Greater London
  • Annual Mileage
    5001 to 10,000
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  1. would definitely be worth trying before going any further.
  2. couple of questions are you sure its still misfiring on no 4 or taking it for granted its the same cylinder...ie, has it been tested and/or codes read since the coil pack was replaced. can you also update the time frame of when all those parts were replaced. I would check for fault codes first, if possible, do a compression test to eliminate any chance its not mechanical problem rather than electrical/fuel fault.
  3. headlight is just as likely to be the 'internal housing' causing the incorrect beam if you google headlight beam pattern..should see plenty of examples to what you should see if you shone your dipped headlights against a flat surface (such as a wall/garage door) misalignment is a different fault...basicly the beam is correct but aimed too high/low/left or right incorrectly fitted bulb, water inside headlight glass or insecure reflector or bulb holder are all main causes of incorrect beam.
  4. just to add to whats already been suggested. 1..Timing belt...would be advisable to change before running the engine..no matter how little mileage its done since last change 2..Brake fluid...will still absorb water despite being dry stored 3..Coolant...recommend drain and a full flushing
  5. cannot suggest a code reader as its a long time since i plugged into an old ford..but from memory.. 95 was, i think, the year a 16pin socket was fitted, but you often find there is the older type 3 pin socket under the bonnet too..it was the crossover point. there are code readers that connected and read fault codes on these 16 pins, but they were also very limited beyond that, i.e, live data, system readiness etc...for that you need a genuine ford tester which can be very rare and pricey if your looking for something purely to read codes, then cheapest route is to check if you have the 3 pin socket too, if so, Gunson do a connector for around £15, gives you the codes via a flashing LED, could probably pick one up on the internet for pennies, there was also people that manufactured their own readers that converted the flashing LED to text, do a search and you may find some up for sale... for 16 pin readers..be careful, as the early Ford dont always work on the standard obd 1 and 11 readers...need to confirm if your ecu is EEC IV or EEC V, and ask if the reader is compatible for this system if you have the 3 pin socket, i have a genuine Ford tester i can sell you cheaply, did advertise it here couple of months ago so should be somewhere on the for sale section, never got round to putting it up for offer anywhere else
  6. i'll put it this way disconnecting the battery and leaving for 5/10 mins before working on anything that maybe involved or close to, the air bag system is a foolproof and safe way to operate.. from experience, i've performed this particular operation many times on many different makes without disconnecting the battery, safe in the knowledge it wont trigger air bags. this sensor wire will not trigger airbags, even if ignition is on, as its only purpose is to inform air bag ecu if there is an occupent on the offending seat, its not linked directly to any pyrotechnics of the system...BUT.. i would never perform this task with ignition on/engine running and would never actually reccommend verbally or written, anyone to perform it with battery connected...just suggesting that its unecessary for this particular task in your case, i would disconnect battery purely on the basis your not sure which is the relevent connector, (as i would under the circumstances) so therefore may interfere with connections that are linked to the pyrotechnics,
  7. not sure, but the pressure sensor is fitted to the seat base, so check for wire that exits the base under the seat and follow it to the connector...just make sure key is out of ignition while playing around with the wire..no need to disconnect battery for the task though
  8. common cause is the seat pressure sensors...particularly if the seat gets moved..normally unplugging the connector and replugging under the seat is enough to sort it out
  9. one other thing...the lambda sensors are the main sensors for setting/adjusting the fueling, so just because your lambda readings are fine, doesnt necessarily mean the lambda sensors must be ok. the machine is measuring lambda from the exhaust gasses/tailpipe, not what the lambda sensors are doing... a high lambda suggests a leak in the exhaust system, low lambda suggests an air leak before the lambda sensors...thats a very basic explanation, can get a bit more complicated than that but suffice to say, a correct lambda reading doesnt necessarily mean everything is hunky dory.
  10. could be the stat housing itself, often crack, so would suggest getting a stat and housing
  11. to take this back to the beginning...few corrections coolant temp sensor plays a vital role in emissions, its this sensor that informs the ecu of engine temperature...ie, cold or hot. think of it as a modern choke system...a faulty sensor is a common cause of high CO. an air leak anywhere in the system will also play havoc with CO, at idle/low revs, the only place air can escape is through the exhaust, as, as you correctly stated the manifold pressure is lower than outside pressure, so rather than air escaping, its actually sucking extra air in...this extra air is unmonitored as its after the air flow sensor, so the air flow sensor is telling the ecu one thing but the extra air is detected by the lambda sensors in the exhaust system, which therefore tells the ecu to increase the fuel to counter it as it believes the engine is running too weak. so....if spraying around the manifold changes the CO, then yes, its an air leak problem...check all vacuum hoses/gaskets/breathers and the manifold itself...you could double check this yourself if you either didnt witness the test or just doubt the diagnosis...run the engine till warm, then with everything connected, spray wd40 all round the manifolds/pipes/breathers etc..if air leak exists, you should hear a difference in the running as you spray. matter of interest, is this a single point or multipoint injection engine (either has round air filter on top of engine, or square filter to the side of engine)
  12. would still change that other shock as soon as you can when finances allow. trust me, the old shock is going to be far weaker than the new one, despite it looking and feeling perfectly servicable...this will affect the steering/road holding/braking etc...not enough to really notice any difference under normal circumstances, but they will really come into play when having to brake hard and quickly...proven fact that new shocks will reduce your braking distance, but in order for this to work, they need to be matching pairs. good shout on the throttle body and idle control valve, well worth a clean. another possible..have the fuel pressure checked, with particular attention to the fuel holding pressure when engine is switched off.
  13. the oil is fed to the cylinder head via a channel milled into block and head, so there is a part of the head gasket that has a built in seal to prevent the oil seeping away. its possible the oil can seep into the nearest cylinder, or leak externally...if that is the case, it will not show any signs of a problem in the cooling system as its not leaking into it...wont get the gunk on the oil cap either, as that requires the water to enter the cylinders/block... so its feasible that part of the head gasket can fail without any symptoms of water loss/overheating etc... this is where the borescope comes in handy, by putting a camera into the plug holes you can get a good view of the cylinders/piston crowns for signs of oil contamination. would still go ahead with a sniff test, as if there is even a minor problem with the head gasket, then might indicate that oilway being a problem too. can also do a wet and dry compression test to help diagnose the state of the bores/rings. check the pcv system before going into heavier duty work. from memory, its under the inlet manifold on the right as you look from the front...probably see a small grey valve with a pipe goint to a t piece, with two further pipes connected directly into inlet manifold. one other thing, vital oil isnt overfilled as this will often cause oil to run up the pcv straight into the cylinders...in the past, have found that when you change the oil, only fill it to halfway between min/max..this can help slow down the burning if the bores/rings are the cause
  14. doesnt have one, would check around to make sure you havent dislodged any wiring connections.. maybe bleed the system
  15. im just talking about an old engine with 75k on the clock...shouldnt really burn any at all once engine has been run in it all boils down to wether the owner wants to spend the money on rectifying it or not, in my experience, 1 lit per 500 is often put up with...and i quite often see these engines burn, though slightly less than quoted. by his post, he obviously wants to get to the bottom of it, hence the suggestions i put up, it was more a case of, i've seen these engines doing similar, its not unusual, but can get very expensive to rectify if your doing 500 miles per week, it gets expensive if you put up with just topping up, if on the other hand your doing 500 per month maximum then its generally accepted. burn rates also differ with driving, usually, motorways burn less than town/stop start..again depending on what is actually causing the burn... as the oil burning rarely gives off smoke, it can be quite difficult to pin the cause...checking the pcv system may indicate if there is excessive crankcase pressure...ie..rings/bores/blockages in breathing otherwise most likely cause is valve guides/seals, or possibly the head gasket...occasionly you may see evidence of oil on top of piston crown/s if you put a borescope down the plug holes also may pay to have the oil pressure checked, could be the relief valve sticking, though you rarely see this in modern engines.