Ford Owners Club - Ford Forums Messages


Join us on the Ford Owners Club stand at Ford Fair, Silverstone on Sunday 6th August 2017.

Click this link to find out more

AdBlock Warning

Parts of this website do not function properly with AdBlock enabled on your device. To get the best user experience on our website, please disable Adblock for this website (domain) on your browser.


Budding Enthusiast
  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About spannerman

  • Rank

Contact Methods

  • First Name

Profile Information

  • Ford Model
  • Ford Year
  • UK/Ireland Location
  • Annual Mileage
    0 to 5000
  1. I sorted the problem at last. the engine ran on cylinders 3 + 4 only for around 5 minutes, then decided to stop shaking too much on tick over. ran for @ 3 minutes at 2500 rpm, then tick over seemed a little better. took a chance and slowly drove down the road, ran but still shaking. put my boot down, crept up to @ 2000 rpm, let out a large grey / white cloud of exhaust smoke. then took off like a rocket ship. drove @ the block, tick over still a little bit shakey . went around the block a couple of times, now running perfectly fine, with no problems at all. thank you for all the advice given by various members spannerman
  2. checked with the scanner, no codes found. tried some easy start - engine started and ran, very badly. pulled the electrical plugs off the injectors, one at a time with the engine running cylinders 1 and 2 have no apparent effect. cylinders 3 and 4 have a noticeable effect. so appears that 1 and 2 cylinders are not firing. checked compression again, all ok, checked heater plugs, all failed. were ok when I started the job, so I may have killed them, with the long cranking sessions. so 4 heater plugs now on order. next might try swapping 1+2 for 3+4, and reprogramming to see if cylinders 1 and 2 run ok ??
  3. hi there. what gap do you think you have now between the sensor and the timing lugs. I have a similar problem, but do not want to damage my crank sensor. in reply to your own problem, have you thought about a compression test
  4. valve timing was spot on. took the head off and found the smallest speck of carbon on the valve on cylinder no4. decided to grind in all valves. did a compression test in garage, all cylinders @ 320 lbs. engine now in the car again. recoded all the injectors again. tries to start, but wont. driving me mad. never had so much problems with a engine
  5. down loaded a manual for an x-type jag, fitted with tdci engine. same information about crank setting, i.e. 50 deg before tdc, but in much more detail than the Haynes manual I have now pulled the engine back out of the car. I will double check the valve timing first. I can do a compression test out of the car. do not want to take the head off. unless it is really necessary. might try loosening off the rocker shaft next. just in case a valve clearance is a bit tight
  6. it took @ three strokes to get the readings. before I rebuilt the engine, cylinder no1 was at 200psi, due to sucking in water and the car put out a white smoke screen for the first 10 minutes of running from cold, with a definite engine shake. not sure what is problem now. I want to be 100% on the correct valve timing before stripping down again
  7. tried easy ran for @ 5 seconds, but rough. did a compression test originally cranking pressures were :- cylinder 1 200lbs 2/3/4 all 400lbs so had a bent rod, which i replaced now cylinder 1/2/3 around 300lbs cylinder 4 100lbs so I think that maybe timing is one tooth out on the crank. when engine rebuilt it was turned over by hand to check piston / valve contact, and it did not appear to have a problem, so I hope that I have not bent any valves it has a dual mass flywheel with a 5 speed manual gearbox 130bhp. I have used formidable to reprogramme the injectors. no fault codes in pcm diagnostics
  8. all the injectors are where they should be. I have read in all the codes to the car using formidable, using the codes from the injectors. car will still not start. traced the fuel pump solenoid wiring back to the main engine connection multiplug. checked for continuity from multiplug to solenoid plug on injection pump, all ok. broke into the cables at the multiplug to check for voltage. when cranking no voltage, when stop cranking, I get 12v for @ 2 seconds only. would still like to be sure valve timing is ok I cannot find any information on crank setting, with flywheel having 58 pick-ups, with two missing, same flywheel is listed on ebay as mondeo tdci
  9. hello tony the two missing lugs are next to each other. I have now set the engine to tdc, then turned back 50 deg, and put the chain on at this position. engine now back in car, tries to start, but wll not run. checked using formidable - according to lap top, two injectors have values, the other two have all zeros. I am now thinking that the two with all zeros are not firing at all ????
  10. new member here. I am rebuilding a 52 plate mondeo estate, 130 tdci engine. it had a bent rod which is now replaced. my problem is the following. ___ set cams as per Haynes manual using 6mm pins fuel pump set using coloured links on chain, I cannot set crank due to the following timing pin should be in flywheel at 50 deg, i.e. crank position sensor hole. manual stated 36 lugs, with one missing for 50 deg position. ???? I have 58 pick up points+ 2 that are missing. engine was running, but smokey, due to low compression on one cylinder, before I started on it. why a different number of pickups and how to set crank to valves, any suggestion / advice please. sorry about the typing in advance
  11. Welcome to the Ford forums spannerman :)