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Budding Enthusiast
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About Quint

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  • Ford Model
    2.0 TDCi
  • Ford Year
  • UK/Ireland Location
  • Annual Mileage
    15,001 to 20,000
  1. Thanks! I'll have to study especially the turbo clamping first or bring it to some experts, both mechanical and detailers. :-) I don't think I can DIY this.
  2. I actually did try tape and it worked! Got me some duct tape and just covered the hole completely. Voila! Took it out for a test drive, switched to manual, drove it hard over 3k RPM, and the error didn't come back. Even better, no more black smoke due to rich fuel mixture. I hope I didn't bring in too much of dust into the system to build up the gunk in the turbo. Is this something that I should be worried about? Is there any way of 'cleaning' what has gone into the intake? Or do they just eventually get burnt with all the air? If there's something preventive that I can do just to spare me a potentially expensive turbo fix?
  3. The culprit. What to do? I need a new or used airbox / air filter housing. I wonder if I can source from there in any of the used parts dealers? If I seal it, would you recommend rubber, or silicone gasket? A friend that its potentially damaging to a turbo if debris get sucked in. Yikes!
  4. Thanks, for validating, Peter. Much appreciated.
  5. I'm surprised it doesn't have an error code. If this is the case, then probably there is a vacuum leak from the intake side? Since its made of plastic and rubber, perhaps looking for cracks from the air cleaner>MAP>intake tube>intake manifold would be a good exercise. A "smoke test" or carb cleaner test (for petrol) was done on our older cars to check if this was the case.
  6. Should voltmeter settings be at 12v? Should the negative battery terminal be disconnected? 1. If there is not 5 Volts on the reference circuit, then check for the reference voltage at the PCM connector. If it is present at the PCM connector but not the MAP connector, repair the open in the reference circuit between the PCM and MAP harness connector. If 5 Volt reference is NOT present at the PCM connector, check powers and grounds of PCM and repair/replace as needed. (NOTE: On Chrysler products, a shorted Crank sensor, Vehicle speed sensor or any other sensor that utilizes the 5 Volt reference from the PCM can short out the 5 Volt reference. To fix simply unplug each sensor one at a time until the 5 Volt reference reappears. The last sensor unplugged is the shorted sensor.) 2. If you have a 5 Volt reference at the MAP connector, jumper the 5 volt reference circuit to the signal circuit. Now check the MAP voltage on the scan tool. It should be 4.5 to 5 Volts. If it is, replace MAP sensor. If not, repair open/short in the signal circuit wiring and re-check. 3. If all appears okay, perform a wiggle test. Start engine and manipulate the harness, connector and tap on the MAP sensor. Note any changes in voltage or engine speed. Repair connector, harness, or sensor as needed. 4. If the wiggle test checks out, use a vacuum pump (or just use your lungs) to draw a vacuum on the MAP sensor vacuum port. As you add vacuum the voltage should decrease. With no vacuum, the MAP sensor should read approximately 4.5 volts. If there is no change in MAP sensor reading on the scan tool, replace MAP sensor.Read more at:
  7. Thanks, Peter. I had it scanned by a shop and it pointed to the same thing, MAP lambda sensor.
  8. Hi everyone, If I drive "normally" and don't rev too high (below 3k RPM), the error does not appear. However, when I step on it and RPM reaches over 3k, the error will be triggered and the code P010L appears, which points to the MAP sensor. I've tried cleaning it once by spraying carb cleaner on it, but the error just keeps coming back. I've also noticed that there's more black smoke that comes of the exhaust, and at times, the car goes on limp mode. Is it just a MAP sensor replacement, or do you think there is still a fix available for it? If there's anyone who can provide correct ampere rating values to check if the MAP is really a goner or not, I'd really appreciate it. If you also have the exact part number, I would also appreciate it because the local shops, including the dealer(s) do not have the part in stock and I might be able to source from UK and ship to Asia. Any help would be appreciated. Thank you.
  9. Thanks, Stef. The car still experiences this clicking sound after the replacement. The same humming sound seemed to not go away. When they looked at the velocity bearings, the grease on the inner ones turned liquid and spilled out. I was thinking, that's probably it, but I'm unsure. That's a costly repair, as its an assembly. I would like to know if anyone has had similar experiences, because I am inclined to go with the following: 1. Flywheel? I am unsure as mine is a tiptronic TDCi model. Its roughly at 90k. I can feel slight slippage when stepping on the pedal and when the torque kicks in. 2. Velocity bearing, but I'm still iffy. It clicks on low speed, and there's a slight hum in high speed. Appreciate the help! Thanks!
  10. Yes. It was pressed out and in with no problems. I had it checked again today. Everything is tight. It seems that we diagnosed wrong. It was not the wheel bearing that I should have replaced. I'm about to repack my inner and outer velocity bearings. I hope it does the job. Otherwise, its replacement.
  11. Last week, I changed the front bearings of my mk2.5 TDCi because it was humming. While I was at it, I replaced the tie rod assembly, both bar and end. After a week, I could hear clicks and knocks on it that is becoming more annoying. Anyone who experienced this before?
  12. Hi, Would appreciate to see a step by step with pics. Also, kindly indicate if its for a petrol or diesel. Thanks!
  13. I just experienced this exact problem today, and was wondering how you solved this issue. The mechanics wouldn't give it another push in fear of breaking the plastic housing. I find it a bit ridiculous that this has happened, and I surmise that its because its a vacuum environment where the pressure needs to be released first before you can open it. Any kind of help would be appreciated. Thanks!
  14. Even if he changed the clutch but if the fluid is old, it would still be clogged with dirty / burnt oil, which will further burn the clutch.
  15. I have a theory based on experience at 55k. I think the fluctuating is caused by the computer getting confused. Thick oil creates heaviness/load > computer dictates downshift, but RPM reaches gear threshold > computer dictates upshift, thus, the fluctuation. Shudder is caused by a bit of slippage between gear changes. So I asked the mechanic to: 1. change the ATF. 2. If no.1 doesn't work, check and clean sensors. 3. if no. 2 doesn't work, check clutch and pressure plates (because of slippage). ATF replacement did the job and problem went away. Discovered that DSG didn't have filter but strainer. It was clogged according to the mechanic. Prolong the usage at your own peril as it can potentially burn the clutches. Hope this helps.