Budding Enthusiast
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About Quint

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  • Ford Model
    2.0 TDCi
  • Ford Year
  • UK/Ireland Location
  • Annual Mileage
    15,001 to 20,000
  1. Yes, replaced the small ARB bushings as well. I also checked on the welds. Its all good.
  2. Sorry, I'm unfamiliar with the jargon, arb? What is it exactly?
  3. My car, a Focus 2.0 TDCi, has been experiencing rattles that are progressively getting louder and annoying. It happens mostly on uneven roads, small bumps, and humps, but not really on the big potholes. Drop links / stab links, lower arm/ ball joints, shock mounts, engine supports and stab bar bushing replaced, but the rattle persists. I'm beginning to think that its the CV joints but need to be sure. If it is, would appreciate it if someone can get point to me the part number & brand that they used so I could get this issue sorted out. Thanks!
  4. Hi. Did you ever fix this issue? I'm having similar problems and practically did the same repairs except for the CV joints. But I want to make sure that's the culprit as this is turning into a money pit, yet the rattles remain.
  5. Hi. Was this ever fixed? Would be interested on what happened and what was the source of the rattle as I'm battling similar issues. I've since replaced the shock mounts, the stab bar bushings, shocks are ok, lower arm assembly & ball joints ok. Only thing left are the drive shafts / CV joints, which I don't know is a source of rattles on 2.0 TDCis. On that topic, I would like to know if there are separate joint kits being sold, or just the whole drive shafts needs replacing. Would appreciate some feedback or experience of others who have a similar model. Thanks!
  6. I actually tried many options and ended up going to the dealer to check whether the airbox or the intake tube was the culprit. We took an airbox from the parts department and compared it to mine only to find out that the gap was actually "normal." Yes, that picture above is a normal gap even in a brand new airbox, so I was stomped. Anyway, so when I got home, I decided to clean the MAF sensor thoroughly. I had electric contact cleaner and liberally sprayed it on the MAF sensor, left it there til it dried up. I also noticed an oil leak under the intake manifold and I thought that it just spilled from the oil cap or the dipstick area. Anyway, I cleaned the oil leak after cleaning the MAF sensor, and when I finished, went for a test drive to see whether it was still going to trigger the same P010L error, smoke really bad as before, and if it was going to go on limp mode. I drove it in manual mode so I could rev it above 3-4.5k RPMs to see if it was going to trigger the error. But there was none. So I figured the MAF sensor cleaning actually did the job. But when I opened the hood, I saw an oil leak in the same place again, so I tried to find it and I cleaned it up again. I put some clean tissue on the spot where the oil leaks were, and started the engine, revved it to 3k, and saw some little black oil spots on it coming from the charger intake hose. Bought a hose today, replaced it, and saw that the old one had a huge gash on it. Weird thing was, it wasn't giving any hissing or whistling sound just like what I saw on youtube. Anyway, I have a question. I know its a different topic altogether, but I wonder if anyone knows the torque figures (if any) on these two hose clamp screws that hold the charger intake hose. Steps I took: (30 minutes) 1. Removed dust cover. 2. Removed upper hose clamp using a flat screw driver or #6 socket. 3. Removed right headlight to access lower hose clamp. 4. Removed lower hose clamp using the same tools as #2. 5. Removed hose clamp holder using a star screwdriver (don't know what size). 6. Cleaned both intake and intercooler ends with carb cleaner before installing the new hose.
  7. For the life of me I can't find any used parts back home, so may I ask who are the good ones in UK who have good quality used parts? Any link or help would be much appreciated. The tape tends to wear off after long use, and the error re-appears. Thanks in advance, and Happy New Year to all!
  8. Thanks! I'll have to study especially the turbo clamping first or bring it to some experts, both mechanical and detailers. :-) I don't think I can DIY this.
  9. I actually did try tape and it worked! Got me some duct tape and just covered the hole completely. Voila! Took it out for a test drive, switched to manual, drove it hard over 3k RPM, and the error didn't come back. Even better, no more black smoke due to rich fuel mixture. I hope I didn't bring in too much of dust into the system to build up the gunk in the turbo. Is this something that I should be worried about? Is there any way of 'cleaning' what has gone into the intake? Or do they just eventually get burnt with all the air? If there's something preventive that I can do just to spare me a potentially expensive turbo fix?
  10. The culprit. What to do? I need a new or used airbox / air filter housing. I wonder if I can source from there in any of the used parts dealers? If I seal it, would you recommend rubber, or silicone gasket? A friend that its potentially damaging to a turbo if debris get sucked in. Yikes!
  11. Thanks, for validating, Peter. Much appreciated.
  12. I'm surprised it doesn't have an error code. If this is the case, then probably there is a vacuum leak from the intake side? Since its made of plastic and rubber, perhaps looking for cracks from the air cleaner>MAP>intake tube>intake manifold would be a good exercise. A "smoke test" or carb cleaner test (for petrol) was done on our older cars to check if this was the case.
  13. Should voltmeter settings be at 12v? Should the negative battery terminal be disconnected? 1. If there is not 5 Volts on the reference circuit, then check for the reference voltage at the PCM connector. If it is present at the PCM connector but not the MAP connector, repair the open in the reference circuit between the PCM and MAP harness connector. If 5 Volt reference is NOT present at the PCM connector, check powers and grounds of PCM and repair/replace as needed. (NOTE: On Chrysler products, a shorted Crank sensor, Vehicle speed sensor or any other sensor that utilizes the 5 Volt reference from the PCM can short out the 5 Volt reference. To fix simply unplug each sensor one at a time until the 5 Volt reference reappears. The last sensor unplugged is the shorted sensor.) 2. If you have a 5 Volt reference at the MAP connector, jumper the 5 volt reference circuit to the signal circuit. Now check the MAP voltage on the scan tool. It should be 4.5 to 5 Volts. If it is, replace MAP sensor. If not, repair open/short in the signal circuit wiring and re-check. 3. If all appears okay, perform a wiggle test. Start engine and manipulate the harness, connector and tap on the MAP sensor. Note any changes in voltage or engine speed. Repair connector, harness, or sensor as needed. 4. If the wiggle test checks out, use a vacuum pump (or just use your lungs) to draw a vacuum on the MAP sensor vacuum port. As you add vacuum the voltage should decrease. With no vacuum, the MAP sensor should read approximately 4.5 volts. If there is no change in MAP sensor reading on the scan tool, replace MAP sensor.Read more at: https://www.obd-codes.com/p0107Copyright OBD-Codes.com
  14. Thanks, Peter. I had it scanned by a shop and it pointed to the same thing, MAP lambda sensor.
  15. Hi everyone, If I drive "normally" and don't rev too high (below 3k RPM), the error does not appear. However, when I step on it and RPM reaches over 3k, the error will be triggered and the code P010L appears, which points to the MAP sensor. I've tried cleaning it once by spraying carb cleaner on it, but the error just keeps coming back. I've also noticed that there's more black smoke that comes of the exhaust, and at times, the car goes on limp mode. Is it just a MAP sensor replacement, or do you think there is still a fix available for it? If there's anyone who can provide correct ampere rating values to check if the MAP is really a goner or not, I'd really appreciate it. If you also have the exact part number, I would also appreciate it because the local shops, including the dealer(s) do not have the part in stock and I might be able to source from UK and ship to Asia. Any help would be appreciated. Thank you.