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Quint

Budding Enthusiast
  • Content count

    9
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Quint

  • Rank
    Newbie

Contact Methods

  • First Name Quint

Profile Information

  • Ford Model 2.0 TDCi
  • Ford Year 2009
  • UK/Ireland Location Other/NonUK
  • Annual Mileage 15,001 to 20,000
  1. Thanks, Stef. The car still experiences this clicking sound after the replacement. The same humming sound seemed to not go away. When they looked at the velocity bearings, the grease on the inner ones turned liquid and spilled out. I was thinking, that's probably it, but I'm unsure. That's a costly repair, as its an assembly. I would like to know if anyone has had similar experiences, because I am inclined to go with the following: 1. Flywheel? I am unsure as mine is a tiptronic TDCi model. Its roughly at 90k. I can feel slight slippage when stepping on the pedal and when the torque kicks in. 2. Velocity bearing, but I'm still iffy. It clicks on low speed, and there's a slight hum in high speed. Appreciate the help! Thanks!
  2. Yes. It was pressed out and in with no problems. I had it checked again today. Everything is tight. It seems that we diagnosed wrong. It was not the wheel bearing that I should have replaced. I'm about to repack my inner and outer velocity bearings. I hope it does the job. Otherwise, its replacement.
  3. Last week, I changed the front bearings of my mk2.5 TDCi because it was humming. While I was at it, I replaced the tie rod assembly, both bar and end. After a week, I could hear clicks and knocks on it that is becoming more annoying. Anyone who experienced this before?
  4. Timing Belt Replace Focus Mk2

    Hi, Would appreciate to see a step by step with pics. Also, kindly indicate if its for a petrol or diesel. Thanks!
  5. I just experienced this exact problem today, and was wondering how you solved this issue. The mechanics wouldn't give it another push in fear of breaking the plastic housing. I find it a bit ridiculous that this has happened, and I surmise that its because its a vacuum environment where the pressure needs to be released first before you can open it. Any kind of help would be appreciated. Thanks!
  6. Even if he changed the clutch but if the fluid is old, it would still be clogged with dirty / burnt oil, which will further burn the clutch.
  7. I have a theory based on experience at 55k. I think the fluctuating is caused by the computer getting confused. Thick oil creates heaviness/load > computer dictates downshift, but RPM reaches gear threshold > computer dictates upshift, thus, the fluctuation. Shudder is caused by a bit of slippage between gear changes. So I asked the mechanic to: 1. change the ATF. 2. If no.1 doesn't work, check and clean sensors. 3. if no. 2 doesn't work, check clutch and pressure plates (because of slippage). ATF replacement did the job and problem went away. Discovered that DSG didn't have filter but strainer. It was clogged according to the mechanic. Prolong the usage at your own peril as it can potentially burn the clutches. Hope this helps.
  8. I would venture that its a transmission issue, and that you need to change the oil, if you haven't done that. My car had even worse than a shudder. The tranny was changing gears randomly between gears, upshifting upon reaching 2k, then when it felt that there was load, then it would downshift. Manual recommends replacement at 60k but these symptoms manifested at 55k . So I gave specific instructions to the dealer to the ff: 1. Change the ATF. 2. If no.1 doesn't work, check and clean sensors. 3. if no. 2 doesn't work, check clutch and pressure plates (because of shudder/slippage). Only had to do ATF. Everything was ok. A/T doesn't have a filter and only a strainer. Hope this helps.
  9. Thanks, Steve. Looking forward to learning from you guys...

  10. Does anyone have a shop manual, Haynes or Bentley for TDCi, Mk 2 or 2.5? Thanks!
  11. Welcome to the Ford forums Quint :)