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Quint

Budding Enthusiast
  • Content count

    31
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Quint

  • Rank
    Settling In Well

Contact Methods

  • First Name
    Quint

Profile Information

  • Ford Model
    2.0 TDCi
  • Ford Year
    2009
  • UK/Ireland Location
    Other/NonUK
  • Annual Mileage
    15,001 to 20,000
  1. Sorry, I didn't know how that happened. That's actually what I wrote. Hmmm....weird.
  2. Hi, I'd like to know if anyone of you has experienced this noise? I already replaced the front wheel bearings and the CVs are newly repacked. The only thing that I didn't touch is the intermediate bearing found in the driveshaft. I also found out that it doesn't have a boot over it. Here is a link of a video that I took. https://www.facebook.com/kanuto.san
  3. Hi, 2009 2.0 TDCi was averaging about 8.2-10kml/100km (very heavy traffic) for years. As I'm not using this vehicle often, but I started driving it again 2 weeks back and noticed that in the past 2 weeks the consumption has gone up to 11-14kml/100km. I find that too high for a diesel given the same traffic circumstances. So far, I've cleaned the MAF sensor, replaced the air cleaner, put injection cleaner on the car, and have observed little difference as to performance. The last oil that was used was 15w40 (hot temps here), and I'm unsure whether the heaviness of the oil contributes to the drastic change in consumption too. The car has not been driven hard at all (for years) and may need a lot of highway / high rev exposure so I've been doing this of late. The car has 113k kms on it, and would want to know if there's anything else I need to service at this point so that I could bring it back to its former performance i.e. clean EGR, etc. Any advise on what to look out for would be appreciated. Thanks!
  4. Busted stabiliser links again contributed to this rattle, as well as the niggling of front right wheel bearing. Had to replace both bearings though. I still hear some bearing-like noise after the replacement and unsure if its the rear wheel bearings, or the tires, or the front intermediate drive bearing found in the middle of the right drive shaft. Has anyone replaced this. I noticed that mine didn't have any boot cover on it, and was wondering if others had theirs covered?
  5. Yes, replaced the small ARB bushings as well. I also checked on the welds. Its all good.
  6. Sorry, I'm unfamiliar with the jargon, arb? What is it exactly?
  7. My car, a Focus 2.0 TDCi, has been experiencing rattles that are progressively getting louder and annoying. It happens mostly on uneven roads, small bumps, and humps, but not really on the big potholes. Drop links / stab links, lower arm/ ball joints, shock mounts, engine supports and stab bar bushing replaced, but the rattle persists. I'm beginning to think that its the CV joints but need to be sure. If it is, would appreciate it if someone can get point to me the part number & brand that they used so I could get this issue sorted out. Thanks!
  8. Hi. Did you ever fix this issue? I'm having similar problems and practically did the same repairs except for the CV joints. But I want to make sure that's the culprit as this is turning into a money pit, yet the rattles remain.
  9. Hi. Was this ever fixed? Would be interested on what happened and what was the source of the rattle as I'm battling similar issues. I've since replaced the shock mounts, the stab bar bushings, shocks are ok, lower arm assembly & ball joints ok. Only thing left are the drive shafts / CV joints, which I don't know is a source of rattles on 2.0 TDCis. On that topic, I would like to know if there are separate joint kits being sold, or just the whole drive shafts needs replacing. Would appreciate some feedback or experience of others who have a similar model. Thanks!
  10. I actually tried many options and ended up going to the dealer to check whether the airbox or the intake tube was the culprit. We took an airbox from the parts department and compared it to mine only to find out that the gap was actually "normal." Yes, that picture above is a normal gap even in a brand new airbox, so I was stomped. Anyway, so when I got home, I decided to clean the MAF sensor thoroughly. I had electric contact cleaner and liberally sprayed it on the MAF sensor, left it there til it dried up. I also noticed an oil leak under the intake manifold and I thought that it just spilled from the oil cap or the dipstick area. Anyway, I cleaned the oil leak after cleaning the MAF sensor, and when I finished, went for a test drive to see whether it was still going to trigger the same P010L error, smoke really bad as before, and if it was going to go on limp mode. I drove it in manual mode so I could rev it above 3-4.5k RPMs to see if it was going to trigger the error. But there was none. So I figured the MAF sensor cleaning actually did the job. But when I opened the hood, I saw an oil leak in the same place again, so I tried to find it and I cleaned it up again. I put some clean tissue on the spot where the oil leaks were, and started the engine, revved it to 3k, and saw some little black oil spots on it coming from the charger intake hose. Bought a hose today, replaced it, and saw that the old one had a huge gash on it. Weird thing was, it wasn't giving any hissing or whistling sound just like what I saw on youtube. Anyway, I have a question. I know its a different topic altogether, but I wonder if anyone knows the torque figures (if any) on these two hose clamp screws that hold the charger intake hose. Steps I took: (30 minutes) 1. Removed dust cover. 2. Removed upper hose clamp using a flat screw driver or #6 socket. 3. Removed right headlight to access lower hose clamp. 4. Removed lower hose clamp using the same tools as #2. 5. Removed hose clamp holder using a star screwdriver (don't know what size). 6. Cleaned both intake and intercooler ends with carb cleaner before installing the new hose.
  11. For the life of me I can't find any used parts back home, so may I ask who are the good ones in UK who have good quality used parts? Any link or help would be much appreciated. The tape tends to wear off after long use, and the error re-appears. Thanks in advance, and Happy New Year to all!
  12. Thanks! I'll have to study especially the turbo clamping first or bring it to some experts, both mechanical and detailers. :-) I don't think I can DIY this.
  13. I actually did try tape and it worked! Got me some duct tape and just covered the hole completely. Voila! Took it out for a test drive, switched to manual, drove it hard over 3k RPM, and the error didn't come back. Even better, no more black smoke due to rich fuel mixture. I hope I didn't bring in too much of dust into the system to build up the gunk in the turbo. Is this something that I should be worried about? Is there any way of 'cleaning' what has gone into the intake? Or do they just eventually get burnt with all the air? If there's something preventive that I can do just to spare me a potentially expensive turbo fix?