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RobK

Budding Enthusiast
  • Content count

    11
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About RobK

  • Rank
    Member

Contact Methods

  • First Name
    Rob

Profile Information

  • Gender*
    Male
  • Ford Model
    Focus 2.0 TDCi
  • Ford Year
    2007
  • UK/Ireland Location
    Bedfordshire
  • Annual Mileage
    10,001 to 15,000
  1. Hi Sam All diesel models should have this valve. Easiest thing is to look under the bonnet! Rob
  2. John - glad to hear this seems to have solved it for you, and happy to know it's not just me to have experienced it! Naz - it's called an anti shudder valve. If you give it a quick search you'll find quite a lot about it, but more often related to VAG cars. There are pictures of location on the previous page, but it's not something you'd find on a petrol car though (unless I'm very much mistaken). Rob
  3. Hi John Glad they helped. As for the oil that's to be expected so nothing to worry about there. Rob
  4. Hi John As promised some pictures to show the location. Hopefully in sequence they're quite easy to follow. For full sized pics click here. Good luck! Rob
  5. Hi John It's too dark now, but I'll take a picture for you tomorrow as it seems like the easiest way to help identify it. In very basic terms it will be the largest diameter hose (turbo hose) that comes up from the bottom of the engine to the front near the top. If you loosen the clip at the top and slide the hose off then you should be able to reach the butterfly valve with your hand. Try closing it by hand and seeing if it sticks at all or is particularly tight. I also found that squeezing the turbo hose would sometimes be enough to release the valve if it was stuck. In this case listen carefully to see if you can hear it releasing. It should always be open apart from within a few moments of the engine stopping. I never received an engine management light or fault though, so it's entirely possible you have a separate issue. Here's hoping it's simple! Hope that helps for now! Rob
  6. Hi Yeah, ended up taking it apart recently and there's no obvious reason why it's started happening. The valve was quite tight though so have sanded it down so it's not as tight a fit. Still does it's job and haven't had a problem since. Better option than paying £95 + VAT for a replacement part! Also just to go back on what I'd said before, removing the vacuum really isn't a valid solution as you'll lose turbo boost as well! Shamus - taking a little while to start probably isn't anything to worry about unless it's a long time. I guess it's not impossible it's the same valve and it's coming loose very easily, but it seems to be quite a rare problem so I'd doubt that's your issue. No harm in checking it a few times before you start up though to see if the valve is sticking closed. Rob
  7. Thanks Jeebo! Well I did go ahead and buy a Crank Shaft Sensor and a Cam Shaft Sensor, in total that was about £50... ...but on the plus side I do now have two very lightly used sensors that I could sell. Besides that it's just cost my patience and sanity for a few months! Unfortunately where I am at the moment I don't have any access to decent tools so I'm yet to strip it down and fix it properly... I'm expecting to be able to fix it when I've got it in bits but worst case scenario I'll either disable it's operation (it's much more a convenience thing that anything mechanically important) or replace the valve unit. Rob
  8. Everyone loves a resolution! So here's mine... Turns out it's the anti-stutter / anti-shudder valve that has been causing all of my woes. Basically it's like a carb on the intlet manifold. It closes when you turn off the engine to prevent it stuttering as it desperately tries to cling on to life. In simple terms it prevents any air getting into the engine. Well mine has been sticking closed, meaning that the next time I try to start the vehicle there's no air getting into the engine, hence it won't start. The vibrations of cranking the engine a few times causes the valve to come lose again, open, and allow the engine to start. There's a vacuum hose which is used to close the valve, and it's spring loaded so it should always return to being opened. While the spring is still good for some reason it's possible to push the valve so that it becomes stuck against the inlet and the spring can't return it to open. Bit surprised it's taken so long to find, but that's due to the extremely intermittent nature. Often there was no issue so the only time you knew was when it wouldn't start, at which point the vibrations from the first cranking attempt had often freed the valve so you couldn't find anything when checking. I've now got a couple of things I can do / try: - When it doesn't start I can squeeze the turbo hose to cause enough suction to free the valve (might be a useful test for someone experiencing the same issues) - I can remove the vacuum hose so that the valve never gets closed, this does have the side affect of introducing a bit of shuddering when turning the engine off, noticeable, but nothing serious I'm now going to try sanding the edges of the valve down a bit so that it doesn't get stuck, there was initially some gunk in the inlet which I thought was the cause of the sticking, but even cleaned out I can get the valve stuck closed with my hands. Hope this helps someone else! Thanks for all of the suggestions. Rob
  9. Hi jeebowhite I think my issue is electrical not mechanical. This is based on the fact that there is never any issue while the car is running and the starting issue is so intermittent. I understand what you're saying about the air / fuel mix and compression but if it were a mechanical issue I would expect to find poor running and it's anything but. The car was well serviced recently and has always been well serviced regularly. I personally can't understand how a diesel engine with fuel, crank and compression is failing to start like this is! All the hoses are fine (I've gone through them all). Fingers crossed the issue seems to have disappeared for the time being, but I'm not holding my breath. I'll keep you updated with any progress. Hope you get somewhere with your issue as well cobalt01 Thanks Rob
  10. Hi guys Thanks for the responses. I think we probably have different issues cobalt01, I only ever have a problem getting the thing started. When it's running it's as should be. Thanks for the suggestions though - let us know how you get on with yours! I'm confident the immobiliser / key fob won't be too blame. I recently lost my main key and had a new one cut and coded. So the issue has been consistently inconsistent throughout using the original main key, the spare and the new key as well! As it stands the issue does seem to have eased off recently. In my desperation whilst clutching at straws I've stripped down the EGR, not too bad a build up of carbon and nothing that wouldn't be expected, cleaned it all out and while I don't think it made a blind bit of difference I haven't had any trouble starting lately (it had eased before I touched the EGR). Will see how it goes for the next few weeks, but if nothing else the frequency has reduced significantly. As expected the diagnostics never shows anything, and I still haven't a clue as to what could possibly be causing it. The only thing I would hint as is the engine just getting a bit coked up. I've been giving it a bit of the Italian tune up and while the issue still occurred a few times it does appear to have made the difference. Anyone ever had problems like this? Thanks Rob
  11. Hi guys I've been having a bit of trouble for a while now with starting. It's really intermittent, although it has become progressively more frequent. It will happily crank over and sounds as if it's about to start then fails. This can repeat quite a few times (10+ in the worst cases) until it starts. If it's taken a few goes to get it running then you will get some white smoke from the exhaust - this is the unburnt fuel, so it is definitely injecting fuel even though it won't start... As I said this has been going on for a while, maybe 6 months now. Initially it was a case that the problem may happen a couple of times a month and it would always start on the second attempt. More recently it's happening much more frequently, and regularly requires quite a few attempts before it will start. I've had in on the diagnosis machine (I'm quite lucky and have free access to one). No error codes, nothing, nada. Even had the diagnosis machine on it during starting while it was having the issue and everything is as it should be (i.e fuel pressure is good, all sensors are a go). The diagnostics also confirmed that the engine is perfectly balanced when running, no misfires or anything like that. There is not a single issue while the car is running, it's purely a starting issue. Fuel economy is as good as ever, runs perfectly and the speedo rev counter are accurate. I've gone ahead and replaced both the camshaft and crankshaft sensors now but this hasn't helped at all and it's still happening. I'm confident it's nothing to do with the glow plugs (it started fine mostly during the winter) and the issue happens both during hot and cold. As in, the issue is so intermittent that it can occur after a two hour cruise on the motorway when you stop at a service station, or in the morning. It's seems unrelated to hot or cold ambient or engine temperatures and how long you've left it sitting does make a difference either. Wet or dry doesn't make a difference either. I'm all out of ideas and can't think what else could even begin to cause the issue. It appears to be electrical, but what else is involved in the starting process that could affect it? Any ideas / thoughts / experience of the same issue are all welcome! Just to be clear it's a 57 plate 2.0 TDCi Focus with around 70k on the clock. Thanks Rob
  12. Welcome to the Ford forums RobK :)