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ZetecShearer1987

FOC Supporters
  • Content count

    332
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About ZetecShearer1987

  • Rank
    Feet Under The Table
  • Birthday 11/12/1987

Contact Methods

  • First Name
    Daniel

Profile Information

  • Gender*
    Male
  • Ford Model
    mk3 Focus 1.6 Ecoboost 180bhp Zetec S
  • Ford Year
    2012
  • UK/Ireland Location
    Staffordshire
  • Annual Mileage
    5001 to 10,000
  • Interests
    Motorsport & Racing
    Entertainment
    Computers & Electronics
    Sports & Leisure

Previous Fields

  • Location
    Burton-on-Trent

Recent Profile Visitors

2,068 profile views
  1. Just a pig to get to it, can't clean the throttle body attached to the car as its not easily accessible. Need to ideally remove it first but don't want to damage anything in the process
  2. Hi how easy is it to remove a throttle body on the 1.6 ecoboost engine (situated at the front of the engine near the radiator) and clean it. Anyone got any clear instructions on how to remove it from the engine
  3. Anyone know any of these fault codes that are appearing after driving a 20 miles round trip. ive tried to look up the codes online but I'm not entirely sure what they mean can anyone check these for me and tell me what they exactly are
  4. Im at a loss then as thats the only other thing the garage can change to see if it cures the running issues. Theyve checked the car numerous times and the problem seems unfixable
  5. Just checked on that link it does say my car came with a 60amp 650 cca, my current one is a 60 amp 590 cca can that cause issues as the cold crank is lower
  6. Hi Everyone Right, how do i start to try and explain this, As most people are aware on this forum that i have been having issues with my car, in terms of a poor idle, loss of power etc. Its been to my local auto electrician numerous times for diagnostics and checks. They have spend hours and hours trying to find the problem with the car. When they first had the car i made them aware that a new battery was fitted by ford so that shouldnt be the issue. So today the garage gave me a ring saying the battery is not correct for the car even though ford say only this battery is available. The Ford battery is a efb 60amp 590 crank. But when the lads showed me 5 other websites with my car registration inserted the battery that came up everytime was 75amp 730 crank which is more powerful. VARTA... YUASA AND EXIDE direct on there websites state the correct fitment should be that (75amp 730) and not ford's recommended one (60amp 590) Also halfords and eurocarparts also show the 75amp 730 crank battery. So because they think the battery is to small, that is causing my problems. I rang tc harrisons who stood by the battery size of 60amp 590. any help please
  7. I have no idea how to find the correct fuse, what do I need to look for, the sensors are a complete waste of time and money. The rear ones are helpful but the front ones are crap
  8. Erm ..... The problem is back😪 Ran sweet as a nut for a day and the same old crap has returned. one thing I have noticed, the front parking sensors that were fitted by the main dealer when I brought the car seem to have broken again. They were fixed under warranty 2 weeks ago as half of them were faulty and beeping all the time. They have been ok until today when they have started beeping randomly again and the button next to my gear stick keeps flickering. So it's gonna have to go back again to be fixed. im wondering if they are shorting out and causing these other issues. ive had nothing but trouble from these front parking sensors since owning the car and I've never used them as they have never worked correctly. Can I get ford to remove them as they are s**t.
  9. Alternator was changed today by a local independent auto electrition who fully diagnosed the fault. All I had to pay was 49 quid diagnostics and the warranty cover the 370 alternator. Went back to my local ford and told me nothing was wrong in the first place, they said the garage who changed the alternator was wrong and that wasn't the fault. I made a right scene as they still don't accept anything was wrong with my car. anyway new alternator was fitted and the vibrations have gone and the car runs great.
  10. I may have misheard, he could have said pcm. They reckon they know what it is anyway so it's a relief that it will get sorted and no more hassle with trying to find out what it is
  11. I have finally had the issue found and is being fixed on Tuesday, it's the alternator. had a local specialist check it and he found only 7v was coming from the back of the alternator into the bcm. so this was the reason the car has been running crap and he also said the battery wasn't being charged either. ive got warranty cover so should be a free fix
  12. This was recorded this morning. The car was horribly rough and the cabin was vibrating like the engine was going to stall. As you can see and hear the whiring noise gets worse when the car is struggling and the voltage from the alternator to the battery was stuck around 11.9v at idle even when revving the car. Also the car feels so flat when its like this, no whoosh from the engine. when the car runs normal you get an engine whooosh which the air mixture and blow off. There is also no power when you put your foot down either feels awful to drive
  13. Completely random, was dog rough this afternoon. Then tonight the car felt a lot better on way home from work, pulled well and I could here the turbo whistle. i have a feeling it's the alternator, went to a specialist last week who thought after a test there was a possible alternator issue but couldn't pin point if it was the alternator or the smart charge of something linked to it. Ford had had it before that and said everything was OK
  14. I've not no. as you look at the engine the left hand side there is a low whiring noise.
  15. Only hobbles at idle sometimes, but when it does the power is down to