Mr_Spock

Budding Enthusiast
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About Mr_Spock

  • Rank
    Settling In Well

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  • First Name
    Tom

Profile Information

  • Gender*
    Male
  • Ford Model
    Ford Focus 1.6 Petrol Hatch
  • Ford Year
    2005
  • UK/Ireland Location
    Other/NonUK
  • Annual Mileage
    0 to 5000

Previous Fields

  • Location
    Norway

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  1. Just read this thred and have a few comments. There are two different ways to drive speakers in the car - with or without an external amp. As mentioned earlier - you only have up to max 25W per channel (2 channel driven) in the cd-player - at best. If you choose not to use en external amp, you have to look for a speaker set that are built for this. You can check for parameters like impedance and sensitivity - where low impedance and high sensitivity will give an easily driven speaker. But luckily this type of speakers are often marked as "High Efficiency Systems" og "High Sensitivity" - so they are not hard to find. Focals and Gladen are brands that are known for having types of easily driven speakers - others have too. I am about to replace the original speakers in my daughters first car, a Peugeot 206 (whats wrong with Ford??). I am gonna put in Gladen M-165 (6,5" with tweeters and crossovers) these are specially built for use without an external amp. Going to use my old Pioneer DEH-4200SD cd-player to feed them. They come highly recommended by a couple of "car-stereo-guys" i have chatted with. I will hopefully have the job done in a couple of weeks - can leave an impression then.
  2. That is great! Focal are on top of my list if I upgrade the fronts in the future.
  3. Missed these questions about ignition on and live + to the head unit. I used the 12V Ignition (switched) that controlled the old head unit - to the new. And the new 6mm2 cable is a constant 12V +. I made a new 12 negative connection to the head unit - using a more solid cable and connected it to a good connection point behind the head unit in the dash somewhere. I don't think there much difference in SQ by turning the internal amps off - but it's a nice nerd feature :) I think the Pioneer DEH-PRS80's better quality dac and electronic components overall - are more significant in SQ. And further it's wide tuning abilities. The only thing missing - is that the equalizer should be parametric.
  4. Thanks Lenny :) I installed a dashcam - used a 12V relay - switching by the ignition/stereo + , controlling the 12V socket in front of the gear stick: Camera behind the rear-view mirror:
  5. I installed an usb interface some time ago: Perfect fit, got it from Ebay. The cd-player have 2 usb connections on the back side - used on of these. Just had the timing belt and the front shock absorbers replaced - the Focus have around 90k km (55k miles?) on the meter.
  6. Good to read that I am not the only oldtimer who likes good sound quality in the car - I'm 52 :) You are so right about todays stereo components - compared to those back in the old days. Your plans sound great.
  7. Thank you for positive responses. There are a lot of solutions I used, just because I had the cable and it was easy to do. I am a big fan of overdoing things :) The stereo install still works perfectly. Lately I have been using som time to manually adjusting sound parameters to get an more even frequency respons - mostly in the lower frequencys. It makes a huge improvement. I used the UMIK-1 usb microphone from MiniDSP: http://www.minidsp.com/products/acoustic-measurement/umik-1 and using the REW free software: http://www.roomeqwizard.com/ With these on a laptop you have very good and easy to use tool.
  8. You have good arguments - I do not disagree. Thinking only money and SQ - Class AB would be preferable. But in a car with stock electrical system - Class AB delivering 40% of its power consumption in to the heatsink. Voltage drop could compromise sound quality. For me this is a bigger concern - than the difference in SQ between Class AB and Class D. I can not hear the difference - not at home - and probably not in the car. But maybe, as you wrote - using Class D for sub and Class AB for the front set - is the best choice - a good comprimise of cost, voltage drop and SQ?
  9. I beleive THD less than 1% on the Kappa 4 - means 0,05% : http://eu.infinitysystems.com/infinity-product-detail-eu/kappa-four.html As for the Class AB vs Class D, at home in a very good listening environment - maybe you are right. Class A - for sure. Still - I own a Pioneer home cinema receiver, with class D - and I beleive it collected top results in every review I have read. And I like it too :) In a car - with lot of roadnoise etc - and perhaps playing mp3's - spotify - I do not believe it would be an hearable improvement using class AB over class D.
  10. Looks like a good deal on the Kappa :) The Kappa Perfect 6.1 are rated at 100W nom. and 400W max. power handling, with a sensitivity of 90 dB.
  11. No issues, cheap (£270 in Norway), delivers great power without getting hot, small and easy to install, looks great. Sounds great with my Infinity Kappa component speakers. I mainly choose the Kappa amplifiers, because I use Kappa speakers in the car (and the specs) - and I have been very pleased with the choise. But I would surely been happy with another brand too. good luck on your amplifier hunt :)
  12. Hi , Hassen, your setup looks great. Great Work I agree with FOCA's advices. But I think class D are totally ok in the listening envirement of a car. Think voltage drop are a bigger concern - class D delivers more power, using less current. Choosing SQ - active crossovers with time-alignment sure will improve. The prefab sub looks great. Love the pictures - fun to watch your progress.
  13. It is the same type as these: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ford-Focus-2005-On-MK2-MK2-5-Front-Door-6-5-17CM-Car-Speaker-Adaptor-Brackets/171220347689?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222003%26algo%3DSIC.FIT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20646%26meid%3D5715432260365445874%26pid%3D100005%26prg%3D9210%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D290383158666&rt=nc You may find them cheaper, if you search around a little.