Big Bob

Budding Enthusiast
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About Big Bob

  • Rank
    Settling In Well

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Profile Information

  • Gender*
    Male
  • Ford Model
    04 Fusion 3 1.4 Durashift
  • UK/Ireland Location
    Cheshire
  1. Sorry I've taken so long to reply, finding the fault was more luck then anything else. I just noticed the broken wire inside the conduit at the join where the wires from the actuators meet the main harness low down in front of the g/box. The conduit on mine is open at the joins which is an obvious weak point. I had been trying to find a decent (understandable) wiring diagram without success. But I have some experience of data links from HGV work & they are a source of problems. Data links are fairly obvious as they are always twisted pairs of wires to reduce interference. Be careful when testing as they run on variable low voltage signals, if you put full voltage down them it can damage ECU's. I would recommend stripping off the conduit & inspect visually, you could also pull the wires to see if they spring which means the wire is broken inside the insulation. Sorry again that I can't be more helpful than this. Hope you find your fault.
  2. I have recently had increasing problems with the gears not changing, not starting, stalling at lights etc, with the transmission warning light on. The only info I could find was a suggestion that the gear change actuators may be seizing, so I removed & stripped these. There was nothing wrong with them, but on refitting them the fault had worsened to the point that the car would not turn over just the warning light on all the time. The fault was a broken data link wire inside the conduit going down the front of the gearbox at the point where it separates to the two actuators and the ECU/clutch pack. A cheap and easy fix once I found it, certainly worth looking for if you have gear problems on these cars. I hope this will be of help to others. Cheers
  3. It was indeed the coil pack and she's running sweetly again thank you all for you input.
  4. Thanks for the quick response, is there any way to check the coil pack or is it a swap it & see?
  5. Hi folks, I have a bit of a misfire on my 04 Fusion 1.4 petrol. It feels like a spark plug but I've replaced them a couple of months ago. I've done the dash board thing & got a DTC d262. I've googled the code but every link seems to give a different response, [none give a cure] Ranging from #1 injector to message not received to the code means nothing at all. Does any one know, or have had this code & then actually cured the fault. Your help would be greatly appreciated. TIA Rob
  6. Got you now, just me jumping to the wrong end of the stick.
  7. Sorry to side track from the topic but I noticed on your drawing you have n/s o/s the wrong way around [assuming right hand drive veh] which is a common mistake :( also can cause confusion with left hand drive vehicles. May be better to refer to Left & Right as seated in the drivers seat. Otherwise the drawings look pretty good ;)
  8. Sounds similar to how mine was, I fitted a second hand door lock assembly [off ebay] which cured the problem. The job is a bit fiddly, especially getting the unit in and out of the door, but not too difficult.
  9. While you're at it, on other forums you can have the first few words of the post appears when you hover over the title, giving you an idea what the post is actually about, saves opening stuff you aren't interested in. Any chance of that on here Thanks to all who help to run the forum.
  10. Depends on the amount of bind, as the springs will overcome a small amount of bind allowing the brake to come off but the free side will apply more easily, giving the reported fault of one side coming on slightly before the other
  11. I would have thought more likely to be hand brake cable starting to seize on one side. But if it locks wouldn't worry too much.
  12. As you say it could be almost anything, but I had a similar fault on my Focus which was the ball joint on the anti roll bar link arm. With the car over a pit & someone bouncing the car it was quite easy to find. [iknow we don't all have access to a pit] Prices for a replacement varied from over £100 for a pair to less than £15 for one so it pays to shop around [i got mine off eBay]
  13. Thanks for the replies, you're not very impressed are you. I may have to start looking elsewhere then.
  14. There are different types of brake squeal, pedal creaking, brake squeaks when pedal is pressed, prolonged squeal as the car is slowing, intermittant eek eek eek as you are driving along. I assume you mean the prolonged squeal as you are braking, which can be due to dry rusty backing plates on the pads, the usual first fix for me is to remove the brake pads & clean them up, then apply a thin smear of copper grease to the back of the pads & to the contact points on the edge of the metal backing plate. MAKE SURE NO GREASE GETS ONTO THE FACE OF THE PAD. Power washing will remove any lube already there & may cause the caliper to sieze later on, so I would not advise excessive power washing of the brakes, you may also force water into the wheel bearings.
  15. Hi, I'm thinking of upgrading my Focus estate auto to a second hand C Max auto, probably next year sometime. My question is about the CVT, was the C-Max ever fitted with a conventional auto or are they all CVT, and are there any reliability / drivability issues either way? We have a Focus with a conventional auto & a Fusion with durashift. We both prefer the Focus to drive but the Fusion is more economical, any feed back on the C-Max would be welcome. Thanks