@_@

Budding Enthusiast
  • Content count

    9
  • Joined

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About @_@

  • Rank
    Newbie

Contact Methods

  • First Name
    Rouge

Profile Information

  • Ford Model
    2004 Ford Focus 1.6 Zetec
  • Ford Year
    2004
  • UK/Ireland Location
    Cheshire
  • Annual Mileage
    0 to 5000
  1. Update: Carefully undid the other side and found out its this http://i.imgur.com/xwiRSFO.jpg http://i.imgur.com/rzJoeWJ.jpg If anyone knows where i can get them, let me know. If not i'll head to a scrap yard and pull a few bits off a car :D
  2. http://i.imgur.com/PqVFYCE.jpg http://i.imgur.com/KC43QmQ.jpg http://i.imgur.com/OnFYQlK.jpg Where can i get a fixing to secure that one side of the trim piece. On the other side theres two metal push in clips. But on this side theres a plastic 'screw' thing that obviously pushes and snaps into something fixed to the hole in picture 3. Can anyone shed any light on what that fixing is, and where i can get one, or what i could use to fix and secure that trim piece ?. http://www.clipsandfasteners.com/Ford_Clips_And_Fasteners_s/63.htm Ive looked through this, cant find anything that looks anything like it does the job. Checked on ebay and theres nothing i can see.
  3. Ford Focus MK1, 2005 reg (built 04/inbetween model). 3 Door. On the back seat theres a double buckle, the rear driver side and middle seat. Then a single buckle, rear passenger side. This is sticking, and getting to the point when its pushed in it wont spring out. I've oiled it, and tried to get it springing again but its just not. Theres loads of the double buckles on ebay, but i cant find a single one ? Can the double ones be taken apart ? Thanks (Update: After searching about it appears you need to remove the entire seat because that seat buckle is built into the seat.Cant say im over moon with the MOT due in a couple of weeks.)
  4. Ive just been faffing about with it. I started the car from idle, left it running for 10 minutes or so. I started to squeeze the coolant pipes, coolant would flow into the expansion tank each time i did it. The revs and engine seemed to slow down to a normal level very quickly. The radiator was cold, where the thick pipes (top and bottom) enter the radiator they were also cold for probably two hand widths down the pipes, but then quite warm beyond that. Can we read anything into this ? Or is this quite normal ? I suppose i would need to drive the car for a while to find out if the radiator and pipes near it are getting warm as well. But if rev the car whilst idle, the coolant does flow into the expansion tank, so would this rule out an airlock ? When i just turn the key over without starting, the engine and oil lights come on but disappear when i start the engine.
  5. Sorry for the delay in replying. Here are some updates. Starting the car from cold. It takes roughly 3 and half minutes for the temperature needle to centralise. Revs start around 1200 and slowly come down to around 500. When i first got the car, revs were practically nothing and the temperature gauge centralised very quickly. I took it to a garage, they told me its a crack in the head gasket or cylinder head. There are no signs besides over heating. There was power loss and juddering once, however i read in the hayes manual there is a fail safe cooling system. So the engine will run on two cylinders, and restrict revs. Could this be the cause for apparent power loss, and juddering ?. They quoted me VAT + 600 for the head gasket, and 200+ for the cylinder head too. Quite frankly im not paying that, and unsure if thats the real issue. I can have the head gasket fitted for practically nothing, however i am reluctant to change it if its not necessary of course. I took it back to the place i bought it from. Quite naturally they are reluctant to do anything with it, dragging their heals. And insist its an electrical problem rather than head gasket. They insist if it was a head gasket, the coolant would be !Removed! out, temperature gauge would be constantly red, very rough engine etc. To be fair they have a point i suppose, because i havent really experienced any of this apart from periodic red temp gauge, engine loss of power and juddering once, although the engine revs from cold and general sounds whilst running idle doesnt seem perfect. They are persistent with saying its a sensor or electrical problem, and almost completely discount the head gasket/cylinder head. Firstly i just want to clear something up. In the hayes manual, they phrase 'cylinder head sensor'.... However looking at parts websites, it appears to be phrased 'Coolant temperature sensor'. I cant find cylinder head sensor on any part sites for my car. Are these the same thing termed differently ?, or does my car have a coolant temp sensor, and a cylinder head sensor. The coolant temp sensor on the websites are identical to the old 'cylinder head sensor' that has been replaced. http://www.gsfcarparts.com/929fo0280 This is the part that was replaced, so the cylinder head sensor and coolant sensor are either exactly the same or theres two. The ford part numbers match as well. In regard to the fan. I have a single fan twin speed. http://www.mister-auto.co.uk/en/radiator-fan/bolk-bol-c021076_g508_a999BOL-C021076.html This by the looks of it. After driving and coming to a stop, the fan seems unusually loud, maybe this is due to sensors or signals telling it the engine is hot. When starting from cold, the fan does not start, i tried what people suggested: turning the aircon on and seeing if the fan comes on, and it does. I have not tested via battery method yet, which i assume forces it to run at top speed, and if it doesnot its broke. But the fan does appear to run at full speed because when coming to a stop after driving its extremely loud. The coolant appears to be circulating well, when you go up the revs, the flow increases. The pressure in the expansion tank doesnt seem to be all that great, however im not losing coolant. What can i try from here ? Any suggestions ? Is there anymore sensors i can change ? Anything electrical ? Should i take it to another garage for a second opinion ? Would it be worth doing diagnostics again, if its a head gasket diagnostics wont register it though ?. The fan does appear to work ? So is there any point replacing it. Thanks
  6. Thanks for all the advice, i really appreciate it. Ive just come back from a ford dealer, and they reckon its not a fan/motor/connector issue, they said theyve not even done one or ordered one. He said check for an airlock. Im not ignoring anyone but seeing as a few have responded im kinda replying to you all here. Its a single fan twin speed i think. I let the engine tick over around 2 revs for 5 minutes, i didnt see the fan kick in, the temperature gauge didn't change though ?. Should i rev at a higher level ?
  7. 2004 1.6 Ford Focus Zetec. 43k Miles. On prolonged/consistent speeds of 40-70mph the temperature gauge will go to the red. When i come off the accelerator or come to a stop the temperature gauge will go back to the centre. On this particular day the weather was hot and the aircon was on near full (If this is relevant). All fluid levels are fine and there has not been any drop. Replaced: Water pump, thermostat, head sensor (?). I've been advised now to replace the 'fan cowling resistor/sensor'. ..... I know details are vague but ask and ill try to answer if you need more details. Do you think this will fix it, other than a blockage in radiator what else could it be. I have read that the fan cowling sensor wiring can become damaged and he fan will kick in when the temperature is in red, but i dont know for sure if i have this problem (The car is not with me at the moment). How do i find a fan cowling resistor/sensor for this model ? Im finding it pretty difficult. Is it called something else ?. Ive heard that Ford only stock the whole thing rather than parts. Any advice is very welcome.
  8. http://i.imgur.com/qFD7KAP.jpg http://i.imgur.com/WkGmHym.jpg http://i.imgur.com/NY0Bek5.jpg (Excuse the reflection in one of them :D) The scrape is on the passenger side wheel arch. There is a very slight dent, so slight im not remotely concerned about sorting it out unless necessary. At the start of each scrape it looks as if its gone down to the metal, its a spot, then it fades off and the rest of the scrape is white. Ive also got a couple of rust spots where the paint has bubbled a bit on the doorwell, so i might as well sort them out at the same time. Ive seen the panther black ford touch up kit, and wondering if i used it, along with a product like turtle wax colour magic and waxed on top whether this would provide adequate protection, and satisfactory results ?. Is the area too big for a touch up kit ? I would rather avoid rubbing down the whole section, priming and spraying but if its unavoidable then theres not a lot of choice i have is there. If this was yours, how would you go about repairing it ? (Go into detail step by step, and products you'd use). Thanks a lot :)
  9. Welcome to the Ford forums @_@ :)