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About philp1863

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  • Ford Model
    focus TDDI
  • Ford Year
  • UK/Ireland Location
  • Annual Mileage
    10,001 to 15,000
  1. Hi, I have a 2001 Diesel TDDI ford hatchback focus. Its been a brilliant car, but age is beginning to tell on it. MOT coming up and I am sure there will be a list of problems with that. For example the exhaust looks a little bit worse for ware and I suspect that the mechanic will put a screw-driver through the rear exhaust box (the original exhaust of the car, so I cant really complain). So I thought that I would search on line for a new exhaust. I immediately got very confused because I was given a choice between a 1.8 Turbo Di/TDDi and 1.8 Di/TDDi. I thought that the T stood for Turbo whats the difference between these two options?
  2. Hi everyone I managed to get hold of a second hand tow bar off ebay. I have fitted it to my wife's 2005 fiesta and am now building myself up to do the electrics. When I bought the tow bar I was also given a TEM1A Audible Monitor unit, which I also intend to use. About 10 years ago I added a tow bar to my focus which is still going strong today. I used the snap-on connectors for the electrics. I have got some blue snap on connectors, but from reading some of the forums I figured that perhaps I should use some bullet connectors this time (with a crimping tool). But to be honest I am really not sure which color to use blue or red. The wires look quite thin. When fitting the electrics of a tow bar using bullet connectors....which color is normally used by the professionals to do the connections? I appreciate that the snap on connectors come in blues and red as well. With the focus I seem to remember using blue snapons. Also I have not got any wiring diagrams, but I think, hopefully it is fairly straight forward? Most of the connections are simply splicing into the cables feeding the lights at the back of the car. Could I just confirm a few things 1. If I use bullet connectors I hope to put two cables into one side of the bullet connector with the third cable coming from the other side?..i.e. I dont really want to use double bullet connectors. Any reason why I should not do this? 2. Is it important that I connect both sides of the lights up i.e. right side and left side to the right side and left looms at the back of the car.....or could I simply drive them both off of the same one? I have not looked at the looms at the back of the fiesta yet, and may well find that its easier to join them separately anyway. but thought I would ask just in case. Any thoughts welcome Thanks
  3. My wife's 2005 fiesta has a broken arm under the drivers seat that is used to move the seat forwards and backwards. I am looking out for a replacement from the local car scrap dealer. I assume that this lower broken part of the seat is separate from the cloth seats themselves. I took the seat out and undid two bolts on the base and this separated the base of the seat from the rest of the seat. Easy... Half done!!! It still left the back of the seat connected to the broken base. I am assuming that I can also remove the back by removing the plastic covers on the side of the seats (one of the sides has a wheel that rotates the back of the seat forwards and backwards) Again I assume that this wheel will pull off? Should I then be-able to also remove the seat back from the broken base? Sorry to say I chickened out of trying to do this with our seat in case I broke something else. Is it as simple as the above, or is there more to it? It would just be nice to know if I can achieve this before I visit the scrap yard. Thanks for your help
  4. Thanks James Its very tight to get an ordinary socket onto the nut. Tomorrow I will try and get hold of a 1/4 inch socket which is a bit longer then the one I have got. The one I have got wont go over the nut with the rachet on it. It would help I think if I could get the blue & red connector off of the might give me more room then?? I think that it could be even worse putting the problem nut back on when I also have the clutch pedal in as well. I will give it a go, and if all fails i will have to try and get a mobile mechanic in. I will let you know what happens tomorrow provided I can get a longer socket. Thanks
  5. Hi everyone A few weeks ago the white push rod snapped on my ford focus. The main reason was because the spot weld on the clutch pedal had failed and the push rod was forced sideways and snapped off. The AA man managed to do a temporary fix on the side of the road. He said that I would need to get the pedal re-welded which is what I did this morning. I was hoping naively that i would be-able to get the welded pedal back in place fairly easily.. :( I failed; I could not get enough room to get the plastic plunger to push onto the pedal!!! So I thought that I would try and undo the 4 nuts securing the pedals to the floor. Three of the nuts are easy to get at, the fourth upper -left hand nut I cant get a spanner on. Can anyone tell me how I can easily get at that nut to remove it. I dont know if it will help me but I also thought that I would try and remove the blue/red connector (what ever that is) but could not get it off???? . Should it twist off anti-clockwise or is there some other way of getting it off? I'm not sure if this will let me gain access to the nut anyway? I know that I could be the lack of tools, but I think that it is probably more likely lack of knowledge and hands that are not deleterious enough. Please see the attachment for a picture of my predicament. Any suggestions or help most welcome Thank you!!!!
  6. Hi folks I know that this problem has been covered in other threads, but I am not sure how to fix the problem in my case. My problem stated when the clutch plinger arm snapped off (unfortunately I was 120 miles from home when this happened). I had to join the AA and was very very grateful that the AA man managed to get the car going again by changing what I think is the master cylinder which sits near the pedals. To get at it he had to remove both the brake and clutch pedals from the car. Unfortunately I have just found out that my brake lights are now on permanently. The brake pedal is no longer making contact with the switch....probably about 5-10mm gap. The lights go out when I press the switch plunger a few mm down, but the pedal does not even reach the switch plunger. I have tried pulling the switch plunger up...and it is as high as it will go. Something has obviously changed after the AA man did his fix. But what I do not know. Is this adjustable? Or have I got some incompatibility of parts?? The AA man checked the reg before getting the part. I cant see anything obvious to adjust. The only way I can think of fixing this problem is to get a bit of sticky foam and sticking that to the brake pedal plate so that it will now make contact. This is not ideal, but it should work. Any ideas or any other thoughts. Thanks for reading this.
  7. Hi guys First of all I would like to say a big thank you for responding to my query!!! :D In my case I have only replaced the one spring and it has passed the MOT. Up to now I have not noticed any change in the driving of the car. I tend to drive it fairly carefully anyway, but it seems no different then before the spring was changed. Having said that I am off to York this week and will be coming back with lots of gear in the boot...and so I will certainly look out for any changes in the road handling. If I notice anything very different I will change the other spring too!! When I changed the wishbone I did set the height using a bar that I made up. But of course that was before I put the anti-roll bar back probably should do that after!!! Anyway I shall see how it goes!!!! If I find that it drives badly back from York I will change the other spring and update the forum. The old Escort was so much easier!!!!!! Thanks again for your help
  8. I have a 2001 Ford Focus. Unfortunately it failed its MOT last week. One of the problems was a rear coil spring needed replacing. I've already replaced the front springs and thought that the rear ones would probably be easier. I tried following my Haynes manual which to be honest was not very helpful (I think that it was probably the first version). It turned into a little bit of a nightmare. My coil compression tool would not work (not enough room). You probably need to buy special compression tools to get on the springs? Anyway this did not daunt me as my Haynes manual confidently told me to remove the lower wishbone arm...of course you have to first remove the anti-roll bar (I think thats what it called). I discovered that the bolts on the wishbone were solid inside the grommets, I had to cut them out...took me ages!!!! I then bought a new wishbone and fitted all back together. Its now passed the MOT. :D However the manual I have got was not very helpful. I set the design height with the spring removed and tightened up the top bolt of the wishbone. However I did not have the anti-roll bar fitted...I would not be able to get the spring in with the anti-roll bar in place; as my compression tools would not work. I think that the anti-roll bar is probably not now tensioned correctly? For a 2001 Ford Focus it seems to drive well, but should I be worrying about this design height setting? Could it be dangerous? Might it cause the rear tires to wear badly? Should I look into buying some spring compression tools that will do the job and redoing the design height, or should I just be happy that the car has passed its MOT and move on? Thanks for reading this
  9. Hi wase16II Thank you very much for your post. I now understand where the hole is and have successfully removed the crankshaft pulley. Thanks very much again.
  10. I am trying to change the cam belt on a 2005 1.4 TDCi fiesta. The Haynes manual (2002 to 2005) I have says The manual has a picture, but unfortunately, its not very helpful (to me anyway). I have no clue where this hole is. Could anyone tell me whereabouts this hole is, or even better give me a link to picture or diagram. The car is jacked up, but there is not a lot of room under the car, and I would like very much to have an idea as to where the hole is. I've googled this, but just cant find any info. I dont actually understand what it means by the right hand face of the engine block casting. Its probably one of these things that when I know where it is...its obvious!!! Thanks
  11. Hi everyone, I am wondering if anyone can give me some tips and advice regarding my wifes Ford Fiesta. The car went for its MOT last March and failed because it was leaking from several of its injectors. I found out that this is a common problem with these engines. Originally the garage quoted a finger in the air figure of 70 quid to have the injectors fixed (I was very surprised about how low that quote was) and was not surprised when the final bill was closer to 300 quid(including the MOT). I still think that was probably fairly cheap. We had been with this garage for years, but have now decided to move on, they have made a couple of major mistakes recently. At the time of this work I was quite busy, but they told my wife that the injectors had been leaking for quite a while and had covered quite a bit of the engine with this very hard stuff (Sorry I dont know what it is called) and that if it did start freeing off then it could interfere with other running parts of the engine possibly including the cam belt. I thought that the cam belt would be far enough away, but dont know...and all this information came from my wife who is even less of a mechanic then I am. They also showed my wife the engines cam belt which apparently had some strange marks on it, like curved lines going down the outside of the cam belt. They said that they had never seen these marks before on a cam belt and said that they thought that the belt should be replaced. I've always and still do consider that the garage is an honest one, so I believe that the garage was doing the best it could for us (I think!) Anyway I now have some time and want to sort the engine out myself. From what I can gather it sounds like I need to replace the cam belt and possibly try and remove all this gumph from the engine. The car has only done 33000 miles. Questions Has anyone ever heard of these strange marks on the belt, the mechanic definitely though that the belt was not like that when it was new...something has happened to it since. My wife is still driving the car (as little as possible). It sounds like I need to change that belt ASAP? I presume that I need to remove this gumph from the engine (I presume that it may have even been related to the cam belt state in the first place). Will it be a hammer and chissle job, or is there any other clever way of removing this stuff from the engine? Any comments much appreciated Thanks
  12. Hi everyone I just thought that I should spend a few moments letting everyone know how I got on in the end. I'm not a mechanic, but I like to have a go at things if I can. Thanks to everyone above who gave there help and comments. It took me about 6 days to do the job, but most of the time was spent by me trying to guess the best way forward to overcome problems/issues that I had (I dont know any mechanics that I can ask). The car is now sorted and is running well and all now looks good :D. I thought that I would quickly list the problems that I had in case someone else wants to have a go and come across the same problems I did. I found the Haynes manual very good...I tryed to follow it exactly, although I did read other notices about how to install the new cambelt with the correct tension. Before I did this job, my main concern was around getting the tension correct on the new cambelt. The first problem I came across was how to locate and remove the blanking bolt in order to put the TDC pin in. With the alternator there (even with the auxillary belt pulley removed) I could not get my hands in to feel where this bolt was and I was concerned that I would not be able to put the bolt back or lose it completely (drops down and lodges itself somewhere). My philosophy through out the job, was to always feel that I could at worst put the car back together if I just could not do something. So in my case I also took the alternator right out, which made life a lot easier for me, I could now put my hand in and feel the bolt head fairly easily and remove it with confidence. Now I would probably have a go with alternator in place, knowing full well that if I had a problem I would simply remove the alternator anyway. Having said that I did not find removing the alternator easy...The top bolt was a little difficult to get at (using a apanner, my sockets would not go on it) just needs patience. I spent a day thinking about whether to proceed because the top bolt does not have room to come out completely, it was not until after I removed it that I discovered that the top alternator support has a channel cut into it to allow the bolt to slide out. Not knowing this and the fact that the alternator was tightly fixed in and there not being much room I was a little worried about using a bar and gently levering the alternator out. As soon as it came free I felt much more confident (although putting back at the end of the job was also not my case just patience). The second problem was sods law... I removed the right hand engine mount. I needed to remove one of the studs in order to get the cover off. The stud I was not bothered about coming out, came out with the bolt, the one I needed to get out was seized solid. Hence this topic. I heated it, I used release oil, I used an impact screwdriver, I could not get it to budge...I probably spent two days thinking about this and discussing it with people at Halfords. I actually broke the torx top off of the stud,( luckily not badly enough to render it unusable) In the end I very simply used a hot knife and cut a little rectangle from the cover and slid the cover out over the stud. It was so easy!!! After everything was put back together I had an 1/2 inch by 1 inch hole that I covered using some black plastic from another engine cover and glued it over the hole. It might not have been what a garage would do, but it worked perfectly for me. Interestingly when I looked at the old cambelt, it did not look bad at all. The car has done 90000 miles and is 12 years old, and yet that cambelt looked like it could have gone for a lot longer!!! On the other hand the auxiliary belt looked a little worse for wear (it looked like it was beginning to perish). I had to do three attempts to tension the new belt up before I could get it to settle at the right tension, I just hope it stays at that tension. I'm off to York in it next Wednesday, so I hope that it behaves itself. Again thanks for every-bodies help. my next job is now going to be my wifes fiesta. Thanks again
  13. Hi artscot79 Thanks, yes I am replacing the belt and the tension-er. Having said that I have hit a bit of a problem with this stud that I need to remove. The stud that I was not particularily bothered about coming out came out with no problem. The one I need to get off in order to take the cover off wont budge. I've bashed it, heated it and it wont move. Unfortunately the torx part of the stud has now broken off...oh boy. Bad day!!!! So I now have to make some choices and I would really appreciate other peoples thoughts. Tonight I will put some easing oil on it and leave overnight, and apply a few times tomorrow and use two nuts tightened together to try and see if the stud will shift. I think probably not.... but got to try. Failing that then I could 1. Put a stud remover on and completely rip the thread in the hope that the extra force might shift it...dont really want to do that because if the stud breaks or refuses to come out then i'm in real trouble. 2. I dont know about this, and this is where I really would like someone who knows about the TDDI engine. A great solution for me would be to remove the engine support from the looks like it might only be three bolts holding it on to the right of the engine...but that just seems too easy, and I cant easily tell if there are any other inaccessible ones. I asked a chap at Halfords that used to work at Ford (although in the commercial part) and he said that he believes that there are only the three bolts...but he was not 100% sure. The Haynes manual does not help me here. Tomorrow I might try and free them, just in case that works, I just hope that they are not doing anything else.....does anyone know? 3. Not nice, but simply cut a hole in the cam belt cover to slip the cover over the annoying stud and use arrildite to mend the cover after I have changed the belt. The broken stud is still useable for the engine mount. Thanks again to everyone for there input
  14. Thanks STEAD & dezwez I have bought the special timing tools used for the Focus. I first located TDC using the TDC pin. I then locked the cam shaft using the flat bar. I then removed the starter and put the special locking tool to lock the flywheel. So hopefully nothing will move!!!??? The only slightly worrying thing was that the bar that locks the cam shaft slid 95% in (at TDC)by hand, but was not easy to get in the last 5%. It would go if I tapped it in, but loath to do that. But I have tripple checked that the engine is at TDC. When turning the crank I could here it tapping the TDC pin, so we are talking a very very tiny amount assuming that that is normal? Anyway today I am hoping to change the belt with everything locked in place. STEAD you have scared me a bit, but I think that I am ok....I'm following the HAYNES manual....eek!!! Gulp!!! Thanks again for your help
  15. Thanks Dezwez, I have taken your advice and bought a set of eight female torx sockets for £6 (including postage) online(cant complain about that). I intend to start dismantling the focus engine on Monday to do the cam-belt. . I hope to get the torx set on Tuesday to take the stud out.. Thanks for taking the time to replay.