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About pky

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    0 to 5000

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  1. I've has 2 power steering leaks in two years. Both in different places. One was the same as the one described in this thread and the other this week at the fluid reservoir. TO sort this latest leak, I've sorted it by removing and reseating the two hoses and replacing the two spring clamps with two screw type hose clamps. The leak has stopped for now! Here's an online version of fordcat for parts numbers/diagrams etc Parts catalogue for power steering Remapping your engine is pointless (is it possible?) due to the fact it's naturally aspired and ti-vct. There are guides around somewhere about updating your ECU to a later revision but that's not something I can help with.
  2. I know opinions and A-holes and all that but I'd rank the 4 different tyre brands/models on longevity, grip etc as follows. 1= Dunlop bluresponse sport 1= Goodyear efficient grip 2= Pirelli Cinturato P7 3= Avon ZV7 (noisy, lasted 15000 ish with rotation.) I do 30,000 a year plus and with rotation the Goodyears last a full 12 months 2 years running. I do mostly motorway and don't drive like a loon on the twisters so I cannot confirm or deny soft sidewall problems.
  3. Remember to use the original ford orings the part number is on that thread I linked to. I had one leaking. Replace both orings and both collars as if ones gone the other might go sooner rather than later. i ordered 4 orings (2 spare took them back) and two collars/clamp (part 1454337) . I took it to a garage to do and they did it in half hour or so.
  4. This thread will help you. Give you an idea where to look and see if it is that.
  5. Mine is an 05 build and has metal to the bulkhead then rubber inside to the matrix. It's a common fault that the 'o'rings fail at the joint behind the pedals. Had this 2 months ago, if you search the forum you will find all the info you need on a thread or two.
  6. If you need to replace the shoes or drums, my advice is to go with oem parts. Way back when I bought cheap shoes and they where so badly made I had to replace them within 6 months. Buy rubbish, buy twice!
  7. I had faults that I thought was due to a cluster fault. Engine surging at idle, engine management fault, all sorts of different codes. Was the battery. Could be a long shot, but worth a go. In regards to the o2 sensor, maybe if that sensor keeps playing up its affecting something else. Without codes or someone who is experienced observing live data when it's going wrong it's hard to say.
  8. Your car is the 1.6 ti-vct 115. It has 2 cats and 4 o2 sensors. 2 pre and 2 post cat. Bank 2 Position 2 is located passenger side post cat. If this sensor is not operating correctly it'll throw the engine management light BUT shouldn't send you into limp mode. If it was pre cat position 1, you'd expect limp mode, bad running etc. Since you've had the cluster done, I guess you can discount that. If it was me I'd get the condition of the battery checked. Knackered batteries cause all sorts of fault codes. Most garages or halfords will check it for free.
  9. I might be teaching you to suck eggs but have you loosed the nut to the top of the bolt at the handbrake gator?
  10. Glad you got it sorted hopefully!
  11. Any chance the battery is knackered? I had PATS error codes, codes that my car had been stolen, low system voltage and engine malfunction fault. I thought it might be a cluster fault. I changed the battery and that sorted it. 3 years and no problems. Get your battery checked, you never know.
  12. As Arthur says make sure they do everything he's listed. Heading towards another 100,000 miles since mine was done. So hopefully you'll have a good motor for as long as you need. Glad you got it sorted and good luck with the wedding.
  13. I think you'll end up with the result you want, a car that works. If you've got a pc with Bluetooth or go buy a USB Bluetooth adaptor you could give forscan a go.
  14. This bloke you're dealing with would make my blood boil in 2 seconds. Suggesting you're having buyer remorse and looking for problems. Just keep to the facts and do not be swayed. He's sold you a car with a pre existing fault which ultimately could render the car unusable if not fixed and to boot the EML light that's there to indicate such things is not operating. I'd insist on a Ford specialist like you are planning now. I have never used the torque app but is it as specific as Forscan? If you look at my previous post where I had posted up my error report. Does torque give you a similar description of the fault? My error code with Forscan wasDTC P000A-E1. If I'd read it with torque at the time would it have been as specific or would it have shown as just P000a?
  15. You know, that's something I always presumed would cause it to fail. Cheers for that.