pky

Members via FB
  • Content count

    69
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About pky

  • Rank
    Settling In Well

Contact Methods

  • First Name
    andy

Profile Information

  • Ford Model
    1.6
  • Ford Year
    2005
  • UK/Ireland Location
    Durham
  • Annual Mileage
    0 to 5000
  1. I took a mk2 06 1.6 vct (vct fixed at 100,000) to 225,000 miles. Stuff I had to fix in 3 years and 125,000 miles. clutch handbrake; new shoes, cables, drums, adjusters. coolant leak at the join as it enters the cabin. binding brake calliper. wheel bearing. new pads and discs. 3x power steering leak; union nut etc twice. Once it was leaking at the reservoir. aircon leak, never fixed it. bonnet lock! leaking from vent flap and spoiler bolts into the boot. boot button. rust was starting to bubble on the rear arches when we parted. Soon learnt how to persevere and fix things myself. Just check out the basics and hopefully you'll be lucky and find on that'll last you as long as needed. Good luck.
  2. I think you need to go back and check out the self adjusters again. Excellent info from Isetta above. I'd maybe suggest a mobile mechanic, it'd be a 15 min job for them, not much money. Better to get it adjusted correctly.
  3. Going from what owners of the 1.6 in the MK2 have said on this forum; the PSA 1.6 diesel needs to be nursed if you want it to last. So more frequent oil changes. Put me off looking at them that's for sure.
  4. 6-7 year old 1.6 diesel Focus with 60000 miles. Roughly 10,000 miles a year. Probably around town. DPF. 3 letters that personally (just my personal opinion) which would make me look elsewhere.
  5. If it's not the fuse box. Search the forum for 'cluster faults' and I'd get your battery checked. All 3 can cause all sorts of warnings, odd behaviour etc
  6. I've enjoyed reading something positive about the 1.6 tdci's. When I was looking for something new, after reading how much they needed nursing I discounted looking at them. Everything will last if you look after it. I can report that after a week that my grandad-wagon is quite good fun. One fun fact is on the Yeti forum I think I might be the youngest at 36 . It's begging for a remap though. For a weekend I had a borrowed tuning box on and that was fun! If you see a Yeti travelling faster than say 46 MPH then wave because it's probably me.
  7. The 1.6 ti manifold splits cylinder 1&4 and 2&3 (i think that's the order) into two separate cats. And then out the back. 2 post and 2 pre o2 sensors so would have to contend with that. I fitted a BM Cataylists manifold that cost £180ish (cheapest I found from buycarspares.co.uk - was sent direct from BM Catalysts) vs Ford £4-500 part price. It was working fine when I got rid of my car after 20,000 miles of this being fitted.
  8. Today's the day my faithful friend is going to the big scrap pile in the sky. After 220,000, the day has come. After another power steering leak amongst some other issues it had to end. Never left me stranded! Now driving a '14 Skoda Yeti 2.0 tdi 170. Quicker than the old girl by nature and handles well enough but just not the same. Just want to say thank you for everyone's help on this forum. Great resource and kept me on the road on a limited budget and improved my knowledge no end. I'll be back!
  9. If you're getting under the car to remove them, why not just buy some big repair washers and undo the nuts (13mm?) and fix them back on. I'm sure plenty have removed them and had no issues long term though.
  10. Hi, If your coolant gauge is sitting at 60 when driving and perhaps rising when in staionary traffic then I'd say the thermostat needs changing. Had the same symptoms and that fixed it. The thermostat comes with the housing in an all in one. You probably can replace the thermostat inside it but I replaced just it with this from eurocarparts. The mythical one is here: Recirculation valve/ Solenoid Part no: 1223988 I had a fault code relating to this part, so replaced it after finding one at a scrappy for £5.
  11. Previously it's been recommended on this forum for the washers use Di-electric Grease AKA Silicone Grease. Can also use it on your ignition leads in the future. Link for it in Maplin. Might get it cheaper elsewhere. Boot leak. Could be light clusters, spoiler bolt holes, the airflow flaps above the wheel arches - only accessible fafter removing the bumper. The roof rack strips leak as well. Get a hose pipe and a mate with you in a stripped out boot to find the leak or take everything out and seal it up with silicone sealant.
  12. I once couldnt have quite seated the brake pad retaining wire clippymebob after a Pad change and intermittently it'd click click click, then be fine then start again. I thought about it then replaced them and that sorted it. Long shot maybe!
  13. The collar/clamps are ford part number 1454337. make sure it's not leaking as the washers are known to fail and !Removed! your coolant into the footwell and that's no fun. search the forum for coolant leak in the footwell.
  14. I've has 2 power steering leaks in two years. Both in different places. One was the same as the one described in this thread and the other this week at the fluid reservoir. TO sort this latest leak, I've sorted it by removing and reseating the two hoses and replacing the two spring clamps with two screw type hose clamps. The leak has stopped for now! Here's an online version of fordcat for parts numbers/diagrams etc Parts catalogue for power steering Remapping your engine is pointless (is it possible?) due to the fact it's naturally aspired and ti-vct. There are guides around somewhere about updating your ECU to a later revision but that's not something I can help with.
  15. I know opinions and A-holes and all that but I'd rank the 4 different tyre brands/models on longevity, grip etc as follows. 1= Dunlop bluresponse sport 1= Goodyear efficient grip 2= Pirelli Cinturato P7 3= Avon ZV7 (noisy, lasted 15000 ish with rotation.) I do 30,000 a year plus and with rotation the Goodyears last a full 12 months 2 years running. I do mostly motorway and don't drive like a loon on the twisters so I cannot confirm or deny soft sidewall problems.