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pky

FOC Supporters
  • Content count

    64
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About pky

  • Rank
    Settling In Well
  • Birthday

Contact Methods

  • First Name
    andy

Profile Information

  • Ford Model
    1.6
  • Ford Year
    2005
  • UK/Ireland Location
    Durham
  • Annual Mileage
    0 to 5000
  1. I've enjoyed reading something positive about the 1.6 tdci's. When I was looking for something new, after reading how much they needed nursing I discounted looking at them. Everything will last if you look after it. I can report that after a week that my grandad-wagon is quite good fun. One fun fact is on the Yeti forum I think I might be the youngest at 36 . It's begging for a remap though. For a weekend I had a borrowed tuning box on and that was fun! If you see a Yeti travelling faster than say 46 MPH then wave because it's probably me.
  2. The 1.6 ti manifold splits cylinder 1&4 and 2&3 (i think that's the order) into two separate cats. And then out the back. 2 post and 2 pre o2 sensors so would have to contend with that. I fitted a BM Cataylists manifold that cost £180ish (cheapest I found from buycarspares.co.uk - was sent direct from BM Catalysts) vs Ford £4-500 part price. It was working fine when I got rid of my car after 20,000 miles of this being fitted.
  3. Today's the day my faithful friend is going to the big scrap pile in the sky. After 220,000, the day has come. After another power steering leak amongst some other issues it had to end. Never left me stranded! Now driving a '14 Skoda Yeti 2.0 tdi 170. Quicker than the old girl by nature and handles well enough but just not the same. Just want to say thank you for everyone's help on this forum. Great resource and kept me on the road on a limited budget and improved my knowledge no end. I'll be back!
  4. If you're getting under the car to remove them, why not just buy some big repair washers and undo the nuts (13mm?) and fix them back on. I'm sure plenty have removed them and had no issues long term though.
  5. Hi, If your coolant gauge is sitting at 60 when driving and perhaps rising when in staionary traffic then I'd say the thermostat needs changing. Had the same symptoms and that fixed it. The thermostat comes with the housing in an all in one. You probably can replace the thermostat inside it but I replaced just it with this from eurocarparts. The mythical one is here: Recirculation valve/ Solenoid Part no: 1223988 I had a fault code relating to this part, so replaced it after finding one at a scrappy for £5.
  6. Previously it's been recommended on this forum for the washers use Di-electric Grease AKA Silicone Grease. Can also use it on your ignition leads in the future. Link for it in Maplin. Might get it cheaper elsewhere. Boot leak. Could be light clusters, spoiler bolt holes, the airflow flaps above the wheel arches - only accessible fafter removing the bumper. The roof rack strips leak as well. Get a hose pipe and a mate with you in a stripped out boot to find the leak or take everything out and seal it up with silicone sealant.
  7. I once couldnt have quite seated the brake pad retaining wire clippymebob after a Pad change and intermittently it'd click click click, then be fine then start again. I thought about it then replaced them and that sorted it. Long shot maybe!
  8. The collar/clamps are ford part number 1454337. make sure it's not leaking as the washers are known to fail and !Removed! your coolant into the footwell and that's no fun. search the forum for coolant leak in the footwell.
  9. I've has 2 power steering leaks in two years. Both in different places. One was the same as the one described in this thread and the other this week at the fluid reservoir. TO sort this latest leak, I've sorted it by removing and reseating the two hoses and replacing the two spring clamps with two screw type hose clamps. The leak has stopped for now! Here's an online version of fordcat for parts numbers/diagrams etc Parts catalogue for power steering Remapping your engine is pointless (is it possible?) due to the fact it's naturally aspired and ti-vct. There are guides around somewhere about updating your ECU to a later revision but that's not something I can help with.
  10. I know opinions and A-holes and all that but I'd rank the 4 different tyre brands/models on longevity, grip etc as follows. 1= Dunlop bluresponse sport 1= Goodyear efficient grip 2= Pirelli Cinturato P7 3= Avon ZV7 (noisy, lasted 15000 ish with rotation.) I do 30,000 a year plus and with rotation the Goodyears last a full 12 months 2 years running. I do mostly motorway and don't drive like a loon on the twisters so I cannot confirm or deny soft sidewall problems.
  11. Remember to use the original ford orings the part number is on that thread I linked to. I had one leaking. Replace both orings and both collars as if ones gone the other might go sooner rather than later. i ordered 4 orings (2 spare took them back) and two collars/clamp (part 1454337) . I took it to a garage to do and they did it in half hour or so.
  12. http://www.fordownersclub.com/forums/topic/49712-mk2-16-focus-overheating/ This thread will help you. Give you an idea where to look and see if it is that.
  13. Mine is an 05 build and has metal to the bulkhead then rubber inside to the matrix. It's a common fault that the 'o'rings fail at the joint behind the pedals. Had this 2 months ago, if you search the forum you will find all the info you need on a thread or two.
  14. If you need to replace the shoes or drums, my advice is to go with oem parts. Way back when I bought cheap shoes and they where so badly made I had to replace them within 6 months. Buy rubbish, buy twice!
  15. I had faults that I thought was due to a cluster fault. Engine surging at idle, engine management fault, all sorts of different codes. Was the battery. Could be a long shot, but worth a go. In regards to the o2 sensor, maybe if that sensor keeps playing up its affecting something else. Without codes or someone who is experienced observing live data when it's going wrong it's hard to say.