AdBlock Warning

Parts of this website do not function properly with AdBlock enabled on your device. To get the best user experience on our website, please disable Adblock for this website (domain) on your browser.


True Ford Enthusiast
  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About sonic113

  • Rank
    Ford Focus Mk2.5 Zetec

Contact Methods

  • First Name

Profile Information

  • Gender*
  • Ford Model
    Ford Focus 1.6 Zetec Mk2.5
  • Ford Year
  • UK/Ireland Location
  • Annual Mileage
    10,001 to 15,000
  • Interests
    Classic Cars
    General Automotive
    Motorsport & Racing
    Car Restoration
    Car Modification
    Road Trips
    Food & Drink
    Computers & Electronics
    Arts & Crafts
    Sports & Leisure
    Health & Beauty

Previous Fields

  • Location
    Ford Focus
  1. yeah pete I thought so myself. I think id be mad not to get this at that price to be honest. the part numbers match and if the markings are the same as yours then I think i will get and just wait for it to come. according to fordparts uk the 1780142 Kit Includes:.1778516 Water Pump & Gasket.1672144 Timing Belt Kit (contains Tensioner and Bolt) you wouldnt have any part numbers to hand just to see what if they match yours? I think they will be 100% but just checking.
  2. Pete thats pretty good price, I rechecked at two different branches today and the price was the same on so maybe prices went up im not sure, @Steph123 stefan, Yes i will order from local ford two new cam bolts and a new crank bolt as well. I looked online with the part number I got from for for the timing kit and cam across these three listings: 1) Ford Genuine Timing belt kit 1780142 Link 1 2) Ford Genuine Timing belt kit 1780142 Link 2 3) Gates Timing belt kit KP1566PXS (replaces 1780142) Link 3 they all look like the parst I require and a lot less than what ford where charging me for them, what you think yourself? I was thinking of buying the one from LINK 1 then getting the crank bolt/2 cam bolts and then I should have all to start the job.
  3. Hey Stefan finally getting around to buying the belt it for the car, I priced with ford this AM and quoted me £126.73+vat foir the belt kit anf then £91.71+vat for the water pump. I think the guy made a balls up though as I asked for the part Numbers and when I looked them up even on ford parts uk the pump seems to be included in that kit. The parts Numbers he give me are: Timing Belt Kit 1780142 Water Pump 1778516 I think the TB kit includes the water pump. what else do I need for this? I think a new crank bolt and two crank pulley bolts as well or do we reuse the old ones? Thanks
  4. As mine needs a regas any would you recommend just removing the hose completly before i do the timign tbelt/water pump and the replace the hose after thats all fitted? Then go for the regas. or just not dropping the engine too musch to strech the pipe.
  5. Ronald J Thats good information there, Im due to install a timing belt/waterpump kit in the coming weeks and also then to get a full regass on the AC so I will be sure to watch out for that pipe when installing the belt.
  6. Thanks Clive, it's for the father inlaws car, he had "Misplaced" (reversed into something more likley) his one, I will look on ebay but more or likly have to give it a wee paint. Thanks again,
  7. Does anyoen know the part Number for the rear bumber Towing Eye cap on the 2010 cmax its a 1.6 zetec moondust silver? Thanks
  8. Is the car defiantly not showing any signs of overheating at all? Check round the hose connections and the thermostat housing in case it's drawing air in but I would run it idle for about 20min with no cap on just to clear any air out and see what it does.
  9. It very strange indeed. I myself would expect to see a loss in coolant if teh headgasket was gone and to see the car overheat as well but as you say when its driving it going great so im not so sure its the head gasket. Is the coolant nice and clean? This is a presurised system so there will aslways be a little bit of pressure in it but the collant cap may be faulty as it should vent pressure out over time to keep the collant system working correctly. check this and even let the car idle for about 20 min with thw cap of to see if it clears any air in the system. It very confusing that this could be linked tothe starting issue especially when there is no collant loss at all, but i would try that and also clean the throttle body as well as it can do nothing but help.
  10. Yes they if they are all set and wroking correctly and trhe engine is in good shape then the tips of the plugs will have a greyish/cleanish look to them. I say if they look clean then they are all 100% but new plugs will also help. another thing I would do is take the throttle bottle of and give it a good clean. Its easy enough to do just the large intake pipe at front attached via dupliyclip and then for the TB its one elctrical clip and 4 toqx screws. see how it goes and keep us updated.
  11. Im not convinced myself that the collant pressure thing is the source fo the starting issue. I take it there is no overheating problems with the car? Are the plugs on good conditrion and gapped correctly? I think ots 1.3mm from top of my head. also when you removed the do they look Normal at the ends or are they oily or wet or anything? its a strange issue alright but its sound like something minor as I would of thought if it was a major issue the car would not run great when it does start. is there any error codes coming up or anything and when you tryed the new crank sensor did you reset all codes?
  12. Thats a strange one alright. The oil in the plugs would not of helped but make sure that the oil level is up where it should be as low oil pressure can cause the car to constantly turn over as far as I know. The expansion tank pressure is a new one to me , I dont think it could have any thing dorectly linked to the car not starting but make sure the is no leaks and no air in the coolant system and also that the thermostat is working as should be. Another long shot to check is the immobilisor and the key make sure the key is not damaged or the likes even of you have a spare one try it out for a bit as it could the immobilisor could be picking it up ok one minute and not the next. an important area I would say to make sure 100% is working is the battery. Now i know its sounds basic but the ford system has to use the silver calcium type battery. I only came across an starting issue like this once before in a fiesta when the battery was tested 100% and was holding charge ect but the electrical system was playing up with all different types and signs of errors. After a battery swap to test/elminate that being the issue it actually solved the issue completely, the battery was the correct type and seemd to be holding charge but it must of been playing up under load so a new batteyr solved it. It may be worth a check. and also to clean all terminals ect just to be on the safe side.
  13. Has the fuel pressure been checked as it sound like maybe the fuel pump could be low pressure or maybe the gauze could be clogged a little. Stick some redex in the system regulary for a while and also before starting the car turn the ignition on (dont start the car) until you hear the fuel pump prime itself. then turn it of and repeat this again. On the 3rd attempt after the fuel pump prime sound turn the key all the way and see if it starts up straight away. I have seen this issue in the 1.6 zetec petrol engine before and a good few runs with clean fuel with redex or the likes added and the iginiotion system is is good shape as well as the plugs seemed to help and cure bad starting so we put it down to just letting the car run too low on fuel too many times that it maybe took dirt up to the fuel pump which in theory reduces the fuel pressure so can cause the car not to start on the first turn. It might be worth a try anyway.
  14. Hi have you made sure that the plugs are clean and gapped correctly? also that the ignition leads are all secure? Does this only happen on a cold start up? And if its been driving 100% warmed up when you stop it does it start ok again or do you get this issue?
  15. It could be but I honestly doutb it as these switches have little springs which keeps the tension on them so for them to click just when turning would be a suprise ot me. are you 100% sure its not any parts of the plastic trim ect clicking or moving? also would it be possible to get a video clip to hear the click sound as it may help pinpoint it.?