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pullark

Budding Enthusiast
  • Content count

    17
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About pullark

  • Rank
    Member

Contact Methods

  • First Name
    Kevin

Profile Information

  • Ford Model
    Ka Mk 1
  • Ford Year
    2001
  • UK/Ireland Location
    Other/NonUK
  • Annual Mileage
    0 to 5000
  1. Hi. I have a 2001 Ford KA with 1.3 Endura engine. The car has a weird problem that I can't get to the bottom of. Symptoms ...starts easily and idles smoothly. Soon as throttle applied engine shakes and runs rough (running on 2-3 cylinders?). After a few seconds (after taking foot off throttle)engine returns to smooth idle. Also I hear a kind of clicking noise coming from the thermosat area (but don't see any relay there).Have fitted new thermostat by the way. This noise eventually disappears as the engine gets warmer. When the engine warms up (quite hot) the problem seems to go away PROVIDED I have interior heater fan on setting 3 or 4. With fan off or on setting 1 or 2 the motor runs rough then returns to smooth idle. Engine fan is kicking in but at quite high temp. Thought I would replace coolant sensor for a start but not confident this will solve the problem. What is the relationship of internal heater fan with the running of the engine? Somehow turning this fan on to high setting seems to settle the engine down. Should I be looking at relays as well?
  2. Hi, I have 2001 Ka which is acting strangely. Car starts easily and idles fine. As soon as give it some throttle it feels like it's missing. When I take my foot of the throttle it runs rough and almost stalls then after a few seconds settles back into normal idle. However if I have the air conditioning switched on the car runs perfectly. Normally having the air conditioning running would put extra strain on the engine but in my case it actually improves running. I would like to get to the bottom of this issue. I'm thinking it could be something to do with the aircon relay but really not sure. Car has good fuel pressure, new coilpack and leads etc. I think it's fine mechanically but is clearly suffering from a weird electrical gremlin. Has anyone experienced these symptoms? Any thoughts about a fix? Cheers Kevin
  3. Thanks for the advice Delboy. OK, so it's not just a matter of installing a replacement ECU. When you say remap I assume this means the new ECU needs to communicate with the ignition key and also turn off the immobiliser? Would I need to take the key and ECU to a ford dealer/stealer or are there other options? Cheers
  4. Hi All, I have a 2001 Ford Ka with 1.3 Endura engine. I think I may have a faulty ECU. Can I replace the ECU unit only (from the same model) without having to change transponders etc? Hope someone out there knows something about this. Cheers
  5. Hi All, I have a 2001 Ka with 1.3 Endura engine. I cannot get it to run properly. Symptoms = starts and idles fine but soon as I take off it loses power and sounds like it's running on 2 or 3 cylinders. Very occasionally it runs OK for a few seconds. No fault codes showing. I have taken it to a local mechanic who has all the diagnostics gear and he says ignition and fuel pressure fine. Good even compression ..valve clearances checked. Exhaust analysis indicates it's running lean. I've replaced plugs, leads and coilpack (aftermarket). Checked hoses and filters. Also had injectors checked and cleaned..perfect. Have tried different ICV, throttle body, O2 sensor and throttle position sensor.. .... no change. Mechanic has named it the devil Ka because he cannot explain why it won't run properly. The car has done 101k and is in very good condition so I think worth (within reason) sorting but cannot believe how difficult it is to fix it. Mechanic thinks maybe ECU itself is faulty? I have some questions around the ECU and would appreciate some feedback from those in the know.... Can I get ECU tested to see if it is operating as it should? As an alternative can I get another ECU from a car wrecker and slot that in without any drama? Is the ECU standard across all Endura powered Kas? Do I have to get new key and transponder to make the replacement ECU work in my Ka? Any other suggestions about how I can get the bas***d running 100% would be very welcome.
  6. Hi, Posted here last year re trouble starting my KA. Car had previously had bad leak out of thermostat housing. Previous owner blamed wife claiming the head was probably cracked.I removed head ...perfect. Checked ignition, fuel system, timing.... all good. I was stumped. Just recently got to the bottom of it. Removed oxy sensor and car started albeit running rough. My conclusion is that coolant had made its way into CC and badly corroded and blocked it. Seems like o2 sensor telling ECU "don't allow engine to start as exhaust gases have nowhere to go". So now I need a new CC. my questions.... What are my chances that a secondhand CC that will do the job? Is there anything which will indicate visually that CC is OK (or not OK)? Are there any other Ford models which used this particular CC? Ford KA thin on the ground here in Oz and Ford new part is ridiculously expensive. Look forward to hearing your views. Cheers
  7. I decided to have another crack at my troublesome car over the weekend. Bought a spark tester and result was that it has a strong spark on all cylinders when tester set with gap at about 8 mm. However the spark was orange/yellow. I would have expected to see a blue spark but maybe that's not the case with a coilpack? I'm at the point where I think I need to take the car to someone who has good diagnostic equipment. If I have a fuel pressure problem for example, is this something a diagnostic device that reads real time data would pick up? it's hassle to get the car to a garage so I just want to ensure the time and money involved would be worth it. Cheers Kevin
  8. latest update in the saga..... I managed to get components off another motor which I heard running perfectly. Changed over throttle body, position sensor, MPA sensor , ICV. Did these one by one. Result ...absolutely no change. So i think I've eliminated these possible causes. Next step will be spark test. If this is OK then..... fuel pressure regulator (how do you test this?) and injectors. This is beginning to !Removed! me off but I will get to the bottom of it. Cheers
  9. Thanks again Tony for your extensive advice on troubleshooting. I'm sure this information will be valuable to others on this forum in the future. It will be a couple of days before I can get to the car to do the latest battery of tests. Have a couple of questions arising from your last message. You say tests on sensors should be carried out with plugs connected which makes sense. Does this mean I need pierce the wire to get a reading or can I somehow get in the back of the plug connector? Don't want to damage anything in the process. I see when reading various posts that coil pack seems to be a frequent problem. Is it possible that the coil pack is breaking down after initially getting power to the plugs? Looks like a betch to get at, maybe need to jack the car up and get at it from underneath? Cheers Kevin
  10. Hi Tony, Tried what you suggested. No change really. It is just on the verge of starting but does seem to be over-fuelling as you suggest. Sounds slightly healthier with foot flat on the pedal. I took out MAP sensor and it was clean but I guess it's impossible to tell if it is OK with only visual inspection . There is no hose attached to it, just a 4 pin electrical connector. How can I test it? If it had failed would there not be a fault code showing? I have a Memoscan U480 fault code reader. I don't think this is a high tech device but it does recognize correct protocol for this car's ECU. Cost $35 on Ebay.
  11. Hi Tony, Thanks for your advice. I tried what you suggested and I found that with the fuse removed the motor did run for a few more seconds after a couple of turnovers but then died. I then replaced the fuse and it wouldn't start. Sounds really close and some smoke coming out of the exhaust but the little furker won't go. Still stumped I'm afraid.
  12. Hi All, I have a starting problem with my 2001 Ka (1.3 Endura engine). I'm hoping there's a diagnostics guru out there who can point me in the right direction. Symptoms When I turn on the car it will fire up for a few seconds and then die. Does not respond to throttle. Sounds like it's running on all cylinders. If I try again it will not fire. What I've done so far New fuel filter, new air filter. New spark plugs. Checked ICV looks OK. All hoses on manifold in good apparent condition. Have also checked for fault codes with scanner. No faults showing. Engine light not on. When I scroll through MIL Menu it says O2S and HO2S "not ready". Is this abnormal? It seems to me there is some kind of fuelling problem but where to start? Hope someone can give me a lead to next steps. Cheers
  13. Hi, Still tryin to get my 2001 ka running. Starts momentarily then dies??? Haynes manual troubleshooting suggests vacuum leak on manifold or ignition coil breakdown. Checked ICV ..looks Ok not carboned up. O ring seals on ICV look a bit dodgy..will replace these. Have replaced plugs and fuel filter. Pump sounds OK (runs for a couple of seconds when key turned). My questions are... What are likely sources of vacuum leak? Can I test coil pack by taking out plug and then attaching to lead and holding a couple of mm off engine block to see if spark arcs to block? I know this works with traditional ignition (coil + distributor) but just want to check that I won't damage coil pack or ECU using this test on the Ka. As always your help is appreciated. Cheers
  14. Hi, The existing NGK plugs look a bit average so I thought I'd replace them. Was rather gobsmacked when I discovered these plugs are $20 each here in Oz. Seems a bit odd that a low tech and low performance motor should require such expensive performance plugs. They are long life plug but that's not such a great thing if they're left in the head for too long in 1.3 Endura . Has anyone tried a less expensive alternative with the same heat rating etc as the NGK PTR5D? Is there some technical reason why this motor needs these high spec plugs? Look forward to the wisdom. Cheers
  15. Hi, Just thought I'd update you on head removal job. I lifted the head off and have taken it to be tested for cracking and if OK will get it skimmed and put it back on. What a !Removed! of a job... I cannot see how you can undo the bottom bolts on the inlet manifold if working from above the engine. I undid various electrical connectors and then rotated head 90 degrees to get the manifold bolts out. This engine is really shoe-horned into the car. Headbolts were incredibly tight. Really had to lean on a bar to crack them. Plugs all came out OK so that was good. One thing I can't work out is how to get the vaccum line out of the manifold or alternatively the brake booster. Normally these can be prised/wiggled out of their fitting but on this car the thing won't budge. Does anyone know how these are removed on the Endura E engine? I want to refit the manifold to the head on the bench before I reattach the head back onto the engine block. The vacuum hose is now the only thing securing the manifold to the engine bay. Your thoughts would be appreciated.