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Duncsuk

Budding Enthusiast
  • Content count

    6
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Duncsuk

  • Rank
    Newbie

Contact Methods

  • First Name
    Duncan

Profile Information

  • Ford Model
    Focus 1.6L Auto Estate
  • Ford Year
    2008
  • UK/Ireland Location
    Dorset
  • Annual Mileage
    5001 to 10,000
  1. Thanks for the update. I did start to suspect that relay. Real pain it's part of the GEM. I guess to prove the theory, if, when the doors are locked, I disconnect the wire between the GEM (relay) to the door and temporarily connect it to 12V (which is what is the relay provides during unlocking) and then try to 'unlock' with the remote, it should open. Does that make sense ? I'm assuming that when unlocking the car by key, the GEM relay (for the driver's door) is not used as such ? TIA
  2. Thanks for the reply. Unfortunately, I think the connector you mention is the one buried in the door pillar .. but you give me the idea to try and trace along from that one ? Will check out page 105 too. The one I'm referring to is shown below (and as you can see all wires are BK !!) although only 9 wires are used.
  3. Unfortunately, the central locking is playing up. Everything works perfectly except the driver's door 'unlock' when using the remote. The door can be unlocked using the key and can be unlocked (assuming the deadlock is not on) from the inside. I have checked fuses, checked for broken wires (nothing obvious) as well as removing the door panel. As I mentioned, everything else works fine. It seems it is not possible to pull out the connector (of the door wiring loom) hidden within the door frame without removing the door, so before I do that, I wanted to check that, when applying the appropriate signal (+12V ?, earth ?) to the relevant unlock wire of the loom, the door lock actuator was indeed ok (suggesting a broken wire/ poor contact somewhere else). But, the loom that runs from the door connector (hidden in the pillar) to the lock actuator plug in the door itself, which has nine wires (6 lighter gauge, 3 heavier), are ALL COLOURED BLACK !!!!! What's all that about ??? Anyway, I can access the 10 way plug in the door so can track back the nine wires and identify them, if I knew the pin configuration of this actuator module plug/connector itself ? Can anyone help ? TIA ....
  4. Thanks .. I'm not aware of any changes of mounts .. but as the car came from a 'Fred in the Shed' dealer, who knows. Nothing mentioned in the service history. I've read elsewhere that when the car is idling, the 'clever' control module is forever trying to find the lowest emissions position, by constantly tweaking the engine settings to a point where the engine is almost stalling .. in other words, the vibration is 'normal' .. but could be made worse inside the cabin, if the engine mount rubbers are indeed a bit too 'hard'. It also seems the Mk2 Focus (being heavier perhaps) is rather gutless compared to the equivalent Mk1 .. which is indeed my feeling too.
  5. Hi, I recently 'upgraded' our trusty year 2000 Focus Estate 1.6 Auto for a newer model .. a 58 plate 1.6 Petrol Auto Estate (32K miles). Whilst the new car is indeed a more pleasurable drive, I do find it less 'sporty' than the old one .. but as I use it for running about town, I'm happy to accept the improved fuel economy :) over acceleration. The only niggle I have is that the car 'vibrates' when idling/stationary (both in neutral and in drive). I can feel this through the steering wheel, which is annoying .. and can 'see' the vibration in the side mirror(s). Problem is that, as far as I can tell, it is not possible to adjust the idle speed ... everything is now in the hands of the engine management system (EMS) .. but I'm convinced just a small increase would improve matters, as when I switch on the airco, the expected increase in RPM (though hardly measurable on the rev counter) seems to the reduce the vibration problem (though this may be just coincidence). I believe the idle speed is set by the EMS based on inputs from various sensors. Does anyone know which sensors exactly ? .. so I can check they are okay .. or have any other ideas of things I can check which may be causing the idle speed to be slightly too low ? I've had the plugs out .. which look okay (and all 4 look similar). The car starts and drives fine. I've checked fault codes with my basic OBDII reader and none come up. TIA
  6. Welcome to the Ford forums Duncsuk :)