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About jimjamyaha

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    Settling In Well

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  • Ford Model
    Focus MK2 1.6 Ti VCT
  • Ford Year
  • UK/Ireland Location
  • Annual Mileage
    15,001 to 20,000

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  1. Hi @simcor - thanks for Googling for me. I did try do that - but my settings on my phone must have been set to UK or english only results as I got nothing. Doing it now from laptop getting the same results as you. Did indeed think it was an a/c related pipe. Myself and @Markb55 now have the same issue.... can't actually see where it should connect to fulfil it's draining function. Any replies appreciated - esp ones where someones had a look at their MK2 with A/C around the firewall/back of the engine.
  2. Hey - whilst cleaning near a leaking brake fluid reservoir I realised that a hose was present that was clipped in place (not to do with the brake system) but not connected to anything! Couldn't find any places where it would have been attached to. Looked up the product code on the hose - but could't find any matches. Any detective work appreciated - pics attached.
  3. Hey, A funny one this... been getting low MPGs at the moment... have been doing more city driving then before but dropping to 22.9 seems really low! Reset the ECU and after a successful mixed drive resulting in 38mpg it's been dropping ever since. No EMLs, checked VCT system all ok, all up to date and serviced well. Was possibly thinking coil pack and HT leads as last replaced around 70k (now on 144k). Any thoughts?
  4. Hey, Google carters ford Sheffield and you can use the form there.
  5. Hey - Have done a quick trawl of the forums but couldn't find a definite answer: Can those who have a Ti-VCT1.6 petrol MK2 Ford Focus possibly let me know what amperage your alternator is? Location would be on the alternator sticker, or for those techie a variable set in the ECU which can be read by ELMConfig. Trying to check I've had the right amperage one put in. Thanks!
  6. Just got this nugget from a local Ford Dealer (non-main). "The cam timing cannot be checked using ids only manualy,I doubt it will be out as there are two cam sensors and a crank sensor which would have picked it up and would not be running correctly.Quite often it is caused by the pulley being disturbed and we replace a few pulleys (usually inlet)to cure the rattle."
  7. Hi All, Had started getting an infrequent brake fluid warning light when going up hill or accelerating hard - which was getting more frequent. Had checked fluid level and it was in between min and max so though I'd have to shell out for a new reservoir, as the sensor was integrated into it (rather than just in the cap as per MK1 Focus) As a quick fix try though I'd top up the fluid to the max (which has actually sorted the problem) as whilst it had been checked for water-content and properties over the past 3 years hadn't actually been replaced. However, actually adding fluid on the MK2 focus seemed a pain as the reservoir was under the front windscreen cover. So I cut a small bottle in half and used this to funnel the fluid into the reservoir. Hope this is useful for anyone else who may have the same need. James.
  8. Update - since topping up the oil a bit further (was just under min mark) to the mid-point the variation has started rattling again on startup a bit more (but not as bad as before yet).
  9. Hey - odd one this. Today whilst driving around no rattling noise at all in going up hills at all. So tonight took it out after filling it up with Tesco momentum and still nothing no rattles or anything. I'm thinking: 1) Momentum might of made a difference - but noise had stopped before filling up with it later today - and it didn't make a difference when tried previously. 2) Only thing I can think of is temp has dropped massively today (down to 4c) - engine was all warmed up - but wondering if heat shields could be cooler/less exapnded? btw - checked using ELMConfig that car has been setup properly for 95RON fuel. Any further thoughts on the temp drop stopping the noise?
  10. So checked radiator. All solid. Checked brake lines heat shield. In one position seems like it could rattle so pulled it up to stop when tapped. Found something that had come loose from a fixing below the brake shield and checked other side which also came off in hand (see vid below). Not sure II could see to check manifold heat shield. Took it for a spin and noise still there around 2,000rpm flat out uphill in 3rd. Never there at that rpm in 3rd going down hill (I.e. not under load). Any advice for: 1) checking manifold heat shield 2) Securing whatever those 2 lines are
  11. Normally we've been running it on 95 standard stuff - but did treat it to some 99 with no improvement. I was thinking that it could be the variator - but it's always done it a little bit from new - and it's good to know that yours didn't do that when broken. Thanks for the suggestion to check the radiator and the manifold heat shield - will give these a check.
  12. Hi, Some funny symptoms on my 56 plate Mk2 Focus. It's always done this to some extent but seems to have got a lot worse in the past 2 years since the cambelt and the clutch were replaced. * Clicking/rattling sound when under engine load (going up hill or accelerating hard or with a heavy car) * Sound like it's either coming from the engine bay or from near the front of the car around the clutch area * Seems to happen mostly in 3rd and 4th and 5th gears when hitting above 2,000 rpm until about 4,000 when putting on a fair amount of gas. * Occasionally under these conditions get a much louder rhythmical clicking (which the video below shows), but normally is irregular and sounds mechanical/metal/clicking (can't seem to get this to show up on a video, but can hear inside the cabin). It is def not any under-car heat shield rattles (these are all checked and speedbolted) I think it could be the engine pinking, but have one eye on the either the clutch or some other aspect of the engine- is it even possible for the clutch to be clicking without slipping? What do people think - anything similar experienced?
  13. Hi Spiros, There has been one more rattle since I did the flush and refill (so I think the variator is still worn) but before it had started doing it every time. It was the first time under my car too. In the end I didn't jack it, just parked on the flat and slid underneath - as could only find sill jacking points and didn't want to ruin the suspension by using the wrong jack point on this. I have no experience with copper washers or replacement plugs (I'm sure other have)- I just used what was there, but replaced the o-ring seal. One thing to note was that I used a torque wrench to remove and refit the oil sump plug to 28nm (manual stated spec). You'll also want a rubber strap wrench to remove the oil filter (can be re-added by hand). I used the Wynns engine flush for petrol engines and let it idle for 20 minutes, then drained all the oil for 30 minutes after that. I'm still going to get the car timing checked on it's next major service (via Ford IDS software) just to check that nothing small is still amiss... still do find it odd that it happened after a cambelt change.
  14. Ah - yes sorry, see what you mean. Didn't mean to conflate the issue in the past post - Just thought Spiro's EML light issue could therefore be a timing issue - and that if this was the case then damage or other issues *could* have been done to the cam variations or other sections of the ti vct system, which would then be causing the startup rattle as a symptom. Or, of course could be a separate issue in its own right.
  15. Interesting you mention the oil - as my car has been using ford spec oil (whatever the 3 local dealers get in) for the past few years and have not had this problem until about 2 years ago - but it could be oil-system/gunk related as I seemed to have resolved it by cleaning the oil system and then adding high-spec but ford compliant oil to the system. I'm surprised that a new car would make this noise and be considered acceptable... I wouldn't touch it with a barge pole if it made this noise on startup. It certainly seems that most cases on this forum where this noise has occurred it has been sorted through sorting out a timing issue with the belt or by replacing a section of the overall ti vct system - i.e. it's a fault an not normal behaviour.