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About GlynnZS

  • Rank
    Feet Under The Table
  • Birthday 09/08/1984

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  • Ford Model
    Fiesta ST3
  • Ford Year
  • UK/Ireland Location
  • Annual Mileage
    5001 to 10,000

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  1. If the maf housings they have sent you is not the same diameter as the original one then it's for a different car, ZS maybe. For the maf sensor to get a correct reading on airflow it has to be inserted into a housing tube of the specific diameter that the ecu is calibrated to, so if you change the diameter you will need a new custom map that tells the ecu this.
  2. I'm away this weekend so can't take pics of the parts, but I've had problems with the light coming on and loss of power while coming up to the lakes, so I took the map off and it's fine. Weird coz I've had the map on since Sept with no issues. Both maf housings should be exactly the same diameter, so that is definitely your problem!
  3. My personal opinion is that any drl's that aren't oem look cheap and tacky
  4. I'm up for doing it soon, definitely don't need better weather!
  5. Poor Percy doesn't sound well at all! I'd ask at a Ford parts desk
  6. Sell it in the winter, they won't find out it's broke til summer
  7. Ahh yes, and they also say that particular induction kit can only be used with the 240map, and will throw errors up with the standard map, which supports that it might have a different diameter housing. Sounds similar to what Steve is experiencing in the other thread
  8. At these temperatures though I wouldn't have thought the car should get to the point where it needs the fan if the water pump is working. Does the car just start reading a high temp on the gauge or does it literally overheat and blow water everywhere? After what kind of driving? If it's overheating in this weather, regardless of whether the fan works or not, I would say something else is wrong also, as it should keep at the right temp just by circulating water
  9. I wouldn't have thought you would need the fan at the moment, or any you not in the UK? Your coolant level is dropping noticeably? Over what time period?
  10. After reading a bit further, it is just a different bluefin map. I might email superchips on Monday and see if I can get that map, as I have basically the same induction setup. If they will let me try it I'll let you know if it feels any quicker than it does now with the standard bluefin map
  11. Have you put any filter oil on the filter that could have been sucked through onto the sensor? The reason they will have given you a sock is incase the sensor got a bit damp from some moisture being sucked in to the filter. The only other thing I can think of would be if they had sent you the wrong diameter housing, that would definitely throw an error up. The fact it does it without the map rules the map out
  12. I don't think 0-60 times will be the best indicator as unless you have some super sticky tyres you can't put the power down in first. No matter what I do it lights up the tyres in first as soon as it gets a sniff of full throttle, even after clutch fully depressed. I've got to 130mph quite fast a few times, though I didn't feel as though it would get to 150, 145 maybe, 150 downhill! As said I think 240bhp is optimistic on a map and filter, I'd have thought you would need an intercooler to genuinely get that power
  13. That's weird. Does it come on after a while, then when you turn the engine off, same again, or does it stay on next time you start until you mess with the kit/take it off? Is there any play in the sensor once you stop after the light comes on?
  14. Heated seats on and Windows open is the best way to drive it, it sounds great. I have the mountune induction pipe that the induction kit connects to too, though not sure how much difference that makes to the noise as I did em both at the same time. Let me know how much faster it feels with the bluefin once you get chance to give it a proper drive hopefully without warning lights
  15. Mine didn't screw in properly, it's like they didn't thread the holes deep enough to screw the screws in, I had to bodge mine into place with cable ties after the screws stripped. But once the maf sensor was secure the car ran fine. Can't remember if it said service engine now when the maf was loose, but the engine wouldn't rev more than about 3k. I didn't drive it, but it would have been massively down on power. It's unfortunate I had to bodge it, and probably should have complained, but it's ran fine for a month, and I love it, the noises are great