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  1. This should be a continuation of this thread Agreed with iantt, and a thanks to his reply and/or update on this shouldn't be too much to ask/expect?
  2. Yep, that's correct.
  3. I think Smaxownersclub has a pictorial guide in their paid member's section, but not really sure.
  4. The DRLs are VERY expensive new - and are rare finds at the breakers. The DRLs require a different subloom that connects up to the main connector located below the OS headlight. Even if you did have the correct subloom in your car, you'd still need an IDS session or in the least, a config change via ELMConfig - but it still doesn't guarantee it'd work.
  5. You probablyaren't looking up high enough. Try lying on your back while peering up. The 3 multi-wired main connectors are a dead giveaway.
  6. The module location and description is as described in post #4. Apart from the sensors themselves, you need to inspect the connectors and wiring to them very carefully, as it's a known issue especially with the rear sensors. Remember that just a single fault renders the entire system unusable.
  7. As most of the DTCs are PCM related, I suggest checking the wiring to the module, including grounding points. Multiple DTCs almost always relate to an electrical supply or grounding issue.
  8. In the absence of any DTC information, which may help pinpoint an issue, I'd first check each wheel speed sensor and wiring carefully. The sensors are secured in place inboard of each hub with a single bolt, and require wheel removal for access. These sensors are fragile and aren't exactly cheap, so be gentle!
  9. GPS signals are weak. While paint may attenuate signal reception to a certain extent, especially metallic paint, there shouldn't be significant loss in reception unless the paint had been put on too thick, or multi-coated. Many OE shark fins are colour matched with no issues. I spraypainted mine on my own with OE touch-up spraypaint - again, no issue. As illogical as it may seem, I'd first do a battery reset - it's a procedure known to reset quite a few unexplained electrical glitches, but do it only if you have your HU code available. Moving on, what you might be able to do is remove the sharkfin and turn it upside-down or to its side, reconnect the FAKRA if there is sufficient slack in the cable and see if there is any improvement. If there is, then the paint could possibly be the culprit. If you have a spare generic GPS antenna, try connecting it up temporarily to the FAKRA to see if there is improvement - if not, you may have to investigate upstream of the FAKRA.
  10. It's possible, but I doubt it's due to the paint. It's more likely they had ether forgotten to plug the Fakra connector back or hadn't hooked it up properly.
  11. The sensor comes in 2 parts. The housing/shroud and the sensor itself. You'd need to first separate the two. The sensor locks in place in the shroud via tabs - displace these tabs to release the sensor. Push the shroud back into position from the OUTSIDE. The bumper cutout is keyed in such a way that the shroud would slot in only if correctly orientated. Push the sensor back into the shroud from the INSIDE. The sensor body locks the shroud in place.
  12. That is correct.
  13. Yup, there are 2 (internal) metal spring clips that hold the the assembly in place - and they aren't sold separately unfortunately.
  14. Yup, set Converse+ to "Ask on Exit", then set to "Reduced Guard" methinks, based on memory.
  15. 25mm/ 1".