TitaniumSteve

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About TitaniumSteve

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  • Ford Model
    Fiesta Mk7 1.6 TDCi Titanium
  • Annual Mileage
    0 to 5000
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  1. I am writing this guide in addition to my first guide to help others if they want to install a sub box into the Mk7 using a RCA convertor to create pre amps out. Firstly I will add that this is not a simple job and I would not advise this to be done by a novice. How ever I hope my guide will make it easier for anyone trying to do the same. Also I will add for those that are screamish this does invole taking apart a 3 week old car, but absolutly no damage was done to my new little car. So here we go. Take out the front head unit, refer to my FIRST guide to do this. Once you have the head unit out you will have to disconnect two multi blocks from the rear of the unit, disconnect both and remove head unit to a safe place. The smaller multi block is just data cables. The connection you are interested in is the larger multiblock. When you look the block you will see 5 pairs of wires top n bottom plus a single cable on its own. The single cable on its own is the ignition live (only goes live when ignition is on). At the other end of the block you will see two fatter cables, the cable with black on it is the ground, and the other is the permannet live. The other eight cables which are a variety of colours are the speaker cables. The top row is the positive and bottom is negative. Now take your RCA convertor on it you will have two positive speaker cables and two negative speaker cables. To avoid cutting cables you can push a bare end cable into the back of the multi blocks so push two positive into the top row and two positive into the bottom row. It is not important which speaker connection you use just as long as you use the same for both neg and pos. On your RCA convertor you will also have a positive and negative cable, again push the bare end cable from your RCA convertor into the appropriate neg and pos connection on the multi block. Now with your ampilifier kit you will be supplied with a long blue remote live cable, this cable is pushed into the back of the ignition live cable (the single cable on the multi block), this will mean your amp will on go on when your ignition is on. Next you will have to feed your RCA cables, (supplied with your amp), your blue remote cable and your power cable to the rear of the car. First tie off your RCA cable and remote cable to something at the head unit so you dont pull them through. It is fairly easy to feed your RCA cables and your remote cable down from the head unit to the floor. You can then tuck them in behind the carpet, and lead them to the small side panel on the passenger side. Now you can take your main min 8 gauge power cable and connect it to the battery. Then this cable can be fed down through a hole next to the washer bottle which will bring it out by the inner arch wheel trim. Thread it round the arch, and by the door hinge you will see some foam sound insulation, this can be moved to the side so the cable can be fed through the hinge to the interior. Now lift up the rubber waterproof trim and feed 3 cables along it, the power cable the RCA cable and the remote cable, and they will now come out by the rear seats. It is now possible to pass all 3 cables along the side of the back seat so that they come out in the boot. Now just when you thought you were done you now have to create an Earth cable, this should be as short as possible and taken from the rear. I used one of the 13mm bolts that hold seat belt mounting in. Simple take out bolt connect your earth cable and put bolt back in. Now the fun bit connect all those cable up to your amp. I am using a active sub, meaning the amp is bulit into the sub box. To test it temporarily reconnect the front head unit and dash and power it up to see if it all works, (remember to turn on your ignition). It should all now come on. With me it all worked first time, I was very pround of myself. You can now put the car carefully back together. I did this whole job without a single scratch and no damage to the car at all, the entire system could be taken out without any sign that had been there. I hope this guide has been of some use. Any questions then please ask. Steve
  2. I am writing this guide in addition to my first guide to help others if they want to install a sub box into the Mk7 using a RCA convertor to create pre amps out. Firstly I will add that this is not a simple job and I would not advise this to be done by a novice. How ever I hope my guide will make it easier for anyone trying to do the same. Also I will add for those that are screamish this does invole taking apart a 3 week old car, but absolutly no damage was done to my new little car. So here we go. Take out the front head unit, refer to my FIRST guide to do this. Once you have the head unit out you will have to disconnect two multi blocks from the rear of the unit, disconnect both and remove head unit to a safe place. The smaller multi block is just data cables. The connection you are interested in is the larger multiblock. When you look the block you will see 5 pairs of wires top n bottom plus a single cable on its own. The single cable on its own is the ignition live (only goes live when ignition is on). At the other end of the block you will see two fatter cables, the cable with black on it is the ground, and the other is the permannet live. The other eight cables which are a variety of colours are the speaker cables. The top row is the positive and bottom is negative. Now take your RCA convertor on it you will have two positive speaker cables and two negative speaker cables. To avoid cutting cables you can push a bare end cable into the back of the multi blocks so push two positive into the top row and two positive into the bottom row. It is not important which speaker connection you use just as long as you use the same for both neg and pos. On your RCA convertor you will also have a positive and negative cable, again push the bare end cable from your RCA convertor into the appropriate neg and pos connection on the multi block. Now with your ampilifier kit you will be supplied with a long blue remote live cable, this cable is pushed into the back of the ignition live cable (the single cable on the multi block), this will mean your amp will on go on when your ignition is on. Next you will have to feed your RCA cables, (supplied with your amp), your blue remote cable and your power cable to the rear of the car. First tie off your RCA cable and remote cable to something at the head unit so you dont pull them through. It is fairly easy to feed your RCA cables and your remote cable down from the head unit to the floor. You can then tuck them in behind the carpet, and lead them to the small side panel on the passenger side. Now you can take your main min 8 gauge power cable and connect it to the battery. Then this cable can be fed down through a hole next to the washer bottle which will bring it out by the inner arch wheel trim. Thread it round the arch, and by the door hinge you will see some foam sound insulation, this can be moved to the side so the cable can be fed through the hinge to the interior. Now lift up the rubber waterproof trim and feed 3 cables along it, the power cable the RCA cable and the remote cable, and they will now come out by the rear seats. It is now possible to pass all 3 cables along the side of the back seat so that they come out in the boot. Now just when you thought you were done you now have to create an Earth cable, this should be as short as possible and taken from the rear. I used one of the 13mm bolts that hold seat belt mounting in. Simple take out bolt connect your earth cable and put bolt back in. Now the fun bit connect all those cable up to your amp. I am using a active sub, meaning the amp is bulit into the sub box. To test it temporarily reconnect the front head unit and dash and power it up to see if it all works, (remember to turn on your ignition). It should all now come on. With me it all worked first time, I was very pround of myself. You can now put the car carefully back together. I did this whole job without a single scratch and no damage to the car at all, the entire system could be taken out without any sign that had been there. I hope this guide has been of some use. Any questions then please ask. Steve
  3. Unless they have changed it, it was free when I registered few months ago
  4. Sorry can#t give you step by step guide as I not done it on a Fiesta.
  5. When you install them do not use the switch wire them straight to the curtesey light. The wiring to cut out the switch comes with the instructions when you buy them. Or you could leave in switch which ever you prefer. Best way to find the correct wires is to unsrew your curtesey light switch then trace the cable futher back to a convenient point then cut cable and wire in paralle with the neons. To check you cuttin the correct cable use a 12V light tester, it should only be live when curtesey switch is on, or out.
  6. I am glad I found it quite straight forward so I was wondering where you were stuck. Hope it gives you the info you want.
  7. That might struggle with a MOT test.
  8. That lighting is fairly straight forward used to do it in my previous customised car. Firstly buy some 12" computer neon lights, these are 12v so will work fine in a car, and are so much cheaper than proper car ones. Use ebay to buy these. Found these with a quick search you might find cheaper Link When installing them just wire them into your curtesey light wiring so that they come on when you open the door. If you wire them to ignition live they will be very bright for driving at night. Hope this helps Steve
  9. Look it up on the Ford Etis site. You will need to register but once done just add your reg number and it will give you loads of wonderful info about your car. Linky Link Link
  10. My first service was £125 via a non ford dealer just my local garage, they did use Ford parts also. This is all perfectly within the warranty so maybe do this for your next service.
  11. The legal specs are upto 100% on all rear windows and no more than 30% on front windows. I would say at a guess the Mk7 are 80% as Michelle says, used to have a jap car that was 95% and it was still comfortable to drive.
  12. You can not pull power from the head unit has the cable is no where near thick enough, you will blow fuses or may be cause fire. The cable for the power needs to be 10gauge thick. I agree that sub sounds like it will be nice for under seat. Mine is not blow ur mind bass as I not have it turned up high just give a little kick to the bass. However at the moment mine is not in the boot as I needed the space for a camping trip I went on, so your underseat one sound good idea. Link to my guide. Linky Link Link
  13. Was just thinking. You could hook up RCA converters to the rear speakers, I just fitted them straight to the speaker cables in the head unit as you have to hook up the remote cable to the unit so as you have head unit out already it saves you taking out rear speakers if you put the RCA converters cables into the speaker cables going into the head unit.
  14. No, I didn't upgrade speakers, just fitted a active sub box, 10". Can't remember make now without going outside to look. I didn't really incur any real problems but I done it before. I assume you have looked at my guide. You will def need a RCA converter as there is no pre-amp outs on the head unit. Running the cables was not to hard but I could not find an easy way to get power through the bulk head so I removed the inner wheel arch linning went into the near side wing and fed the power cable through where the hinge off the door is. Negartive needs to be taken from the rear less than 1 metre from the amp. When you hook uo the remote cable make sure you wire it to an ignition live so that amp is not permantly on. All cables can be run underneath the sill plates, however the RCA cables should be run away from the power cables. You may already know those tips, as I said did not have any real probs. If you look at my guide taking the head unit out is fairly easy just becareful not to break the panel below unit n above aircon. To remove this you should put very thin screwdriver along top edge towards the out sides n gentle lever out, do not pull from bottom or from centre top or more likley to break. Anyway no order to what I wrote above if you careful there is no real probs.
  15. Just turned computer on and saw this title straight away lol, how can I help???