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leesheffield

Budding Enthusiast
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About leesheffield

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  1. Try giving the throttle body a good clean I had the same issue with mine when I took it out of gear to come to a stop the engine has an automatic cut off when you're moving but out of gear connected to the speed sensor (or so I'm told) by cleaning the throttle body it allows the engine to run a bit more freely when coming to a stop and it stopped mine stalling altogether
  2. Anyone got any ideas please?
  3. Here is screenshot
  4. Hi all. Looking for a bit of advice. I've got a bluetooth Elm scanner. Used it with torque app and no error codes came up. However when checking through test results the o2 sensor comes up as not working correctly. Bank 1 and bank 2. (will put a screen shot up in a minute) does anyone know if I should get this checked out and possibly replaced? I noticed yesterday on a motorway run there was a bit of hesitation and juddering when accelerating on slip roads through most gears around 2500 revs. Not had chance to check this out. I don't have any engine faults on the scan or eml light etc. Could this be to do with a sensor not working correctly or maybe a different issue? After 3000 revs it's fine and no problems. Not had that hesitation before so Any advice would be helpful
  5. Well to get to the fog light itself it's behind the bumper anyway so replacinf a bulb is no problem. No plans to change fog lights any time soon so hopefully won't have to worry about it lol
  6. Been a while since I have bought anything for my car but just received these in the post and thought I would share with you all. I have always liked the look of the rear fog light surrounds on the ST and wanted some for myself. Without buying the most expensive option I went with these for 25 quid from eBay . Hope you like. Before and after
  7. I think it's definitely been the cold weather because as it has been a little but milder (can't say warmer) my Mpg has gone up to around 21 and is still climbing slowly. Bring back warmer weather
  8. Yea it was a scary moment. Thanks. I love it but having these small issues is annoying. Thought ford were supposed to be bulletproof lol. Compared to my previous yaris it's nowhere near as good. 7 years I had it with not one single issue but this is a much nicer car so I won't be changing any time soon.
  9. Forgot to mention it's a 1.8 petrol mk2.5. I've never had great mpg. Can get 35 to 40 on a run but around 24 round town which is my main driving. Plus live in Sheffield which is basically all hills so expect rubbish mpg round town lol. I don't leave engine running I just defrost window then go so it's a mystery. When you say running rich how would I know? I recently cleaned all my throttle body and it was caked in carbon. Would that be a sign?
  10. Hi all. Just wondered if anyone else has a massive change in mpg now the cold weather is here. I know the engine has to work harder to get and keep warm but my mpg has dropped to about 18 mpg. Thankfully the petrol prices have dropped too but I wouldn't think cold would effect it quite as much. Another thing I wonder is would incorrectly gapped spark plugs make a massive difference? I changed the spark plugs a few months ago and not sure if the gaps were the same as my previous ones. Would a slight difference in gap make mpg drop this bad? Thinking of getting some new ones fitted and buying from ford dealership. Others I bought were from an indy car parts shop. Hope someone has a clue for me
  11. Hi I had this same problem the other day. Drivers door wouldn't open and had to give it a hard tug. Then wouldn't latch shut. After 5 minutes or so of fiddling with the latch it finally locked. Then was driving along and went round a corner and the passenger door opened without warning. Luckily was. Orpington there in the way to hit otherwise I'd have been severely screwed. Pulled over and closed it and then made sure I locked the doors to stop it happening again. Sprayed some wd40 on it and it seems to have worked so far. Now if the temp drops I keep the doors locked while I'm driving just in case.
  12. Driving through traffic lights;wow gonna be some gridlocked areas. haha ;) sorry had to do it lol
  13. Hi greggp. Yea Thanks for the advice you gave. Mine now feels brilliant to drive. Amazing the difference it's made already.
  14. Hi. Had brakes pads and discs done today and bought from Halfords. Just thought I'd let you all know it worked out cheaper than euro car parts with Halfords discount card given with premium membership. They ordered the actual discs from euro parts and even then they were cheaper. ECP were on sale for around 32 quid for pagid discs each and Halfords cost 25 after ordering them in for me from ECP. Pads were about 25 too and then there was the 15% discount. So all in I paid just over 60 quid for full set. Thanks ford owners club. Well worth the membership to me and hope my membership helps keep this great club running.
  15. Hi all. So recently I have posted a few times about an intermittent fault I have been having where my car was losing power low down the revs and the eml kept coming on. It would slow the car down and I would have very little power in low rev range until about 3000 revs then it would suddenly pock up power. I used a code reader and it showed up as P2008 intake manifold runner control circuit open. So basically the inlet manifold runner control is a vacuum operated system that closes flaps inside the air intake to help with air flow at low revs and apparently increase mpg. So on my car mk2.5 1.8 duratec the placement of parts is as follows. Inlet manifold is at front of engine behind fan for radiator. If you remove the engine cover you can see, towards the rear right hand side of the back of the engine, is a device called the air shut off assy. This is on a metal plate with 4 vacuum hoses connecting to it. This shuts off the vacuum and resets the flaps I started trying to sort the problem with a good clean of the whole inlet manifold. I used carb cleaner to clean the throttle body and sprayed into the inlet too while keeping revs up to clean further into the inlet. One thing that could cause the problem is a split vacuum hose. I sprayed the vacuum pipes from the air shut off and along them to check for air leaks. I sprayed along them with carb cleaner to see if any was taken into the system and this would cause the car to stal. So none of this worked and the pipes were intact so the next thing I Have done is to visually check all wires connections and the air shut off assy itself to see if I could see any problems. Nothing obvious so I then resorted to buying a new air shut off assy and fitted it. I bought from eBay and will post link when I can get on a computer. On phone at minute so can't upload yet. Also will add all pics I have to help locate etc. To fit is a really easy process but fiddly to get to the hex screws due to wires. So here is how. 1.Locate the air assy and unclip the connections on top. 2.Pull off the vacuum pipes from the 2 devices and make sure you remember which goes to which part of the assy. (Top tip mark on with a marker 1,2,3,4 and then also on the old air assy where they correspond when you get it off) 3. On each corner of the plate holding the assy is a hex screw (sorry not sure of size) they are quite fiddly to get to under wires etc but not too bad. undo all these and then carefully remove it. 4. Fitting is just simply reverse the steps above. This should hopefully then fix the issue. It has with mine as i could feel an instant difference. Before I fitted new part I took car out to make it lose power. Not long just needed to stop and start a few times in traffic with engine warm and it soon happened. After fitting I went on a drive and the power was back as normal so hoping it has fixed completely. Will keep updating if any problems later on. Sorry for lengthy post and will post pics asap