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Dave May

Budding Enthusiast
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About Dave May

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  • Birthday 01/29/1947

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  • First Name David

Profile Information

  • Gender* Male
  • Ford Model Mondeo Estate TDCI
  • Ford Year 2004
  • UK/Ireland Location Essex
  • Annual Mileage 15,001 to 20,000

Previous Fields

  • Location LONDON
  1. I have owned my Mondeo 2.0 TDCI Ghia X Estate Tiptronic Automatic since new and it has not had any serious problems at all. I would recommend that you do not rush in and purchase a manual model but to wait for an automatic. You will not regret having an auto and would never go back to a manual car after the auto experience. The tiptronic gearbox also has the manual mode where you can manually change gear yourself by touching the gear stick up or down or by the + and - buttons on the steering wheel. Also its a good tow car as you can hold a gear on manual mode. My car has now done 170000 miles with no problems at all on the auto gearbox. The 2.0 TDCI engine is also a brilliant design and reliable. I have had a few cutout faults which I managed to fix myself and at 155000 miles I had the injectors reconditioned which again was very easy. With any faults on cars you have to have confidence to fix yourself, think if a garage can do it you can too and save lots of money. Discs and pads are very easy to do yourself and very low cost, but make ramps using 4 X13 foot secondhand scaffold boards £5 each. ( See photos on pinned write ups ). If you view the 2 pinned write ups at the top of this forum "How to change the Alternator" and " Flashing Glowplug and cutting out" you will get to know a few faults and how to fix them. Best Regards Dave
  2. My previous cutout problem was when overtaking and was caused by low fuel pressure ( or fuel starvation ) in the common fuel rail due to worn out leakback valves in the injectors All OK when driving up to 60 mph and cured by reconditioning the injectors which is really just renewing the leakback valves inside the injectors. Read more in my forum write-up ( top of the list ) I now have a new cutout problem (flashing glowplug and instant engine off ) and was more difficult to fix. When I started to investigate my previous overtaking problem I changed the usual Camshaft Position Sensor WHICH DID NOT CURE ANYTHING then I found the injectors were the cause. This time I replaced the Crankshaft Position Sensor WHICH AGAIN DID NOT CURE THE PROBLEM. Note: These Crankshaft Position Sensors are difficult to find if you don’t know where to look. Take out the battery and battery box also take out the air cleaner box complete ( 2 minute jobs ). You will find the cable to the sensor behind the silver EGR pipe and the sensor is very easy to change from the top ( not under the car ). I noticed in the morning when the engine was cold it took about 5 miles before cutout occurred. It would not start straight away but after waiting about 2 minutes it would start again but then not last long. I suspected a heat problem so took out the engine thermostat but it still cutout after same time. I disconnected the cylinder head temperature sensor ( same sensor for reading the gauge on instrument panel ) but still no difference. When trying to start I loosened the high pressure pipe to one of the injectors and high pressure diesel squirted out. This proved there was no problem with the fuel pump. I was then just about ready to give up and take the car to the scrap yard when I realised I still had the original Camshaft Position Sensor. I fitted this original Camshaft Position sensor ( black one ) and car started first time and is now fixed. NO MORE CUT OUT PROBLEMS. The defective Camshaft Position Sensor was purchased NEW on ebay and was the modified Grey type and only lasted just over a year but only cost £ 9.99. If purchased from Fords they are about £40 each but still might not be reliable. The moral of this story is to purchase 2 of the cheap £ 9.99 Camshaft Position Sensors and keep inside your car together with the socket to fit them. Its less than 5 mins to fit them, right at the front of the engine below the oil filler cap and a bit right . This will save you a lot of aggro and money. If you need more advice just ask. Dave
  3. My car has the fuel pump on the engine NOT inside the tank. Petrol cars normally have the pump inside the tank. You must have a diesel as you have a flashing glowplug. Luckily you fixed it by changing the filter.
  4. Water Ingress On Mk3 Mondeo

    No I didn't take any pictures this time. Once the door inner panel is off and you turn on the hose pipe you will soon see what you have to cover up. It is normal for water to get inside the door just make sure it comes out of the holes at the bottom, on the OUTSIDE of the rubber seal on the bottom of the door frame. I found with the speaker removed from its hole in the door ( no need to remove the 2 wires ) the water did NOT get INSIDE the rubber seal, but as soon as the speaker was pushed in place the water dripped on to it and then dropped INSIDE the seal. This is probably the reason that some speakers don't work. The water has corroded the wiring connection. Easily fixed with a minature shower curtain hooked onto the speaker studs at the top.
  5. Water Ingress On Mk3 Mondeo

    I had water in the rear footwell of my 2004 Mondeo and was easily fixed. The water came in though the horizontal window weather strip ( where the window slides up and down ). Even a brand new weather strip will not stop all of the rain water getting in. It hits the SPEAKER and drops INSIDE the sealing rubber at the bottom of the door frame then fills the footwell. All you have to do to fix it is to remove the door inner panel ( 5 minute job ) and with a hose pipe you will see the water dripping in above the speaker. I found a roll of 5 inch ( single brick ) damp proof membrane in my shed. This is thick plastic but any thick plastic sheet will do. I cut 3 lengths ABOUT 16 inches long X 5 inches wide. The speaker has 2 studs at the top. Make 2 holes the same width as these studs at the top of the three 5 inch strips. Or just cut a fan shaped bit of thick plastic sheet 5 inches at the top X 16 inches down and about 12 inches wide at the bottom. Remove speaker, then position the 3 plastic strips ( LIKE A FAN OPENING WIDER AT THE BOTTOM ) at the top of the speaker on the studs so that the water does not touch the speaker but runs over the strips like a raincoat and ends up on the outer part of the door panel and then drips out of the normal hole at the bottom of the door. That is all I did to fix the leak on one back door but I am sure all doors can be fixed the same way. Good Luck Dave
  6. You have to relieve spring pressure on the drop link so the bolt can be pushed out. Levering downwards is the only way to do that. Try it and you will see it will not damage anything. Obviously levering downwards with the bolts tight will break something.
  7. I would phone the previous owner and ask where he got the injectors from because it sounds to me like one or more of the injectors have a leaking leakback valve so fuel pressure is reduced in the common fuel rail. Problem is it will cost about £450 to get all four injectors reconditioned as I did. But it did fix my cutout problems. You could do a leakback test on all four injectors, many web sites show how to do this using 4 plastic bottles. If you look at the injectors you will see the leakback clips. Don't bother to try to take the plastic pipes off these clips as they will leak fuel all over the top of the engine. Go to a breakers yard or a Ford main dealers and purchase four new clips then you can make up a leakback test kit. You will need 4 plastic bottles + 4 new leakback clips + about 6 foot of plastic pipe cut into four 18 inch lengths. This is a standard testing kit they use at the garages. They quickly unclip the leakback pipes then clip on the test kit then start the engine and watch for which bottle fills up first then charge you £100 for doing it.
  8. Mk3 Mondeo Wheel Bearing

    I did mine a few months back. I found the 4 bolts were jammed solid and rusty, the torx head just rounds off, but it is still very easy to remove the 4 bolts. Cut the 4 bolt heads off with a small angle grinder ( that only takes 5 mins ), then lever off the old hub, that leaves about 20mm of studs to unscrew. Using the angle grinder again make a flat on all 4 bolts. Unscrew the bolts using molegrips. Without the flat spots the molegrips will just slip round on the jammed bolts. Its an easy job and they lasted 130000 miles for me. I got my 2 rear hubs for my Mondeo Estate from ebay £35 each brand new, lots of outlets sell them and free delivery. Good Luck Dave
  9. This fault first happened at 75mph while overtaking. Selected neutral, switched engine OFF / ON now engine started again. All OK at 60 mph but dangerous to risk any faster especially in the outside lane. Had to fix this quick so purchased a code reader from Amazon but no code was stored. Only way to get a fault code was to drive hard to get car to cut out then pull over and stop WITH IGNITION STILL ON and then connect code reader. Fault code was PO 251 Injection pump fuel metering Control A malfunction. I suspected fuel starvation so replaced fuel filter. The contents of the old filter was emptied into a jam jar and checked for metal particals which is a sign of faulty injection pump but all OK no metal in the filter. Also blew air into fuel pipe to the tank, bubbles came up in the tank so no blockage there. Next day had 600 mile round trip job , so purchased BG244 injection cleaner and full tank of Shell V Power. Found car ok on cruise control set to 70 mph but still cut out when trying to hold 70 mph up a hill. Car cut out at least 10 times that day. This still seems to be low fuel pressure. The injector nozzles should be clean by now so can't be that. On internet found injectors have spray nozzles plus a pressure relief valve which opens to let excessive fuel back to the tank. A common problem is this valve leaks and fuel pressure is reduced in the fuel rail. That seems to be my problem. NOTE : It only needs one injector to leak to cause low fuel pressure but always best to get all four injectors fitted with new leak back valves together. Got a quote from a diesel specialist garage at £1300 + VAT = £1560. This included diagnostic test plus injector leak back test and 4 reconditioned injectors plus coding the injectors. Decided not to bother with the garage I will take the injectors out myself and get them repaired. -------------------------------------------------------------- Removing the injectors on a 2004 Mondeo is the easiest job I have ever done on this car. I followed the Haynes manual. See quick guide below. 1) Remove battery negative lead 2) Wait about 2 minutes for fuel pressure to drop in the rail. Mark the position of the 4 high pressure pipes to the injectors and remove these 4 pipes. 3) Remove the front camshaft cover screws and lift the two triangle metal plates so that you can now unplug the 4 injector electric leads and remove the 4 leakback clips. 4) IT IS VERY IMPORTANT THAT NO SPECKS OF DIRT ENTER THE FUEL RAIL OR INJECTORS so cover the open holes with Duck Tape ( photo 1 ) 5) Unplug the electric plug at the right hand side of the camshaft cover using a bent screwdriver to lift the clip inside plug ( photo 2 ). Also disconnect the crankcase vent pipe ( lever this off with screwdriver ). Unclip the wiring loom and position to the left side with the triangle plates still attached to the wiring loom. 6) Lever out the 4 injector oil seals then remove all screws holding the camshaft cover. Remove camshaft cover. You will now see a brilliant design of an engine. The 4 injectors are in an oil bath and so you will have no problems unbolting them. Most other cars including the expensive ones have the injectors fitted to the outside of the engine block and corrode solid, new engines are needed in some cases but no problems for a Mondeo TDCI. It is now very important to understand that the 4 injectors have a different 16 bit code on their labels and the engine management has to be told what 16 bit number injector is fitted in what cylinder 1.2.3 or 4. I counted from left to right and marked the injectors with a hacksaw blade one at a time as I removed them and also WROTE DOWN THE 16 BIT NUMBER in a diary for future reference. Each injector must be refitted in the same cylinder after reconditioning. IF YOU GET THIS WRONG THE CAR WILL NOT START. ( photo 3 ). If you get a rough idle after refitting the reconditioned injectors the engine management computer will have to have this 16 bit number re-entered. When the injector is fitted you will not be able to see the 16 bit number so don't forget to write it down while its out. You can re-code the engine management yourself as injector programmers / code readers are available on ebay at only £16-95 each. Give it a few days to settle down first though, as the engine management has a built-in learning curve and should automatically do minor adjustments itself. 7) Unbolt the 4 injectors, I used a box spanner with long ring spanner very easy. ( photo 4 ) 8) My local injector reconditioner company was C.A.E. DIESEL LTD Chingford London 0208 527 8077. John the owner was very helpful with advice. At 10am he had the injectors and I collected at 4pm same day. All injectors were fitted with new leak back valves and spray pattern checked. ( £95 each + VAT ). 9) Keep the protective covers on the injectors and refit them in the correct order also make sure the flat part where electric leads fit is facing front. Use a metal rule to line them up. I found it easier to finger tight first and then turn injector 45 degrees back then tighten with the box spanner. The injector turns as the bolt is tightened so as you cannot see the flat part, its a bit hit and miss but its easy enough to get them tight and lined up. ( photo 5 ) 10) Refit the camshaft cover and then the injector oilseals. Dont forget to connect the vent pipe and the electric plug. Refit the high pressure pipes in the same order. Connect the battery negative lead. I did not replace any oilseal or pipes, all were reused. The Haynes manual advised renewing everything but to me all parts were still good and I checked with Fords they do the same as me. There is no need at all to bleed the fuel rail. Any air thats inside will be compressed to nothing when the injector pump starts. I turned the key and it started within 4 seconds. Road tested all OK now and tick-over perfect. Total cost including VAT was £456 I saved over £1000 and learnt a lot. Good Luck with yours. Dave Latest update: 12th April 2015 New cutout problem where glowplug flashes then instant cutout. Not a fuel problem. Faulty batch of Camshaft Position Sensors. Type on google " MONDEO TDCI 2004 MORE CUTOUT PROBLEMS ALL FIXED NOW " for full report.
  10. Thanks for the positive feedback Nic, it was good to know my experience of doing the job had helped someone. Did you manage to make the welded tool for the spring tensioner? The difficult job for me was trying to disconnect the 3 pin plug on the alternator, but after realising where the tab was, it just fell off, no need to force anything. I could now easily change an alternator and belt in less than 2 hours. Best with a ramp and Torx socket though. You will soon see how the belt is routed. The spring tensioner has two brackets top and bottom bolted onto the engine block. The belt runs over and under the top bracket so is trapped. These serpentine belts only drive two units, the alternator and the A/C pump ( the water pump has a seperate belt ). I think this belt would have lasted 200,000 miles provided the alternator and A/C pump do not seize up. So you could just let it run until it eventually snaps. The car will still run and not overheat, its just the battery that will gradually go flat and the diesel will run a lot longer than the petrol engine, but join the AA to get you home just incase. Best Wishes for Christmas everyone. Dave
  11. Only under the radiator about 12 inches long. Its never had a full undertray.
  12. 1) Drive car up ramps ( I made ramps using 4 X 13 foot secondhand scaffold boards £5 each ). Disconnect battery negative connector. Jack up right hand side front of car off the ramp and support with axle stand. Remove front wheel and splash shield, 3 screws. ( Photo 1 ). 2) Remove nut from top of drop link using allen key and spanner. ( Photo 2 ). 3) Lever drop link downwards to easily push out the bolt attached to drop link. ( Photo 3 ). 4) Move drop link to one side so that there is a space to get alternator out. ( Photo 4 ). 5) Remove cooling cover on back of alternator 4 nuts ( 8mm spanner ) and remove 2 wiring connectors. The square connector looks difficult to remove but just press tab with sharpened bent strip of metal and pull plug off ( do not pull on wires ) ( Photos 5 & 6 ). 6) Make tool to release spring tensioner pressure from belt. Mine needed 12mm square X 20mm long bar of metal welded to 22 inch long 6mm strip of metal. Other Mondeos could need a hexagon shaped tool, not square. This tool fits square hole or hexagon shaped hole behind tensioner pulley. Pull to the left to remove pressure on the belt and lift the slack belt off alternator pulley( Photos 7, 8 and 9 ). If you don't have a welder a 12mm square X 20mm bar of metal and an adjustable spanner with tube extension could do it but will probably slip off under pressure. 7) Remove top bolt from alternator ( this bolt also supports wiring harness ). Then from under car remove the other 2 nuts. This leaves 2 long studs that must be removed using E8 TORX socket or pliers but protect the threads. These studs are not very tight. There is now a clear space to lower the alternator. With these 2 studs removed it is also very easy to position the new belt.You will see this when refitting the belt. I purchased a set of TORX sockets from Amazon ( Silverline 675072 14 piece only £8.80 ) very useful for other jobs on the car. 8) Turn alternator so that widest part is horizontal and wiggle it through hole under wheel arch ( photo 10 ). I then also removed complete spring tensioner, another 3 bolts, to inspect it. ( nothing wrong with mine ). This has to be removed if you also want to change the belt. When refitting the spring tensioner and belt ONLY FIT ONE of the TOP 2 bolts loosely ( the outside bolt ) of the spring tensioner then its easy to get the new belt round the spring tensioner pulley as you can move the tensioner outwards to give a 10mm clearance between the engine block and pulley and just loop the belt round the lower bracket of the spring tensioner to get in correct position. Note: this is the reason the 2 studs must be out because if they were screwed in you would not get any 10mm movement to get the belt round the pulley and lower bracket. Now you can go ahead and screw the studs back in while holding the alternator in place plus the lower bracket of the spring tensioner. I forgot to position the lower bracket of the spring tensioner onto the 2 studs. Note how long the threads are on the studs without the spring tensioner bracket on. Make sure you fit the studs complete with alternator and spring tensioner bracket. Also make sure the lower bracket is not upside down, photo 12 is correct way round. ( photos 11 & 12 ). I found it easier to fit the belt on the alternator pulley last when using the spring tensioner release tool.To save your fingers get a piece of wood 60mm X 15mm X 2 foot long, round off one end to the shape of the alternator pulley ( thats 60mm diameter ). Hold the spring to max release pressure using the release tool so you can easily tap the belt onto the alternator pulley from the top of the engine using a rubber hammer on the piece of wood. NOTE: Your release tool must go FULLY into the square or hexagon hole behind the spring pulley. I have noticed that a new spring tensioner had the pulley bolt 4mm too long which only allowed the release tool to go half way in so when applying heavy pressure the aluminium casting breaks around the square hole. So check all new brackets and cut the pulley bolt flush with bottom of hole if too long. My car is an automatic and the crankshaft pulley was in good condition although rusty. Just for the record if you get another car, I consider the 5 speed tiptronic automatic gearboxes on Ford cars to be brilliant, I have had my Mondeo 2.0 TDCI Est Auto 2004 since new and this gearbox has not given any problems at all. No clutch or flywheel repairs on my car. Its done 142,000 miles on original battery, alternator and serpentine belt. I am only changing the belt today because it should be done at 50,000 miles but there was still no sign of wear. Hope these photos and explaination make it easy for you to do this job. Any problems just ask. Good Luck Dave