Ford Owners Club - Ford Forums Messages

Club Announcements

Ford Fair 2016: Tickets and stand passes are now available to purchase. More info here.

Review your Ford: Help others when it comes to buying a car like yours and review your Ford now

AdBlock Warning

Parts of this website do not function properly with AdBlock enabled on your device. To get the best user experience on our website, please disable Adblock for this website (domain) on your browser.


Y.D.S

New Member
  • Content count

    1
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Y.D.S

  • Rank
    Newbie

Contact Methods

  • First Name Sean

Profile Information

  • Ford Model ST220
  • Ford Year 2004
  • UK/Ireland Location Kent
  • Annual Mileage 20,001 to 25,000
  1. Apologies for bumping a very old thread but this is the only topic I can find that's relevant so joined up and look forward to being part of the club! I have a similar problem and need assistance please as am clutching at straws Have a smart charge problem on my MK3 First issue when I bought the car second hand a few months ago... When driving it would randomly do strange things, relays clicking, dials going out, lights on and off, A/C on and off so started fault finding. Found it was overcharging at 17v but soon as it goes into 17v range it would trip things out. Dials logged 9317, 9318 and E200 as fault codes. I found very high resistance on the battery terminals (Negative 37, Positive 10) so replaced battery terminals with new ones and replaced ring connectors and now averaging under 5 on earth, 5 on idle on positive side which increases upto 10 with everything on full load (both heated screens, A/C, lights, full beam etc) Since this it now doesn't overcharge and sits between 16v and 16.5V. Problem is soon as you take your foot off the gas pedal the voltage drops for a very split second down to 13v then back to 16v very quickly. All these readings whilist driving are taken through the dash diagnostics and volt meter whilist idle. I've checked resistance all seems fine, it's had a new alternator and Bosch silver calcium battery in an attempt to fix all this but to no avail. Alternator was replaced under warranty when purchased car Readings on the 3 pin multiplug unplugged whilist running ECU side 13v, 9.5v and 1.5v. On the alternator side again unplugged whilist running, 0V, 5.1v and 5.1v Can also confirm with the 3 pin multiplug unplugged car runs spot on no issues (Albeit battery light illuminated) and have driven around for few weeks with it unplugged but soon as I plug it back in that's when these gremlins suddenly appear I have a basic multimeter so can carry out any tests Am at my wits end so any help or advice very much appreciated!!! Apologies again for bumping an old thread