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DJ Drewman

Budding Enthusiast
  • Content count

    26
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About DJ Drewman

  • Rank
    Member

Contact Methods

  • First Name
    Drew

Profile Information

  • Ford Model
    Focus 2.0L Titanium 4 Door Saloon
  • Ford Year
    2006
  • UK/Ireland Location
    Sussex
  • Annual Mileage
    0 to 5000
  1. From the lack of indicator on the battery check window, I thought this myself, your comment is appreciated :) I've replaced the battery, new one works a treat with no "no charge" light on the dash. Job Done ! Yup, had Bosch before, part of my reason for this one! I aim to replace all my interiors with Blue LEDs (my car is Krystal Blue, so should look stunning) and all the instrument panel green LEDs with blue ones (Electronics is a strong point with me), all to happen when financially viable ;)
  2. I plumped for a Bosch S4 075 S4004 in the end. Calcium 4 year guarantee, Capacity - 60Ah, CCA - 540A and a steal on Euro Car parts with their 15% discount at the moment, Total price a tad over £53. I also have a branch less than 1 mile from my house, picking it up and fitting it, this afternoon :D
  3. Thanks for you replies guys. So after the battery on charge for around 16hours I refitted it. The battery is a maintenance free type but the indicator on the top shows nothing, it is just blank, no "fully charged" green or "discharged" red - nothing! When I took it off charge it was around 1.5A rate, down from an initial 5A charge rate. I refitted the battery, and she started up first time no probs, but after running for a minute or so the "No charge" battery icon illuminated on the dash and remained on. I checked to see if the alternator was turning which is was. I also turned off and fired her up again, no problem starting but once again the "no charge" indicator light came on. My question is this. Would the warning light come on just because the battery is faulty, i.e. if I replace it would this rectify the problem (I'm most likely to do this anyway, due to the lack of any indicator on the battery itself) or could it be a possible alternator problem and how would I diagnose this?
  4. Hi and happy new year to one and all. So I went to start the Focus after it had been sitting for a week.....flat battery :( As deepest winter is looming just around the corner, I have decided to bite the bullet and get a new battery for the car. But I am bewildered by the choice that is out there. Has anyone done some research/ had experience with battery brands? Could anyone recommend a particular brand, or advise against a particular brand? In case you are wondering I'm looking to buy online, after a heavy(ish) duty battery and it's a Type 075. Thanking you all muchly in advance :)
  5. It could be a problem with the stalk too. I had a similar problem with a Fiesta (washers worked, wipers didn't) I once had. I'm not sure how to diagnose the problem but just to say that I ended up replacing the stalk and they worked fine after that. Just throwing another possible problem to make your life easier :P
  6. I prefer the white (on Oli's photo) I like the sharp line, IMO it gives it a 'mean' look.
  7. FYI My engine doesn't have the above coil pack, it has the individual coils like these: http://www.ignitioncarparts.co.uk/PartDetails.aspx?s_pc=PC9007&s_vid= :D
  8. Arthur, I appreciate your comments :) I'm going to give it a go with the 1.2mm gap, if I start having problems with idle etc, I'll take a look at the state of the plugs and maybe reduce the gap. At the moment it's sweet as a nut, but of course this could change. The Bosch plugs I put in looked very different to the Ford plugs that came out, god know how old there were as well maybe 3+ years, quite possibly the reason for the massive difference.
  9. So I nipped out and bought a set of Bosch Super Plugs (No 46 for my engine). I also bought a Haynes Manual whist I was at the shop. The plugs came with a 1.1mm gap from the box, I've increased it to 1.2mm so I get better performance/economy. As it's fairly easy to replace the coils I was looking at cost LONG TERM. Here are my rough thoughts/calculations. So say the coils only last 25,000miles (which I would expect to be very low, and probably would last double that, but for the purpose of my calculations....) and by increasing the gap I get an extra 2.5mpg better economy (Once again, it may be more or maybe less...) So over 25,000miles at 30mpg you use 834gallons. Over 25,000miles at 32,5mpg you use 769gallons, that's a 65gallon saving. 65Gallons at 1.30p/litre equates to £383. (65 x 4.54 x 1.3) The coils cost around £100 - £120 to replace. So even by taking the larger figure off the saving (383-120) You still have a saving of £263 over the life of the coils IF they last only 25,000 miles. So looking at the bigger picture, I would think that the smart thing would be to have a slightly bigger gap (than the standard 1.0mm that Ford recommend), as the long term savings are possibly massive. Please note, I have NO basis to the figures above, but have put in reasonable assumptions that may be fiction but maybe not that far from fact!
  10. I Thanks Eliaskok, I did look here and I queried it because a) the price [per plug?, lower down it states fitted quantity: 4, which is correct?] and the fact it states just 'Bosch' not 'Bosch Super Plus' I found these [LINK] which if this is the correct plug, seems a great price for 4. It looks like the same spec, 17.5mm thread length Your thoughts?
  11. I had a look online and frankly I'm really confused. I can't work out if I'm meant to use the +39 size or +46 (on the Bosch Super Plus) I just can't get a definitive answer what plug I should use :/ The Online Ford Parts site, says I can have a set of 4 (using my VIN) for £35 + VAT - really???? So assuming I'm going to go down the Bosch Super plus route, can anyone tell me what size I need. (Once again 2.0L Petrol Duratec HE engine 2006 model) Secondary to that I'm thinking of setting the gap to 55thou (which if my conversion is correct is around 1.4mm) as from the american thread I linked in my first post [LINK AGAIN] it seams to be the best gap for performance/economy - can anyone confirm that for me? Thankies in advance.
  12. They are very nice! I'm rather put off by the price :(
  13. So after looking through the partly filled service book on my newly aquired Focus 2.0L Petrol Focus and doing an oil change today I'm thinking that it's possible that the spark plugs are due for replacement. After looking for a while on the FOC forums, I couldn't find an answer to "What would be a good set of spark plugs to give a good performance/economy". I came across this thread [LINK] on another website (sorry for digressing off this wonderful site) which basically states that using the 'Autolite AR103' may be my best bet, but it seems to be an american make and not readily available in the UK. Can anyone suggest a good substitution for this type in the UK. I think I'm looking for a copper plug that has a groove cut in the electrode and the electrode is nickel plated. FYI 2.0L Duratec HE Petrol engine 2006. Your recommendations please. ;)
  14. Received the replacement window/mirror switch unit today, took around 20mins to fit it (the screw's were being very unhelpful). I now have working electric mirrors :D So problem solved. I'm sort of glad I worked through this as I've not seen many posts across the interwebs which has this particular problem and hopefully might help someone else someday. Thanks for you help Stoney. I'm toying with the idea to put a strip of LED's just under the upper lip of the luggage compartment for lighting but this is a while off before I do, I'll do a guide when I get round to it.
  15. This is the attitude I used to have about tyres, but after years of motoring you discover the false economy. Brands differ heavily, even the range within a brand. It can be the difference between wet and dry handling, the difference between getting 20,000miles or 60,000miles out a tyre and even up to 5mpg. The potential saving are massive over the life of a tyre you could be looking at thousands of pounds in saving just on fuel alone. spending £50 on a tyre that looses you 5mpg and lasts 30,000miles is a much worse buy than a £70 tyre that will last 40,000 miles with no noticeable loss in economy and better road handling. Do the math. Your tyres can be argued to be the most important part of a car as it's the only contact between vehicle and road surface. Tyre ratings are there for a reason, and an excellent guide to use. Do the research, choose wisely.... you could get back the extra spent within the 7-10 full tanks of fuel you'll put in, and then it's an ongoing saving for the rest of the life of the tyre!