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About south_bound

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    Feet Under The Table

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  • Ford Model
    Focus 1.6 TDCi Ghia
  • Ford Year
  • UK/Ireland Location
  • Annual Mileage
    15,001 to 20,000

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  1. I think he meant he got it up to 70 mph (not mpg!) on the motorway. There could be all sorts of reasons, but first thing I would do is measure the real mpg by noting the miles between fills and the number of litres used to get an accurate figure, otherwise you are just guessing. It could be down to colder temperatures, shorter trips not warming up the engine enough, under inflated tyres (easy to check), time to do a service (cheapest place to start) etc. You're not really giving us much to go on here.
  2. I had a new windscreen fitted last summer but it is the first time this has happened since. I also fiddled with the drivers door recently to sort out the handle not working so maybe this has resulted in water getting into it, but I thought there are some drainage holes to let out any water which does find its way in there? The carpets feel dry enough. Next sunny and windy day, I will have to open up all the doors and see if things will dry out.
  3. Get in the car this morning and there was a huge amount of condensation not just fogged up but actual drops of water. I had to wipe this off with a cloth and squeezed out a load of water, after the heated screen and warm air vents did nothing to help. We had loads of heavy rain last week and maybe some got into the car, but anyone else have this problem with their Focus? Now I have streaks all over the window where I have wiped it, especially when driving towards the sun which is low in the sky - any suggestions of getting it back to the way it was?
  4. Mine does this occasionally over the last few months, and I noticed it again last night pulling out from the work car park. I just assumed the clutch is on its way out as the car is nearly 10 years old and 120,000 miles.
  5. As above, if I was you I would invest in driving lessons to prevent a repeat and then use the insurance savings to get the car you want in a few years of good behaviour...maybe not the advice you were after?
  6. The tyre on the other side had even wear, consistent with what I would expect, so this could have been a defective one. I have read on the internet about a "saw tooth" phenomenon for back tyres on front wheel drive cars as they get dragged along behind (random link here, and this can apparently cause some deformation (bulging or oval shape) of the tyre but all sounds a bit wierd to me - why this has only happened on this tyre and not the previous sets I have had over the last 120k miles?
  7. New Michelins now fitted on the back and I feel a lot better about it! The tyre fitting place recommended getting the wheel alignment/geometry done, but I am not sure this was the problem. The reason is that I had moved the bad tyre from front to back previously and the vibration and noise went with it so in my mind that indicates the fault is with the wheel/tyre rather than alignment. Add to that the lack of weights on the rim (which might have fallen off or never been fitted) - would you agree with that? I guess it can't hurt to get the alignment checked and adjusted, but its €100 I could spend elsewhere if it is not needed.
  8. I've had a bit of a rumble from one of the back wheels for a while and my local garage told me it was uneven tyre wear, not bearings or anything nasty, and that it was fine to carry on for a while before changing tyres. That was a while ago and I have checked them regularly since. Other than a bit less tread in one area than another it didn't seem anything to worry about. I just did a 300 mile return motorway drive and was thinking about putting new tyres on before that but didn't get around to it. Anyway, early in the trip that same tyre started making more noise and vibrating, especially noticeable at around 60mph. At 50mph and at 70mph it was a lot less pronounced so I just made sure I didn't hold it at 60, but generally stayed above that, say 70-75. Got home and saw this: About 3 quarters of the tyre is fine with legal tread: One patch looks like the second photo - SCARY! Now, the Ford Focus has quite heavy camber on the back wheels so it is not surprising that the wear is on the inside. I can't believe that it wore through that much in just 300 miles though! I am convinced that this wheel was not properly balanced when the tyre was fitted, and when I jacked up the wheel off the ground, it spun on its own until the worn part was on the top. It has never sounded right but I just couldn't put my finger on it and maybe took too much comfort from the mechanic telling me it was ok. This is a real lesson to me to make sure I get tyres looked at as soon as there is anything not normal happening before it ever gets this bad again. Needless to say, it'll be a trip straight down to get a new set fitted before I go any further.
  9. Ah ok, I must have missed that, just remember your saga trying to fit a cheap aftermarket one which wouldn't do as it should. "Sorted" my dpf and changed the timing belt at 8 years / 100k miles to make sure it didn't pop so should be good for a few more years. In my mind if the car is running well and not costing too much in maintenance its a no brainer rather than lose a load of depreciation in the first couple of years of a having newer model.
  10. You didn't mention the dpf replacement, or are you worried that would just open up a can of worms and put people off? To be honest if I was looking at a car that age I would be thinking about the cost of dpf replacement and timing belt which could be up to half the value of the car so would look for cars which have already had this done. Based on valuations for my Focus from a year or two back (one year older than yours) I would say £2500 to £3000 private sale. At those valuations I decided to keep mine, get the timing belt done and see how long it lasts without major work needing.
  11. I have been looking to go from a space saver to full size spare as I've twice had blow outs on the motorway and had to finish a long journey at 50mph. Problem with organising a swap is the distance to get to you, and putting it in the post isn't really an option.
  12. All put back together and the handle is working as it should...for now, lets see how long it lasts. A couple of small issues - why is the trim so hard to put back together so it is all aligned and not floppy? A couple of the fasteners on the door card wouldn't clip back in and I didn't feel like taking the thing off again - one might have broken off when I pulled it off first time. Same for the bezel around the inner door handle which took ages to align and clip back in. The other thing is that the drivers window does not do one-touch close any more, but does one-touch open. All the other windows still do one-touch up and down as before - does this need to be reprogrammed, or is it that I might not have put the window back in properly? Anyway, I'm still happy I've done this work myself - learned a few things and didn't need to take it in to get it looked at and probably pay someone else a couple of hundred quid so happy days.
  13. Quick update after sleeping on it overnight...I decided that the chances of buying the cable on its own for a couple of quid are unlikely especially as it passes through a sleeve which would have to come with it if the cable already has the end pieces attached. The sleeve is clamped onto the handle/catch mechanisms and looks like I could easily snap a piece of plastic and be back to having to buy the whole attachment. So I made a new attachment piece for the end of the cable where it broke - I used an electrical connector and crimped it onto the end of the broken cable and then fitted it onto the door reinforcement using a small nut and bolt - hopefully the photo shows that ok. It seems to work and operates the door catch, but I'll only know when everything is back together. How long it lasts is another question but at least having done this once it will be quicker next time. Now to give everything a bit of a clean and lubrication - amazing how much crap ends up inside the door behind the panel...
  14. Opps, last photo upside down for some reason
  15. Got it - well at least the door is in bits now! The broken part is the cable connector that runs between the handle and the lock as in the photo. I have included a photo of the back of the metal panel as well in case anyone is interested. I'm hoping the replacement cable can be bought on its own - its only a short length of cable less than a foot long with connectors crimped on so shouldn't be that expensive. Would you happen to know what it is called (or part number) and if only Ford would stock it? Thanks again for all your help Ian, it feels good to have worked it out without resorting to a mechanic, and will feel even better when all fixed and working.