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Budding Enthusiast
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About south_bound

  • Rank
    Feet Under The Table

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  • Ford Model
    Focus 1.6 TDCi Ghia
  • Ford Year
  • UK/Ireland Location
  • Annual Mileage
    15,001 to 20,000

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1,688 profile views
  1. Ah ok, I must have missed that, just remember your saga trying to fit a cheap aftermarket one which wouldn't do as it should. "Sorted" my dpf and changed the timing belt at 8 years / 100k miles to make sure it didn't pop so should be good for a few more years. In my mind if the car is running well and not costing too much in maintenance its a no brainer rather than lose a load of depreciation in the first couple of years of a having newer model.
  2. You didn't mention the dpf replacement, or are you worried that would just open up a can of worms and put people off? To be honest if I was looking at a car that age I would be thinking about the cost of dpf replacement and timing belt which could be up to half the value of the car so would look for cars which have already had this done. Based on valuations for my Focus from a year or two back (one year older than yours) I would say £2500 to £3000 private sale. At those valuations I decided to keep mine, get the timing belt done and see how long it lasts without major work needing.
  3. I have been looking to go from a space saver to full size spare as I've twice had blow outs on the motorway and had to finish a long journey at 50mph. Problem with organising a swap is the distance to get to you, and putting it in the post isn't really an option.
  4. All put back together and the handle is working as it should...for now, lets see how long it lasts. A couple of small issues - why is the trim so hard to put back together so it is all aligned and not floppy? A couple of the fasteners on the door card wouldn't clip back in and I didn't feel like taking the thing off again - one might have broken off when I pulled it off first time. Same for the bezel around the inner door handle which took ages to align and clip back in. The other thing is that the drivers window does not do one-touch close any more, but does one-touch open. All the other windows still do one-touch up and down as before - does this need to be reprogrammed, or is it that I might not have put the window back in properly? Anyway, I'm still happy I've done this work myself - learned a few things and didn't need to take it in to get it looked at and probably pay someone else a couple of hundred quid so happy days.
  5. Quick update after sleeping on it overnight...I decided that the chances of buying the cable on its own for a couple of quid are unlikely especially as it passes through a sleeve which would have to come with it if the cable already has the end pieces attached. The sleeve is clamped onto the handle/catch mechanisms and looks like I could easily snap a piece of plastic and be back to having to buy the whole attachment. So I made a new attachment piece for the end of the cable where it broke - I used an electrical connector and crimped it onto the end of the broken cable and then fitted it onto the door reinforcement using a small nut and bolt - hopefully the photo shows that ok. It seems to work and operates the door catch, but I'll only know when everything is back together. How long it lasts is another question but at least having done this once it will be quicker next time. Now to give everything a bit of a clean and lubrication - amazing how much crap ends up inside the door behind the panel...
  6. Opps, last photo upside down for some reason
  7. Got it - well at least the door is in bits now! The broken part is the cable connector that runs between the handle and the lock as in the photo. I have included a photo of the back of the metal panel as well in case anyone is interested. I'm hoping the replacement cable can be bought on its own - its only a short length of cable less than a foot long with connectors crimped on so shouldn't be that expensive. Would you happen to know what it is called (or part number) and if only Ford would stock it? Thanks again for all your help Ian, it feels good to have worked it out without resorting to a mechanic, and will feel even better when all fixed and working.
  8. OK, thanks for that. So to summarise: 1. pull out the window from the door - the Hayes manual seems clear enough on that, confirmed by what you said 2. undo all the electrical connectors 3. unbolt the electric window motor 4. unbolt the metal panel and remove to get access to the insides and the handle reinforcement will be attached to the back of it What about the lock mechanism - does this need to come off as well to allow the panel to come off? Do you know how long all this should take, and the chances that it all works when put back together? Worst thing would be to have no door handle or windows working!
  9. Good thinking. The handle still springs back in the normal way but I have just taken it off in case and it looks intact. The spring mechanism looks ok from the little I can see from the outside through the hole - if I had an endoscope camera that might help, but I don't. I think that either a piece of the reinforcement mechanism that I can't see has broken off, or the wire connector hook has come off somehow. I heard a noise like a metal piece falling down the inside of the door when it first broke so the challenge is getting in there to find it or fix it...
  10. So I finally got around to taking the door panel off, but there is a solid plate across the whole door so can't see into the handle mechanism at all. The Haynes manual has a whole list of things to remove before even getting to the window regulator, including: * remove the window glass * remove electric window motor * remove the exterior door handle * remove the door (!!!) * remove the exterior mirror trim (???) * undo the 10 bolts securing the inner panel to the door frame * undo the 5 bolts securing the door lock to the door * manoeuvre the panel fro the door * drill out the rivets holding the window regulator Sounds a lot of faff just to get to the inside of the door frame. I have tried taking off the 10 bolts holding the panel but it won't move. Maybe I will try by undoing the bolts holding the window motor as well and the ones holding the door lock, but the last thing I need is for the window glass to fall out or the electric mechanism to not work as well as the outside door handle, then I would have to start climbing in from the passenger side every time I want to drive the car. Hoping that someone has done this at least once and can give me some reassurance that it all goes together without a risk that nothing works afterwards. Photo of the door with the trim off so you can see what I am looking at. thanks in advance
  11. I think I remember reading somehting about this as wll, but thought it was being introduced only for newer cars eg. Euro 6 compliant. Until then, I'll keep sleeping easy at night!
  12. Yeah, I'll have to do that anyway, but thought it would be better going into it with the combined knowledge of this forum,especially if there is a common issue to look out for.
  13. Had a problem with my driver's door handle which now won't open the door from the outside, but perfectly fine from the inside. I heard a sound as if a piece of metal fell down the inside of the door when it happened and from reading up on the internet it sounds as if its a piece that has fallen off the reinforcement mechanism. I'm surprised it doesn't come up on a search on this forum, so my question is: how easy it is to take the reinforcement off but then put the handle itself back on for the time it takes me to confirm this is the problem and then get a new one? Depending on the cost new I might try to get one at a scrapyard but want to make sure I'm only buying a piece that I really need. Does anyone have any tips on what else it might be or tips on a fix - theres a video on the US Youtube showing a cost free fix but I don't think its relevant to this problem. thanks
  14. Just looked them up and HDI-tuning is located only about 50 yds from Avon in Tockington (funny that I never came across them before!) - are they related? That said, I have been impressed by Avon enough to prefer going back than risk someone else who might not do a s good a job.
  15. I see that you are in Somerset - I would take the car to Gareth at Avon Tuning near Bristol who would sort this out for you once and for all, cheaper and more reliable than messing about with dpf replacements and fluids. Did mine there about 2 or 3 years ago and no issues since. Ask about deleting the egr as well for good measure.