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south_bound

Budding Enthusiast
  • Content count

    303
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About south_bound

  • Rank
    Feet Under The Table

Contact Methods

  • First Name
    V

Profile Information

  • Ford Model
    Focus 1.6 TDCi Ghia
  • Ford Year
    2007
  • UK/Ireland Location
    Other/NonUK
  • Annual Mileage
    15,001 to 20,000

Recent Profile Visitors

2,175 profile views
  1. I have a similar dent on my Mk 2 - that's the day I didn't see a metal post and found out the reverse sensors had stopped working! I have just left it as per some of the other comments, it would cost nearly the value of the car to fix and isn't doing any harm as it is (though that's not how I felt the day it happened). Same when I caught the underside on a rock and left a dent, or when someone opened their door against mine, upsetting at the time but have lived with it since and not worth getting worked up about.
  2. Try Avon Tuning in Tockington (just outside Bristol) - just look them up on Google for web site and contact details and ask for Gareth or James. From memory it was about £300 or so for the DPF removal and remapping but that was about 3 years ago. Would definitely be worth asking their advice around removing or cleaning and I have always found them spot on.
  3. Looks like I will buy a second hand mechanism with key and swap it out. Then I will swap the immobiliser chip to the new key and accept that I will have the old key for the doors and the new key for the ignition. Maybe I would look at getting new door locks as well if they come up cheap on ebay.
  4. I had my "done" a few years ago and had no problems with MOT or smoke since. Coupled with blanking the EGR and remap I have better performance and better fuel economy. I could recommend a good place that does this near Bristol if that is near to you or you are willing to travel. They also do DPF cleaning and other diagnostic / remapping services and they would definitely be able to advise you ((without any hard sell) and have great customer focus.
  5. Thanks for the reply isetta. When it sticks, the key does not turn at all so the steering lock is still engaged - even if the front wheels are straight and there is no pressure on the steering lock. I need to push the key in a bit to get it to turn, and that is just since I squirted the oil in. I'll have a look at getting a cheap replacement mechanism and try to fool the immobiliser by waving the original key in front of it...we'll see if that works.
  6. No one? The oil squirted into the lock seems to be working for now, but fully expecting a call from my wife at any moment, stuck in the supermarket car park with the key not wanting to turn!
  7. Problem with my ignition barrel - basically the key will not turn to start the engine, feels like a mechanical blockage like the locking mechanism is worn or damaged. Same thing with both keys, which work in the doors so I am pretty sure it is the barrel not the key which is the problem. I sprayed some oil onto the key and also into the key hole and it has helped but doesn't fill me with confidence and don't really want to be in a position of not being able to start the car. I take it this is a main dealer job as they need to code a replacement barrel to the key? The local main dealer wants £140 to diagnose the problem (!), but I have got them to price the replacement part at £180 and the labour at £240 - sounds a bit steep? And there is a 10 day wait on the parts. Given the car is 10 years old and I want to spend the minimum possible on it, is there another way around this - even to the point of removing all the gubbins and not even needing the key if necessary? I'm thinking about how car theives would just join 2 wires together to get it started, though I would install a hidden switch to make it more secure. Or are these modern (ish in my case) just too full of electronics nowadays?
  8. Here are the photos, don't know exactly which part of the plastic bit you need the dimension to so took a general photo and a close up of that end - hope they show up ok. The cable slides a bit inside the plastic end by about 10mm so that could make a difference as well. Let me know if you need a more exact number..
  9. Yep, I just had the same problem and followed a combination of several threads on this forum and Youtube videos, the best solution just depends on exactly what is wrong so there is not one solution to fit all. The search function on here works well enough to find topics using key works "bonnet lock" or "bonnet not working" etc
  10. What exact dimensions do you need? I took the whole lock barrel, cable and white plastic piece off a couple of weeks as part of getting the bonnet to open and haven't put it back so can go out and measure it up if you want.
  11. Thanks, I've seen those replacement plastic link bars on ebay before and might get one if my "temporary" arrangement doesn't work out. I ended up grinding down the end of a steel bar to fit the cross shape in the latch that I will keep in the boot for when it is needed (my screwdriver wasn't long enough to reach all the way in). In reality I only need to open the bonnet every month or two to check fluid levels and change the oil/filters once a year so not a big deal to spend an extra 30 seconds opening it - not like having a non-operational driver's door handle for 6 months and having to reach in from the back door every time I got into the car!
  12. The clips are broken on mine as well and I use a couple of cable ties to hold it on, wrapped around whatever I can like the rigid pipe and yellow plastic thing in the top picture above. Just have to put on new ones every time I do an air or oil filter change.
  13. Job done. I was just about to smash up the white plastic bits then decided to try and reach around the latch and undo the 10mm bolts holding it in. Not much room to work and no way the rachet socket would fit so it was a case of 1/8th turn at a time with the spanner held in my finger tips, fitting in the gap just below the bonnet. There is no way I could reach up from underneath, no room and my arm got stuck trying. Also, no one said anything about the plastic catch which holds the lock on and which needs to be helped off with a screwdriver once the bolts are out - I can post a picture if anyone is interested. Don't know what was wrong as the whole mechanism worked again when I reconnected everything together. I don't have any confidence that it will continue working though so have removed the lock, cable and plastic bits and will just keep a screwdriver in the car from now on to push straight into the cross shaped hole in the latch.
  14. No one?
  15. So I have managed to pull the grill off in one piece as per the video and now left with the key barrel hanging down from the white collet piece. Any advice on a Saturday evening before I go back out tomorrow to get to the latch mechanism? I think I will start by trying to pull the lock barrel and cable straight off, as there is some movement in the white plastic so it might just pull out. Failing that I will take a lump hammer to it, but just don't like the thought of smashing it all up! I haven't bought any replacement pieces yet so will so might just leave it with access for a long screwdriver to opne it again in future. Also, I'm guessing its quite easy to refit the grill with plastic push-in widgets to replace the screws I cut out? Cheers