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WHITTALL

Budding Enthusiast
  • Content count

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  1. Guy I wonder if anybody can shed some light. Car started yest morning but as soon as I went to reverse out of my drive she dies. I try to restart and she won't fire up. No time to look into then as I had work. I try again 8 hours later still no joy. I look over the usual culprits when I open up the air box leaving it open she starts. I'll leave her run & warm up turn her off then on couple of times starts every time great I dusted of the filter looked a bit dirty but not that old so popped her back in and drove the car to halfords and got a new air filter fitted it car still running fine. I went then and did a few things driving stopping driving again all fine problem fix right? Wrong went to start the car this morning before the wife work she starts good turn her off but then when my wife goes to drive her 15mins later she starts but the dies after about 3 feet. Again in have work so leave 8 hours try again today for me but with trouble. Again I go under her investigating and this time pull the fuel filter and its buzzing got all build up all over it but again its not that old. So I replace the fuel filter and now for the life of me I cannot get her to stay running. Previously had problems starting after a fuel filter change try all the usual tricks syringing to prime used a can and half of easy start (worked last time) but she just will not stay running but is it the filter or another problem? No DTC code seams to be worse when cold and no symptoms when she's been working. Help lol
  2. So couple of weeks ago whine appears from Alternator which disappears with the smart charge disconnected. Investigation battery low on voltage so I charge her up and output is normal for a couple of weeks and now she's died. So I swap out the battery for an old one which could be faulty but is the same voltage so I charge over night to make sure and the cars dead after 3 starts with voltage readings 12v off and under 10v running. I know your not meant to disconnect the negative on modern but I did so anyway and the car died so I believe it's the Alternator and not the battery would I be correct? Ford Focus 1.8 TDCI 56 plate. Smart charge fuse is also fine. Sent from my iPhone using Ford OC
  3. Battery charged I'm idling at 14v ish driving at about the same with a few electronics and everything on about 12.5v is this good or? Sent from my iPhone using Ford OC
  4. Another update I've been out tonight and I've disconnected the smart charge from the alternator and I'm getting pretty much the same results 11.9 engine off and 13.5ish under revs with all electrics off drops to 12.5ish with them all off. I currently have the battery out of the car charging it over night. To see if that helps any. Again any advise would be greatly appreciated Sent from my iPhone using Ford OC
  5. Okay thanks the help so far I been to Halfords to have a test done and the results are Battery test: Volts 12.32v Measured 328 EN(A) Rating 700 EN(A) Replace Battery advised. Starter test: Cranking 10.06v Time 1.28 secs Cranking normal. Charging Test: No Load 14.28v Loaded 11.75v Low output. So should I still retake the readings myself with the smart charge disconnected. Also forgot to mention earlier that I did let the battery run flat a fortnight back could it be it hasn't regained its full potential since then? Cheers again guys Sent from my iPhone using Ford OC
  6. Ford Focus 1.8TDCi 56 plate. So the car starts and runs fine. I got in it today and there's a whine from the engine bay think its around the Altenator/auxiliary belt pulley area. Check with the wife and she says "Oh yeah it's been there a couple of days" I do the dashboard trick thingy and it displaying DTC#01 9318 which I'm find out means Low Battery Voltage. Everything off the battery output show 11.8. If I turn everything on lights etc excluding the engine drops to 10.5. Engine on its 12.1 but if I rev/drive it it goes up 13 to 14. Looking online I'm just getting confused. Can anybody shed any light on this please? Sent from my iPhone using Ford OC
  7. Got under it and tightened everything with extra leverage and now it's sorted so thank you.
  8. Hey guys seams as though my Ford KA 02 plate is overheating. It is using a lot of oil and water but a no point have I had a light on dash even when the oil was nearly empty and the water. There is the old white smoke coming from the exhausted and a hiss coming from the engine but the dip stick shows no white creamy froth. I assume it's the head gasket regardless, if so can somebody tell me the rough cost of fixing it or shed light on what else it could be.
  9. Cheers for the response the garage that did the MOT don't do welding but I've been quoted today £200-£300 for the job which is reasonable for the extent of the work. Thanks
  10. My Ford Ka 2002 just got refused an MOT as it was to dangerous to MOT for the reason of rust. The areas that need repairing O/S/F & N/S/R Sills have holes, O/S/F & N/S/R floor AND O/S/R Chassis point. Just looking for a what a rough quote would be to have these welded?
  11. Hi thanks I did have ball joint disconnected but also put new bushes in on both sides I'll check the ball joint but what should I check with the bushes could I have done them wrong some how?
  12. I have installed a new off side drive shaft on my Ford Focus 1.8 TDCI 06 plate and now there is a clunk when I shift in low gears or pull off sharply and when it his pot holes at low speed. Any ideas what I have done wrong or something else bust?