Dee_82

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Dee_82 last won the day on April 27

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About Dee_82

  • Rank
    Ford Enthusiast
  • Birthday 09/09/1982

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  • First Name
    Darren

Profile Information

  • Gender*
    Male
  • Ford Model
    Focus MK2.5 1.6 TDCI
  • Ford Year
    2008
  • UK/Ireland Location
    Other/NonUK

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  1. Swap Xenon + Halogen Headlights to Bi-Xenon

    I don't have any experience with the Mk3 lamps but if they are as much a pain in the bum as the Mk2.5 then forget it. you'll need to replace the projector housing with a CE approved one, then rewire it up. its not all that hard once you get inside the damn things but that is where i came unstuck have what is in essence bi xenon projectors in the low beam reflector position as well as halogen highbeams as normal, absolutely love it. big job, expensive to do it right, and ask yourself this, are you going to see any real benefit to using them?
  2. Pipe Leaking In Engine Bay?

    She is just relieving herself. sounds like a AC drain hose from all of the above.
  3. cheers guys, so i spent the day looking in to this, ECU, Fuse and relay are all good, 14v at the fan connector but she wont play ball, so looks like a faulty fan, cleaned up connectors and nothing. Replaced the cap and pressure is maintained, climate heaters are keeping the temps to 80-90c but that's at idle, no climate fans and she boils the coolant, no mayo as far as i can see sooo, I'm thinking we dodged a bullet here. Seems ECU kicks in fan at around 90c+ or when AC is turned on at more than 80c.
  4. i used to get it really bad when i got the car and it got better as time went on, i changed the transmition oil for good measure but if it doesn't go in, i just reapply the clutch then pop it in to gear at the same time as lifting the clutch. and it usually just slides in. after i changed the oil it got better, but its still there to a degree, i just think i come to deal with it better. ive done about 60k in it since i got it. Now time for a clutch change!
  5. Hi guys, Does anyone know what temp the rad fan kicks in at? So yesterday, my partner was driving home, then hit heavy traffic, at which point steam started venting out of the engine, she didn't remember when the coolant temp light kicked in and there stupidly isn't a gauge in the car. She pulled over blocking the busiest bridge in Scotland and called me i got her to whack on the heaters to full, internal fans to full and open the windows before she cooked. temp light went out and she got home shortly after. Zero coolant in the expansion tank, i had about 600ml kicking around so i dumped that in to it and it swallowed it up, continued to fill with water and eventually got it full again. Oil was a little low and slightly discoloured , more dirty brown then gold and was a little lower than normal, about half way down the stick. IT wasn't white and pasty either on the stick or looking under the rocker cover. this morning we got it running again and left the expansion cap off for a while, a small amount of really small bubbles was developing on top of the fluid, looked more like what you get when you boil water then anything else. put the cap on at around 50c and Kept it running i had to go to work at this point so left my partner with it but she didnt have and OBD coms to check temps, she left it running for about another 20 min (30 min in total) and the radiator got hot, shortly after the expansion tank with the fitter cap, was boiling water, which suggests either its getting really hot or theres a lack of pressure in the system. but the fan never turned on at any point. So i have a number of concerns, one shes blown a gasket, discoloured oil and possibly the bubbles in the tank making me think that. Secondly, how did all this happen, is the fan buggered. Can i force the fan on by removing a temp sensor as was the case in previous cars? or what temp should it turn on at Coolant temp sensor in the thermostat, is that buggered, it seems to be registering on forscan if that is where the PCM gets its temp from ( pretty sure there is an engine temp sensor somewhere, the coolant one deals with the fan?, not sure) Its been sitting still for the last 2 or 3 hours and the coolant level hasn't dropped and there are no apparent pools under the car. anyhow, many many questions but I'm hoping someone on here has some experience of these things and perhaps have some avenues to check out, especially around the fan temp.
  6. Engine Vibrations - Gearbox Mount?

    i can see the rocking, not sure the lower mount will make a difference, even if it was buggered, wouldn't it only be noticeable under torque? at a steady 800RPM it should be fairly balanced. the rocking looks almost rhythmic in nature, could the flywheel be off balance perhaps?
  7. Headlight bulb upgrade

    i suspect your right, the MOT isn't a sign of what's legal and what isn't. as for the insurance, tell them the truth, you have upgraded projector Lamps, they wont ask for details and you have done your part so are not misleading them. If i read the T&C correctly on all of my insurance to date, you can only have your insurance pulled if you deliberately mislead them. If you unintentionally mislead them to the point that they wouldn't have given you the cover OR the premiums would be significantly more than what you were paying had they known, they are obliged to give you your premiums back and cancel your insurance., its the deliberate part that is important and will royally screw you and leave you out of pocket. When it comes to insurance its always best to tell them, with the exception on my rear disc brake mod, ive not found a single insurance company that wont give me insurance with all my modifications.
  8. Headlight bulb upgrade

    That's not strictly speaking true (in respect of England Scotland and Wales.) you can have HIDs without levellers and washers (some cars were made like that) but if you do have levellers and washers then they must work and they must abide by the pattern test and are visibly the correct colour (in respect to the MOT check) The law change in question was more to do with putting HIDs in a reflector which is a big no no. but a HID in a proper projector so long as it doesn't break any other law, is as far as I'm aware, legal? Proper LED setups and by that i mean ones that are actually good and not some cheap Chinese knock off jobs that will more likely set fire to your car to light up the road ahead, are actually perfectly fine, they use purpose built LED projector lamps to have the correct pattern. Basically, if you haven't spent more than £250 quid on the LED lights + projectors, they will probably be pish. legalities aside an all that jazz.
  9. 1.6 tdci clutch change

    Hi Guys, sorry to resurrect this. So I'm getting some slip under heavy load now at 118k so not all that surprised, its not all the time but its noticeable, especially if i drop the hammer to overtake on single carriageway roads. So, been quoted just over 600 for the Clutch change and just under 900 for the Clutch and DMF, needless to say I'm not all that happy forking out ~500 on labour. So I'm looking about for gear: Clutch and pressure plate, DMF, CSC Is there anything else needed? drive shaft seals maybe? Next question, after searching around for manufactures, seems like LUK and SACHS seems to be the best cheap bet but whats the deal with mixing manufactures? I can get a CSC and clutch for about £150 from LUK but ive found a SACHS DMF for £230 but ive read several posts from other folk saying not to mix and match. whilst I'm sure its not ideal, i cant see why it wouldn't work but hopefully you guys can shed some light on it!? just seems that the LUK DMF is a fair amount more and the SACHS clutch kit is last question, does the DPF really need removed to get the box off? that's going to add a fair amount of time to get it done if it does :(
  10. suspension arms replacement

    there is a colour code to them.... blue and orange, i just cant remember which is which! if you check on the balljoint you will see (if you clean it up) a coloured ring. if the colours match then your all good. I'm almost positive that its blue for 21mm...
  11. Headlight bulb upgrade

    I honestly don't know if blue tinges are legit or not, seems a little daft as you say if that's the case, even perfectly legit Xenons can have a rather nifty blue / purple line around the cut off and as you also mention, a true blue from an ESV is instantly noticeable even after multiple reflections . I was under the impression that blue blue is a no no, higher wattage and crap patterns are still no, but less likely to get you in trouble unless your taking the pee. i wasn't aware that white blue tinges are illegal, pretty sure the MOT guide even says that lamps might have a blue tinge to the light coming out of them Many of the bulbs sold in Halfords are perfectly fine so long as they don't bump up the wattage to compensate for the reduced light output from filtered glass, which is essentially what all those "white" Halogens do.
  12. Forscan adaptations ??

    Forscan added a enhanced section awhile back which you have to request access too (PATs etc) there are some basic things that can be changed but i found it buggy compared to ELMConfig, i tried a couple of things and it was a bit hit and miss. apparently PATS programing is easy with it though, not tried it myself but its there and its free should you need it.
  13. Engine Malfunction

    Seems like there might be several ways of doing it then, pretty sure bet that they buggered it up though, i don't imagine they could in all good conscious charge you for a job that they didn't fix right in the first place.
  14. Headlight bulb upgrade

    I don't think the temperature was a problem, correct me if I'm wrong but theres nothing wrong with using fake xenon lights so long as the wattage is low (and has correct pattern) since all fake xenons use a filter to remove some of the yellow light, which should give you a clue as to where I'm going with this, it will never be brighter than a standard bulb. UNLESS, they use higher wattage bulbs, in which case your definitely being a bit naughty! But also remember, Not only will you probably be dazzling folk in front of you but also you will be drawing more current through a wiring harness that wasn't designed to take that amount of power and if your using reflectors, you will be pumping out more light than it was designed to reflect which might introduce a fair amount of scatter. All halogen bulbs have to balance the filtering of light with the desired amount of light output and colour, they become illegal to use on the road when the wattage is bumped up to compensate for the filtered light out put. Also, white light an i mean around the 5500 - 6000 range is utterly pish for seeing anything anyway. Its the same for folk who get 6000K HIDs then wonder why the output appears worse than their old halogens. Light absorption plays a bit part what you see but more importantly is wave length, the closer to Blue you get from red the shorter the wave length is which can scatter a lot more and not reflect back as well. (which is partly why we have red fog lights) obviously red light only reflects back red though which is a bit crap for seeing anything else. Yellow (@4500k) has the best balance for being able to see what is in front of you and scattering the least amount of light whilst doing it. as you push through 5000 to 6000 the scattering becomes a lot worse which is why it can look great if you stand in front of them but on the road they are less effective then regular halogens. Its pretty interesting stuff and its also why most OEM Xenons are less that 5000k
  15. Engine Malfunction

    They should have mapped out all this. I am err, "aware" of Euro4 DPF DV6 engines that have had their DPF "fixed" and there wasn't a problem with any sensor or module. all sensors and modules would still be in place and plugged in and it would run perfectly fine. I wonder if your local indy "specialist" used the Euro V version of his DPF software "fix" or something similar?