Dee_82

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Dee_82 last won the day on July 24 2016

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About Dee_82

  • Rank
    Ford Enthusiast
  • Birthday 09/09/1982

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  • First Name
    Darren

Profile Information

  • Gender*
    Male
  • Ford Model
    Focus MK2.5 1.6 TDCI
  • Ford Year
    2008
  • UK/Ireland Location
    Other/NonUK
  • Annual Mileage
    15,001 to 20,000

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  1. if the previous owner were recommended to change the belt it might well have been Halfords who recommend that it gets changed ever visit, perhaps the previous owner wasn't that clued up? Timing belts fail, or they don't, they don't produce much in the way of problems other than snapping, snapping a belt will ruin you day! Could it be the Aux belt you mean? typically connected the alternator and the aircon to the crank shaft
  2. ABS test kicks off at around 15mph which can sound like the engine has fallen off its mount when turning full lock at the same time. it will only do I once per engine off on cycle so if you come to a stop and try again without turning engine off it wont do it
  3. Yeah, its 265 on the rear, my conversion is perfectly setup now, slapping on 280s on the rear will bring too much brake bias to the rear, the danger being you end up locking the rears too early. The carrier is also different for the 280s, the 265 carrier is a lot smaller
  4. nope, it should be fine, I don't think there is a air flow sensor on this version. some had a wee sensor that measured airflow through the valve, blanking it would stop it and throw up a DTC error code. The problem you have is that its already showing a problem with the EGR which wont go away if you blank it. thankfully the 1.8 is about the most common engine in existence so parts are a plenty should the worst come to it. :) id defo give cleaning those connectors a shot before trying anything though a mates 1.8 in mondy had egr issues and its almost certainly an electrical issues rather than mechanical,
  5. you realise your going to have a whole bunch of people faceplant themselves trying left foot braking :D
  6. it wont hurt it but then it probably wont work either. you need to have these blanked off before they go wrong, if its unable to move due to it being caked in carbon then unless you get it clean, you will still have the problem, blanked or not blanked. Check out the electrical connector first, give it a good clean with contact cleaner, scrub it down, then do the same on the valve. a corroded connector might make the ECU think it has a problem when it doesn't. if your EGR valve is full of crap, then you will need to get it cleaned, replaced, or mapped out.
  7. that's the MTX75, the 5 gear box on the Mk2.5 - 280Nm is the design spec, not sure about the Mk3 box and what it uses. 150BHP on the 1.6 TDCI is interesting, on the older 1.6 on the Mk2.5 you would expect little more than 140, beyond that required BMW injectors, some complete nutter was cranking it up to 200, having the pots bored out, custom clutch and all sorts. it think it exploded or something equally horrible, dont remember seeing a "finished" post lol
  8. okie dokie, ill check that out, when you say coloured bands, what are you referring too? on the control arm, ball joint? I didn't recall seeing anything from under the car, I haven't yet checked from the side with the wheel off though. So if you had to chose between 1 which brand would you go with Dephi Lemforder* Fibi bilstein TRW Monroe moog Delphi are cheap as chips, some folk say they are good, some folk say they even make the ford parts, others say they are utter garbage. *Lemforder seem to get the best shout outs but don't make a 21mm complete version, Fibi seem a bit hit and miss, a lot of folk saying their bushes are terrible Ive seen some shoddy looking TWR ball joints on youtube, ive heard some ok stuff about Monroe but not much, some of it is bad Moog seems to have a good name but I cant seem much on them :/ so all in all, im completely none the wiser! :(
  9. ah, that's interesting, everything ive read said to replace the bolts, thanks for that. This is actually part of a bigger problem I'm having with the OS control arm, is it possible for Halfords to install a 19mm control arm when a 21mm arm is required, I'm getting single clunk under heavy braking, only the once, then after several hard accelerations I can do it again, brake, single clunk. I'm going to get her up on stands this weekend and check it out but the NS one is shot so will need done soon too
  10. I'm looking to change mine NS control arm soon, my OS one was done at Halfords, rather badly has it happens to get it through an MOT but the NS one isn't much better. Anyone have any preferences on branding? ford ones are about 160 quid or there abouts, but if anyone knows a manufacture who makes these ford ones and sell them for less, it would be really useful information to know! Delphi perhaps?
  11. Something else to consider is what bulbs are in there, if the previous owner slapped in some 6000k bulbs then they will look really bright and very white but are utterly useless for seeing things. Factory fitted Xenon bulbs tend to be around the 4500k mark, which gives them a white appearance but casts a white-yellowish beam, which is significantly better for seeing anything in the dark.
  12. the wheel is fine, the brake calliper was fine to touch but ill take a torque wrench to it to be sure. thanks yeah, not impressed at all. So does anyone have any thoughts on the MOT retest adding advisories that they couldn't see in an actual MOT test but was seen whilst doing work to the car after a fail?
  13. the control arm made a world of difference to the ride quailty, I only had the OS done at the garage but ill be doing the NS arm shortly, the bush on the old arm was wrecked as well. as to steering, hard to say, the NS control arm bushes are screwed so its hard to tell if its sharper due to the slight imbalance. but 100% it feels a lot smoother and even less road noise on bumpy roads. I had checked the drive shaft yesterday as well, it looks fine and there isn't any clunking whilst turning which is why I ruled out the CV joint. The best way I can describe it is like something heavy is pushed backwards eventually under hard acceleration, braking hard slides it forward and it clunks, but only once until it gets pulled bac again.
  14. The problem comes from the self adjusting clutches, not sure if the mk1 has one or not, I'm not 100% sure but from what I have read here and there, a self adjusting clutch will just let go without that much warning
  15. Hi guys, its been a while, been up to my eyes in work and my computer decided to melt in to a pool of goo. anywho, new PC and all is well in the world, except a wee problem with the car :( So car failed its MOT the other week, they said it was the OS ball joint, it had done 105k so I wasn't too supprised, I kinda knew something was amiss when driving to the garage (Halfords, my usual garage was getting their MOT bay replaced) on the way to the garage it developed a very loud clunking sound. So it failed on the ball joint and they replaced the whole control arm. The clunking sound didn't however go away, every bump and hump in the road it was clunk about, after 5 min look back at home it was the anti-roll bar link, it was almost completely off the bracket Fixed that and clunking gone....almost, now it didn't clunk under any suspension travel rough roads, lumps and bumps, you name it, its perfect, but it would clunk if I slammed on the brake, but only once, I then need to do some serious acceleration and then I can make it clunk again and so on, it is defo OS front and I can feel it on my feet. Yesterday I was doing an oil change and checked out the new control arm they installed wondering if that was not done up correctly, low and behold Halfords had only torqued the rear 2 bolts to about 110-120Nm, Spec says 175Nm. But the clunk persists any suggestions? Another wee question I had with the MOT which someone might be able to enlighten me on. whilst in an MOT the car is not to be dismantled so they wouldn't normally see some work above the engine shield, the DPF for example, but if you fail an MOT then they do some work under the car and then notice that the DPF has perhaps been tampered with, can they then put the car back together, restart the MOT then bring up the issue with the DPF even if it wasn't and still isn't visible at the actual MOT?