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      Posting in General Chat thread.   11/11/2017

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Dee_82

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Dee_82 last won the day on November 2

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About Dee_82

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    Ford Enthusiast
  • Birthday 09/09/1982

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  • First Name
    Darren

Profile Information

  • Gender*
    Male
  • Ford Model
    Focus MK2.5 1.6 TDCI
  • Ford Year
    2008
  • UK/Ireland Location
    Other/NonUK

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  1. DASHCam

    hold your horses guys, one thing you need to be aware of with SD cards is that no two cards are alike. also, just because a card is stating its the latest and greatest with mind blowing speeds, doesn't mean it will work. in fact there is no way of knowing what cards will work in a dash cam. ill not bore you all to death with the details but the key performance criteria is not the max read speed, its not even the max write speed, these are both sequential, ie, it records and plays like a vinyl record. the important number is actually the undisclosed RANDOM read / write speeds. due to the nature of a dash cam the data isn't recorded in what you might consider a logical order, its written all over the place in the largest free block of space which means when reading and writing the data is actually accessed from all over the card. So in short, you are just as likely to have a cheap asda card working then you would a sandisk. What I'm saying is, not go blowing a shed load of money on the card with the expectation that it will work. it probably wont. and in actual fact after looking in to dozens of cards from many manufactures from around the world, you more likely to get it working with a slower older card. note the "more likely" you could also get a blisteringly fast new card that works as well, but that's less likely :) in answer to your question, the card is the most likely problem unless you have some weird wiring setup or perhaps have a dirty live / ground feeding it
  2. errr... No :D Not really the kinda thing you want to experiment with either. just lock it and be happy its fine :)
  3. help focus driving me up the wall

    testing the alternator and battery and wiring isn't easily done without expensive equipment, just because it starts doesn't mean its fine. The alternator can introduce some wonky voltages, droops and spikes can play havoc with the car. My car started first time every time until the alternator started to go mental and cut out mid drive. if you want to see how well its working, plug in an OBD scanner and monitor a voltage to a module. turn the car on, then put on the lights and window demisters, front and rear, put the fan on for good measure and watch the voltages, the final kick in the balls for it is electric assisted power steering, without accelerating, turn the wheel to full lock. id expect the voltage to drop from around 14.4 to around 12 doing all that, if it drops to less than 12 then you may start to see issues, if it doesn't recover back to 14 when you stop turning, then your having electrical problems
  4. See, I'm not all that sure that makes sense either, at least on a common rail. the pressure is uniform across all injectors which fire at different times, id be very surprised if there is any meaningful or even measurable drop in pressure at the point of firing and lets face it, you don't buy a TDCI for "smooth running" lol on a good day she still sounds like a tractor :)
  5. fuel pump pulley has a locking hole which I used but its not timed (as far as I know) the crank pully is keyed. Its actually simple to do, once you get to it, that's the hardest part with this engine. turning the crank by hand wont cause you any bother, nothing will cook off, no fuel is being injected. cranking by hand is a big must to make sure its all sweet. as an added step I counted the teeth between points on the pulleys, so when I turned it a couple of times, she was bang on perfect on the first attempt. Just remember to take the fly wheel locking pin out before cranking it over :D
  6. Mass Air Flow Sensor

    a mate of mine swapped out a MAF sensor on his 1.8 TDCI, holy crap did it fly! I mean it was belching black smoke but it had an impressive pickup on acceleration! further examination showed that the sensor was reporting considerably more air then was present so was over fuelling it. good fun but not something you would want to keep :)
  7. add the rear dome light, scrappy, get the parts and wires, mark up, check and double check, cut the liner then mount the official rear dome.
  8. Bluefin on TDCI

    if there is any evidence to suggest you might lose your warranty with a Bluefin removable map, then it might be worth not doing that, however, ive not seen any evidence that is the case and none has been provided sooo, its your call. IMHO, adding a chip is the least desirable way of getting a performance increase. fooling the cars ECU, an ECU that spends a considerable amount of its processing making sure everything ticks along nicely, seems like a bad idea. but, in saying that, IF there is some truth in the claim that ford can somehow detect a remap and subsequent reversion back to stock then it might be a safer option, at least whilst its within warranty
  9. Breakdown - help!

    sounds like exactly what happened to me, my alternator was cooked. something went very wrong stopped charging the battery then decided to suck 120A out of the battery for good measure. The battery may or may not be any good but its largely irrelevant once your going. The alternator is the most likely suspect. Its about an hour an a half of a job, so around 60-70 quid. plus parts, I picked up a new 150A alternator for about 120, soa little shy of £200 squid. I have a 1.6 TDCI so your times and charges may vary depending what engine you have. id have done it myself (and was actually driving home with the alternator to do just that) when I conked out on the business road in Scotland. Mr AA man would only take me to the nearest garage though =, such is life
  10. Bluefin on TDCI

    I just cant see that as being true, if there's anything that's printed that agrees with that then id hold my hands up but warranty is upheld if taken to ANY garage these days, it doesn't need to be ford, so what if another non ford garage does something to the car? perhaps applies an update, perhaps they applied the update a couple of times because it didn't work correctly or they were attempting some diagnostics and change some of the settings, what if there was damage to the BCM that wouldn't be covered by warranty and it needed replaced / repaired, does that void the warranty of the whole canbus system? I can think of dozens of ways in which the BCM could be amended, which may or may not trigger a "count" don't get me wrong, I'm sure they will try and get out of any warranty wherever they can but firstly, I havnt seen any evidence that they do have a means of checking, and secondly, uphold it. Id love to read the info on this count, if you can point me to a link it would be really interesting. I know you like the mod chips, but if ford are going to go to the lengths of clamping down of remaps through complicated and expensive protection means, I'm also fairly sure they would simply log the data that your chip is erroneously injecting in to the system. that a 5 min job which doesn't require any new hardware or proprietary protection methods
  11. Alternator woes?

    that explains that then :) something is rubbing inside an I'm guessing it was getting pretty toasty to have blackened it so much.
  12. Bluefin on TDCI

    Whilst possible, its doubtful they would know what kinda of change was made. be interesting to read the paper with technical details of how they do that. Typically the whole ROM is overwriten which would trash any counters. But if they really wanted to its perfectly possible to record the info to a separate secure area that isn't changed. They could even go to extreme lengths and add fuses an all sorts but if folk really want to do it, theres always a way. BDM.
  13. Alternator woes?

    incidentally, the alternator was a crisp, the plastic was burnt, not melted but crispy black and brittle, the diodes were equally black and carried a really strong smell of burning. I'm trying to get inside but it seems fused together so I might need to cut it open. I'm not sure if its designed that way but the outer pulley rotes the inner spindle there is some resistance inside and a slight rubbing, but however the two are connected, it doesn't seem like its doing its job any more, I can freely rotate the pulley and stop it and the spindle will continue to move a few degrees
  14. Alternator woes?

    possibly, there are some other things that can interfere with it like earth points, damaged wires. But that was more or less what mine did to start with, it progressively got worse and ended up sounding like that video I posted. then, it died. Now mine was producing 14v until its final hours but if yours isn't dumping 13-14 V then you will run in to problems. replacing it isn't as easy it should be, pop the belt off, 4 bolts and the compressor is off and moved out the way, front and lower bolts easy enough to get off then comes the "its a 1.6 tdci focus so lets make it is awkward as possible" routine. That final bolt wont come out the way because of the DPF bracket, Haynes doesn't mention that but apparently you have to undo the bracket and move it as well, the DPF didn't need to come out but it did need its bracket moved, only needs an extra inch or so clearance. New one in and reverse.
  15. Problem with Starting Car

    how did you test the battery? unless you apply a load to it you can really test it, checking volts is a start but can often be misleading. From your description it doesn't sound likes its even turning over so If a jump didn't start it then either A, you didn't do it right, or B the starter wasn't doing its job. you got it going by pushing it which is essentially what the starter motor does anyway, so based on the limited info you have given, id be looking at that starter motor or wiring to it. checking fuses and relays where appropriate.