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Dee_82

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Dee_82 last won the day on April 27

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About Dee_82

  • Rank
    Ford Enthusiast
  • Birthday 09/09/1982

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  • First Name
    Darren

Profile Information

  • Gender*
    Male
  • Ford Model
    Focus MK2.5 1.6 TDCI
  • Ford Year
    2008
  • UK/Ireland Location
    Other/NonUK
  • Annual Mileage
    15,001 to 20,000

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  1. £1000 quid to change the IC? its a pain in the ***** job but you could do it for a fraction of that price, you can typically pick up an ECU, ignition barrel and IC for quite a bit less, it would mean having two keys (unless you got the door lock as well) being an auto might make it harder to find but you could get the lot from 70 quid to 270. there are a lot of TDCI parts so finding the right ones would be te hard bit
  2. Except to say that, its on for a reason, which can turn in to a world of hurt if ignored. intermittent faults, regardless of how small, shouldn't be overly worried about, certainly not a "take to the dealership ASAP and prepare to get bent over" situation but they shouldn't be ignored either. big problems usually start off as small problems, its wise to keep an eye on stuff and see what that little light is really saying.
  3. potential issues could be something on the CAN, due to the nature of the network a problem at any point could cause issues anywhere else. so a problem with ABS may cause problems with the PCM, problems with the HEC could cause issues with ABS etc. if it were me, the first thing I would do is use my ELM 327 device and use forscan to check out all the DTCs and see if that will help narrow things down. your not using any OBD devices whilst driving about are you? without seeing all the DTCs there isn't much to go on
  4. sounds like your garage is fishing for a problem and your paying for their guess work. Your power steering message, does that keep popping up?
  5. listed max torque on the MTX75 (if that's what you have) is ~280Nm Don't know what tolerance is built in to it but imho, id rather not find out ive exceeded it the hard way.
  6. Almost all mods you can do to the car will make virtually bugger all difference to performance. exhausts, induction kits, blanking EGR, all the simple stuff will make such a small difference, if any at all, that you wont notice it. BUT it will probably make it sound better which in turn will make you feel like its better so there is nothing wrong with doing them :) But to get any meaningful gain you are going to need it remapped. I'm actually about to invest in my own custom made water methanol injection which will make a small but noticeable difference. a Map will set you back about £200-300 and will work fine with the car. expect ~130 overall, you might find more powerful maps out there but id be a little concerned about the torque limits on the gearbox, I'm pretty sure the 135 remap puts the torque around the design limits of the box, I may be wrong with that but that's what I heard. Water Meth kit off the shelf, about 300-400, can DIY it for about half that. absolutely no idea what difference it will make, but at the very least it will cure cancer with its lowered NOx emissions, make the pistons and valves super clean and potentially increase torque a little through higher compression, more energy released forcing the piston down harder
  7. your changing the pump? that's an expensive start. do you have an ELM327 device and forscan to use? this will help narrow down the problem if you don't, we highly recommend picking up a device from http://www.spanglefish.com/TunnelratElectronics/index.asp?pageid=516992 Ive got a few of them and haven't found a dud. the chap is dead good if you need to contact him for anything as well
  8. diesels don't miss fire as such. do you mean that it losses power under acceleration which will feel like it hesitates.? If so then its probably your fuel filter, potentially DPF. Could be a bunch of other stuff too but fuel, either the filter or the pressure sensor, would be towards the top of my list.
  9. Careful if just turning it over, the engine doesn't have a pump in the tank, it relies on the fuel pump sucking its juice through. If you have air between the pump and the filter the fuel pump will just spin up and wear itself out (its lubed up by the fuel) suck the fuel in to the filter first, then using whatever you have to hand, fill the pipe to the brim that goes down to the pump. Using some Ninja skills connect the fuel line to the filter. job done. if you let that pipe going down to the pump run dry your going to have a problem and if you just keep on turning it over you will either flatten the battery or destroy your fuel pump.
  10. Nope, don't have a Mk3 ST, don't have an ST for that matter but I am in the middle of designing a system for my wee 1.6tdci :D yes I know it is not going to be a significant change but itll be fun to make :)
  11. Speaking of those infernal nut caps. Anyone know where more can be obtained? Damned things might very well be designed to stay on but mine are dropping like flys or making my car sound like santas sleigh an plus 1 for a breaker bar, they are a god send when you go to get a new tyre and afterwards find that a 16 year old kid "torqued" your wheel nuts up with a rattle gun.
  12. yeah, your talking some serious mods to get a NA petrol remapped with any meaningful results. as it is, you may be able to get about 10 extra ponies, given that you have probably lost some of those ponies over the years you might make 130, or there abouts. If you want to get some serious performance then look in to new cams, throttle bodies and perhaps there is a turbo mod out there for it. however, the first two alone plus a remap to get the benefit of them, will probably be in the region of £1000. Cams alone are around £500. in short, unless its a classic, your always better off buying the car you want rather than mod the crap out of it. :) Edit, I think ive seen mods taking this engine up to 210HP gonna cost you ££££
  13. http://ford.xtlt.ru/FoCCCus/
  14. that is exactly it. The system works be monitoring the rotation of wheels in relation with the rotation of other wheels, if one is moving quicker than another the computer takes that to be slipping so it applies a small amount of brake to slow the slip and hopefully get traction or at the very least get all the wheels rotating at the same speed. The problem in the snow and on ice is that you will be hard pushed not to spin up the wheels and in most cases, unless your a complete numpty who drives about in the snow 1st gear, that isn't a bad thing, you might need to spin up a little to be able to pick up some traction, this is mostly true when starting from a stand still. Once moving if the system is smart enough, it can help but every time you stop and need to start, all your efforts to get going might be hampered by the system clamping down on your brake, personally I don't like it running in the snow at all but then I have modified my steering to reduce the assist a fair amount and prefer to "feel" the road.
  15. indeed that is your EGR valve, if you take the fuel filter out of the bracket and tuck it away then remove the bracket itself, you will have plenty of space to get to both bolts.