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About Dee_82

  • Rank
    Ford Enthusiast
  • Birthday 09/09/1982

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  • Gender*
  • Ford Model
    Focus MK2.5 1.6 TDCI
  • Ford Year
  • UK/Ireland Location
  • Annual Mileage
    15,001 to 20,000

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  1. yeah, I'm inclined to agree, the car was in crash, it was at least partially fixed but not professionally, or at the very least, it was done on the cheap. there could be all sorts wrong that was fixed on the cheap or bodged. Where there is smoke, there is usually fire.
  2. what they cant see they cant fail, as long as the can is there its fine, gutting it is straight forward and is a permanent fix to the problem, they basically chop a hole in the bottom, chisel out the brick, then weld it back up, they will then apply a software fix to disable the DPF function.
  3. get a later 2009 or later focus and it will have the ceramic DPF, which is better, its still going to clog up but is better than the previous version. if you can find a 1.8 you wont have that problem albeit you will get lower mpg and higher tax. if it must be a 1.6 and before 2009, then you have little choice, gut it, replace it, try and clean it. All have their pros and cons
  4. mind that regens will only burn soot and then turn it in to ash, it will fill up and it will restrict airflow, which will have an effect your turbo spooling up and will give you a loss of poer, but as peter said, there are a lot of other things that can cause issues I thought most of them flagged an EML though
  5. heat is the issue, something with a largeish metal surround will help, the problem is how much space you have, I'm not sure about the mk3 but the mk2 has a very tight and awkward location for the sidelight. I had some cheapo Halfords ones, they lasted a few days, I got some even cheaper ones from china which look like knocked off Cree LEDs and after I fixed them up and they have been good for a few months, the build quality was terrible as you would expect but a bit of solder here and some glue there and they have been ok
  6. I live in a pretty dodgy area, no one batters an eye at it, the front cam is pretty well hidden if installed correctly. plus you should declare it to your insurance company, might get a discount but if nothing else its covered if its nicked! course if you get one with a massive screen on it, which is just pointless, then it will stand out a lot more. Yeah, we don't have an answer, but rather than say nothing and leave you hanging we have tried to help you and anyone else who stumbles on this thread make a good informed decision on their cam and fitting it.
  7. ah, that's a bit more than I was looking to folk out when you include the shipping, there is no urgency just now, just one of those things I keep an eye on fleebay for.
  8. that's understandable, just out of interest, whats your asking price for that diffuser? that's the legit ford one with the skirt if I remember correctly? The sensors themselves are simple enough, its controlling them that's the problem, id need to get it connected via a GPIO which is basically a serial port. the tricky bit is getting software that will be able to work with that data, I have some ability to do this stuff but unless I can find someone that's already done something like it ill be up against it. Sal, is that the android HU you were talking about? I was looking towards android as an OS to run on the Pi but its the getting software that can listen to data from the new sensors, I did toy with the idea of replacing my Windows CE HU with an android one but as you will have noticed, the location of that screen on the HU makes it a pure nightmare to see when theres some sunlight. that's what attracted me to the pod, with the overhanging hood it should reduce that a lot!
  9. My camera is the think ware F750 dual cam Its just been superseded by the F770, however I have discovered that the two units are actually identical in all ways bar looks and that you can add all the features of the 770 to the 750 with a simple update. Unless you are particularly fond of the F770 looks, you can just buy a F750 and convert it saving you some pennies :) if you check out the forums on here you will find loads of info on all sorts of camera, the front page has a list of cams, you may notice that some of them look suspiciously like other branded cams you have seen, that's because they are problem identical rebadged clones. I wouldn't pay too much attention to the cameras on that list, it doesn't get updated all that good and some of devices are a little old now or missing. the forums are the best place to go. On that site you will even find a whole bunch of manufactures and developers who will usually listen you, most of them tend to be Chinese tbh, but the ones on there that do contribute tend to be striving for a better product. anyhow, that's the best place for finding out stuff about dashcams Couple of points to consider. Bitrate - Higher the bitrate the clearer the image and less artefacts it will have, if anyone has watched a shoddy old DVD recorded on to a computer that's only a few hundred MB you will know what I mean. Resolution - 1080p vs 720p your better off having 1080p at a lower bit rate rather than 720p at a higher bit rate. field of view, 140ish degrees, anything less and you will loss whats going on to the sides. Front and Rear? Do you need a rear camera? nope, you don't need one, but answer yourself this, if someone runs in to the back of you and does a runner, will you be quick enough to memorise the number plate possibly in a mirror before they get out of view? 1 single claim against your insurance for something not your fault could potentially cost you a lot more than the cost of a camera. Front rear quality - Generally speaking, if you have a single cam, it will probably record in a higher quality, a dual cam setup places a lot more strain on the recording unit and so the quality tends to be slightly less, not significantly so, but enough to cause artefacts in tree lined roads (lots of detail to record) or lower light conditions, youll get more noise and blocking. Supercaps! parking mode!
  10. Not every dash cam is equal, batteries in dashcams are not generally speaking all that good, the reason is that they suffer big time when they get hot, they are usually also not replaceable meaning when the battery dies you might find the functionality of it is seriously reduced, they also tend to be of Chinese origin, which are usually just rebadged units sold to the masses, you can normally find much cheaper versions than what you will find in Halfords etc. The other big producers of far superior cameras are the Koreans, they tend to be more expensive, they tend to have true parking mode, use supercaps and are of much better quality. Most good dashcams use super capacitors, they provide enough power to finish recording in the even of an accident by keeping the unit powered if the battery is disconnected, they are not supposed to power a camera for any length of time. Most good cameras have proper parking mode, this is a mode that turns the camera to record at a reduced FPS / bitrate whilst the engine is off (like the video I posted), this will use the car battery, however most good cameras have a low battery cut off that will disable the camera should it detect the battery is loosing some of its charge. this is normally enough to allow recording through out the night without any bother, because I do a lot of driving I can get two nights and days on the trot before it turns off. I have never had a flat battery, even on the coldest of mornings wiring in a proper camera with parking mode usually consists of connecting an earth cable to any earth point (most metal fixings within the car) there will be an always on live connection and an ACC power supply (on when engine is on) then by using you just need to find a valid fuse in the fuse box, take that fuse out, then plug that fuse in to this piggy back adaptor, plug the piggy back adaptor in to the fusebox (in the position you just took the fuse from), do that for both always on and ACC and the job is done, just route the cables around the car above the headliner..
  11. there really isn't anything hard about hard wiring these things in, you need a hardware kit obviously, one specific for your camera and 1 or 2 biggy back fuses depending if you get a camera with parking mode or not. Parking mode is in my opinion the single most important feature you want on a camera, if someone reverses in to your car whilst you aren't in it, your screwed.
  12. the 1.8 didn't have a DPF and isn't used on the mk3, my mates mondy which is 2010 uses it but ive not seen a focus newer than 2009. the engine is a bit of a tank, noisy and rock solid, I think its just clutch and DMF you need to watch for, I think the EGR valves can bit a bit twitchy but if its in good nick then its supposed to be bomber. mpg is a little low mind.
  13. ah, I see, thats fair enough, was wondering if something had gone wrong or didn't work out, if id have known about the exhaust I might have been interested in that, I need to do some serious thinking about the Pod though, analogue gauges would be the easiest solution but if I could get a digital display working it would be great and much easier to mount, could even connect up a GPS to it and put the stock ford DAB radio back on it, the only issue is the sensors, id need digital sensors and a means to then connect that to the Pi via its GPIO ports, its a pretty big project. you pulling any other bits off I might be interested in? ;)
  14. Daylight robbery getting someone to fit it, and if your only going for a front camera then its even easier.
  15. curious to know what the reason for ditching the mod was Lenny? I'm just looking at it doing something myself, maybe even installing a Raspberry Pi with a screen to provide custom gauges tho a bit of me is thinking the real gauge looks much better than a screen.