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Dee_82

FOC Supporters
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About Dee_82

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  • First Name Darren

Profile Information

  • Gender* Male
  • Ford Model Focus MK2.5 1.6 TDCI
  • Ford Year 2008
  • UK/Ireland Location Other/NonUK
  • Annual Mileage 10,001 to 15,000
  • Interests Motorsport & Racing
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  1. My First Elm327 Scan Results Are In

    you should use the commanded EGR and actual EGR as well as RPM, it will give you a much better idea what's going on
  2. Anti roll bar drop links replaced, no more knocking, Yay! think ill do the rears as well

  3. Focus 1.6 tdci 2008 turbo issue

    risky business, the facts are these, turbos don't blow for no reason, its being starved of oil.  the problem with just changing a turbo is that the crap in the oil is still there waiting to block and fry the next turbo. clean the pipes, clean the sump and make sure there isn't any crap around the engine and your all good, im thinking the last bit is the tricky bit tho    
  4. that's a fair point, I don't know, but the same could be said for the exhaust gasses as well tho, if there isn't any suction would it vent the crank case fully?
  5. take a look inside the inlet manifold and you will see how bad it is, especially if you haven't blocked up the EGR valve, the IC also gets covered and remember that the 100ml my can normally collects would have had to go somewhere.  Collecting in the IC, binding with soot in the EGR, working its way through the inlet manifold in to the engine, all that crud either getting burnt finding its way back in to the sump or just building up is one of the reasons for turbos getting starved of oil.  its like a sticky black paste, cleaning out the manifold is on the list of jobs to do as my endoscope showed some horrible build up further inside.  
  6. nope, well not if you want to remain road legal.   its apart of the emissions system, by running a pipe under the car you effectively adding a second exhaust.  If you get it wrong you might end up pumping gasses in to the cabin and you will be dumping a surprising amount of oil on the road.  My can collects about 90-100ml every 6k. there are catch cans that have a small vent attached to them, these are also no good, to keep it legit you need to keep it in a closed loop system, ie, no venting.
  7. Thumping Knocking noise when turning left

    the traction control makes a hell of a noise, as mentioned above it might just be that.  I have a small stretch of road which has a left bend and a slight hump, if I kick the balls out of it around there I get some lateral drift and wheel spin, sends the TC system in to a  right fit :D Ive never known a more noisy system so I'm not sure if that's normal on the focus or not but its certainly what happens with mine.      
  8. focus 1.6 tdci issues

    it is, but after swapping out a headlamp on my mums 06 Toyota Corolla it hit me that headlamp removal on the focus mk2.5 is possibly the easiest I have ever known.  On that Toyota you had to drop the whole front bumper or if that didn't work because of a poorly designed set of screws rusted solid, remove the wing! nope, when it comes to removing headlamps, ford did get that right! :)
  9. focus 1.6 tdci issues

    certainly I think there are "better" engines out there, the 1.8, the 2 tdci being two of them but you kinda have to give them some credit for the 1.6, its an extremely efficient engine, yeah it had some issues to start with but I think it s what the 3 or 4th revision of it now? an I doubt its any worse then any other engine and I doubt even the older versions if well looked after are any worse.  What they should have done is tell the dealers to inform the customers about how to use it and kick Brown in the balls for making a mess of the car tax system.    I would just like to find out who designed it and shoot them, things like having to remove half the front of the car to take the sump off or remove the complete rear subframe to get to the fuel filler pipe and dismantle the fuel system / egr to get to the glow plugs , stupid stuff that someone should have sense checked long ago.  
  10. focus 1.6 tdci issues

    they really are not that bad, if you look at 2009 onwards you should get one with a ceramic DPF which is significantly better than the old one, but do keep in mind that any DPF, regardless of how its been driven will fill up, it will then have a wearing effect on the engine due to increased back pressure, it will reduce the efficiency of the turbo and can contribute to the turbo failing.  The turbo wont be an issue if you change the oil every 6k, keep an eye on the injectors leaking, blank off the EGR valve and ideally install an oil catch can on the breather, if nothing else do the oil and EGR  don't believe all the doom and gloom, the trick is finding a car that hasn't been neglected or been driven 10 miles a day for 6 years, ideally one post 2009, my 2008 car 'had' the old DPF and they had changed the oil feed pipe lines for the turbo by this point too so less chance of it cooking the oil off but I'm fairly sure post 2009 they sorted the DPF out as well.. She is a noisy engine tho, don't expect it to be quiet and there are some interesting design decisions, such as the oil filter placement, DPF removal, inlet manifold removal  
  11. if I remember correctly ELMConfig relies on it knowing the hardware and software version of your PCM, I think there was some issues way back because the chap is Russian and whilst the PCMs are similar they are not the same, be interesting to see if yours is any different to ours.. Id be extremely cautious of downloading anything and "just flashing" it. Guess work is not a ROMs best friend! Tom, I had to flash on mine, everything else worked but until I did the PCM it refused to actually function, lights work work but that was all, in fact I think it even generated an error code whenever I tried to use it, that was from an older version of elmconfig tho so it might have been fixed now. I think the biggest issue with flashing anything via OBD is the device we use, just because it supports instruction sets X and Y, it mean it will support set Z, that could be something as simple as the device telling the PCM to reboot, which it fails to do and thus leaves in it a damaged state.  Before you start flashing random files again, id suggest trying a different elm 327 device first, ideally one that you know works.  Not all ELM327 devices are the same, even if they look it!      
  12. What should I look out for?

    your biggest concern is the DPF, if its been driven poorly it might be full depending on millage, with a diesel you'd ideally want to see evidence of regular servicing, long distance  mileage and not driven around towns for the last 4 years,
  13. the DPF will fail and it will fail with little to no warning, unless you can identify when the car does active regens, the frequency of these will help you understand whats going on,  at some point however the ECU will say enough is enough and will shove it in to limp, if you have reached  a point where the car cant physically get up to temp because of backpressure then your screwed, a forced regen can help clean down soot build up but this doesn't fix the ash problem.  you need to remember, even with regens active, passive or forced, they don't remove the problem, they limit it  by reducing soot down to smaller ash but eventually ash will build up and it will block the DPF, there is no magic cure. The Ceramic DPF mpr1956 has is an updated DPF that gets up to temp a lot quicker meaning it burns off soot a lot easier, it does however have the same problem that it will fill up with ash and will need replacing. any DPF is a ticking bomb  
  14. That's very high, mine peaks at 280 but isn't sustained, I cant imagine pulling 330Nm through the box is going to be healthy in the long run
  15. id expect that for a dyno remap Tom, I bet it isn't tho.