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Dee_82 last won the day on July 24 2016

Dee_82 had the most liked content!

About Dee_82

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    Ford Enthusiast
  • Birthday 09/09/1982

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  • Ford Model
    Focus MK2.5 1.6 TDCI
  • Ford Year
  • UK/Ireland Location
  • Annual Mileage
    15,001 to 20,000

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  1. I believe the ESP needs a little more than a button to get working, I don't think it has the correct connections, heated seats will require a load of extra work as would heated demist front and rear, i think the passenger airbag deactivation is straightforward though
  2. as to the actual fault, low pressure warnings and a regulator fault, there is a regulator on the fuel pump I believe, if that is screwed then your in for an expensive repair bill, those fuel pumps cost a fortune, not sure if the regulator can be replaced on its own. I had a pressure sensor fail on me which caused me some isues, swapped it out and all was good in the world but the other areas it could have been where the fuel pump and or regulator, had it been those id have not been happy! How did you test the pump / regulator / sensor?
  3. nope, the fuel pump has two stages, one part sucks up the fuel, the other is for the fuel rail. The problem is that if there is air in the line down to the fuel pump, you will just be spinning that pump up without sucking fuel, even if there is a small amount of fuel in it, it still wont be able to create enough suction to pull fuel out of the filter, let alone from the tank. personally I find the best way is to disconnect the line going down to the pump and keep it upright with some clamps, swap the filter out then fill the filter, take a small syringe and fill it with diesel, then fill up the upended fuel line going to the pump, once its full to the brim get everything out the way and with superman speeds connect up the line to the filter, you will drop some fuel but try and keep it to a minimum, with the line mostly full the pump can suck fuel down, the small pocket of air will move with it but after that the fuel will also get sucked down from the filter, it should all be good after that.. for the price of our fuel filters id have liked to have seen a priming pump attached to it but alas we just need to deal with it as best as we can.
  4. That maybe so, but the MOT is a little less black and white.... "Vehicles equipped with High Intensity Discharge (HID) or LED dipped beam headlamps may be fitted with headlamp washers and a suspension or headlamp self levelling system. Where such systems are fitted, they must work; however, it is accepted that it may not be possible to readily determine the functioning of self levelling systems. In such cases, the benefit of the doubt must be given. Headlamp washers may work in conjunction with the windscreen washers (when the dipped beam headlamps are switched on) or by a separate switch" and is nicely summarised in this article.... the whole thing is as clear as mud but I suspect the spirit of the law is as Autoexpress depicts. Reflector HIDs = Bad, Projector HIDs with correct pattern = Fine, Projected HIDs on cars after 2010 = Should have working levellers and washers. Interestingly my local garage was telling me that there isn't any guidelines at all of what constitutes as "working" he reckons you could tape up some silicone hose to the outside of the car with a squeezy bottle in the car and it would constitute as a washer system and they cant test for the levellers properly either.
  5. the washers and levellers "law" in England Scotland and wales isn't strictly speaking true. since there are cars out there with factory xenon's and no levellers and washers it would be a bit harsh to make them illegal. the MOT guide lines state that IF the car has levellers and washers then they must be working, it doesn't say they must have them. The biggest problem is those stupid reflector kits which will fail an MOT and blind the buggery out of other cars. But my retro fitted morimoto mini H1s with 4300k bulbs have a fantastic beam pattern, they look OEM and the beam is sport on, no problems yes. I suspect the wiring fails are more to do with 55w HIDs, the current draw on those are pretty high as is the heat they generate. 35w HIDs shouldn't cause you any bother and if you do it right, then you should only use the headlight harness to power a relay and not the blubs, the blubs get powered directly from the battery with a separate inline fuse and controlled via the relay. basically, if someone has melted a harness or fuse box, they did it wrong.
  6. what engine do you have? 1.6 tdci doesn't and I'm almost positive the 1.8 tdci doesn't either
  7. after letting the system sit for a while you might get a small amount of pressure, maybe 10-PSI but it shouldn't really be anything, just let it sit for a few min, you can actually watch it drop if you use forscan, turn the ignition on but leave the engine off, there isn't a fuel pump so you will see an accurate pressure. getting to the sensor is a bit of a fiddle, youll find it easier if you pull the scuttle panel off and move the filter out of the way. just before you start tho, you did try taking the connector off and cleaning the terminals? if water has got in there it might have corroded the terminal which would introduce / reduce some resistance and mess up the sensor good luck
  8. is that right for the mk2?i just looked at mine and there isn't anything on the front unless the auto light sensor is used, which will be well out of the way of the camera.... I thought the quick clear connected to the metal earth point on the roof? there is certainly something connected to the window up there,
  9. if its related to the window then a good place to take a look would be the earth point at the top of the window, that links the outside window circuits to the inside GEM, you would probably be getting a whole bunch of shorting out DTCs if water was the problem
  10. depending on your dash cam it might have a voltage droop cut off which may explain the camera going on and off. as for the rear view mirror not dimming that's controlled by GEM itself so perhaps it also has some kinda of voltage protection circuit, if GEM detects low voltage maybe it shuts off certain things? as for why its droping so much with the engine on, that's not so good, you would expect any cut off to be at Round 12v, so if it hitting that level when the engines on... Forscan (or multi meter) it and see whats up, pretty sure ELMconfig will show you the voltage for each module as well
  11. not expense my bottom, the 1.6 TDCI fuel filter is the most expensive fuel filter I have ever replaced! it should be changed every 12k but that wouldn't explain your DTCs
  12. I was in luck, the closest (only) garage near by where AA could tow me were actually pretty on the ball. before he even connected up the gear he said its either the filter or the sensor, as he got his stuff setup I opened up my traces to show him and after a brief chat he said that would be his best guess baed on what he sees, there was a chance he said it was the regulator but 99% of the issues his seen were sensor related and the cut outs are just the ECU killing itself before it causes damage which makes perfect sense. Of course it was late in the day on a Friday so I had to get the train home and leave it there over the weekend. the filter was due a change anyway so I just got him to change that as well so it was 50 for the filter (damn ford metal filters!!) 100 for the sensor and 100 for labour, the remaining 50 was my train fair there and back :) When you go in to a place where the price list says 45 quid per hour 55 quid per hour if you want to watch 65 quid an hour if you offer advice 75 quid an hour if you mention youtube you know they must be alright guys lol thankfully he must have found my help useful as I even had a small discount :)
  13. haha, sorry, nothing wrong with the upload other than the person uploading it. this is what I was supposed to link... fuel rail sunday cut out.fsl.txt
  14. a fuel rail sensor issue with give you spikes and or low pressure warnings but it will be inconsistent, forscan is fantastic for taking readings of the fuel rail to see whats going on. if you download forscan then download this attachment, rename this file to fuel rail sunday cut out.fsl for some reason we cant post anything useful on here other than pictures so rename the txt file to .fsl open forscan and go to the "read PID data" option on the left. you don't need to connect to the car or anything open that attachment and scroll along to the 1450 second mark. youll see the fuel pump usage go a little mental and get progressively worse until around 1570 seconds. you'll also see the fuel pressure go mental with the pump. at 1575 seconds the car cuts out at around 70mph the the pressure spikes are literally maxed out, at around 1600 seconds you'll see I tried to restart it a few times, I didn't come to a full stop eventually I got it going again then stabilised whilst I eased her home. that problem happened on a newish fuel filer, around 4k used, after replacing the filter it seemed to fix it for a while but it happened again, this time it was totally gabbed and I was stranded a few hundred miles away from home in the middle of nowhere. 300 quid later the sensor was pulled out and replaced, ive kept an eye on sensor readings and its been perfect since, that sensor is fairly easy to replace so I was raging that I had to get a garage to do it but theres not much you can do when stuck away from home like that.. fuel rail sunday cut out.txt
  15. most common two things that can go wrong with the fuel system are the fuel filter, which you should change every 12k and secondly the high pressure fuel sensor, that's a small sensor that connects to the end of the fuel rail just under the fuel filter facing the battery. check and clean the terminals on it, worse case replace it. its a really common problem and will stop the car dead if it throws out odd readings. airlocks are a pure pain in the ***** but unless one of the seals is knackered it shouldn't be a problem once its working.