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mark1982

Budding Enthusiast
  • Content count

    15
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About mark1982

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Profile Information

  • Ford Model Mondeo
  • Ford Year 2003
  • UK/Ireland Location West Midlands
  • Annual Mileage 10,001 to 15,000
  1. Mondeo Mk3 53 Plate - Oil Filter Leak

    Yep, I'm clearly fitting this wrong. There just doesn't seem to be a deep enough recess for the O ring to fit. I'll check again.
  2. Mondeo Mk3 53 Plate - Oil Filter Leak

    Ford filter on order. I think I have been fitting the O ring at the wrong point. Is it supposed to roll to the bottom of the cap or sit a bit off the bottom? The way mine is fitted now the O ring is visible, I'm starting to think this is wrong.
  3. Mondeo Mk3 53 Plate - Oil Filter Leak

    threads look good, filter screws in with no problem. The seal (o-ring) look fine - not sure how changing this could help? Are there different types of O rings? I better point out this wasn't a genuine Ford oil filter, i'm starting to think this may be the problem. Are Ford seals better than after market products?? Thanks,
  4. Mondeo Mk3 53 Plate - Oil Filter Leak

    This is a tread I started a while a go but the problem remains and is becoming increasingly annoying!! After further investigation it appears the leak is actually when the engine is off (not what I originally thought). As the oil settles at the lowest point the seal may as well not be there as the it just leaks out (slow drip). The car is parked on a slight slope hence the leak is to one side, could this cause the problem? I've also noticed when looking at possibly replacing the oil filter housing, all images show the cassette screwed snug to the housing. I checked mine and the cassette will not screw tight to the metal, a gap of about 3mm is visible, presumably for the seal?!? I tested this by removing the seal and refitting without filter or seal but the gap remains. Can anyone confirm what is correct here. see here for example picture On another note, does anyone know how to get oil off of tarmac??
  5. Mondeo Mk3 53 Plate - Oil Filter Leak

    Yes seal was fitted square and snug, looked to be fine once tightened up. It was just when the engine started the seal bulged. Too much pressure sounds likely, do you know where to start looking into this likely cause? I noticed the filter cap actually has a hole in the side where the thread is. I initially thought this was the problem and was going to buy a new one, only to find the replacement would have the same hole. What is this hole for?
  6. My car has developed a slight oil leak. It looks like it's coming from the oil filter cap, the part that unscrews holding the filter. There's no visible signs the oil is leaking above the filter cap so I presume it's leaking from the seal. I noticed the rubber seal was slightly bulging at one side. I replaced the seal and filter and all looked fine. Turned the engine to check and top up oil and the new seal bulged again and a small amount of oil leaked out. Anyone know how to fix this?
  7. Mondeo 53 Rear Brake Caliper Seized

    Thanks for your help on the above, passed MOT yesterday with only a couple of advisories. One being the handbrake passes but could be tighter. I know the handbrake can be tightened by removing the heat shield and tensioning the cable, but as the handbrake holds I'm guessing its on the limit before the piston pushes out a bit more to add more tension. Would this be correct? Knowing the piston pushes out when the handbrake is pulled pulling the lever on the caliper, is it correct that the piston only moves when the lever has say 90% travel or does the piston push out with 1% travel from the lever? Thanks again!
  8. Mondeo 53 Rear Brake Caliper Seized

    One brake caliper done however, two copper washers were supplied with the new caliper which I cannot figure how to use. I've read the washers act as a seal between the caliper and the brake line, the brake line screws in tight to the caliper but leaves a gap between the brake line and the caliper. Therefore if the washers were on they would just float about. Also there were no washers on the old caliper. Can anyone advise on this before I do the next? I will be changing the rear wheel bearing, can anyone advise on the correct torx size to remove the torx bolts (think its T50) and also the length the torx bit needs to be to reach the head of the bolt? Front wishbones also need changing, I've read that the bush next to the hub is the most stubborn. Would you suggest investing in a ball joint splitter? Also, the back bolt sounds like this could be interesting as the bolt goes up - any tips here? Cheers.
  9. Mondeo 53 Rear Brake Caliper Seized

    Calipers on order, will let you know how it goes. I've never removed the brake line from a caliper before, is there anything I should be looking out for? Does the brake line undo at the caliper or further up the line?
  10. Mondeo 53 Rear Brake Caliper Seized

    So I checked the pins, they looked straight. Wound the piston back in but the lever on the back of the caliper still won't budge without a lot of force. With the handbrake off the cable can be pushed back and forth through the sheath with ease. I've also noticed when the handbrake is taken off, I can hear the cable dropping on to the heat shield. I gather this is because the springs on the caliper are not putting any tension in to the cable. The drivers side rear caliper seems to be in a bad shape too, although the handbrake does have some hold just not enough to support the car. What's strange is that the lever hardly seems to budge when the handbrake is put on for this side. I'm guessing two new calipers should fix the issues. My only other thought is the handbrake needs adjusting, or is the adjuster just used for refining and not for making a handbrake work?
  11. Mondeo 53 Rear Brake Caliper Seized

    So I checked the pins, they looked straight. Wound the piston back in but the lever on the back of the caliper still won't budge without a lot of force. With the handbrake off the cable can be pushed back and forth through the sheath with ease. I've also noticed when the handbrake is taken off, I can hear the cable dropping on to the heat shield. I gather this is because the springs on the caliper are not putting any tension in to the cable. The drivers side rear caliper seems to be in a bad shape too, although the handbrake does have some hold just not enough to support the car. What's strange is that the lever hardly seems to budge when the handbrake is put on for this side. I'm guessing two new calipers should fix the issues. My only other thought is the handbrake needs adjusting, or is the adjuster just used for refining and not for making a handbrake work?
  12. Mondeo 53 Rear Brake Caliper Seized

    Cheers. I'll have a look at the pins and go from there.
  13. Mondeo 53 Rear Brake Caliper Seized

    I'll recheck the pins first. I'll also remove the caliper from the pins and try to push the piston out by moving the lever, if it still doesn't budge I guess I can safely say it's the piston at fault. Thanks for the link above, do you know the ebay sellers name? The link only shows the expired item.
  14. Mondeo 53 Rear Brake Caliper Seized

    Thanks for your reply. I had the slider pins out and they looked straight, greased them up and put them back. Would the slider pins affect the piston? I was thinking the pins only came in to play when the brakes were used? What's your thoughts on replacement calipers, scrap yard? cheap ones off ebay? or fords own?
  15. Hi, Hoping someone can help this one. I have a 53 plate mondeo with a sticking rear caliper causing the handbrake to fail on one side. I'll keep this short, the handbrake stuck on causing the wheel bearing to overheat, requiring a new wheel bearing. This was replaced along with new pads and discs but I still have the issue with the caliper siezing, although as the handbrake is not working on this one side it doesnt stick the handbrake on causing it to overheat - again. When I fitted the new pads I wound back the piston on the caliper. When I checked the other day I can see that the piston has wound out, yet the handbrake arm on the rear of caliper will only move back and forth with brute force (hammer). Could it be that the piston is getting stuck halfway out due to corrosion? If so, can these things be cleaned up and refitted or is it simpler to buy a new part? I thought is was the handbrake cable which attaches to the caliper, which in turn pulls the arm which pushes the piston out - is this correct? Any guidance appreciated as MOT is looming. Thanks.