madmole

Budding Enthusiast
  • Content count

    496
  • Joined

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About madmole

  • Rank
    Serial Poster
  • Birthday

Contact Methods

  • First Name
    Stephen

Profile Information

  • Gender*
    Male
  • Ford Model
    Focus Mk3 Titanium Navigator
  • Ford Year
    2013
  • UK/Ireland Location
    Surrey
  • Annual Mileage
    5001 to 10,000
  • Interests
    General Automotive
    Car Modification

Previous Fields

  • Location
    Staines

Recent Profile Visitors

2,194 profile views
  1. Nope, I've been looking for 3 years, no luck. we are the most common focus engine, but they only seem to make them for the very few ST's and RS's
  2. Spider Arachnid tuning chip and a K&N filter with a snorkel delete
  3. WD40 always shifted it when I worked at a breakers
  4. I have the Spider Arachnid on my 115 1.6 TDCI which has taken her to 153 HP and 340 torque. Been there for 25K miles now without a hitch and still brings a smile to my face. I can change the setting on the fly from economy,through 4 fast road setting to race. I can remove in in 5 mins to return car to standard. I can also wheelspin through to third gear in the wet!!!! So far gearbox has been fine, but I did fit an uprated rear mount early on which stops a lot of issues Oh and I fitted a whitelines rear anti roll bar to level her out and it has improved the handling no end
  5. Lack of back pressure, so when your injectors fire, most is going straight out the exhaust port (the openings overlap). Its over scavenging. So it detects the loss of powers and overfuels massively to make up for it?
  6. Its in the owner manual as are the instructions for jump starting and charging Basically always put the earth lead on the body charging post to the right of the battery and you will have no problems NEVER disconnect the battery while the engine is running, That will do damage
  7. £5 small petty cash box on ebay, file a hole for cable and lock original OBDC port in it. Its so restricted space under the dash they wont be able to jemmy or pick it. Cheap and works. Combined on mine, with moving the original and wiring a fake to put 12v on all the wrong terminals and earth on the normal 12v so it melts the thiefs device
  8. Just remember earth lead ON last and OFF first. Connect earth to the body charging point and red to the battery live terminal. It does actually say all that in the manual
  9. Lock and unlock the car with the plipper a few times. It needs to see the stronger signal to cancel the message
  10. And that article claiming that LEDs/bulb are not on the Can bus and that LEDs have near infinite resistance needs to go back to school and learn some basic electronics. LED's have very little resistance, hence they don't get so warm and the bulb failure sensor thinks there is no bulb. You have to add resistance to the circuit to fool the car into thinking a normal bulb is there. Can bus safe LED's have the resisters inbuilt to increase the resistance
  11. Rear engine mount too soft allowing engine and gearbox to move too much. Fit a stiffer one or an insert and problem should resolve
  12. Similar here, water in a connector inside door. Apparently seen before by my dealer
  13. £50 and 1 hour if you fit a non ford one. I run the wire across the roof above the lining and have the screen attached to my rear view camera. I have 2 cameras on mine, a reversing one in the original location by the number plate that activates on reverse and a rear view one that is on all the time Much cheaper than ford and the screen is where you are looking when you reverse, ie by the mirror
  14. Obviously a short somewhere, did you bend/break or pinch a wire? or manage to put the plug back on wrongly? I'd go check/ If that looks ok, put the original bulbs back in. I that sorts it its the new bulbs (unlikely)
  15. Archoil AR6400-D is about the best of the pour in cleaners