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Budding Enthusiast
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About madmole

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    Serial Poster

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  • Ford Model
    Focus Mk3 Titanium Navigator
  • Ford Year
  • UK/Ireland Location
  • Annual Mileage
    5001 to 10,000
  • Interests
    General Automotive
    Car Modification

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  1. Had a set in the Landy for over 7 years (can bus), no issue, always passed MOT and survived many a dunk in a lake. Current set have been in the focus Mk3 for 2 years with no issues. My experience is that reasonable quality, metal bodies LEDs are very reliable
  2. I'd be careful, judging by his door your neighbour is Edward scissorhands
  3. It's the rear engine mount. They are very soft and do allow a lot of engine rotation. You can get a stiffer one or a poly bush insert that just slots in. Easy to change and transforms the pull away
  4. On my mk3 1.6tdci, the K&N re[placement filter (not open) gave +3 HP I then added a Spider Archnid tuning chip that took me to 153 HP and 330 Torque (from 115/240) Surprised how little the Bluefin added above, but then the ecoboosts are already turbo'd pretty hard by ford
  5. I believe its the cam belt under there
  6. It sounds like its once per cam revolution rather than per valve/piston. Hence a belt, maybe a tensioner has gone
  7. Yours is the older 1.6, the 2013 focuses and above have a revised 1.6 that's cured a lot of the issues around oil feed and the turbo That noise sounds like the cam belt or auxiliary belt is slapping. it definitely got louder and sharper when the camera was at the left end. Get a long tube and listen down it. Use the tube like a stethoscope to home in on exactly where the noise is coming from (careful with the ends near the belt). Doesn't sound good though and I would fix sooner rather than later or you may be getting the new focus a bit quicker than planned Good luck S
  8. That mount has broken at the tip of the bolts that were too short. If they had been full length they would have stripped the thread lower down, but didn't. this is solely the fault of whoever put the wrong bolts on when the cam belt was done, or didn't screw the right bolts down fully You shouldnt be paying a thing for this
  9. It's actually analysing the Maf and the fuel pressure thousands of times a second and then altering the values dynamically to get the desired effect. It has 6 ideal maps built in, but because of the dynamic nature of the way it works it will get perfect results for your car every time unlike a map that is 1profile and only correct on the day it was done. It also learns the cars original limits and will not take any parameter beyond the range set by Ford, it just alters the rate and timing of those figures it also is responsive to how you drive. Drive sedately and it on the fly lowers the map to favour fuel economy, drive aggresivly and it instantly kicks in the full map takes a while when it first goes on to learn your car and its optimum settings just like a good mapper does rather than using a one size fits all static map, which could have any settings and take things out of fords intended ranges. It has a lot of safety features built in as well the spider is not like the other tuning boxes, many of which are literally a fixed resister to oomph up fuel pressure. Go look at its reviews on other furums now I know how to do it, it takes 5 mins to fit on my car and 7 mins to remove and leaves no trace unlike a map as the mk3 records whenever the Ecu map is changed i leave mine on fast road 3 all the time as race is a little too aggressive when transporting dogs and/or mother in law. The gain in torque is phenomenal so don't just write it off as another tuning box. Anyone with a 1.6 tad I near Staines who wants to try it is welcome, although it's now adjusted to my car with a K&N and snorkel delete so won't be perfect for yours. A relearn for a new car is 50 miles approx. It runs bad for the first 10
  10. Ours are the tdci diesels! The Petrols covered are below
  11. It does, it gives 180 bhp and 400nm torque, need to use the search as Ford isn't on the banner. Nice thing about the Spider is it learns your car, so if you upgrade the exhaust etc, you just out it in relearn mode and it remaps itself. its a dynamic map and not like a fixed ecu map
  12. probably has a friction fit cap over the seal so you cant overtighten it. My land rover one ratchets once its at the correct tension
  13. Look up the Spider Arachnid tuning chip. I have one on my 1.6tdci and its fantastic. I have more Torque than an ST now and still get 60 mpg. Adjustable and removable in minutes
  14. Theoretically that's correct, but in reality most batteries are not perfect and a working full charge is considered 12.8v and above (95% plus). In reality any voltage even slightly above the resting voltage of the battery will result in some charge going in (however slowly). But yes you would expect >13.2 volts min on a brand new or modern high capacity system. After a start, the battery will be partially drained and so modern system will wap in more to bring it up quickly
  15. Battery would get warm and gas off. it would loose fluid. They are not a clutch physically, they are voltage controlled internally by electrics. The colder it is and the lower the battery voltage the higher the output voltage If you start the engine while watching the voltage and leave it, You should see the voltage be high immediately after the start and then slowly come down as the battery is charged