simcor

FOC Supporters
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About simcor

  • Rank
    Resident meddler
  • Birthday 10/30/1977

Contact Methods

  • First Name
    Simon

Profile Information

  • Gender*
    Male
  • Ford Model
    Focus MK2 1.6 TDCI (DPF) Aquarius Blue
  • Ford Year
    2006
  • UK/Ireland Location
    Derbyshire
  • Annual Mileage
    5001 to 10,000
  • Interests
    Classic Cars
    General Automotive
    Motorsport & Racing
    Travel
    Food & Drink
    Entertainment
    Computers & Electronics

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  1. Using the heater will draw some of the engine heat away so a little drop in temp is pretty normal especially in the colder weather. I suspect your thermostat may need replacing if the temp gauge is dropping that low. what's your MPG usage like? Do the heaters get hot enough or only lukewarm?
  2. The cluster diagnostics code only shows some basic DTC codes not all of them. The only way to check it properly is on suitable diagnostics equipment. If the garage said low air flow into the turbo then it is likely to be a turbo issue or causing the turbo under boost, however it would help if we knew what DTC codes we're stored. If it's the 110bhp then it has variable vanes in the turbo that often coke up and cause turbo under boost or over boost. The vanes either allow more exhaust gasses to spool the turbo up or stop the exhaust gases from spooling the turbo up. If there is under boost then a check of the inter cooler hoses is a must as that will also cause under boost. As has been suggested though the first thing to check would be to change the fuel filter to rule that out. Also I assume your car has a DPF still fitted, again checking this is important as a blocked filter can cause issues as it can cause the engine to suffocate as it can't exhaust the gases properly. There are a multitude of possibilities and diagnostics will give an indication of where to start. You say the garage said low air flow, so I assume it was turbo under boost DTC that was logged. You also say it cost you £200 what did the garage do for that other than the diagnostics? Lastly you have paid them to fix it and it's still the same so I would be taking it back to them as they have not fixed it.
  3. Its a bit of a guesstimate but I have saved around £100 with my FOC discount card so far to date, that;s working out the stuff I have bought and then working out the discount at 15%. Having said that I have also bought wipers and probably some other random bits I have forgotten about so the actual savings cost will be higher than my estimate. My tool chests and dash cam were two of the biggest purchases that I then got a decent cash saving on them too.
  4. As said there is no reason why you should not be able to unenable the option if you have enabled it. if it comes up with an error it's most likely something else causing it. As suggested have you tried downloading your as built data and writing that back as that would put it back to factory spec.
  5. Could be the bottom pulley tensioner, mine was really bad and made a horrible metallic rattle sound on acceleration.
  6. Most likely place is near the fuse box in the footwell, as they generally take power from the fusebox. I have seen many fitted to vans and trucks over the years and they are always somewhere near the fuse box. Easy enough to remove, although be careful as they usually own the box and will likely want it back or charge you for it. so arrange to send it back to them recorded delivery once you have removed it, better to be safe than sorry.
  7. As far as I can tell the membership fee is a recurring payment in pay-pal if you paid by that method. I paid again for mine and got a refund as it auto renewed as well I hadn't even spotted it at the time. Mine was refunded without me even having to mention it to anyone, it was only the refunded payment that made me check it out.
  8. Drop it hide it lose it lol Complete with half the yard sinking with the warehouse hopefully falling into it currently lol
  9. Yard shunter at present but going back out on the road in January. We have mostly Volvo's and a shed load of hired units in at the moment along with our rigids and a load more hired in rigids currently for peak.
  10. Resetting the PCM clears all the learned values for a number of sensors, it is no wonder the car was running badly to start with. it would have taken a little while for the car to adapt the values, but a PCM reset is not something that should be done Willy nilly as far as know. It is also advisaeable to back up any modules configuration before doing anything so you can restore it to it's previous settings should anything go wrong.
  11. This is very odd. The mass of additive figure is how much fluid has been dosed into the fuel tank as far as I know. So it seems odd that the figure is 0mg unless somehow you have rest that figure? I must admit I am a little baffled as to why you can't clear the MIL by successfully resetting the counter and the fact the DTC's come back straight away. Have you ever noticed your car doing a regeneration? Has it had the DPF mapped out possibly? Otherwise I would think you are possibly looking at an issue with the FACM or a wiring issue from the looks of things.
  12. Your car should auto lock itself if the fob is used and no doors are opened, it should re lock itself after around 30 secs of no doors being opened.
  13. For the auto lights and wipers you need the correct screen installing for the rain sensor and light sensor, the screen is different to a standard screen.
  14. Sounds like classic instrument cluster failure, when it is a none start does the immobiliser light flash out a code, usually 1-16 is the code that is noted, meaning the car is immobilised. This happens because the HEC and PCM are not able to communicate with each other and the PCM does not receive a valid command to allow starting of the engine from the HEC. It also seems that often the outside temp will show a dash and sometimes the mileometer will also shows dashes instead of the figures again because of communication issues, then you also get various errors from other modules that can communicate hence the reduced acceleration, ESP failure, Steering assist failure etc etc.
  15. I believe the only way to reprogram the key less entry fobs is via Ford IDS, so it will need a trip to the garage that changed the battery in the first place.