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About simcor

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    Resident meddler
  • Birthday 10/30/1977

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  • Ford Model
    Focus MK2 1.6 TDCI (DPF) Aquarius Blue
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  • UK/Ireland Location
  • Annual Mileage
    5001 to 10,000
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    Classic Cars
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  1. The main issues are DPF and EGR issues and turbo worries, carbon buildup can also cause turbo oil starvation, most of these things can be avoided with some prevention techniques and regular servicing etc. Short journeys for any car no matter what fuel are never that good and can be more problematic than higher mileage cars that have done a lot of long distance journeys. Diesel engines tend to be more bullet proof than petrol engines even with DPF and DMF's etc, the problem is the more complex they get the more expensive issues there are to go wrong with them, even some newer petrol's are getting similar as most cars nowadays have DPF's and small capacity turbo's etc
  2. Guys we are talking about a brand new car here which has 7K odd miles on it and is only 6 months old. There is absolutely no way anyone can kill a clutch in 6 months and that mileage on a brand new car, unless riding the clutch constantly and wheel spinning and harsh gear changes etc. To kill a clutch in less than 10K miles on a brand new car just is impossible. I would go back to the dealer and ask for proof that it is your driving that has damaged it, then write to Ford head office about it and the treatment you have received. It is under manufacturer warranty so the garage shoudl strip it to diagnose the fault, then they shoudl repair it and claim for the repairs from Ford direct, sadly a lot of garages try and avoid claiming under warranty for whatever reasons and the owner gets told oh it's your fault. If they are still not forthcoming then reject the car as not fit for purpose.
  3. Remove the heat shield and look for non OEM weld marks on the DPF filter canister, that would indicate it is has been gutted. My exhaust tail pipe was very clean when I got it. no soot build up at all, after it went back with glow plugs fault and he suggested any more issue bring it back for DPF removal was when I started noticing soot build up on the tail pipe.
  4. Assuming you mean the key fob stopped working first, then the rest of the gremlins started then I would be first checking the GEM module aka footwell fuse box for water ingress to start with. That will control a lot of the functions that have packed up.
  5. If the wastegate or vnt actuator moves freely by hand then it does seem to be moving OK. It should be in one position with the engine off, when starting it should move to the opposite position. Can't remember off hand if the actuator pulls down or pushes up. It should then alter it's position at different times dependant upon road speed engine load and speed, unlikely to move whilst stationary revving the engine. There is a vacuum regulator at the back of the engine that controls the vacuum pressure for it that can be a common problem. Best way to check it would be diagnostics on run and seeing if the percentage alters accordingly. If it is 90 bhp then it will just have a wastegate and actuator, if 110bhp then it will have a VNT turbo with actuator.
  6. 75K miles for the earlier additive DPF and I think 120K for the coated DPF system from memory.
  7. A working DPF should leave an almost perfectly clean tail pipe. The soot should be caught and burned and turned to ash. As for noticing a Regen the car should feel a bit sluggish at pulling off and the fan should be on and you should hear the fan when turning the engine off whilst doing a Regen, you should also have some visible smoke from the exhaust when coming off the throttle and should disappear when accelerating again. If it has been mapped out then I would expect no figures as the ECU has had those PID'S removed or altered to basically not send any info to the ECU. I would say it most likely has been gutted and mapped out in my opinion.
  8. You should be able to program a used fob so look for a second hand one just for the remote locking function then use your key to start the car, better than no fob at all.
  9. I would hazard a guess your dpf has been gutted and mapped out. Hence why you are getting no readings at all. It's as if the ashful figure has been reset and turned off in effect. Have you ever noticed the car doing a regeneration? I think mine has been gutted as I get less that 1kpa while idling as low as 0.2 and the highest I have ever seen is 1.2kpa way lower than even people who have fitted a brand new DPF. What's the pre filter temperature like on a long run? If the Senor's were not working correctly then Regen's are unlikely to happen and the filter will soon fill up with soot and won't be burned off. What's the exhaust tailpipe like? Mine was immaculate when I got OT no soot at all, then I noticed it start getting sorted up after it had the glow plugs done at the garage I bought it from when I suspect they may have gutted the dpf at the same time, as he was saying if I had any more issues with the dpf he would remove it and get it mapped out.
  10. If it has a dpf fitted then could also be out of Eoyls fluid and the code for that won't be read by a generic OBD scanner as it is stored in the FACM. OBD readers generally only can access the powertrain ECU not many of the other ECU's that can cause problems. Forscan and an ELM 327 is the only way to diagnose the car correctly or go to a garage with suitable diagnostics kit.
  11. Get the glow plugs changed, if there is a DTC for them then they are goosed and will cause limp home mode. If the EGR is stuck open or closed also a clean will not work and replacement may be the only option as well. Both the glow plugs and EGR are used to aid DPF regeneration if your car has one fitted.
  12. The pulley and tensioner for mine came straight off a Peugeot 206 Diesel lol Second hand admittedly but they did it for free. It is the bottom pullet causing the tensioner to move rapidly hence the noise, the garage shoudl have known that. I woudl go back to them and talk tot hem about it as you have paid for them to fix and they have diagnosed it wrong.
  13. Tbh I have had a chat with her, it's been having trouble starting for quite some time, seems to be a starter motor issue from what i can gather, unless the cambelt was slipping causing trouble starting which is possible I guess. So even if the worst case scenario was the £750 she has been quoted, then if it still does not fix the starting issues then that is more cost and it was due to be MOT'd next week, so even after spending money on it the MOT could be even more cost to get it through. I personally think she shoudl cut her losses and run, but getting rid of it and getting it from the garage etc is a pain, they said if she did not want to repair it they would pay scrap value for it, or she would have to get it removed in a couple of days.
  14. Oh dear just had call from the garage, cam belt has snapped, 180 quid to strip it to see if valves are damaged etc. Quoted 750 including the labour to strip it to fix it. But on 150K miles the injectors will probably need changing soon and it had starting problems and electrical gremlins. No idea what she is going to do yet. But an expensive lesson learned by not getting it serviced and buying a car with little service history etc. Feel sorry for her but that's cars. I have tried explaining to her there is a lot of expensive parts on diesels to go wrong but she really likes the car. So it's up to her pay to find out what damage it's done and then decide whether to fix it or not an put that money towards another car.
  15. If it's the 90bhp then no it won't have a dpf. Yes it will have just a wastegate controlled by an actuator then. Check the wastegate actuator is working properly and check all hoses especially the left hand side inter cooler hose as looking at the engine, this cracks on the back and isn't easy to spot with a feel around it.