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About tigrepojke

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  1. New update Managed to work out how to get the metal plate off, this was for the rear O/S passenger door. You remove all of the bolts on its face, think they're 8mm. Then you need to wind/motor the window down so far until you see the regulator clamping the glass, there is some screws to slacken off and you can lift the glass up....taped it to the door frame. Then there are some more bolts on the end of the door, this is the bit hidden when the door is shut and where the locking latch is, so unscrew them. Then you have to poke a long torx screwdriver through a hole in this end to be able to unscrew the door handle, remove the outer handle and now hopefully everything should be loose and if you angle it right you can slide the whole metal plate away from the door, the window regulator and the door locking latch unit will be on it,......at this point look at the wiring and you should see it going through the bottom left of the door and it attaching on the frame between the front and back doors. Disconnect it. So friend and I had this plate off and took it inside. We then unscrewed lots more torx screws to get the locking latch unit off the door, then some more torx screws (and one drilled rivet) to release it as it is multiple parts. We opened it up and the best description is it is a Kinder Egg toy in there, it has metal parts with plastic teethed cogs which isn't the best combination but is no doubt designed to fail. Poked around with it, put some loose bits back together, put it back together again (replaced rivet with a small coach screw and washer) then attached to the door panel and took it back to the car. Reversed the process to refit it, now this passenger door is as follows - still does not unlock via central locking - will unlock by manually pulling the interior handle - it does lock via central locking. That was a few weeks ago, hard to find the time to look at this but on Saturday just gone I thought I'd see if I can expose the door cable on the N/S doors and unlock by pulling on it as that was how I got into the O/S rear passenger door mentioned above. Cable is not doing anything. So it could still be a mechanical fault on the N/S doors locking latch unit, or it could be the signal that the front door is unlocked isn't getting to them which I've seen described as a 'Lock Down' problem. Apparently the AA techs often re-route electrical stuff via earthing and bridging, and they get in. They won't come out unless the lockdown is affecting all doors though, buggers. I've also read other stuff, below are the things I will be looking into soon - keep reading about a hidden Fuse 63, this appears to be hidden on the other side of the fusebox buried in wires. See it mostly in Zetecs and normal Focus, the fuse guide I have for the C-Max lists a fuse 63 but on something else. Still gonna try and get the fusebox out to check for myself. Also locate the multiplugs as mentioned earlier in this thread, see if loose or not, assumed the dealer would reported that but lost faith in them now. - also read about a remote control signal unit in the driver footwell, again may be on other models but will check if one. Lot of people with other Ford models and similar problems to me have had success by unplugging this for 10mins and reattaching so will check if there is one, if not then I guess Ford integrated it onto the CJB or somewhere equally inaccessible. - try an Auto Locksmith. Spoke to one who seemed like he's seen the problem before and reckons he can get the doors opened and can fix it, he said if he can't fix it then it will definitely be a dealer job such as replacing the fusebox but he will try all the normal fixes first. This sounds promising,.....unfortunately like the auto electricians I spoke to before he said to call back Monday to get an appointment so I rung this morning and they took all my details then said someone will call me in 20 mins. Still no phonecall Will try them tomorrow - if I get time later in the week, now I know how to get the door plate off, I will revisit my driver door and see what I see regarding any solenoids etc. Sorry to anyone following this thread I didn't take photos when removing the metal plate, I will try and do that if I revisit the driver door.
  2. OK got you. We'll try getting the glass out first and drill the rivets as a last ditch effort then
  3. Ok thanks Jeebo Wasn't sure about those rivets needing to be removed or not as all the metal plates for the car you can buy have the rivets on them already, see the photos earlier in the thread. I thought those rivets are holding the window regulator so maybe there is someway to wind the window down, release it and slide out. As to us it looked like it was the window regulator stopping the panel coming away and likely the glass itself is what is still connected. Remove that, door panel comes off. Might be wrong
  4. Latest update on this, problem is still there but haven't had much time to look at it, if needing more than one person in a car trip we take their car. Have tried booking it into some local auto electricians, they gave me their card and told me to call them. Wouldn't make an appointment with me face to face, said I must call them and see if they are free, really weird way to do business in this day and age so never bothered ringing them. So months ago the Ford dealer had it for days and reckoned it needed fusebox replacement, asked them if they checked the mechanisms in all the doors and they said yes. A friend and I got some time to muck about with it this weekend just gone and we removed the plastic doorcard on one of the problem rear doors, unable to get the metal plate off though as it seems to be attached to the window regulator somehow and couldn't work out how to detach, the rear doors are manual winders not electric. So with what we could get our hands on we disconnected the interior door handle and got some pliers on the end of the metal pull thread, gave it a yank and the door unlocks. Problem looks to be mechanical then, too much slack on this metal thread, need to get the metal panel off to investigate the door latching part but as mentioned am not sure how to do that. Even if it is still an electrical issue, fixing the doors manual unlocking by shortening the metal thread or reseating it (might have come off on the other doors) will do for me. Still suspect it might not be electrical however as when I press the unlock button I can hear something moving in all the doors, will investigate the mechanical aspect further. If anyone knows how to get the metal plate off these doors I'd appreciate the advice. Also well done on the local Ford Dealer who were asked to open all doors and check the mechanisms, they didn't. Makes me wonder what they were doing all the days they had it.
  5. Ok thanks supercmaxer. The car is currently in a Ford dealership since Tuesday, called me just now and said unsure of the problem however they saw some green discolouration on or around the fusebox. Said it is a 50/50 chance that could be the issue and is causing the unlock signal to get blocked, (nothing else electrical is at fault) and they recommend on a 50/50 chance to replace the fusebox at around £540. Unsure if that price includes VAT or not, either way I'm not spending that out on a 50/50 chance, it is not a diagnosis of the problem in my opinion and more a spin-the-wheel diagnosis. Will get the car back and take it to an independent auto-electrician I reckon
  6. Update on this, car has been with the Ford dealer for 2 days now, they can't work it out either. They've got it for 2 more days now
  7. Ok thanks, I have it booked into a Ford Dealership tomorrow for investigation so we'll see what they say
  8. Had the battery disconnected most of the day, thought the doors would unlock with no power but they stayed locked. Whilst the battery was disconnected I checked nothing was working such as the horn or lights to make sure there wasn't some store I needed to drain. Reconnected the battery and the problem is still there. The radio code worked ok though which is good, noticed it kept all my programmed channels which I was not expecting. theredfox, no not had a cpu put on it yet, a friend was supposed to be getting hold of a proper ford cpu unit but have been waiting months so far. Wanted the cpu on it to see if could work out why the car alarm was going off intermittently, whilst waiting for this cpu unit I noticed the bonnet latch wasn't unlocking too well and the bonnet was sitting up a bit so suspected this. Swapped out the bonnet latch, clip etc and it was shutting down fine,....during that I disconnected the switch to the bonnet latch to see if it was the cause of the alarm failure but the alarm still went off randomly so that was ruled out. Now the door problem is kicking about. About a week before it happened whilst driving the "driver door" alert popped up but it was shut fine. Had been shutting the car by leaning over from the offside passenger door and pressing the driver doors lock button as this seemed to get the car locked without arming the alarm. Had been doing that for about a month. Then noticed the passenger front door was not unlocking. Few days later all the doors aren't unlocking except the driver one, so have focused on looking at that lock motor. Car alarm has not gone off since the locked door problem started. I think I've exhausted all options available to me now unless anyone has any other ideas?
  9. It looks to be behind the metal plate, there is the window regulator and the locking box. Here's a picture of the metal plate along with the same but coloured in, removed the rivets in red, torx in green and the plastic rivets just slid through the metal (with some effort) as I pulled itNot disconnected the battery as unsure of the radio code, it was written in the manual but in poor handwriting. Suppose I could risk it
  10. Metal Door Plate b

    From the album C-Max

  11. Metal Door Plate a

    From the album C-Max

  12. On the metal door panel there were 4 rivets in the middle, chiselled them off and reckon they were into the window regulator, it's still working for now The plastic ones you mention are on the right hand side of the panel, black and plastic, managed to just pull the panel over them. They look to be attached to some plastic arm thing, reckon it's the gasket you mentioned for stopping water ingress. Bit annoying really the panel wouldn't come fully away so I could get a good look at the cabling and lock motor. Probably just needs a sharp tug but worried I don't know how to put it all together again and end up with a door that has no working window etc or I break the regulator or something else meaning more money to spend out.
  13. Possibly is the rivets that were securing the window regulator, it appears attached elsewhere and I tested the window multiple times so it is good for now. When I take it in to a garage I'll get them to re-rivet as part of the investigation
  14. Took another look at this today. Drilling the rivets wasn't doing much due to my drill being on its last legs, managed to get them out by chisel and hammering the heads Still couldn't get the metal plate off fully, the window mechanism is attached somehow and I can't see where. I removed the torx screws around the window motor but something is still attached, tried with the window up and down. Had to satisfy myself by gunning a load of wd40 over the locking motor/mechanism with my newfound limited access, will see how that does and if nothing fixes itself will have to take it into someone who knows what they're doing Such is life
  15. Yeah cheers redfox, was talking to a mate not long ago and he said he has a rivet gun so we'll be drilling that thing off sometime in the next couple of weeks and having a poke about. Will update when we get round to it