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Vas

Budding Enthusiast
  • Content count

    18
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About Vas

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    Member

Profile Information

  • Gender*
    Male
  • Ford Model
    Focus 1.8 TDCi
  1. Hi mate, I have a 53 plate 1.8TDCi which can be difficult starting in the cold (especially over last winter). I know for definate that a couple of my glow plugs are knackered and I find that turning the key to the 'II' position, waiting until the glow plug light goes out, then turning off and back on to re-heat them again, seems to makes it start better (a tip a mate told me!). I've read on websites that some people reckon the glow plugs don't actually contribute / make no difference to starting the engine. How true this is I don't know, but if they don't then I have no idea what their function is. If I ever get around to getting mine replaced, only to find that it makes no difference, then I'll know these people were telling the truth ;) Hope this helps!
  2. Ben, Yeah that's right its the light grey ones (at least it was on mine). Just take the glove box out (un-clip the retaining arm thingy at the LH side, then whip out 3 or 4 screws along the bottom, & it should wiggle out). The metal cross bracket is a bit of a pain as it stops you removing the whole panel on which the relays are plugged into. If I remember correctly I unfastened a couple of screws on this main panel and also there were a couple of retaining clips which needed pushing back to free it. I then pulled it to one side an inch or two just so that I could unplug the relays around the side of the metal cross. As I mention in my previous post I just swapped them round and they are still going strong - the spare I bought is still sat in the toolbox in my boot...;-) Good luck! Andy
  3. Hi everyone, My workmate who I car-share with has had a re-occuring problem with his '54 plate 1.8 (petrol) Focus since getting it over a year ago. Basically when braking the car will stall, but there appears to be no 'pattern' to it happening:- Doesn't matter if engine is hot or cold, Doesn't matter if braking to stop (i.e. a junction), or just to slow down (i.e. approaching a roundabout, slow-moving traffic etc) Happens even if clutch is fully depressed at the time, Only 'constant' is that it seems to be at lower speeds (highest having been about 25-30 mph) Doesn't appear related to weather conditions (i.e. if its cold, hot, snowing or raining it doesn't matter) The only warning he gets is the battery light on the dash illuminating, then everythings dead & he has to re-start it manually. It can go ages without happening, then can occur a few times in a short period (i.e. just done it this morning going to work & twice on the way home, but the previous time was weeks and weeks ago). Can anyone shed any light on this? It can be a bit scary to be coasting onto a roundabout only to find the steering has gone heavy and something is closing fast from the right!! (although thankfully I'm on the passenger side, so my mate should cushion any impact Cheers, Vas
  4. Hi Mike, Have a look at this previous post:- http://www.fordownersclub.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=9028&st=0&p=54252entry54252 I posted a reply to this about a similar problem I was having - hope it helps..!! Cheers, Vas
  5. I've got a 53 plate TDCi of a friend who replaced a cracked screen b4 selling it to me, and that was replaced with a heated one but like yours it doesn't have the buttons etc - spoke to my local garage about getting it connected but found it would be uneconomical to get it done (financially speaking). He told me something about it apparently involving re-progamming of the ECU due to the amount of drain put on the system when using the heated screen, and that, unlike some wiring circuit, the wiring for the heated screen would only be there if it was meant to have a heated screen from new - think he said there was 2 or 3 "standard" looms and that the one with the heated screen system would only have been fitted if the heated screen was fitted from the factory (not sure I've remembered all the details correctly(!) but the general idea was that it would cost more than it was worth). Don't know if it will be any different on your newer model - maybe worth contacting an auto-electrician just to get an idea of prices (but an ice scraper & can of de-icer will be alot cheaper!! ) Good luck Andy
  6. Hi mate, Had the same problem with my '53 TDCi - Ford dealer said it was common practice to try swapping the two relays over & it would often last another 12 - 18 months (providing the previous owner hadn't aready tried this!!). I did this & now all wipers work fine (no flashing dash lights as you mentioned - are you sure it was the correct two relays you swapped? - think they are numbered something like R18 & R19). Anyway I bought a spare whilst I was there, & like others have said, it was only about £5 and takes 10 mins to fit, if that.... Hope this was some help! Andy
  7. Sounds like what happened to mine a few months back, the switch solenoid clicked but nothing else happened - I read on various forums that it could just be the motor getting jammed. To access the motor I removed the door trim & peeled back a bit of the foam padding material (the white stuff in the pic) which covers the metal door frame to reach the motor location. Then I tapped the motor with a hammer (not TOO hard, but a decent 'tap' at least). Just give the metal cylindrical section a crack!! Hey presto, it got going again & I've had no trouble since. Don't know if it'll last forever but it's worth having a go if you were gonna fork out for it fixing anyway...... If you don't have a clue where to start removing the trim, etc, there's plenty of info on this forum & other websites, (this is where I found out how to do it.) Good luck!! P.S. I have read that some people got theirs going again by just banging the inside of the door next to the motor (i.e. not even removing the trim) - didn't work for me but hey, it's always worth a punt!!
  8. I recently noticed a strange sound from my Focus when I first start driving it. Only thing I can think of sounding similar was when the heat shield on my previous mondeo came loose, a metallic rattling / vibrating kind of sound. That sound occurred constantly though, whilst this is intermittent & only lasts a short time (30 secs, etc). However tonight I picked the car up from a friends where it had been since yesterday morning & this noise occurred as soon as I started it & lasted for several miles - it was also the loudest & most constant that I've heard it (could easily be heard at around 30mph over engine noise, with the windows closed) but seemed to stop once the engine got warm. A couple of times there was also a very slight "jolt" as if something wasn't quite fully engaged, but then slipping into place. (crap explanations I know, but can't think how else to describe it!!) Near home I stopped for fuel & it was fine when I started again, so I wondered if it could just be something as simple as the TDCi not liking the cold weather? It has seemed abit harder to start lately since it got colder. I did recently had a cambelt change done & am hoping it's not related to that in any way - I've no reason to suspect the guy who did it of !Removed! anything up, but you never know.....? Just a bit worried as I drive about 100 miles a day to work & back, & don't fancy breaking down on the motorway at this time of year (or anytime of year, come to that!) Cheers if anyone can offer any advice. Vas
  9. The original Focus (Mk1) was from 1998 to around 2001, then they did a bit of a facelift (cosmetic stuff like moving front indicators, foglights, etc) which lasted until around 2004/5 & I think people just ended up referring to it as "Mk 1.5". When they drastically changed the bodyshape it then became the Mk2.
  10. Just had my Mk1.5 TDCi (53 plate) done at approx 74,500 and it cost me £45.50 + VAT for the kit and £87.50 + VAT for the labour (which was just under 3hrs). In total it was £152.95. Not sure if the belt kit is the same for yours (incidentally the part number was VKMAQ4108 if that is of any use to you). This was done by a local guy who I use, not a Ford main dealer or anything. He showed me the belt he'd removed & said there was no signs of wear on it & so it would probably have lasted longer, but it's better to be safe than sorry!!
  11. I recently got some Osram Silverstar for my Mk1.5 TDCi from Powerbulbs (also got some free Phillips blue sidelight bulbs worth £10) and am more than happy with them. As far as fitting goes I managed to do it without removing anything at all (other than the clip-on cover on the back of the lamp, & obviously the old bulb!). The passenger side is a bit tighter, but I've read people say that moving the battery can help. It can be a bit awkward but only 'cos you have to do it "by feel" - it helps to get a small mirror first & try to get an idea of where you'll be workng - it also helps if you've got small hands like me!! Basically it's not really technical, so as long as you don't touch the glass part you should manage it ok. AndyVas P.S. Also managed to find a discount code on-line for 10% off, so got the Osram and the Phillips for a total of £14.85 delivered - can't argue with that!! :)
  12. Don't know how much the light design on the 2005 model differs from my 2003 Focus, but I've recently changed the sidelights & dipped beams on both sides, without having to remove anything other than the plastic covers at the back of the light unit. The dipped bulbs are held in by a metal clip which hinges into place and clips shut (a bit like closing a gate then latching it) whilst the sidelights just pushed into place. Its a bit of a squeeze & it helps if you've got small hands (like me!), but it can be done without having to bugger about removing the light or the battery, etc....might be useful getting a small mirror first to try & see where everything is before putting your hand in, as you'll have to work "by feel"... (Not sure about the full beams as have never touched them).
  13. Hi mate. sounds like it could be similar to the problem I had on my 53 plate TDCi - as you mentioned it was the stabiliser bar(s) which made a creaking kind of sound when turning / manouvering at slow speeds, usually only in one direction like yours. Spoke to a mate who does a bit of car maintenance & he said that sometimes the ball joint sockets at the ends of the link bars can get a bit dry - I sprayed in some WD40 & some penetrating oil (forcing back the rubber surrounds the best I could) & that cured it for a while. It came back a few weeks later & I put something else on it this time (I can't remember what it was though, just something a friend had in his van), and it hasn't made a sound since, for at least 2 - 3 months now. Suggest you maybe try squeezing in some WD40 or similar & see if that stops the noise, before shelling out a fortune on the steering. Even replacing both bars would be a lot less than £330 I would guess. Good luck...!!
  14. I bought a blanking plate for my 2003 Focus from a site called www.justkenwood.co.uk several months ago (part ref FP07-02) for £10, although I imagine several other places do similar items. The fitting isn't perfect but it does the job.....although with hindsight I'd have probably gone for the ones with a pocket instead, as they look as if they might fit the rounded shape of the dashboard a bit better. As far as plugging in the steering remote, for my headunit I'd have had to get an adaptor kit for about £30, and I'd guess this would be the case irrespective of the make / model of headunit you fitted. Again I think the above site sold these (although for that money I'd sooner just reach across that extra few inches & turn it up by hand!) Hope this is some help mate.
  15. Cheers for the reply, I've just driven my Dads this evening & his seems to be fairly noisy as well (not sure if its quite as bad as mine though), so maybe its just the Focus in general(?). Perhaps my previous car (MkII Mondeo Ghia) was better sound-proofed with it being a higher spec & I just got used to it. Oh well, guess it'll just be a case of turning up the stereo - seems to cure most other noise-related problems