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      Posting in General Chat thread.   11/11/2017

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pauljoanss

Budding Enthusiast
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    78
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About pauljoanss

  • Rank
    Settling In Well

Contact Methods

  • First Name
    Paul

Profile Information

  • Ford Model
    Focus
  • Ford Year
    2010
  • UK/Ireland Location
    Oxfordshire
  1. Drivers Electric Window Not Working

    Slow start because of flu. Dismantled door and window mechanism. Mechanism stuck in down mode, when operating the down window rocker switch results in a quiet click from the door control unit and momentary power across the two thick wires on the window regulator female socket (disconnected from regulator). Operating the up window rocker switch results in no click from the door control unit and no power to the socket. My only conclusion is that either the door control unit or rocker switch assembly are faulty so trying to identify replacement parts (used on EBay) to test. Can anyone help to explain how this system works, firstly the switch assembly has 4 rockers/6 wing mirror adjusters/window lock switch, yet only 3 connects, I would love to test it but impossible if I have no idea how it works. Secondly the plug connecting to the window control unit has 2 heavy wires and I think about 4 thinner wires, what are they doing. Very difficult to diagnose a fault if you have no idea how the system works. Any help welcome.
  2. It happens very often that I am having problems diagnosing a fault, particularly with electrical items. My solution is to try and purchase the identical suspect item on EBay (used) and test by substitution then return to seller if no solution. But finding the EXACT same part number is usually very difficult, eg currently working on electric window and suspect the door control unit, original part nos 6G9T 14B533BJ, the closest I can find on eBay is 6G9T 14B533BL only the final digit is different. I normally assume the significance of the digits decreases from front to back and therefore the last digit being different does not concern me too much. Am I right?
  3. Window stuck in down position. Checked fuse and ok. I will be working on the window this weekend, any ideas where to start would be welcome.
  4. Battery Light

    2007 1.8 TDCI Battey light on approx 90% of the time. Voltage measured at 11.8 when engine off and 13.8 when engine running and light on. It appears the battery is charging so why us the light showing?
  5. Black Soot in Exhaust Pipe

    Planning to carry out the Wynn's EGR cleaner treatment tomorrow but not sure how I can run engine at the required 2000 rpm while working on my own, any ideas? Had hoped the Forscan software might provide a means but laptop playing up (Win 7, stuck in "preparing to configure Windows, do not turn off" for last few days) Regards
  6. Black Soot in Exhaust Pipe

    Peter, you are a fund of information, many thanks again. I will report back here with results but maybe a few weeks.
  7. Black Soot in Exhaust Pipe

    Many thanks for all that info Peter. Will certainly look to obtain the software and link. My plan A is to try Wynn's EGR cleaner, easy and cheap with some good reports. Plan B will probably be to blank the EGR, but will this give MOT problems. Plan C ??? Would be very interested to understand the mechanism whereby a faulty EGR produces soot in the exhaust. Regards
  8. Black Soot in Exhaust Pipe

    Son's car a 2007 1800 TDCI. It has been a bit low on power for some time and now engine malfunction light has been on for last 3 weeks. Just noticed today that there are very heavy black sooty deposits in exhaust pipe, rear box had large hole and again black sooty deposits around hole, Checked for faults with basic OBD device (using TORQUE App), only fault showing was "P0490 - Powertrain", web lookup came back with "Powertrain - Auxiliary - Emissions control - ISO/SAE Controlled Exaust Gas Recirculation "A" Control Circuit High" Visually no sign of smoke as he drove away. All ideas welcome. PS any advice on PC based software for fuller analyse of faults. Regards
  9. I am at the planing stage of changing the timing belt on my 2010 Focus with 108k on the clock. Garage quotes are coming in at around £350 so thought I would have a go, but shame I have waited for winter weather. Couple of questions. 1. It appears there are two types of tensioners, according to Haynes pre 2005 and post 2005, both Parts4less and Europarts show two tensioners types for this car but not clear from descriptions which one I need. One is pictured mounted on small arm and one without arm. 2. Bit confused over loosening of crankshaft pulley bolt. Haynes says remove starter motor and lock crankshaft using special tool (which I will buy). It also talks about holding the crankshaft pulley with tool to prevent turning while loosening bolt. Since the crankshaft is already locked with special tool, do you also need to hold the pulley. Maybe required to minimise stress on crankshaft? but makes it a two man job, one holding pulley and one undoing bolt with breaker arm. 3. Not clear if coolant pump driven from aux belt (would not replace) or timing belt (would replace), have different opinion from two garages and Haynes not clear but beginning to look like it runs from the timing belt. Have looked at engine and still not clear. 4. Willing to have a go at making guide for this job, is it worth it, as it seems most guides here are more about customising smaller things than bigger basic jobs. Is it assumed these types of jobs are best left to Haynes?
  10. 1.8 TDCI Lack of Power

    Just a quick update. Air filter changed and checked with basic OBD2 (has worked well with Fords in the past), result shows no stored codes. I was driving the car yesterday and the problem seems to be low power at low revs eg below 2,500 rpm, once the revs reach 2,500 rpm the the power really seems to kick in. So all is well if you keep in a lower gear than normal. That's why it is very easy to stall as you pull away.
  11. 1.8 TDCI Lack of Power

    Son's car, has done 115k miles and now short of power. You used to always feel the turbo cutting in but not any longer. Have to change down to get up quite minor hills, but once revs raised the power seems to get better but no clear cut in, just a general increase in power as revs rise. Also tends to stall on pull away because of low power. Had flywheel, clutch and timing belt changed recently, garage reported low power after the work and say they have not done anything to effect turbo. My son is a bit vague about when problem started but I get the impression it has been deteriorating for some time previous. All ideas welcome.
  12. Just to add my experience. Son in law has bonnet problem, tried screwdriver but no good. I also have a mk2 Focus so decided to take mine apart to see how it works and hope it helps solve problem on other car. On reassembly I wisely tested my catch before closing the bonnet and horror of horrors, it was not connecting. Studied parts and could not get the male cross to engage in the female collet connecting to the key. Read thro this thread and followed advice to cut off sprung lugs on white male cross, did not cut off completely, just the removed "catch" feature and also chamfered front edge. Parts now engaged with no problem and working perfectly, still have to tackle son in laws car but now happier knowing how parts are assembled.
  13. Haynes Manual Now Available

    "Please be aware that from August 2014, Haynes Publishing will now only print new print runs of car manuals in paperback. Hardback books are no longer in production. During the changeover period between hardback to paperback stock supplied may vary." Thought I saw this on the Haynes website but it was in fact on the EBay site selling manuals at £14 so make what you want of it. The last manual I bought (on EBay) was paperback and cheap, just checked publication date and it was 2013 so bit suspect. I have built up a small collection of Haynes manuals over my life and a bit sad that they will no longer look like a nice set on the book shelf. Never mind.
  14. The car has done 115k. I have now decided to stick with the original Dual Mass flywheel since I have read the argument elsewhere, that the engine, transmission and gearbox have been designed in conjunction with the DMF and therefore making a change puts the other components at risk. Sounds like a sound argument.
  15. S Max Zetec 2007 TDCI 1.8 Looks as if I am having to fit a new flywheel and see that you can buy a solid conversion kit to replace the original Ford Dual Mass version. Anyone any thoughts? Regards