• Announcements

    • Stoney871

      Posting in General Chat thread.   11/11/2017

      it has been noted that too many Members are posting messages in the General Chat area instead of the correct Forums. Any messages posted in the General Chat area that are not General Chat will be deleted without warning and offenders may recieve warning points if repeated instances are seen from that Member. There are plenty of different Club areas that encompass 99% of Ford related posts, please select and use the correct one. If anyone is not sure of which area to post something then feel free to P/M myself or other Senior Staff for guidance. The Moderating Staff are having to spend far too much time chasing this problem instead of maintaining the other areas of the forum.


Budding Enthusiast
  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About pauljoanss

  • Rank
    Settling In Well

Contact Methods

  • First Name

Profile Information

  • Ford Model
  • Ford Year
  • UK/Ireland Location
  1. Battery Light

    2007 1.8 TDCI Battey light on approx 90% of the time. Voltage measured at 11.8 when engine off and 13.8 when engine running and light on. It appears the battery is charging so why us the light showing?
  2. Black Soot in Exhaust Pipe

    Planning to carry out the Wynn's EGR cleaner treatment tomorrow but not sure how I can run engine at the required 2000 rpm while working on my own, any ideas? Had hoped the Forscan software might provide a means but laptop playing up (Win 7, stuck in "preparing to configure Windows, do not turn off" for last few days) Regards
  3. Black Soot in Exhaust Pipe

    Peter, you are a fund of information, many thanks again. I will report back here with results but maybe a few weeks.
  4. Black Soot in Exhaust Pipe

    Many thanks for all that info Peter. Will certainly look to obtain the software and link. My plan A is to try Wynn's EGR cleaner, easy and cheap with some good reports. Plan B will probably be to blank the EGR, but will this give MOT problems. Plan C ??? Would be very interested to understand the mechanism whereby a faulty EGR produces soot in the exhaust. Regards
  5. Black Soot in Exhaust Pipe

    Son's car a 2007 1800 TDCI. It has been a bit low on power for some time and now engine malfunction light has been on for last 3 weeks. Just noticed today that there are very heavy black sooty deposits in exhaust pipe, rear box had large hole and again black sooty deposits around hole, Checked for faults with basic OBD device (using TORQUE App), only fault showing was "P0490 - Powertrain", web lookup came back with "Powertrain - Auxiliary - Emissions control - ISO/SAE Controlled Exaust Gas Recirculation "A" Control Circuit High" Visually no sign of smoke as he drove away. All ideas welcome. PS any advice on PC based software for fuller analyse of faults. Regards
  6. I am at the planing stage of changing the timing belt on my 2010 Focus with 108k on the clock. Garage quotes are coming in at around £350 so thought I would have a go, but shame I have waited for winter weather. Couple of questions. 1. It appears there are two types of tensioners, according to Haynes pre 2005 and post 2005, both Parts4less and Europarts show two tensioners types for this car but not clear from descriptions which one I need. One is pictured mounted on small arm and one without arm. 2. Bit confused over loosening of crankshaft pulley bolt. Haynes says remove starter motor and lock crankshaft using special tool (which I will buy). It also talks about holding the crankshaft pulley with tool to prevent turning while loosening bolt. Since the crankshaft is already locked with special tool, do you also need to hold the pulley. Maybe required to minimise stress on crankshaft? but makes it a two man job, one holding pulley and one undoing bolt with breaker arm. 3. Not clear if coolant pump driven from aux belt (would not replace) or timing belt (would replace), have different opinion from two garages and Haynes not clear but beginning to look like it runs from the timing belt. Have looked at engine and still not clear. 4. Willing to have a go at making guide for this job, is it worth it, as it seems most guides here are more about customising smaller things than bigger basic jobs. Is it assumed these types of jobs are best left to Haynes?
  7. 1.8 TDCI Lack of Power

    Just a quick update. Air filter changed and checked with basic OBD2 (has worked well with Fords in the past), result shows no stored codes. I was driving the car yesterday and the problem seems to be low power at low revs eg below 2,500 rpm, once the revs reach 2,500 rpm the the power really seems to kick in. So all is well if you keep in a lower gear than normal. That's why it is very easy to stall as you pull away.
  8. 1.8 TDCI Lack of Power

    Son's car, has done 115k miles and now short of power. You used to always feel the turbo cutting in but not any longer. Have to change down to get up quite minor hills, but once revs raised the power seems to get better but no clear cut in, just a general increase in power as revs rise. Also tends to stall on pull away because of low power. Had flywheel, clutch and timing belt changed recently, garage reported low power after the work and say they have not done anything to effect turbo. My son is a bit vague about when problem started but I get the impression it has been deteriorating for some time previous. All ideas welcome.
  9. Just to add my experience. Son in law has bonnet problem, tried screwdriver but no good. I also have a mk2 Focus so decided to take mine apart to see how it works and hope it helps solve problem on other car. On reassembly I wisely tested my catch before closing the bonnet and horror of horrors, it was not connecting. Studied parts and could not get the male cross to engage in the female collet connecting to the key. Read thro this thread and followed advice to cut off sprung lugs on white male cross, did not cut off completely, just the removed "catch" feature and also chamfered front edge. Parts now engaged with no problem and working perfectly, still have to tackle son in laws car but now happier knowing how parts are assembled.
  10. Haynes Manual Now Available

    "Please be aware that from August 2014, Haynes Publishing will now only print new print runs of car manuals in paperback. Hardback books are no longer in production. During the changeover period between hardback to paperback stock supplied may vary." Thought I saw this on the Haynes website but it was in fact on the EBay site selling manuals at £14 so make what you want of it. The last manual I bought (on EBay) was paperback and cheap, just checked publication date and it was 2013 so bit suspect. I have built up a small collection of Haynes manuals over my life and a bit sad that they will no longer look like a nice set on the book shelf. Never mind.
  11. The car has done 115k. I have now decided to stick with the original Dual Mass flywheel since I have read the argument elsewhere, that the engine, transmission and gearbox have been designed in conjunction with the DMF and therefore making a change puts the other components at risk. Sounds like a sound argument.
  12. S Max Zetec 2007 TDCI 1.8 Looks as if I am having to fit a new flywheel and see that you can buy a solid conversion kit to replace the original Ford Dual Mass version. Anyone any thoughts? Regards
  13. Haynes Manual Now Available

    I have long been frustrated that there is no manual for the S Max, but have just seen one on the Haynes Web Site, looks as if it has only just been published. https://haynes.co.uk/catalog/car-manuals/car-repair-manuals/ford/ford-s-max-galaxy-diesel-mar-06-july-15-06-15 Sad to see that manuals are no longer hardbacks, the last one I bought felt really cheap, paperback and poor quality paper and printing, I assumed it was a copy rather than original. £23 direct from Haynes or I have ordered one off Ebay for £14 (free P&P), sounds suspicious!
  14. S Max 2007 Zetec TDCI 1.8 I suspect I know the answer, but just wanted to make sure I am not missing anything. Clutch Pedal started to feel a bit dodgy 2 weeks ago, sometimes it would not return, had to lift back up with foot. Yesterday it failed completely and had to be AA'd home on truck. Today have tried bleeding the Slave cylinder but pedal has not recovered. Took bottom shield off engine to look underneath and can see liquid (could be brake fluid) leaking from vent hole at bottom of bell housing. Is this conclusive and why the hell have the placed the slave cylinder inside the bell housing when on older cars it was outside and easy to replace. Just one thing is nagging me, the fluid bleeding from the slave cylinder has quite a few black "rubber like" particles in it which I initially thought was an indication that the master cylinder had broken down. I assumed these could not have come from the slave cylinder because it appears to me that I am bleeding "upstream" from the cylinder or am I wrong? Regards
  15. 2007 SMax 1.8 Diesel (Son's car) Had leakage at joint between return line and injector body. Had seen this before and fortunately had spare O rings left from the last time. Dismantled joint and immediately saw o ring badly damaged, replaced with new, test drove and all was well. BUT as always happens, when my son drove it today the assembly failed and now a constant stream of fuel. The fault is now different, the return line male fitting will not stay in its respective female hole, it is held in place by a spring "R" type clip which drops into groove in the fitting and should retain the fitting. You can push it in, feel a location click and think all is well but as soon as the engine starts it gets pushed out by the pressure. Seems to be two options either the "R" spring has weakened or the groove in the plastic fitting has been damaged and lost definition. My concern is that both causes my be difficult to overcome eg The spring clip was an absolute B****r to refit (maybe I was wrong to remove it) and may have over stressed it in the process. Fitting a new one would present exactly the same problem and likely to be over stressed again. The plastic fitting appears to be permanently attached to the drain pipe (I could be wrong) and therefore cannot be replaced as a single entity. Would welcome comments from anyone who has had similar experience or any advice. My short term solution it to retain the fitting in place by wiring it to the injector body, also considering cutting deeper groove in fitting body using a hacksaw blade. Note to minimize risk of damage to O ring at assembly, I coated the fitting with grease, this may have contributed to the problem.