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pauljoanss

Budding Enthusiast
  • Content count

    68
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About pauljoanss

  • Rank
    Settling In Well

Profile Information

  • Ford Model
    Focus
  1. Son's car, has done 115k miles and now short of power. You used to always feel the turbo cutting in but not any longer. Have to change down to get up quite minor hills, but once revs raised the power seems to get better but no clear cut in, just a general increase in power as revs rise. Also tends to stall on pull away because of low power. Had flywheel, clutch and timing belt changed recently, garage reported low power after the work and say they have not done anything to effect turbo. My son is a bit vague about when problem started but I get the impression it has been deteriorating for some time previous. All ideas welcome.
  2. Just to add my experience. Son in law has bonnet problem, tried screwdriver but no good. I also have a mk2 Focus so decided to take mine apart to see how it works and hope it helps solve problem on other car. On reassembly I wisely tested my catch before closing the bonnet and horror of horrors, it was not connecting. Studied parts and could not get the male cross to engage in the female collet connecting to the key. Read thro this thread and followed advice to cut off sprung lugs on white male cross, did not cut off completely, just the removed "catch" feature and also chamfered front edge. Parts now engaged with no problem and working perfectly, still have to tackle son in laws car but now happier knowing how parts are assembled.
  3. "Please be aware that from August 2014, Haynes Publishing will now only print new print runs of car manuals in paperback. Hardback books are no longer in production. During the changeover period between hardback to paperback stock supplied may vary." Thought I saw this on the Haynes website but it was in fact on the EBay site selling manuals at £14 so make what you want of it. The last manual I bought (on EBay) was paperback and cheap, just checked publication date and it was 2013 so bit suspect. I have built up a small collection of Haynes manuals over my life and a bit sad that they will no longer look like a nice set on the book shelf. Never mind.
  4. The car has done 115k. I have now decided to stick with the original Dual Mass flywheel since I have read the argument elsewhere, that the engine, transmission and gearbox have been designed in conjunction with the DMF and therefore making a change puts the other components at risk. Sounds like a sound argument.
  5. S Max Zetec 2007 TDCI 1.8 Looks as if I am having to fit a new flywheel and see that you can buy a solid conversion kit to replace the original Ford Dual Mass version. Anyone any thoughts? Regards
  6. I have long been frustrated that there is no manual for the S Max, but have just seen one on the Haynes Web Site, looks as if it has only just been published. https://haynes.co.uk/catalog/car-manuals/car-repair-manuals/ford/ford-s-max-galaxy-diesel-mar-06-july-15-06-15 Sad to see that manuals are no longer hardbacks, the last one I bought felt really cheap, paperback and poor quality paper and printing, I assumed it was a copy rather than original. £23 direct from Haynes or I have ordered one off Ebay for £14 (free P&P), sounds suspicious!
  7. S Max 2007 Zetec TDCI 1.8 I suspect I know the answer, but just wanted to make sure I am not missing anything. Clutch Pedal started to feel a bit dodgy 2 weeks ago, sometimes it would not return, had to lift back up with foot. Yesterday it failed completely and had to be AA'd home on truck. Today have tried bleeding the Slave cylinder but pedal has not recovered. Took bottom shield off engine to look underneath and can see liquid (could be brake fluid) leaking from vent hole at bottom of bell housing. Is this conclusive and why the hell have the placed the slave cylinder inside the bell housing when on older cars it was outside and easy to replace. Just one thing is nagging me, the fluid bleeding from the slave cylinder has quite a few black "rubber like" particles in it which I initially thought was an indication that the master cylinder had broken down. I assumed these could not have come from the slave cylinder because it appears to me that I am bleeding "upstream" from the cylinder or am I wrong? Regards
  8. 2007 SMax 1.8 Diesel (Son's car) Had leakage at joint between return line and injector body. Had seen this before and fortunately had spare O rings left from the last time. Dismantled joint and immediately saw o ring badly damaged, replaced with new, test drove and all was well. BUT as always happens, when my son drove it today the assembly failed and now a constant stream of fuel. The fault is now different, the return line male fitting will not stay in its respective female hole, it is held in place by a spring "R" type clip which drops into groove in the fitting and should retain the fitting. You can push it in, feel a location click and think all is well but as soon as the engine starts it gets pushed out by the pressure. Seems to be two options either the "R" spring has weakened or the groove in the plastic fitting has been damaged and lost definition. My concern is that both causes my be difficult to overcome eg The spring clip was an absolute B****r to refit (maybe I was wrong to remove it) and may have over stressed it in the process. Fitting a new one would present exactly the same problem and likely to be over stressed again. The plastic fitting appears to be permanently attached to the drain pipe (I could be wrong) and therefore cannot be replaced as a single entity. Would welcome comments from anyone who has had similar experience or any advice. My short term solution it to retain the fitting in place by wiring it to the injector body, also considering cutting deeper groove in fitting body using a hacksaw blade. Note to minimize risk of damage to O ring at assembly, I coated the fitting with grease, this may have contributed to the problem.
  9. Cannot measure when locked, battery must be connected to lock, if then disconnected, the alarm goes off as soon as the meter connects between battery and wire terminal. I am beginning to think a drain of 0.8amps (10 watts) may be normal. Tonight I ran the car stationary for 45 mins to charge the battery, then disconnected it overnight. if the battery is flat tomorrow then confirms a dud battery.
  10. I have just done some more measurements and the drain is 1.8 amps at first contact, at this point there are a few humming noises from the dashboard, after about 10 secs the noises stop and the drain settles down to 0.8 amps eg about 10 watts. Is this ok??
  11. My son has an S Max and children 3, 5 & 7, he seems to have all sorts of combinations of seats over the last 3 years and all fitted ok, but cannot comment on particular seat models.
  12. Having battery trouble, keeps going flat overnight, it may simply be a dud battery (5years old) but during my failed attempts to fit a new one (I ran out of time), I noticed sparking when reconnecting old battery. Thought this a bit strange because nothing switched on, connected meter between terminal and live lead, it measured 1.5 amps. Now I know the basic systems of the car will be taking some power but 1.5 amps sounds very high to me, although because only 12v, I suppose it is only 18 watts. Do not want to fit brand new battery £70 if the problem is somewhere else. Is this "normal" or have I got a problem.
  13. Very similar to my experience with an Smax, up to step 20 when car fired up for few seconds then died and would not start. Then spent many hours trying to get all the air out. Managed it finally but now want to buy a pump for the next time, my local car shop just look blank, any recommendations what/where to buy?
  14. Sorry that remaining error should have read "cooling fan rationality check" (?).
  15. Sorry for taking so long to report back but wanted to make sure the problem was properly solved.The garage replaced the glow plugs, they had problems as predicted and in the end had to keep the car for 2 days. I have no question this was genuine because I called in a couple of times during the 2 days. The engine warning light is now off and all faults clear except for one about "fan continuity" (?) and it is running well, so very happy. The garage charged me an extra 1/2 hour labour so it came to around £185 in the end and I was quite happy. So all is well, the garage is Wantage MOT Center (Wantage Oxfordshire), I have always found them very helpful and fair.