JasonQ

Budding Enthusiast
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About JasonQ

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  • Ford Model
    Focus Mk2 1.8 TDCi LX
  1. I have a 55 plate Focus 1.8Tdci and I’m looking to replace the glow plugs as at least one isn’t working – lumpy starting when cold, fine when warm. I’m fairly mechanically minded and have done glow plugs on a mid 90's Astra before. Should I disconnect the battery or can I get away without doing so? And is there anything else I need to lookout for? Jason.
  2. Mine does this too but only at lower engine revs. I also notice the healights dim if the engine is close to tic over speed and I put in a lot of steering input (I believe there's an electrical assist on the power steering). Also I only notice this after just setting off so the glow plugs may also be drawing current. I've always assumed the alternator isn't able to output enough amps to do everything when operating at slower engine speeds so somethings got to give, hence lights dim, fan speed slows etc. etc. Jason
  3. You've basically got the idea, but here's what I do to remove mine without a Haynes (3 times to date). This may not be the offical or best way but it worked for me and regardless there is always a risk of breaking something so proceed in a firm but careful manor - I haven't broken anything yet. Remove the two screws located in the inner handles. Now all that’s holding it on are a number of push fit pegs. I open the tail gate so the panel is fairly horizontal so I can sort of half stand under it and work from there. I start at one side and ease the panel away from the door - it’ll make a nasty grinding noise as each peg is released - I work my way across to the other side pulling at the edge, all the time supporting the panel from underneath. I’ve sometimes had to carefully slide a flat hand between the edge of the panel and tail gate and ‘clench a fist’ to pop a peg that’s near the middle (does that make sense). The trickiest part I’ve found is where the panel meets the two uprights panels that run up the sides of the window – I’ve never taken these off but have eased and pulled at them until the main panel is released from under them. Refitting requires the overlap with the two window panels to be engaged first (it doesn't look possible otherwise) this also helps to align the panel in the right place. Then I basically slap the pegs back into their holes with the flat of my hand from the outside of the panel then replace the screws. Jason.
  4. Your guide was a help but I don’t think it’s for the model of Focus I have (55 plate Mk2 1.8TDCi Estate); for instance the condenser wasn’t held in place with bolts or screws, however as I say it was a good starting point and gave me clues as how to proceed, so thank you :-) For completeness here’s what I did. To gain access: Remove the engine under-tray and the second (more forward) section of under-tray under the front bumper. Remove the front grill containing and the plastic cover that joins the grill to the panel with the bonnet catch on it. (At this point it was obvious the condenser matrix was the source of the leak) Remove left and right headlight assemblies, just to provide better visibility and improve accessibility - I’d previously worked out how to do this when changing a bulb - and incidentally with the off side headlight out there is much better access to the dryer bottle assembly – if that’s its official name. Remove the two pieces of plastic/rubber trim, one left and one right, which channel air from the bumper to the front of radiators. One screw per piece, nearside a bit of a pain to get to screw. Removal of condenser Undo two A/C pipe from top of condenser, covering end of each pipe with a small plastic bag or cling film to stop dirt ingress. Undo two small bolts on underside of intercooler that hold it onto its mounts. Lift intercooler off its plastic mounts and ease forward on its rubber pipes. The Condenser has four tabs with which it is mounted to the main radiator assembly. The top two slide into plastic mounts with no locking – these can be seen quite easily with trim removed. The bottom mounts/tabs are harder to get to. The tabs are held in their plastic mounts by a plastic clip on top of the mount, the clip needs to be push (gently) towards the rear of the car whilst the condenser if lifted up clear of the mount; I used a flat blade screw driver to push the clip back whilst lifting the condenser; I was able to do one side at a time on my own. Once the condenser was out of its mounts I managed to move it down between the intercooler and main radiator and remove it from the under side of the car. It was a case of carefully moving it past the various obstructions, not hugely time consuming or difficult but just needed to be done carefully and patiently to avoid damage to the main radiator and intercooler. If I’d bothered to undo the two clamps that hold the intercooler to the rubber pipes and remove the intercooler completely the last bit would have been easier still, but my clamps are a rusty mess and I didn’t have any replacements to hand so left well alone (replacement clamps to be fitted soon). Other than to remove the under-tray I didn’t jack the car up at all, but again it may have made it easier when taking the condenser out the last few inches, but I managed without doing so anyway. Putting the new one in I first taped a layer cardboard to each side of the new condenser to protect the matrix whilst I negotiated its way back up between intercooler and radiator. Once back in and close to its final position I removed the cardboard and dropped the condenser’s four tabs into the mounts, the lower clips doing their job and springing back into place over the tabs - no need to manipulate them when fitting. It’s was then a case of attaching A/C pipes, remounting and bolting the intercooler back in place and re-fitting headlights and all the panels in the reverse of the above.
  5. Thank you for your reply and I'm fortunate enough to work with a guy who is an aircon specialist; he pressure tested, degassed and evacuated the system fully, then weighted back in a full charge of refridgerant for me 18 months ago; so I'm aware of the points you raise :-) The only one I can't conform this time to is not venting the gas to the atmosphere - as its happened already due to the leak - there's no pressure. So provided I can get the old condenser out and the new one fitted - if that's where the leak is and all signs suggest it is - he's willing to do the pressure test, evacuate, re-gas job for the nominal price of the refridgerant. So any advise on how you get the condenser off the main radiator and out of the car would be appriciated. :-) Jason.
  6. I think I have a failed Air-Con radiator (condenser?) on my 55 plate 1.8TDCI. This is the radiator that the refrigerant gas passes through that sits at the front of the engine bay, in front of the normal engine water radiator. I haven’t got a Haynes manual and I can’t figure out how to remove it from the car. It looks like it’s clipped to the main engine radiator; can anyone shed any light on how to remove it from the car? Can it be removed with the main radiator in place (and for that matter the intercooler as well) or do I have to take the main radiator out as well? Jason
  7. Thank you and apologies - I was aware of these but had heard from colleagues at work that removing them afterwards without scratching the headlight covers or leaving a nasty sticky residue is very difficult. So how easy are these to remove (will be on there for 3 weeks), any hints on how too remove successfully? Jason.
  8. I've done searches on various words and can't find anything on this. I'm intending to driving in France during the summer and need to either fit beam deflectors or a mask / sheild to my 2005 Focus Mk2 standard healamps. Are there any details about how to do this? I found a post showing a template for an C-Max (or might have been an S-Max) - is there anything similar I can get hold of for the a standard Mk2 Focus? Appologies if this has been covered before but I can't find it via the search :-( Cheers Jason.
  9. Fair comment, but for me the dealer nearest is a lot less convenient to get to and they're not open in the evenings (after 6pm) - when I did use them for an air-con pipe and the bonnet release catch and key lock the price was very reasonable - its just being able to get there, order stuff and then get back to pick it up - usually a few days later (obviously not the consumables). And I'm still left wondering if a 1.8TDCi in a 55 body shell is different from other 1.8TDCi :) Jason.
  10. I've owned my 55 plate 1.8TDCi (DuraTorq) Estate for a few weeks now and have had a few problems sourcing consumables. I started out asking for an oil filter from my local motor factors (a large head branch) - I gave them the registration of the car and I got an oil filter - but this oil filter wasn't the right size - it was approximately 1/2" larger diameter than the one on the car (same length). So I took it back and after a bit of digging the (very helpful) chap behind the counter found a couple of filter books (rather than their computer), in both these books the same filter as the computer was quoted for the 1.8TDCi (i.e. the wrong size for mine) but one listed an alternate - this turned out to be the correct size filter. I then got around to the air filter - happened to be passing Halfords (rarely use them but was convenient on this day) - used their flip page book on the shelf which listed two 1.8TDCi (if I recall correctly they were 2000 to 2005 and 2001 to 2005) but both listed as same air filter so picked it off the shelf - this turned out to be too small. Took it back and the guy in Halfords types my reg into their computer and said "Not one listed for that car". So got my money back and went back to the motor factors gave them the registration and they returned (first time) with the correct size. So now I'm a bit concerned for the future and sourcing more major parts - timing belts etc. Is this something others have found on the 1.8TDCi's on a 55 plate? Is it a bit of a parts mongrel or have just ended up with a bit of bad luck? Jason