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About fladavid

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  1. Engine management light

    Just used my fault code reader and found one fault (see screenshots). Not sure if this fault would cause the dashboard dials to start working, and the EM light to extinguish, 14 seconds after starting the car though? Or perhaps that's a separate problem?
  2. Engine management light

    My 55 plate 2.0 Ghia Focus has a problem with the engine management light. When I start the car it illuminates for approximately 10 seconds and then goes out and doesn't come on again. During that 10 seconds the rev counter, temperature guage, fuel guage and,I assume if I was driving, the speedometer don't liven up at all. When they all come on and start showing readings the engine management light extinguishes. Has anybody had similar problems?
  3. 6000Cd Loss Of Rear Speakers And Now Fade!

    Hi. No mine didn't have the aux port. Mine had a fixed car phone I'm guessing looking at the holes and whoever removed it before I bought the car has made a hash of the wiring!
  4. Air con leak

    Just been to have my air con topped up at Halfords and the guy said that I have a leak in the system. Not knowing anything about air con has anyone got any ideas where the leak might be and roughly how much to fix this problem? Is there a common fault on these cars where i should look first?
  5. Radio fascia blanking/pocket adapter?

    They're £18 each so I dont really fancy buying one at that price let alone two tbh. You know what Halfords are like?
  6. Fuse layout to add piggyback connector

    I'm not really up on electrics at all tbh and wouldn't know how to go about that test. I really believe that at some point a fitted phone cradle was in the car due to the holes left in the centre console and before I bought it someone removed it badly and the wiring to the speakers were left wired up incorrectly. God knows how anyone would work out what had happened there! I've also come to the end of my tether with it and have bought a Bluetooth speaker for the car and added another post here asking for advice about a facia to block the head unit hole. Thanks for everybody's help over the last few weeks but this one has beaten me. Any ideas about the fascia posted above?
  7. After weeks of trying to get my speakers working and getting frustrated at every turn I've decided to call it a day and just disconnect everything and I've bought a Bluetooth speaker instead as I was going to use my phone through the new head unit anyway to play music. I wondered if anybody knew if I could get such a thing as a facia with preferably one large cubby hole or two worst ways to fill the hole where the radio was? The Bluetooth speaker could sit in it out of the way. I know Halfords do a single din fascia with one pocket and obviously the hole for the head unit but I wondered if there was such a thing on sale with one large pocket or two smaller ones only to completely blank off the head unit hole. Hope someone can help. Thanks.
  8. Fuse layout to add piggyback connector

    Just fitted the radio with the piggyback connector in fuse holder 130. It already had a 7.5 amp fuse in the fuse box so I put that into the lower part of the piggyback connector and a 10 amp fuse in the upper part. Is that the correct way to do it? I also noticed that no power is supplied to fuse 130 in the first two ignition positions, only when the car is running. As for the speakers cables I connected them up and I got the rear left speaker and the front right tweeter working. Bizarrely I tried pulling apart the speaker cables and noticed that the purple/white and grey/white cables which should feed the rear left speaker was feeding it but was also feeding the front right tweeter. I think something nasty has happened to the speaker wires somewhere down the line. Think my only option is to buy two surface mounted speakers and run new cable to the footwell and forget about the old wiring completely.
  9. Fuse layout to add piggyback connector

    The issue with the speakers is that they all intermittently go on and off randomly. Bizarrely it seems that if the car has got hot in the sun they might work but if the car is cold they dont work at all. I thought it might be the quad lock connector so I removed it and wired the speaker cables individually with bullet connectors but it is still the same. Ironically both tweeters were working even when the four main door speakers weren't but now only the right door tweeter is working. I'm not much of a mechanic so dont know if the speakers are all earthed at one point and that is the problem?
  10. Fuse layout to add piggyback connector

    This job is turning into a nightmare tbh. So without being able to run new speaker cables to the existing speakers in the doors the only option I have is to run new cables to surface mounted speakers placed possibly in the footwell. Has anybody got any ideas what reasonably priced ones to buy and where I should site them? Can you use normal door speakers in a mount that attaches to the interior somewhere?
  11. Fuse layout to add piggyback connector

    Also looking online just now I assumed that the cables went through the rubber grommet into the door and on to the speaker connection but a guy on the Ford Focus ST site said that it isn't possible as the door has a Molex connector. Does anybody know if that is correct and how I can get round it if it is?
  12. Fuse layout to add piggyback connector

    Regarding running the power cable up to to back of the dashboard and running new speakers wires down to the front doors only is there room to push them through into the footwell either side so that they can be run through the doors to the existing speakers? And any ideas how to get them down each side of the dashboard to the footwell?
  13. Fuse layout to add piggyback connector

    I thought that but JW1982 says it's a permanent live fuse.
  14. Fuse layout to add piggyback connector

    Thanks. Really helpful.
  15. Fuse layout to add piggyback connector

    Not being totally up on electrics at all would I get away with inserting a piggyback blade fuse connector into F130 and the radio being ok working on a 10 amp fuse only? Your suggestion is a bit beyond my limited capabilities unfortunately.