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About m1tch

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    Too much time on the boards
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  • Annual Mileage
    20,001 to 25,000
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    Classic Cars
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  1. Have you had a look under the car or perhaps jacked up the car and taken the wheel off?
  2. Did you replace the small bit of wiring loom going to the injectors, might be something simple like a short in the wiring?
  3. Is it a 1.25 Zetec by any chance?
  4. Nice review, I was waiting for some decent LED headlights to be worth getting, I take it that the beam pattern is unaffected?
  5. Diesel purge is what I use, you run it neat through the high pressure pump, makes a difference - have you had the airbox off to check the leak off line isn't leaking and putting air into the lines?
  6. The 1.4 TDCi remaps well, i've not done it myself but I know there is quite a bit of headroom there, I have just got an induction kit on mine and removed the restrictive air filter box and its improved no end and that's on stock mapping.
  7. Stay away from the DV6 engine.
  8. Get a leak off test done on the injectors, if one injector is leaking off too much fuel it drops the overall fuel rail pressure and can be quite hard to start, also, when did you change the fuel filter?
  9. It's just a sensor, so just unplug the old one if its failed and plug in a new one.
  10. Whats the insurance like on that thing?
  11. Make sure that the water pump you put in has a metal impeller, mine had a plastic impeller which shattered just before Christmas meaning the whole job had to be done again.
  12. Have you checked all wiring to things like the MAF are secure and that the induction kit itself has a bracket etc.
  13. Does sound like the thermostat is stuck open, when the engine is cold open the expansion tank and see if there is coolant circulating, I have a feeling that the thermostat might be stuck open causing the engine to be overcooled. Easy to change though, just 4 bolts on the side of the engine plus a few hoses, part is cheap - think I got mine for something like £20 on ebay, just make sure you have some additional coolant as it will drain some of it but not much. Also removing the brake vacuum pump which sits above it helps with access to the rear bolts (only 2 bolts holding that on).
  14. Just a quick update on this, it was the water pump as expected, the impeller shattered at around 25k miles of motorway driving meaning that the cambelt was fine but there just wasn't anything connected to the other side! I have had the pump replaced along with the cambelt at the same time and its all running as it should - returning low 70 mpg on the trip computer on the way into work this morning. Just a note on how to spot if the pump has failed, when the engine is cold open the expansion tank and then start the engine, if you see water circulating in the expansion tank its not the water pump. With my issue I found that the thermostat side of the engine was hot/warm and could manually pump water by squeezing the top rad hose (also warm meaning the thermostat was fine) but the pipes from the water pump were cold. Also the heater was completely cold but I could get some heat for a few seconds after manually pumping the top rad hose. Also pump the bottom rad hose to check that the radiator itself isn't blocked - pumping both top or bottom rad hoses should result in movement in the expansion tank.
  15. Ignore the Ford recommended interval, its just there to keep fleet managers happy, cambelt should be changed at normal interval lengths of around 70k miles - it's a rubber belt which perishes over time. Option is to either change the belt at a sensible mileage (along with the water pump) or just wait for the cambelt to snap and replace the engine.