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      Posting in General Chat thread.   11/11/2017

      it has been noted that too many Members are posting messages in the General Chat area instead of the correct Forums. Any messages posted in the General Chat area that are not General Chat will be deleted without warning and offenders may recieve warning points if repeated instances are seen from that Member. There are plenty of different Club areas that encompass 99% of Ford related posts, please select and use the correct one. If anyone is not sure of which area to post something then feel free to P/M myself or other Senior Staff for guidance. The Moderating Staff are having to spend far too much time chasing this problem instead of maintaining the other areas of the forum.


Tdci-Peter

True Ford Enthusiast
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Tdci-Peter last won the day on November 5

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About Tdci-Peter

  • Rank
    Ford Enthusiast

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  • First Name
    Peter

Profile Information

  • Gender*
    Male
  • Ford Model
    1.8 TDCI Mk2
  • Ford Year
    2006
  • UK/Ireland Location
    Dorset
  • Interests
    General Automotive
    Computers & Electronics

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6,762 profile views
  1. power loss 1.6 tdci

    It goes to the boost solenoid valve. Though exactly how, I have not seen! From another thread: The valve has a 2 wire connector and 3 pipes on it. The pipes are from the left, vent (to the small air filter on the end of a pipe at the back of the engine bay, just under the wipers), vacuum out to the actuator and vacuum in from the vacuum pump via a reservoir (black plastic blob left of the valve). ---- (The vent pipe may also go to a spigot just after the airbox, opposite the MAF, but this vent pipe is not likely to be the cause of the problem) This is from: There is a photo of the valve in that post.
  2. power loss 1.6 tdci

    Is the turbo actuator rod moving with engine start yet? If not, there must be a problem with the vacuum system somewhere, or the actuator is jammed. If possible, try direct connection of the vacuum hose (that goes from the vacuum pump or brake servo, to the solenoid) to the turbo actuator. That would test for a broken wire or electrical problem powering the solenoid, If the brakes work properly, the vacuum pump must be ok. If the vacuum hose hisses when pulled off, and does not move the turbo when connected to it, then the actuator must be jammed. Also a log using Forscan while driving might show if the turbo is working partly, or not at all.
  3. Ford Focus Mk2 Common Problems Thread

    Another note on the lower (wet) timing belt. I just looked at one thread on this, and a mechanic said Ford changed back to the chain on the '09 engine. You should be able to check with Etis, or a main dealer or spares site, which system your engine has. See:
  4. Things I Don't Like

    Yes, and they usually ignore horse riders and cyclists, sweeping past at their standard 40, inches away! I also detest drivers who keep fiddling with the brake pedal for no reason, flashing the stop lights. And apply the brakes very slightly on every single little downhill bit. "Oh my God, the car is accelerating out of control, I must put the brake lights on!" --- Imbeciles! Plan ahead, Drive with care and consideration approaching and around obstructions, then get a move on when safe to do so. If they can not do those basics, they should not be out on the main roads. I appreciate that a car can be a lifeline for the elderly, like my mother up to about a year ago, when she became too ill to drive at all. But she only used the car for trips of a mile or two to the local shop. No real problem for other road users.
  5. Ford Focus Mk2 Common Problems Thread

    This is my standard intro to Forscan: Forscan is a powerful Ford specific system, Cost is about £16.00 for the interface. It needs a computer of some sort. (COM port, USB, Bluetooth or WiFi interfaces available). You will find a lot about ELM327 & Forscan on this site, which together provide a very comprehensive diagnosis & maintenance tool. James (jeebowhite) has done a nice guide: http://www.fordownersclub.com/forums/applications/core/interface/file/attachment.php?id=21196 The Tunnelrat ELM327s have been reported to work well by several people, and are stated to be compatible with Forscan and ELMConfig. http://www.spanglefish.com/TunnelratElectronics/index.asp?pageid=516992 or https://tunnelrat-electronics.fwscart.com/ Forscan works best on a Windows laptop, with a USB ELM. Forscan is also available for iOS & Android for some tablets & phones, using USB if available, or Bluetooth or WiFi ELMs. But there are some limitations. Wireless ELMs are often not as reliable as the wired ones. Also they are rarer in the "modified" form which is needed to access the 2nd Ford bus system. This 2nd bus is the MS-CAN bus, and links all the car interior electronics like door modules, and the BCM (aka GEM). But a standard ELM will still work with all the Underbonnet Modules (PCM, ABS etc) and with the IC (Instrument Cluster). The Forscan programme is free (in Windows format) and you can get it from: http://forscan.org/download.html Note: Simply reading the codes can do no harm, and does not change anything. Just do not reset the codes (and you would have to ask the scanner to do this) if you are going to take the car to a garage. ----------------- I can guide you through the process of doing data logs while driving if you wish. It is a bit fiddly to set up, but once running should not interfere with or distract from driving the car. Here is a link to some info on the injectors: It is a bit long and confusing in places. But the symptoms you describe do not match up with the symptoms described for this injector failure. It is usually hesitations under acceleration, followed by the MIL coming on with injector error codes stored. So hopefully this does not apply to your car! Re MPG: I got 56 on a m/way run this summer. My normal mileage is no m/way, about one third is with a trailer & heavy load, quite a lot on little lanes, and some short trips, with just a few decent main road runs. Even there I get about 50 mpg in summer, 47mpg in winter. So if your 47 is on a decent main road run, that is a little low.
  6. Limp mode after new thermostat housing

    If there is bad leak in this pipe, it could confuse the ECU enough to cause a problem. The MAF is just after the airbox, and if most of the engine air is going in via the leak, it will read low, so the ECU will not know how how much air is going in. But this does not stack up with the error codes listed in the original post. Maybe those were just one off codes due to a harness being disconnected during the work on the car. Also dirt and dust can get into the engine via the leak, so it needs fixing!
  7. Ford Focus Mk2 Common Problems Thread

    Just a minute, the Duratec is the petrol 1.8! Can you confirm it is the diesel (Duratorq) 1.8TDCI? Assuming it is the diesel (and 47mpg would be very good for the petrol 1.8 !), then 2 things to look out for are the injectors, and the lower timing belt. There was a bad batch of injectors for the whole 1.8TDCI family in 2008, that may affect some 2009 models. There is a batch number ending in 3 on the questionable ones. There is more info on this site. The earlier 1.8TDCIs had a lower timing chain, and an upper belt. The chain was replaced by a 2nd belt in about 2007. Although the official service life is 100k & 10 years, If I recall, there have been reported failures earlier. And some garages do not seem to know about the change, and do not service the lower belt, which is a much harder job to replace than the upper belt. At 72k this is probably close to needing doing. I rarely take my 1.8 much over 3000rpm, there is not much point as max torque is 1900rpm, and although max power is about 4000, there is not a lot to be gained by holding in the lower gear. But it does go smoothly through the 3000 mark. So I am not sure what would cause that. The turbo should be fully up to speed before 2000rpm, so it would not seem to be that. Air filter & fuel filter are two simple things to try changing if they are of unknown make, age or condition. A garage check may well not reveal much, as they can not do any power tests unless they have a (very rare) dynamometer. A system like Forscan is available for as little as £16, and allows you to log Turbo boost and many other parameters while driving, under real conditions.
  8. Limp mode after new thermostat housing

    If the turbo was not being activated, then that would naturally limit the power, and might cause smoke, due to insufficient air. I suggest getting a decent diagnostic system, preferably something like Forscan (£16 for the ELM327 adapter & free download of s/w for Windows). This can probe other modules like the IC (dash) and BCM (aka GEM or Passenger fuse box). If there are wiring or connection problems, these modules may have additional errors. Generic OBD2 systems will read most engine related codes, but do not always give a full picture. In the meantime, keep an eye on the coolant and oil levels, to make sure the smoke is not steam or burning oil. It is most likely to be fuel, but it is wise to check. Being able to clear the error codes and see if and when they come back can help with diagnosis. At the moment it could still be a great many things.
  9. Has Fuel Pump Died?

    You are right to ask. I would guess either solder them back and seal with hot-melt shrink wrap sleeves, but that is quite a technical solution. Or just use a terminal block. I know the reliability of terminal blocks under the bonnet is questionable and the screws rust, but at the moment the car is useless! I have several terminal blocks around my engine (carrying non-critical signals like extra temperature sensors), and they have survived ok for a few years now. I think there is room for terminal blocks or sealing wraps. The 4 wires seem to go into that sleeve that runs down the back end of the pump to the black plastic bit in the middle.
  10. Has Fuel Pump Died?

    From photos of the engine, the module is on top of the pump, and should be accessible, though it is under a couple of high pressure fuel pipes. From the description of the removal operation on the Ebay website above, it looks like removal of the module alone should be possible, albeit not easy. But then very few jobs are easy on cars now!
  11. Limp mode after new thermostat housing

    Clutch change, then headlamps flicker and an apparently unrelated bunch of electrical fault codes. P0380: Glow plug/Heater, circuit A - malfunction P0047 Turbo/Supercharger Boost Control A Circuit Low P2683 Engine Coolant Bypass Valve Control Circuit High P0691 - Fan 1 Control Circuit Low U0140 Lost Communication With Body Control Module The first thing I would look at is the main earth connection to the engine. The heavy wire from battery -ve that usually goes to a bell housing bolt near the starter motor. Check the connection and that the wire has no weak points near a crimp. Then the rest of the main earth wiring, Battery to engine & battery to body. Then maybe damage to the wiring harness to the ECU. And for water ingress into that harness. If the C-Max is the same as the Focus, then the ECU is in the passenger wheel arch, and a fat cable goes to it from the engine. There is an access door visible if the wheel arch liner is removed, to see inside the ECU housing.
  12. How did you get into DIY Car Maintenance?

    Very true! When you are working on your one & only means of transport, and it all starts going a bit pear shaped, it does get a bit lonely and stressful . Will it all go back together again, or am I going to have to "phone a friend" (if I can find one!), to get me out of trouble ? Also Haynes is rather hit and miss. It is an invaluable source of information to be sure, but a lot is missed out, misleading, or even just plain wrong. But then the internet is rather the other way round, the amount of garbage out there (here?) greatly exceeds the amount of truly good info. But there are some real gems of useful stuff to be found. My father was a vintage motorbike enthusiast. I was surrounded by bits of engine, frames, and related things, since before I can remember. He also dabbled (haphazardly) with TVs & Radios, so electrical and electronic components were also in the mix. I partly re-built a Triumph Tiger Cub (200cc motorbike), which made a lot of noise, but was not really much use. Then I was given the Hillman Imp that had been the family 2nd car. It needed a complete engine re-build, as Imps seemed to (and probably still do) need every few years. That was quite fun, as a teenager. But I had the resources of my Dad's quite well equipped workshop, and his (not always reliable ) assistance, to call on when needed. After leaving home, doing car maintenance at the roadside, outside the house, with no backup, was a lot more of a challenge. But a £100 garage bill sounded like a lot of money in those days, so I did what I could. As my work commitments increased, and my financial situation got better, I did less, and used garages more. But there were occasions when I felt I had to do it myself. My Triumph 2000 had a problem with hot starting: One place said valves, another said pistons. I felt it was valves, but was not sure. So I bought a cheap MoT fail car, and swapped the heads over in the works car park, in February. There was ice on the puddles! I must have been tougher then, I could not do that now. It was valves, and the swap did work, but it was a painful, hard weekend of work! My DIY has increased quite a lot with my current Focus. Most of my previous cars were bought quickly, either due to urgent need, or on impulse, but the Focus was the result of several weeks of research and searching. The rising cost of garage repairs, and the complexity of these modern cars going beyond the capability of many local garages, plus the Focus being a bit more "valued" by me, has resulted in a lot more work done by me. But also a general decline in my financial situation () may be a contributory factor! I certainly would not claim that my abilities exceed a local garage, but I am prepared to do the research, and put the effort in to not only do the job, but look for other problems at the same time. No garage could afford to do this, without charging horrific amounts. Maybe a result of the extra work is that it has passed all the 6 MoTs I have had to have done. Brakes & corrosion are certainly areas where I have had many fails in the past, but avoided on this car so far. Apologies for the life story, but that is how I got into car maintenance.
  13. Power steering malfunction and total loss of power

    If one of the diodes had failed in the alternator, it would 99% likely short out the battery supply, and burn out the fusible link from the battery. And it would get very hot while doing so, and smoke. This could take out all power to the car, and maybe damage the battery. So it needs looking at by an auto-electrician, a good garage, or someone with knowledge & equipment to test charging systems and batteries. With luck, it will just be the alternator and fusible link. However, another possibility is some other major short circuit on the high power part of the wiring, or even a faulty battery. So it would not be a good idea to just stick in a replacement alternator, power up and start it, without some tests first.
  14. This hose broke from the airbox - what is it?

    I suspect that pipe is the vent line to the turbo vacuum solenoid, which is hidden right down the back of the engine. If so, it goes to the airbox outlet so that dirt & water do not get sucked into the vacuum system. If it is just the vent return, then it will have no effect on the turbo if that hose is open to atmosphere, at least until some dirt gets sucked in. The other problem with that break is that the air inlet is below atmospheric, so dirt can also get drawn into the engine air intake system. One solution would be to block the hole in the air box, and fit some simple filter over the little pipe to the solenoid. Of course, it may have some other purpose altogether, I can not trace the pipe, but I know the turbo solenoid has three pipes, that must go somewhere! I think it is usually the 90PS version that has the vacuum turbo.
  15. Has Fuel Pump Died?

    If it is an internal electronic fault as Wilco suggests (he is usually right!), then one option would be a repair, I have seen the service offered for £40, though you would have to remove & refit the pump. See: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/REPAIR-SERVICE-Bosch-VP44-VP30-Diesel-Fuel-Injection-Pump-PSG5-EDC-EDU-Module-/131672808505 (I have no info on the quality of this service!)