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Tdci-Peter

True Ford Enthusiast
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Tdci-Peter last won the day on July 22

Tdci-Peter had the most liked content!

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About Tdci-Peter

  • Rank
    Ford Enthusiast

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  • First Name
    Peter

Profile Information

  • Gender*
    Male
  • Ford Model
    1.8 TDCI Mk2
  • Ford Year
    2006
  • UK/Ireland Location
    Dorset
  • Interests
    General Automotive
    Computers & Electronics

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  1. The PCM drives the ac relay coil. This then goes via C90 (the big connector in the Engine Fuse Box or FJB) to the solenoid. The pressure sensors / switches are connected to the PCM. The wiring diagram is on this site (Mk2 & Mk2a are very similar except for PJB fuse numbers!):
  2. Mk7 ford fiesta 1.6 tdci smoke

    Has it got a DPF? Could the smoke & raised FRP be connected to a regen? If the DPF is getting a bit full, or there is some fault in the system like perished hoses to the DP sensor, it could be doing the regen more often, and struggling a bit. The MAF idea above is a good, easy test. Though I can not see how the raised FRP & smoke stacks up. If you over-fuel a diesel, it will just rev up, as there is no throttle as such. (Though, now I think of it, the 1.6TDCI does have a throttle, it is used as part of the EGR system, and as an anti-judder valve at turn off.) If not that, maybe there is a problem with the frp sensor, or the pressure control valve on the fuel pump. High FRP at idle might make the injectors struggle to deliver the small fuel dose, and that could make it smoke.
  3. MK3 HELP PLEASE

    There are two critical points in a brake fluid flush: 1 - Try not to shear off the bleed nipples. They can be well corroded in if not used for some years. Use a good socket with a tee bar handle if possible to avoid putting side force on the nipple. Be prepared to take some time. Penetrating oil may help a little, once it starts moving, but is not a magic cure. Judging the right force, & combining a steady force with moderate impact can help. If really obstinate, getting the caliper off the car and into a vice at working height can help, with some heat for the caliper & freezing spray on the nipple. If the nipple is really jammed, or breaks, a replacement caliper is probably needed. 2 - Make sure the reservoir level does not drop too low. Air in the master cylinder is a pig, and air in the ABS may need a special procedure via the OBD socket to bleed it. A bleeding kit can help here. On the cooling system, there are usually two small vent hoses, one from the top of the radiator, one from the the engine, usually by the thermostat, back to the reservoir. When draining the system, remove these hoses (one end at least), check they are clear and empty of coolant. Replace them, then re-fill slowly in stages, allowing air to come back up the vent hoses at each stage. If coolant goes into these hoses from above, it might cause an airlock. If they are clear, the system should refill ok. Possibly apart from the line through the heater, and that should fill once the engine is running.
  4. Focus mk3 speedo miles change

    Forscan can increase mileage, like when fitting a new cluster, or a low mileage one. I think It is a legal requirement to do this! But reducing mileage is much harder. Winding it up to all 9s has been tried (on a spare cluster!), it just stuck there. Some companies claim they can sell you stuff or services to do it, but it is expensive, and I am not sure I trust them, it is all marginally legal (if at all). Of course it would be ideal for a crook who has lots of clusters to re-wind! Ian's suggestion of searching out a low mileage one would be cheaper. For interest only, see: http://www.obdtester.com/fcom-odometer-correction
  5. I have not seen the back of a Ka IC, but repairing a shorted out LED is a dead simple job (to an electronics repair shop or suitably equipped enthusiast!) on most clusters. Repair has to be cheaper than new & re-programming. A TV/Radio repair shop may be able to do it, and there are lots of places advertising this repair service, either locally, or via mail order.
  6. Turbo Whine

    I doubt if there is any monitoring on individual plugs for these cars. It would need the glowpugs to each be individually supplied from an electronic module that measures the current. As far as I know, there is just a relay that powers up all 4. Have you checked the glowplug fuse? And a DVM on the fuse terminals while turning on the ignition (cold) would check the relay. I think the next thing I would check would be the MAF. Sometimes simply disconnecting it improves the situation. No MAF is better than a bad one. It will make the EML come on, so you would want to have a code reader handy to check the code, and reset it after re-connecting. Then maybe a compression test. If compression is a bit low, a cylinder will not fire properly. And as the oil gets spread around, and the aluminium piston expands & combustion chamber heats up, it fires ok.
  7. Hard Brake Pedal & Airbag Light

    If your car has ABS (most have), then a special procedure is needed to bleed air from the ABS system. Changing master cylinder or servo will allow air into the ABS. It uses a computer connected to the diagnostic socket. Garages with Ford IDS can do it, but Forscan can also do it on most Fords. You can get Forscan for £16 or less, if you have access to a Windows laptop. For more info on Forscan, look around this site, or just ask here! (What engine is it, so I can try to check if Forscan implements ABS Bleed for that engine.)
  8. Things I Don't Like

    Dropping a special brass bolt down the plughole . After I had said to myself, as I started the job, do not drop anything down that totally inaccessible plughole! It was the bolt for the shower control tap, and the U bend was under the sealed in shower tray, on a solid floor, and the next access point was in the main drain manhole outside. Fortunately, I did try a magnet on a sibling bolt, and to my surprise, a strong neodymium iron magnet did just stick, so it was a stainless steel bolt, not plated brass as I thought. And first fish with the magnet on a suitable probe got it back out again But it still took me a while to recover from the mistake. I had been rather happy with finding that I could still get spares for the ancient Mira 722 control, despite it being in the house when I moved in in 1998, probably installed in the early '90s. £11 for a simple little plastic bush was daylight robbery really, but for the work in changing the shower unit, piped direct into a tiled wall, £11 was cheap. But it all went a bit pear shaped as I put it back together. The bolt dropped as I was putting the cover on, bounced, then hole in one. Straight down the plug. I know the feeling. This time of year, I have a heap of jobs to do on house & car, before Winter. But a load of work rolled in, just when not wanted. I am not a very happy bunny. But nor are my customers, as I am having to give them long delivery dates, well into November. And my prices are pretty well fixed, and limited by what the jobs are worth, plus costs have risen, so it is not like I can make loads of money. In fact, it means I now have to order batches of about 50 pcbs to be built, to make the next 10 or so units, so I will be laying out almost as much cash as I get in. It might be ages, or even never if my customers get too fed up, before I get that money back. Ah, the joys of self employment!
  9. mk2 clocks change.

    The adapter (ELM327) costs about £16, or less. The software is free download for Windows. One ELM supplier is: https://tunnelrat-electronics.fwscart.com/ The Forscan programme is free (in Windows format) and you can get it from: http://forscan.org/download.html But the procedure is not entirely simple. See: http://forscan.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=839
  10. Fuel Injectors Defective

    Definitely get a 2nd or 3rd opinion. There are quite a few possible causes of uneven running. Also ask how they diagnosed it. It may just be cylinder balance readings from a diagnostic system (which you can do for yourself using Forscan or some other good system), if so it is still not definite. Leak-off tests, or removal of injectors for a proper test are the best ways. But these are time consuming. I doubt if the garage did anything like that. Injector problems usually take some time to develop, and a little shuddering is unlikely to do any lasting damage, especially at low throttle openings, so do not be rushed into anything, unless you feel confident they know what they are talking about.
  11. power loss 1.6 tdci

    That does sound right. According to: http://forscan.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=880#p2866 With no vacuum on the actuator, the turbo is in max boost condition. Energising the solenoid puts vacuum on the actuator, and puts the turbo into minimum boost condition. Since at idle, or at low revs, there is no need for any boost, I would expect the ECU to energise the valve as you start the engine, then the actuator rod should move as the engine starts, and vacuum builds up. This assumes you have the vacuum operated turbo, some (later?) 1.6TDCIs have an electric actuator, I believe. Can anyone with a working 1.6TDCI verify this?
  12. Things I Don't Like

    Snap!
  13. Things I Don't Like

    Ouch, that sounds like a very frustrating 3 days! I always dread rounded & sheared bolts, it is my worst nightmare when working on cars. I would not have the tools to drill out in awkward spaces. And with my only car out of action, I would be a bit stuck! I thought I was having a hard enough time just servicing the brakes, and finding and treating the rust that is starting to attack parts of my 11 year old car, between the showers. The rear suspension, inside the rear wheel arches, and the passenger sill are being attacked. A bit disappointing. My Vauxhall did better than that! Though it made up for it mechanically, with lots of expensive faults, like cat & head gasket. Those plastic strips under the sills are a bit of a dodgy design. If they are intended as stone chip protectors, they make very good dirt and wet traps, the sill was rusting in a few places above the strip. And the plastic clips holding them on are a menace, when jammed with dirt. They seem completely pointless with the 4 or 5 torx bolts as well.
  14. Juddering when flooring

    From the vid it does look like an electrical problem of some sort. Especially with the battery / ignition light coming on & off like that. Bad earths, battery connections, intermittent alternator fault, through to electronic or CAN bus faults, it could be a lot of things. If it is not losing coolant, then the head is probably ok. I can not see that fault being a mechanical problem in the engine. But thinking a bit more, faulty coil pack is possible. Or even coil leads (if fitted). If it was arcing over inside, that could upset the electronics to make the lights come on. It would cause judder. It is most likely to happen at wider throttle openings as the higher cylinder pressure needs higher voltage to spark.
  15. It will not be that, that will be a vacuum pressure to control the turbo, not the actual boost pressure. Look for the MAP sensor. This will be piped or inserted into the inlet manifold somewhere. If it is piped to it, that is the place for the tee piece. If not, I think you can get adapters for one of the big hoses from the intercooler to the inlet manifold. Anywhere in that air duct will be the boost pressure. Some more info is here. The Viper adapter is a bit expensive but shows the idea, and Darren shows a pic, but no part reference.