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      Posting in General Chat thread.   11/11/2017

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Tdci-Peter

True Ford Enthusiast
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Tdci-Peter last won the day on January 15

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About Tdci-Peter

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  • First Name
    Peter

Profile Information

  • Gender*
    Male
  • Ford Model
    1.8 TDCI Mk2
  • Ford Year
    2006
  • UK/Ireland Location
    Dorset
  • Interests
    General Automotive
    Computers & Electronics

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  1. Flash Code 16 - No crank.

    Hmm, just tried it on a workbench in good light, it is a bit harder than I hoped! I had to push quite hard with pointnose pliers to get the joining wire in. Soldering it in went ok, though it might be easier to push the joining wire in while soldering, as the plastic insulation melts to allow the joining piece in. Then it was harder to push the joiner into the 2nd wire, I just stripped enough insulation to kind of wrap the loom wire round the joiner. Then when I soldered it 1st time, the joiner fell out altogether! But I tried it again (same wires), and got a tolerable joint in the end. In the end, whatever works, works! Idealy you want a bit more than just a rough butt joint of wire end to wire end. Any sort of overlap or additional wire support is a benefit. Pics are in reverse order. They always seem to do that on this site!
  2. Flash Code 16 - No crank.

    Without seeing the situation, it is hard to be certain as to what is best. But in most cases I would poke the solid joining wire into the ECU connector end (B) first, and solder that in. Ideally some solder will be drawn into the joint by capillary action. Then push the wire A (with 2-3mm of insulation stripped back) over the sticking out end of the joining wire, and solder that, trying to create a joint that remelts the first joint, fusing it all into one. If the copper of the wires looks corroded or dirty, clean with very fine sandpaper, or a fine file first. It can take a bit of time and effort to tin old wires. If needed, do it in stages, allowing the ECU connector to cool down between each stage.
  3. battery drain problem

    It can be very hard to separate battery problems from battery drain. As the temperature drops, the terminal voltage of any car battery will drop, and its internal resistance (ability to supply current) will get worse. This happens even with a brand new battery, the cranking current (CCA) is specified at a low temperature for that reason. But as a battery ages, or a fault develops in it, these effects will get much more noticeable. Add in the extra glowplug current (60A quite possibly), and more effort needed to turn over a cold engine, then a cold morning start really stresses the battery. Doing a voltage test on the battery before starting would separate the extra effort of a cold start, but would not separate drain from the effects of temperature on the battery. You would probably have to leave the battery disconnected overnight to do that, which is a nuisance as everything, including ECU adaptions, gets reset. Unless you could leave the car connected to a charger, with the battery disconnected. Then there would be no drain on the battery, just the temperature effect. A voltage test would be: Volts immediately after unlocking, nothing else switched on. This should be over 12v (ideally 12.4 to 12.6v, but the unlocking will knock it down a bit). Then ign & headlights on for about 15 sec, and re-measure the voltage. If below about 11.5v, it is probably a bad or discharged battery, but voltage tests will not separate the two. A good proprietary battery tester (expensive) might separate the two effects, but even that is not certain.
  4. Flash Code 16 - No crank.

    I think Ted (Micro) was making a general observation about ECUs and other car electronics, not directly related to your ECU problem. It follows on from my comment about ECUs being quite tough beasts. Car electronics is often regarded as weak and vulnerable, and all the precautions you hear so often repeated, reinforce that. As an electronics engineer, I know that automotive components and sub-systems are required to meet some pretty tough specifications, regarding over-voltage, reverse voltage, spikes, temperature, and general abuse. So it should all be very reliable, almost bomb proof ---- In theory! But as an electronics engineer and a realist, I know that many things can go wrong: There are fault scenarios that can exceed or get around the specifications. There will be stuff made that claims to meet the specifications, but due to cost cutting and non-existent quality control, does not. So the precautions like turning off the power before disconnecting or connecting stuff are wise, but not always essential! Ted is also an electronics engineer, if I recall correctly, and was saying a similar thing in other words. Is your ECU still behaving properly?
  5. 02 Focus 1.8 tdi EDU repair

    I was going to put a link to another topic on the subject, then saw it was the same OP . So it would not be much help!
  6. Flash Code 16 - No crank.

    Ooops, just goes to show ECUs are actually quite tough beasts, designed to withstand abuse! It certainly sounds like it was one of the wires or connections on the ECU connector, or just possibly on the ECU pcb near the connector. Time will tell if the cure is permanent, but if it does come back, you know where to start looking. It could have been the 12v constant supply.
  7. Flash Code 16 - No crank.

    I had that a couple of years ago, a weekend of struggle & trying, then the relief when it finally came back to life made me quite shaky and peculiar for a while! When you have recovered, let us know what you did, and what you think happened. New ECU or old?, Or maybe it was a bad connection at the ECU. (The F8 connection will only go live with R11 in and energised, and it either needs the ECU in to energise it, or a jumper wire.)
  8. Flash Code 16 - No crank.

    It has got to be done sometime. But not that urgent, there are still some tests that can best be done before installing an ECU. Like checking the earths, and finding the 3 main power feeds and relay coil ground lines. Also check for any unusual 12v on wires. I am a bit concerned about the blue 12v you did find, and check that it is valid, and not some nasty short circuit in the wiring somewhere. Dodgy wiring & parts have been known to blow up ECUs, though not usually totally dead like this one is behaving. With this circuit info, we can make a good guess as to whether a connection should have 12v on it. When rejoining a wire like that, I would poke a bit of tinned component lead (thin solid wire) down into the end of the broken wire, solder it in, then push the other end of the lead, with just a little bit of insulation stripped back, over the tinned lead, and solder that.. Then there is a positive connection between both halves. If this is done carefully, sealed up (eg with neutral cure silicone) and the wires given suitable strain relief, eg by ty-rapping to adjacent wires), then it should last the remaining life of the car. It might be an idea to try the technique on another old bit of wire first. The wiring diagram is a big A3 page, the PDF is a bit poor resolution, so I have done it as a .PNG (image) as well. The full wiring set is 132 pages like that!
  9. Flash Code 16 - No crank.

    Looks like its back to the ECU connector, to locate these two power feeds. Then if M8 is grounded, it should turn R11 on and ECU pin F8 should go live. I guess it is not easy decoding the connector pin numbering scheme without a drawing. ..... But I have just made a discovery. The Focus wiring diagram for the 1.4/1.6 Sigma has the identical pin numbering for all the points you have mentioned, I bet it has the same type of connector, and a very similar ECU. The wire colours are not the same, but the functions are the same. Re: getting bored: No, it is at times very frustrating but an interesting problem to try to solve. The Full ECU connector faceview is a bit unclear, as the lines extend across the writing for some reason (like this on the original), so I have done it in two higher res. halves also. See if it looks anything like yours. ECU-DRG is the wiring diagram page for the ECU, it shows the 4 earths and the 3 power connections the Ford Tech mentioned, also the M8 relay coil ground. I expect many other connections will be the same, but there will be detail differences. And ignore the colour codes, they are different for the Focus. ECU-DRG.pdf
  10. Flash Code 16 - No crank.

    Yes. Whether the fuel pump circuit is used to provide an "ignition on" power feed to the PCM, and if so, on what pin. Or if not the fuel pump circuit, is there an "ignition on" feed from anywhere else. That is the missing part for me. Also where that R11 coil ground pin (4) actually goes. (The PCM needs to know when the ignition is turned on, and with both feeds located so far being always on, that is missing.)
  11. Flash Code 16 - No crank.

    Look for PCM or engine control, or similar. And for you engine variant under that heading. I think your engine may be a Sigma type, if that appears. Ian knows a lot more about Etis than me, I find it a scary place! Though when I last looked, there is a 50 euro minimum fee to access wiring diagrams. It may be different where you are, though.
  12. Flash Code 16 - No crank.

    Extracting useful diagrams from Etis is not easy! The diagrams are in many small sections, though all the PCM related stuff should be in one section. Some of them are pdfs, but many are only viewable,though they can be printed. If you have a print-to-pdf facility on the computer, this might work ok. The trouble with pin 4 is it needs to be checked with the relay in, or some substitute resistance. If the relay is not energising, and is functional, then it can not be getting 12v across its coil. One end of the coil is measuring 12v an the socket, the other measuring 0v at the socket, so one of these voltages must change when the relay is connected to them. Yes I guess 90ohms is ok, that is 1.6W at 12v, which I suppose is not excessive for a cheap (ie Ford) automotive power relay! I am more used to higher spec, lower power relays these days. I would test for continuity (low resistance, <1ohm) between the relay socket pin2 and either end of F12 socket (F12 removed). Then the other end of F12 should go to ECU pin M8.
  13. Flash Code 16 - No crank.

    Was the Pin 2 = 0v reading with R11 removed? I assume so since it is hard to take the reading with R11 in place. And is pin 4 = 0v too? Pin 2 should only have 12v on it with the relay in and energised, as the power is coming from Pin 1 (the other contact pin?), and going out on pin 2 to the ECU. Just to check, when testing the relay, are pins 3 & 4 the coil?: Stable resistance in the range 300 ohms to 2k ohms I would expect. I think the power comes from the Battery bus in the fuse box, to Pin 1 of R1, out on Pin 2 of R11 (if in & energised), through Fuse F12, and then on to the ECU at M8. I still suspect Pin 4 is driven by the ECU, so may go to a pin on the ECU connector. So the key question then becomes: Is the wire from R11 Pin 2 to ECU M8 broken? Or is R11 not being energised, hence not supplying any power. If, as I suggested above, F15 is between R11 pin 2 and the ECU, that could be used as a test point to see if R11 is energising. Also listening close to R11 for any clicks when turning ignition on & off would help. (It is just possible that F15 is involved as well, the 2008 Fiesta ECU takes its ignition power from the same line as the fuel pump. But I think best to ignore that one for now, finding one missing supply is enough to be getting on with! Though it might just be worth checking the fuse F15 (you probably already have), and see if the car has an inertia fuel cut-off switch, check it has not been activated.) Ughh, I wish I had a decent circuit diagram to work from. My guesses may be based on experience & knowledge, but they are still guesses!
  14. Horrible vibration!!

    It is not really my field, Stef or Ian would probably know a lot more then me. But I think the DMF would clank or rattle if it was bad, with the noise being more audible near the passenger side wheel arch. If it has always done it since you have had it, maybe someone has replaced the DMF with a solid flywheel. These can give more vibration, that is what the DMF is for. The belt timing will affect all cylinders equally, and I would have thought it would affect power more than induce vibration. And fuel economy would suffer. You should get about 50MPG unless you are doing a lot of urban stop-start journeys. I would look at cylinder balance with a diagnostic tool. Maybe one injector is bit out of calibration. Though when I looked at cylinder balance on my 1.8 using Forscan, it gave identical readings on all 4, that did not change, so it looked like the reading was not working properly. Though that was some time ago, and I have not re-tested it. Does it pull smoothly when rolling along at idle RPM, not touching the throttle, in 1st, 2nd & 3rd gears? Mine is quite happy to do that even with a heavy load and undulating track in 1st & 2nd, and ok on a flat road in 3rd. That is quite a test for injector balance, any cylinder imbalance should be evident by rough running or uneven firing note.
  15. Horrible vibration!!

    Post deleted due to incorrect Quote