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Marko10

Budding Enthusiast
  • Content count

    21
  • Joined

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About Marko10

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    Member

Profile Information

  • Gender* Male
  • Ford Model streetka
  • UK/Ireland Location Norfolk
  1. Car Tax!!

    Note to self - read post correctly before replying...
  2. Streetka

    Yes, they are the same blade type as the others. There should be fuses near the relays also - check number 33 as mentioned previously. Its impossible to say whether you need to replace the relay Nick. Go through the usual checks ie check power either side of fuse and down at the switch on front of seat. If power from fuse but not down at switch, it could indicate a knackered relay, but could also be a continuity problem in the line. I can't check the wife's car to see which relay is for seats at the moment as she's out in it. Keep us updated with what you find and I'll take a look if necessary. Best of luck Mark
  3. Streetka

    No problem. Glad to be of help. Mark
  4. Streetka

    Hi There, Re the fuse for heated seats. Should be in central junction box - Fuse 33 (10A). You may find that this is one of the fuses that cannot be seen by just taking off the box cover. Two screws (i think) to drop the box down to reveal the hidden ones at the top. Re the soft top - my wife has used Renovo cleaner and proofer and says that it is very good. Best of luck Mark
  5. Front Discs Replacement On 2005 Ka

    You don't need to undo the hub nut. The discs are only held on with a spring clip and the wheel nuts/studs. They will just need a bit of persuasion with a rubber mallet or similar to let go. Warning light could be just a corroded/dirty connection.
  6. Ford Ka Fuel Pump Not Coming On

    It's not going to be a battery problem if the engine is turning. There is an inertia fuel cut off switch behind the carpet in front of the R/H door. It sounds like this is what you're looking for. If the button is raised the switch has been activated. Reset by pushing in.
  7. The usual Ford stuff really - water leaks (into vehicle), alarm misfires, intermittent engine misfires, heater problems and rust under vehicle. All mostly easy to overcome if you are fairly mechanically minded.....
  8. Alarm With Roof Down

    Yep, Nick's right. It states this in the handbook somewhere. And yes, there are two microswitches on the hood flap. Just make sure you close it solidly to ensure both switches are made. Mark
  9. Fuel Volume Regulator Control

    If its running fine, rather than dive in, why not just try resetting the ECU? Remove battery for an hour or so then take it out on a drive 'cycle'. Unless your code reader can clear the fault?
  10. Spark Plugs

    Totally correct. The fact that Motorcraft plugs are stamped NGK also gives a clue.....
  11. Intermittent Misfiring, Spluttering

    Well I certainly hope they have fixed it, though I have this worrying feeling.....
  12. Intermittent Misfiring, Spluttering

    My wife's has a similar problem - its on another thread somewhere. Never shows any fault codes and only happens every two or three months. It last happened when i was driving the other day. As the others say, I think it is pointing to the upstream oxygen sensor. Keep us posted on outcome.
  13. StreetKa Air Con

    Might be £80 or so at some fast fit places. However, Halfords do a kit for about £40. It includes a connector and pressure gauge. After that you can get refills for about £20. As for the TIS - it is Fords Tecnical Information System. I have a spare cd that you can have if you pm me. I got one off Ebay that I couldn't get to load at first so the guy sent me another. However, it turned out to be a problem on my pc so I have two now. I think I only paid a few quid for it. Cheers mark
  14. StreetKa Air Con

    Hi m8, sorry for not replying sooner - I don't look at this site very often. Anyway, the test sequence is fairly straightforward. It is on the Ford TIS (which is available on cd very cheaply on ebay I hear ;-)) My wife's streetka is a fairly late one and incorporates a switch into the side of the compressor itself (not all of them have this). It is pressed in and I suspect cannot be changed. Anyway, after following the test sequence through, I identified this as the problem by bridging it (it was the last check in the sequence, everything was okay until then). Once I had done that it fired into life. The answer is a new compressor really but it works okay as it is. When you say your wifes aircon is rubbish, do you mean it is working but not very cold? If so, I doubt that you have the same problem as me - more likely needs re-gassing. Anyway have a look at service manuals on cd on ebay. Hope this helps Mark
  15. Help Required

    Hi Lottie, Yep, it could be that (and it is important). I have an OBDii diagnostic but no fault code showed up to indicate this. It is possible that the HEGO got contaminated at some point and then subsequently 'cleaned' itself. Ours never cut out completely, but as I say, the car is running fine at the moment so I will wait to see what happens. Hope you get yours sorted soon. Cheers Mark