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About Saltire1964

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  • Ford Model
    Escort Van
  1. Try checking the fuel pipe from the tank to filter for restrictions, you should be able to draw fuel through with litte or no effort.
  2. I have a replacement injector pump for my 1996 1.8D van, replacing it due to lack of pressure at the injectors. Does anyone know if I can just change the module & solenoid on the pumps rather than messing about changing immobiliser modules? The replacement is off an identical van of similar age.
  3. Draining the radiator will not necessarily empty the whole system, there's probably water still lying in the block or the heater matrix.
  4. I would suggest re-checking & cleaning the contacts, especially any earthing points. A bad earth will give all different types of symptoms.
  5. Is the immobiliser not paired with the fuel pump on the diesel engines? Worth checking with someone that knows more than me, before you spend any money.
  6. Depends how much you can do yourself, if you don't need to pay someone else then, at a rough guess, £200 - £250 to fix what you've listed. If you like the car then it's worth it compared to replacing it with another £400 car. I would put it in for test 30 days before it expires & see how big the list is before deciding.
  7. The circlip sits tight in behind the winder, which is why its difficult to see. I've always used a hook made from an old bicycle wheel-spoke to pop them off.
  8. Glad to hear it's cured, probably worth replacing the other side too. cheaper to replace another flexi now than a flexi & caliper in 6 months.
  9. Was the caliper changed because it was binding on? I replaced both my front calipers then discovered the front flexi pipes had collapsed internally. loosen the join between the metal & flexi pipes and see if the fluid is reaching that point.
  10. Courtesy of Mr Haynes - main beam is white/yellow (R6) engine management supply is green/red/yellow (R8) on the Deisel. Not sure if these will match up with the petrol version. You should also have a secondary set of fuses near the battery which supply the power to the internal fuse box, worth checking those once the relays are back in their original positions.
  11. Was the replacement master cyclinder new, re-con or 2nd hand? It wouldn't be the first time that a replacement part was as bad as the faulty original. If there are no leaks, no flexi pipes ballooning under pressure & no air in the system then I would look at the master again.
  12. The valve above the rear axle is a load sensor, if it is seized you may have no fluid going to the rear wheels. This would make it impossible to bleed the brakes properly as the valve is not allowing the air to pass through. Give the whole thing a good soak in releasing fluid then work the lever up & down until it feels free then try bleeding the brakes again.
  13. The supply pump is integrated with the injector pump & is driven by a belt.
  14. Does you fuel line run directly into the pump? The pics look like someone has bypassed the fuel heater & filter. The filter body has a non-return valve so if it's been bypassed the fuel may be running back to the tank overnight, making it difficult to start.
  15. Both my vans have ford alloys but not sure what they're originally off. I've had to fit 5mm spacers on both rear sets, as they were scuffing the inner arch on bumpy roads when loaded.