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About mjt

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    Too much time on the boards

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  • First Name Mike

Profile Information

  • Gender* Male
  • Ford Model Mk3 Tit Estate 1.0 SCTi Ecoboost 125ps
  • Ford Year 2012
  • UK/Ireland Location Cambridgeshire
  • Annual Mileage 0 to 5000

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  1. Ford Smell

    That comment is unworthy of you Clive - you know perfectly well that Fords of a similar vintage rusted just as effectively.
  2. Cruise Control

    This is for people who don't have the skill, or are just too lazy, to use the handbrake.
  3. seat covers or waterproofing

    Hi Luis, Our 1.0L Ecoboost was stuck on a low average mpg reading (mid 30's) and didn't seem to move. Eventually I decided to reset it before embarking on a decent run and since then it's been updating itself regularly. It's now hovering between 44.2 and 44.4 depending on road conditions. I haven't done a brim-to-brim test to find out how accurate it is but I do find it's useful to know how different road conditions - and my driving style - affects it. Because it's continually averaging the figure, comparing the current instantaneous reading with the running total, it can take quite a while to settle if it's been brought low by, for example, a lot of town driving. Doing a reset will let it start afresh and get to a realistic average more quickly.
  4. Unless your motoring is going to be predominantly long-ish A- and/or M-way I would avoid a diesel. Diesels take quite a bit longer to reach operating temperature so for short journeys they're inefficient and you won't realise the benefit of better mpg. Coupled with that there are the problems associated with diesel particulate filters that won't regenerate unless you can drive at cruising speed for at least 20 minutes after the engine has reached normal temperature. If your journeys are mostly town and school run as you've stated my advice would be to opt for a petrol.
  5. Bear in mind that plug gaps have an effect on coil packs. There have been a number of threads on here in which it has been stated that the specified 1.3mm gap generates voltages high enough to cause the coil packs to break down. I think this was referring to the 1.6 engines with wasted-spark systems. I don't know whether it also applies to the 1.8 which has individual coils mounted directly on the plugs. I believe Ford might have issued a service bulletin about it. If you are replacing the plugs make sure they are correctly gapped and don't rely on them being right out of the box.
  6. alternator? battery? or both?

    I'd beg to differ about that. A fully-charged lead-acid cell has a voltage of about 2.2V depending on temperature so multiplying that by 6 cells gives 13.2V. To trickle-charge a fully-charged battery would therefore need in excess of 13.2V, maybe 13.4V. Even on cars that do not have Smart Charge and use standard, rather than Calcium, lead-acid batteries it would be normal to see the alternator voltage go over 14V immediately after starting then slowly drop back to just over 13.2V.
  7. Coolant Leaking Into Drivers Footwell

    I might be wrong but I think the two black rubber pipes to the left of those metal ones are the coolant feed to the heater matrix. I think Naz is right and they are pipes to the A/C evaporator matrix.
  8. I paid £85 for front and rear as both needed adjustment apparently. I think it's improved it but I'm still not sure it hasn't got a small bias to the right. Trouble is it seems very sensitive to road camber and crosswinds, much more so than our Mk2.5. The steering wheel is also not quite perfectly lined up since the adjustment. Hardly noticeable but I'm a bit OCD with things like that It had an odd tyre on the N/S front which was obviously a lot newer than the one on the other side which had some wear on the outside edge suggesting it had been running with a lot of toe-in. To make sure that wasn't skewing the result of the alignment I swapped those two onto the back wheels and carefully checked all the pressures. It's difficult to say if that made any noticeable difference but I thought I ought to try it first if I was going to take it back. I haven't decided whether to yet. Maybe after this weekend I'll have a better idea as I'll be doing 80-odd miles each way on mostly dual carriageway.
  9. I've just measured the depth of the well on my Mk3. It's 160mm without the thin (~5mm) felt under the spare so the 215/55 R 16 wheel won't fit. I assumed the polystyrene ring made up the difference between the T125/80 space saver and the 215/55 standard wheel but obviously not. The poly ring is, indeed, 15mm thick.
  10. Cabin noise ridiculously loud

    The latter two items have more to do with controlling the sound level outside the car though they'll probably make a marginal difference inside. The bonnet liner might cut down the drumming being transmitted through the body a bit. The Mk2.5 is definitely pretty bad for both road and wind noise. Michelin Primacys are original-fitted to mine and seem pretty noisy on all except the smoothest surfaces. Wind noise is much greater than on my old Mk1.5 and on my Mk3.0. I don't think sound deadening kits will have much effect on wind noise.
  11. My Mk3 estate has the space saver. It has a polystyrene moulded ring that sits on top to bring the level up and stop the boot floor panel from sagging. If you're going for a spare wheel why not get a full-size one? You won't be speed-limited if you need to fit it then.
  12. Have you missed a zero off or do you do a really low mileage?
  13. Petrol or Diesel ST?

    That should be cleanER 1.6! There's no such thing as a clean engine, petrol or diesel. Basically Vlad's just re-iterated the point I made in my original post regarding the emission control systems on diesels. I reckon that by the time a diesel has been made even as clean as a petrol, in terms of particulates and NOX, it's mpg will hardly be any better and the additional first cost and maintenance costs will probably cancel out any financial advantage. By the way, Vlad, NA = Normally Aspirated.
  14. Petrol or Diesel ST?

    Really threw his toys out of the pram didn't he?
  15. Changing rear brake pads on Focus

    Hi Gordon, if you're referring to the risk of flipping the seals I'd say Haynes have got it wrong. As regards clamping the hose if you use a proper clamp and it's only in place for a short time there is no risk of hose damage. Garages use these all the time when, for example, changing calipers or wheel cylinders.