mjt

True Ford Enthusiast
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About mjt

  • Rank
    Too much time on the boards

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  • First Name
    Mike

Profile Information

  • Gender*
    Male
  • Ford Model
    Mk3 Tit Estate 1.0 SCTi Ecoboost 125ps
  • Ford Year
    2012
  • UK/Ireland Location
    Cambridgeshire
  • Annual Mileage
    0 to 5000

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  1. If they're factory installed the ECU will obviously be programmed to take account of the different characteristics. Although this is still off topic I think some clarification is in order: The bulb failure detection works by monitoring current, not resistance. Since LED's are up to 8 times more efficient than incandescent bulbs the current they take, for an equivalent light output, may be as little as 1/8th of the filament lamp. That's why the ECU incorrectly detects a failure. Using Ohms law it's easy to see that this equates to a higher resistance. In fact the LEDs need a series resistor or some form of built-in regulation to limit the current as their forward voltage is typically 2V-3V and they would be destroyed by connecting the junction directly to 12V. To overcome this problem the CANbus-friendly bulbs have to be fitted with a low-value parallel resistor to increase the current drawn. This effectively negates the efficiency gains of the LED so the only benefits are the higher colour temperature and potentially longer life, athough as has been pointed out in other threads the heat generated by this resistor can drastically shorten the life of the LED.
  2. Was this meant for another post? This post doesn't mention LED? In any case what he said is wrong.
  3. On both the cars we've owned with full electronic climate control the demist button puts both screens on, the blower to maximum and turns on the aircon so evidently the system is designed to cope with this load, at least for a short time. As mentioned the front screen turns itself off quite quickly. I think you misinterpreted what Arthur said - he meant with both screens on the total would be around 100 Amps, i.e. 25 for the rear.
  4. You're very welcome. Glad to be of help.
  5. I can tell you what the Haynes says - I don't have any experience with working on the vacuum pump. According to Haynes you should use a spanner on the crankshaft pulley bolt to turn the crankshaft until the pushrod is fully retracted into the cylinder head. The pushrod is operated by an eccentric on the end of the camshaft. You should have done this before removing the pump but I would guess that if you do it before refitting it should be ok.
  6. When the mpg on our old 2003 1.8TDCi suddenly took a dive it turned out to be a sticking brake caliper. Try feeling the wheel hubs after a decent run to see if one or more is getting unusually hot.
  7. In view of this I think you're making a mistake buying a diesel. That mix of driving is not really suited to one. You won't get the mpg that is acheivable from long extra-urban journeys and aside from the DPF regeneration issues diesels are likely to be penalised in future by higher charges for driving in urban areas due to high NOX levels. When I changed our Mk1.5 1.8TDCi I opted to return to petrol because I could see the way things are going. Of course that's just my personal opinion, others will disagree.
  8. Just tonight on the news I saw a Merc creating a big bow wave, about two-thirds of the way up the radiator. I thought "you're pushing your luck".
  9. The reason is that's an American site and doesn't recognise European VINs.
  10. From what I've seen on the TV people drive through floods far too fast. Many years ago I occasionally had to drive my Mini through flood water on the way to and from work. I always took it very slowly, no more than walking pace, slipping the clutch if necessary to keep the revs up and prevent water from entering the exhaust, to avoid creating a lot of wash. I never had a problem with wet electrics (and bear in mind that water getting into the distributor cap and onto the HT leads was a weak point with early Minis).
  11. I'd have thought there's a possibility that the excessive heat could affect the bonding between the linings and shoes and could also warp the drums.
  12. Anyone thinking about buying a diesel might want to have a read of this. Could knock the premium price for six.
  13. Personally I wouldn't cut off or modify the existing connector if you can avoid it. If you ever have the screen replaced that will cause problems for the installer. It's your call, though. Possibly the original end of the ribbon is made thicker to go into the connector so maybe you don't have any choice. I'd steer clear of Scotch blocks, though, because of the current. If you really must cut and extend either use a chunky choc-bloc or, preferably solder and heatshrink sleeving.
  14. It looks like it should be possible to remove the broken piece from the connector, carefully strip the insulation from the ribbon and re-insert it. Try to just peel the insulation off. It's vital not to nick or scratch the copper as that will cause a stress point and lead to another fracture. The problem you're going to have is that the repair will leave the connection shorter so it's likely to fail again unless you can pull a bit of cable through the clip. Bear in mind the windscreen takes a very high current so the connection needs to be good enough to handle it.
  15. Best advice would be to get them from your friendly Ford dealer . They'll be able to identify them on their parts catalogue. I wouldn't just buy bolts from a shop as you need to be sure they're the right grade of material. It's not worth risking it for something as safety-critical as brakes.