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      Posting in General Chat thread.   11/11/2017

      it has been noted that too many Members are posting messages in the General Chat area instead of the correct Forums. Any messages posted in the General Chat area that are not General Chat will be deleted without warning and offenders may recieve warning points if repeated instances are seen from that Member. There are plenty of different Club areas that encompass 99% of Ford related posts, please select and use the correct one. If anyone is not sure of which area to post something then feel free to P/M myself or other Senior Staff for guidance. The Moderating Staff are having to spend far too much time chasing this problem instead of maintaining the other areas of the forum.


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About mjt

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    Ford Enthusiast

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  • Ford Model
    Mk3 Tit Estate 1.0 SCTi Ecoboost 125ps
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  1. Keyless entry retrofit?

    He's already got keyless start. He wants to know about keyless entry.
  2. The most likely cause is the failure of the door open switch. On the Mk2/2.5 these are integrated into the latch mechanism which means a huge hassle to replace/repair (I don't regard this as progress although it's probably done for cost reasons). It's also possible it's a wiring fault. I presume it's your drivers door that's affected as this is the most used. The car is programmed to unlock unless it detects all doors closed.
  3. DASHCam

    Well, that's just the way ordinary PC storage works and why hard drives need defragging but I expected the dashcam would be simpler.
  4. DASHCam

    Hi Darren, I realise I'm resurrecting an old thread but, noticing your quote above, it occurred to me that in most cases the writing would be sequential. The manual for my cam recommends reformatting the card every few weeks. Once this is done the entire card will be marked as free so one would expect that the cam will begin writing at the lowest address and then sequentially until the card is full. It then starts overwriting the oldest files but since the new ones are the same length surely they will be replaced in sequential order.
  5. 1.6 Ti-VCT or 1.8 Duratec HE Engine - choose ?

    Same with our Rover 200 and 25. When they got to around 50K I figured it was time to get rid.
  6. 1.6 Ti-VCT or 1.8 Duratec HE Engine - choose ?

    Yes, a very fragile engine. Prone to blowing head gaskets and warping cylinder heads.
  7. Goodbye, and thanks for all the fish...

    We've had one or two French cars over the years and I'd never buy another. Had you considered a Kuga or C-Max? They're both taller than the Focus.
  8. 1.6 Ti-VCT or 1.8 Duratec HE Engine - choose ?

    At the moment ours doesn't use any noticeable amount of oil between services, that's around 7,000 miles per year and it's currently done just over 40K.
  9. 1.6 Ti-VCT or 1.8 Duratec HE Engine - choose ?

    I've read on this forum that the variable cam timing units of the Ti-VCT can start to give problems at around 50K miles. I don't know if that's been resolved on the year you're looking at. I decided to go for the 1.8HE on the basis that the larger engine should have more torque. I was pleased to discover it has chain-driven camshafts. It's quite low geared, sounds quite buzzy (the Mk2/2.5 is a noisy car anyway, though, lots of wind and road noise) and feels as though it could pull a sixth gear but it can accelerate cleanly away in top gear from 30mph so I'm not constantly having to stir the box. I find the performance perfectly adequate, I would certainly not call it sluggish.
  10. 1.8 tdci cold starts

    Interesting you should say that. On our old Mk1.5 1.8TDCi the light went out after a second but when I checked the voltage on the plugs it stayed on for 5 seconds. I imagine the ECU controls it so maybe yours might be getting a false engine temperature reading from somewhere. You don't say what mileage your Mk1 has done but on ours, at over 100K, three of the four plugs were shot. Having said that, after I'd replaced them I didn't notice any significant improvement in winter starting.
  11. Disable automatic air con and recycle air?

    Well, as you said, the heater will be on full so it won't throw out cold air once the engine has warmed up but the aircon will be cooling because it's that which condenses the moisture out and dries the incoming air. The single-button demist function is a boon. I had it on our old Mk1.5 Ghia and have it on our current Mk3 and it still astonishes me how quickly it clears the screen.
  12. Auto locking doors

    I enabled it on my car, doesn't seem to do anything on my 2010 Focus. Read it uses the ABS module to hold the brakes on however may need some more parts to work. It's only for people who've never learned to drive properly.
  13. Focus Mk3 (2011) Dipped Beam Issue

    Cross checking the wiring diagrams downloaded from here with those in the Haynes manual there doesn't appear to be a fuse (or relay) for the dipped beams. The wiring goes straight into the Body Control Module circuit board. That seems very odd to me but I can only assume there must be some form of protection built into the PCB.
  14. Interior light issue (Doesn't go off)

    In the passenger footwell behind the glovebox. It's part of the passenger fuseboard.
  15. Whistle Whistle!

    Which engine do you have? I can't really help with specifics as our Mk2.5 probably has a different engine but I meant a leak in the inlet tract between throttle body and manifold, including any vacuum pipes that connect in that area, might make a noise under high vacuum. It's just a wild guess though, it might be something completely different.