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mjt

True Ford Enthusiast
  • Content count

    774
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About mjt

  • Rank
    Too much time on the boards

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  • First Name
    Mike

Profile Information

  • Gender*
    Male
  • Ford Model
    Mk3 Tit Estate 1.0 SCTi Ecoboost 125ps
  • Ford Year
    2012
  • UK/Ireland Location
    Cambridgeshire
  • Annual Mileage
    0 to 5000

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  1. I'm sure it uses this latter method. If the injectors have been calibrated to the vehicle it will know to a reasonable degree of accuracy the rate of fuel flow through each injector, so using the timings it can get a good estimate of the fuel delivered. It probably also factors in the fuel temperature since that affects its density. As I posted in another thread I recently carried out a brim-to-brim test on my 1.0 Ecoboost over 300-odd miles and got a result of 44.98 mpg. The ECU is currently reporting 44.8 mpg so it looks as if the technology can be surprisingly accurate.
  2. Hmmm. . . . . I suspected as much. I'm not impressed with that. I suppose the idea is they produce such a wide spray pattern that it's not necessary but mine definitely only wet the screen half-way up and the wipers kick in too quickly for the airflow to take the water up the screen.
  3. The mist jets on my Mk3 are pointing a bit low. I can only see a slot in the plastic, is there a jet concealed inside that I can adjust? I don't want to go poking about with a needle unless I can be sure there is.
  4. Agreed. Not everyone wants a stealth vehicle.
  5. Good for you Tom!
  6. Mine on the 1.0 Ecoboost with 20K miles on it has only worked sporadically since I bought it in January. No rhyme or reason, even after an 80-mile dual-carriageway cruise in the latest hot weather it hasn't worked even without the A/C on. I'm really not bothered though, at least it's saving wear and tear on the battery and starter.
  7. I might be completely wrong (wouldn't be the first time) but I was under the impression that the codes were hard-wired into the chips and the pairing was done by setting up the ECU to recognise a new code.
  8. From your photos your old PCB looks undamaged. Can't you transfer that into the new fob?
  9. Like wot I said . . . .
  10. You can easily check if the chip is present in the old fob, knackered or not. Just hold it close to the ignition key barrel whilst trying to start the engine.
  11. Ian & Darren, just have to point out the Quashqai's a Nissan.
  12. Thanks for the clarification Dez. The only chip I've ever seen was in a Rover fob and that was as I described. I just assumed the Ford one would be the same.
  13. I can't remember what the inside of that old-style fob looks like. Hopefully one of the experts will be along soon with advice. The chip is usually just pressed into the fob so no soldering is necessary. You should only need to carefully prise it out with a small screwdriver and press it into the new fob. This is completely separate from the circuit board, which is just for the central locking. As you've already paired the new one you don't need to swap it over. The chip is a small black plastic item like an integrated circuit chip without legs and probably with some printing on it and if I remember correctly one corner chamfered. It'll be fitted onto the back of the old fob under the PCB and if you can't remove it you might need to transfer the old back to the new fob.
  14. There's a passive chip in the fob that is interrogated by a sensor coil around the lock barrel to unlock the immobiliser. You need to transfer the chip to the new fob.
  15. Could the camshaft intake be a measure of the camshaft timing? If so then the huge discrepancy in that value could well explain why it's so unstable at low rpm. That could indicate a problem with the variable valve timing system. It might also be giving rise to the other anomalous values as the ECU tries to stabilise the idle.