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mjt

True Ford Enthusiast
  • Content count

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About mjt

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  • First Name
    Mike

Profile Information

  • Gender*
    Male
  • Ford Model
    Mk3 Tit Estate 1.0 SCTi Ecoboost 125ps
  • Ford Year
    2012
  • UK/Ireland Location
    Cambridgeshire
  • Annual Mileage
    0 to 5000

Recent Profile Visitors

6,954 profile views
  1. That's the one I'm referring to. Note I said engine noise reflected off the road.
  2. They also have the function of reducing the amount of engine noise reflected off the road. That's why they are lined with foam.
  3. Yeah, they've started charging for this service so I've deleted all my albums and cancelled my account with them. Anyway, don't need them on this forum since it accepts image files.
  4. That sounds to me more like a Heated Oxygen Sensor (H-O2-S), i.e. Lambda sensor in the exhaust. That's just a guess though.
  5. I think the relays may be on the underside. The bad news is they aren't plug-in types, they're soldered onto the fuseboard. On the Mk1/1.5 Focus they were plug-in and as they were identical they could be tested by swapping them. On the later models Ford, in their infinite wisdom - NOT - have them soldered in so not only can you not test by swapping but to replace one faulty one effectively means buying a new fuseboard although personally, as a retired electronics engineer, I'd have a damn good go at replacing one if I could get the correct part. Incidentally the wiring diagram and relay identification in the Haynes manual for our Mk2.5 appear to conflict (no surprise there).
  6. I trust you really mean that it will help someone with this issue one day . . . . .
  7. As you can see, Wilco is registered as 'Other/NonUK' so that must be an option.
  8. There is a school of thought that doing this compensates for the reduction in suphur in modern diesel. I don't think anyone has done any definitive studies on it though. If you want to try it you should use a good low-ash two-stroke oil at a ratio of about 1 part in 200.
  9. Stop being such a wussy and learn how to do hill starts with the handbrake like proper drivers do.
  10. Actually it's the current that needs to be controlled. LED's are diodes and their curve of forward voltage vs current is almost constant for a wide current range. This is most simply done by adding a resistor in series, then the current can be varied either by varying the value of the resistor, as I think you mentioned earlier, or by keeping the resistor constant and varying the voltage. Is this what you meant?
  11. I thought I'd made that clear in my earlier post. You will find that datasheets for LEDs, amongst other devices, specify that they can be driven at higher power for short periods. Pulse-driving them allows them to produce a higher luminance and providing the frequency is high enough the eye will just see this as a bright continuous light. Also, as I pointed out and Larry has reiterated, their apparent brightness can then be varied by adjusting the on-off ratio of the pulse train. This is a much more efficient way of controlling them as the transistors driving them are always switched fully on or fully off, minimising their power dissipation and allowing smaller transistors to be used.
  12. I take it this is a case of your phone choosing the wrong auto-complete word ?
  13. I think it's rather more complex than that. I have to admit that I don't know the technology so this is just supposition but I think the DRLs are pulsed at high frequency. The reason I think this is that when watching Top Gear I've noticed that the DRLs strobe with the cameras. If they are pulsed I would guess that the dimming is done by changing the pulse width. Another reason I think they're pulsed is that doing so would allow them to be driven at higher power and hence higher intensity. If you look at LED datasheets you can see they are usually specified to be driven at higher power for a short period.
  14. I had an incidence of a sudden drop in mpg on our old Mk1.5 1.8TDCi. It turned out to be a sticking front brake caliper piston. It was not noticeable on the steering or braking but was causing enough drag to seriously hit the mpg. Yours is probably not that but worth checking.