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About mjt

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    Too much time on the boards
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    Mk3 Tit Estate 1.0 SCTi Ecoboost 125ps
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    0 to 5000

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  1. Hi Rick, the manual for mine also has the same statement. That is obviously the answer as I had inadvertently carried out exactly that procedure. Many thanks, it just goes to show - RTFM!
  2. Hi Wilco, that's interesting and worth knowing. However I think I tried to unlock the tailgate first, as I was intending to load up, and only then tried to unlock the doors. If it happens again I'll definitely try the tailgate trick and see if I can get a software update at the next service. Thanks. Edit: In my other thread (What charger?) Rick (Yog) has just suggested a reason for what happened. His explanation exactly fits the sequence of events so is virtually certain to be correct.
  3. My understanding is that the 'recondition' is an extra step, involving raising the charging voltage to produce gassing, that is only used if you select "RECOND" as the mode. I selected basic Normal Battery mode so it wouldn't have included that step.
  4. The remote wouldn't unlock the doors whilst the charger was still on. I didn't try locking until after I'd taken the charger off.
  5. I get a lot of wind and road noise on ours, much more than our old Mk1.5 or new Mk3. It may be partly down to less sound insulation but anyway it's impossible to listen to the radio or hold a conversation. Tyres may play a part too but the wind noise is the most intrusive.
  6. The saga started when the Mk3 failed to respond to either remote as described in my last post in the thread about the CTEK battery charger. The alarm went off when I used the key blade to enter the car and it couldn't be cancelled with the remote so I just had to let it run it's course. The siren stopped after a minute or so although the hazards carried on flashing for longer. It all went quiet eventually and I left the battery on charge for the day. After 11 hours I tried the remote but it still wouldn't work so I had to use the key blade to gain entry again and the alarm went off again. However the battery was ok as the car started straight away (keyless start). I took the charger off, closed the bonnet and door and tried the remote again to lock up and this time it worked and has been working fine ever since. I have no real idea why it behaved like this other than maybe it somehow got out of sync. If any of you knowledgeable guys have any thoughts about it I'd be interested to have them.
  7. Just an interesting addendum to this topic : When I went out to the Mk3 the other day it wouldn't respond to the remote. It had been standing unused for about 4 weeks so I assumed it was the car battery (I tried both remotes so ruled out the remote battery). I got in using the key blade, at which point the alarm went off but that's a subject for another thread. Anyway I connected the CTEK and left it for about 11 hours by which time it had got through all its steps so I disconnected and tried starting the car. It started ok. The thing is that, even though I didn't use the 'Recondition' setting, it must have given the battery a boost because using the car for the first time today the auto Stop-Start is suddenly working and it's only worked very intermittently in the year I've had the car - I could count the number on the fingers of one hand. I'm well impressed!
  8. They seem to be a thing of the past. They're just as useless on the Mk3/3.5. I don't think they're any better on other makes either.
  9. The charger arrived yesterday (I was amazed to get a Sunday delivery) and I'm very impressed. Everything about it looks really high quality.
  10. I had to replace a damaged complete mirror unit and in my opinion it isn't possible to access the cover clips without first unclipping the mirror glass. See my attached guide. Guide.pdf
  11. I think the fluid I've been using goes to -7 at 50% but in the year I've had the car I haven't had to top up much so this is going to be mixed with whatever was there before. I guess it would make sense to pump it out and refill with a higher concentration.
  12. David, you might be ok. What has probably happened is that the pad has worn so thin that the backing plate has started to rub on the corroded ridges that form on thedisc outside the swept area. With luck the actual swept area will still be undamaged. I would take a careful look at the inner surface of the disc when you take the old pads out. If the outer pad has indeed worn so thin and the inner one is still thick it is likely the inner one has stuck in the carrier so has not been contacting the disc much in which case you might find the inside surface is corroded.
  13. As a matter of fact both front and rear nozzles froze on my Mk3 the other week in spite of having a 50% mix of concentrate in the reservoir. I suspect the wash runs back from the nozzle and dew then freezes just inside the jet. Even though the fronts are heated they still hadn't thawed after a half-hour journey.
  14. I don't know about groves but what I meant by the grooves are the sliding faces that locate the pads in the carrier. They are what absorb the forces on the pads when braking. The caliper itself just floats and simply squeezes the pads together. It doesn't take any of the rotational forces when braking.
  15. You should never replace pads on one side only. This would badly affect side-to-side balance, at least until the new pads had fully bedded in. Always replace as an axle set.