Ford Owners Club - Ford Forums Messages

FORD FAIR – SILVERSTONE – 6TH AUGUST 2017

Join us on the Ford Owners Club stand at Ford Fair, Silverstone on Sunday 6th August 2017.

Click this link to find out more


AdBlock Warning

Parts of this website do not function properly with AdBlock enabled on your device. To get the best user experience on our website, please disable Adblock for this website (domain) on your browser.


mjt

True Ford Enthusiast
  • Content count

    948
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About mjt

  • Rank
    Too much time on the boards

Contact Methods

  • ICQ
    0
  • First Name
    Mike

Profile Information

  • Gender*
    Male
  • Ford Model
    Mk3 Tit Estate 1.0 SCTi Ecoboost 125ps
  • Ford Year
    2012
  • UK/Ireland Location
    Cambridgeshire
  • Annual Mileage
    0 to 5000

Recent Profile Visitors

6,799 profile views
  1. Hi Ian, welcome to the Forum. When looking for a replacement for our old Mk1.5 estate I decided to keep looking until I found a 125PS version as the estate is heavier than the hatch anyway. I'd recommend the 125, you may be disappointed with the 99 after your Fiesta. Also it's interesting to note that the 125 can be remapped to a higher output than a remapped 99.
  2. That sounds about right based on what I used to get from our 1.8TDCi.
  3. When undertaking a job like this you would be well advised to get a Haynes manual. Although Haynes is often deficient in the details one really wants to know it does describe the engine overhaul procedures quite well and lists all the required torque settings and tightening angles.
  4. That is simply untrue. As other contributors have stated the fuel pump is driven from the crankshaft by a duplex chain in early engines and a wet belt in later ones. The cambelt runs from an extension on the fuel pump shaft. If the fuel pump siezed it would break the chain or wet belt NOT the cambelt. Unless they are calling the wet belt a 'cambelt' they don't know what they're talking about.
  5. I think that's the key to your problem. These engines take a long time to reach operating temperature because of the amount of iron in the block. It's likely yours is spending most of its time in the warm-up phase. To get a true idea of the consumption you need to reset the mpg again and take it on a good extra-urban run, 40-50 miles as much as possible in top gear. To be honest, if your motoring is predominantly short trips a diesel is a bad choice.
  6. Isn't the tie bar the rusty curved link behind the spring in your photo?
  7. The main reason for letting the engine idle for a while is to maintain a pressurised oil supply to the turbo whilst it's spinning down.
  8. Not to mention that you might be unable to insure it.
  9. Tdci-peter is knowledgeable about canbus errors and may be able to help here. If the canbus is unreliable it can throw up all kinds of spurious faults. It might just be a connector needing to be re-seated or it might be the known issue with solder joints on the instrument cluster.
  10. I'm struggling to see what effect this could have on emissions.
  11. You hear with your eyes?
  12. The pink fluid is most likely OAT or Hybrid OAT, see an explanation of the different coolant types here. As far as I am aware all coolant types are water-soluble. It may just be that the Ford long-life stuff is pre-mixed to be used "neat".
  13. It must be a remoaner.
  14. That was only true for the old mechanically-injected engines with a manual fuel cut-off for stopping it. Modern common-rail engines such as your 1.8TDCi use electronic fuel injection so a loss of electrical power will stop the engine. Even with mechanical fuel injection if it uses a solenoid-controlled fuel cut-off (so it stops when you turn off the ignition) it won't be able to run without electrical power. Your description of the problem sounds like a dead alternator to me.
  15. Good question. I found the User Manual very vague on the operation of the CC on my Mk3 and eventually had to work it out by trial and error. It's quite simple once you understand it.