Ford Owners Club - Ford Forums Messages

Club Announcements

Ford Fair 2016: Tickets and stand passes are now available to purchase. More info here.

Review your Ford: Help others when it comes to buying a car like yours and review your Ford now

Ford Car Parts: View All ford car parts by category. Look for Ford Car Parts now!

AdBlock Warning

Parts of this website do not function properly with AdBlock enabled on your device. To get the best user experience on our website, please disable Adblock for this website (domain) on your browser.


True Ford Enthusiast
  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About mjt

  • Rank
    Too much time on the boards

Contact Methods

  • ICQ
  • First Name

Profile Information

  • Gender*
  • Ford Model
    Mk3 Tit Estate 1.0 SCTi Ecoboost 125ps
  • Ford Year
  • UK/Ireland Location
  • Annual Mileage
    0 to 5000

Recent Profile Visitors

5,477 profile views
  1. I would interpret that as meaning "water pump repair kit", which implies it was repaired rather than replaced.
  2. I don't know where the sensor is in your engine but the most obvious answer is that there is an airlock at that point because when refilling with coolant not all the air was purged out. Some engines need to be vacuum filled to eliminate air pockets.
  3. Well, we've got a bit off-topic and the subject of LED reliability has been exhaustively covered elsewhere. I was actually querying the disclaimer on the Ebay seller's page that stated they weren't road legal. As a (retired) electronics engineer I'm well aware of the shortcomings of CAN-bus friendly LEDs so would probably not be going down that route anyway but if I did I would get non CAN-bus LEDs and arrange my own ballast resistors remote from the headlamp. It would be nice to get some whiter bulbs though as the current ones do look very yellow. Trouble is on my Mk3 they come on every time I open the doors or boot so they get a lot more on-off cycles and need to be pretty robust.
  4. I was looking at this link posted by Luke Grimbley last year and noticed there's a disclaimer stating they're only for internal use as external use is not road legal. Can anyone confirm this (Stoney)?
  5. I'd say you made a wise decision as belts deteriorate with age as well as mileage. As you're having the coolant pump replaced that will require new coolant and the old auxiliary belt will need to be cut off to change pump and cambelt so that will also need to be renewed. If your model has aircon the compressor belt will also need to be cut off and renewed.
  6. That sounds like the clutch isn't disengaging. Nothing to do with the gearbox. Maybe air has got into the clutch hydraulics. When you say it's better when warmed up it could be that operating the clutch a few times has vented the air. When you had trouble getting it into gear did you try pumping the pedal?
  7. The gear change indicator is only an advisory to give you maximum mpg. Basically it just monitors road speed and load on the engine to suggest the best gear at that moment. It will even prompt you to change down if the engine is labouring. When in a queue of traffic, with speed constantly varying, you are best to ignore it and use a gear that feels comfortable to you.
  8. I extracted a plug which had a FoMoCo number 5MG5-12405-AA. Googled that and found an NGK TR6AP-13 which was also on the plug I'd taken out so you're probably right. I've also managed to find a Bosch Double Platinum 0 242 240 620. The plug I took out looked pristine and the gap was still precisely 1.3mm even though I think they're original and the car's done a bit over 30K. It's going in for a service so may tell the garage to leave them a bit longer as it's running sweetly. When I refitted it 12NM seemed barely more than finger tight so I nipped it up just a smidge tighter. I've since found the NGK and Bosch specs allow up to nearly 20NM in an alloy head. Anyway thanks for the advice Ian.
  9. Thanks Ian. Would you advise going for genuine Ford items or could I get e.g Bosch or NGK?
  10. Can anyone tell me the type number of spark plugs used on the 1.8HE engine. Neither my Haynes nor the Ford owners guide specifies it. I've done a quick search of this forum but can't find anything. Also which would be the best make to go for and what is the torque figure for tightening them? Thanks in anticipation.
  11. They both operate from the same sensor so if one is wrong they'll both be. As for the variability of your readings I'd refer you to my post earlier in this thread (dated Oct 12 2014).
  12. Again, I have to agree. The sound you describe is almost certainly coming from the DMF. Interesting comment Peter makes about the possibility of a sticky throttle pedal. Have you tried hooking your toe behind it to see if that brings the revs back down?
  13. I'd suggest that from the symptoms you've described it probably isn't the valve. To test run the engine for a while then switch off and wait for ten minutes or so. Without restarting try the brake. If it is not immediately hard and you are able to pump a few times before it goes hard the valve is ok.
  14. The Avons are on and it's all done and dusted. Thanks to everyone for your contributions.
  15. I think it's advised to disconnect the battery for half an hour when working on any part of the airbag system.