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About mjt

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    Mk3 Tit Estate 1.0 SCTi Ecoboost 125ps
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    0 to 5000

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  1. You're very welcome. Glad to be of help.
  2. I can tell you what the Haynes says - I don't have any experience with working on the vacuum pump. According to Haynes you should use a spanner on the crankshaft pulley bolt to turn the crankshaft until the pushrod is fully retracted into the cylinder head. The pushrod is operated by an eccentric on the end of the camshaft. You should have done this before removing the pump but I would guess that if you do it before refitting it should be ok.
  3. When the mpg on our old 2003 1.8TDCi suddenly took a dive it turned out to be a sticking brake caliper. Try feeling the wheel hubs after a decent run to see if one or more is getting unusually hot.
  4. In view of this I think you're making a mistake buying a diesel. That mix of driving is not really suited to one. You won't get the mpg that is acheivable from long extra-urban journeys and aside from the DPF regeneration issues diesels are likely to be penalised in future by higher charges for driving in urban areas due to high NOX levels. When I changed our Mk1.5 1.8TDCi I opted to return to petrol because I could see the way things are going. Of course that's just my personal opinion, others will disagree.
  5. Just tonight on the news I saw a Merc creating a big bow wave, about two-thirds of the way up the radiator. I thought "you're pushing your luck".
  6. The reason is that's an American site and doesn't recognise European VINs.
  7. From what I've seen on the TV people drive through floods far too fast. Many years ago I occasionally had to drive my Mini through flood water on the way to and from work. I always took it very slowly, no more than walking pace, slipping the clutch if necessary to keep the revs up and prevent water from entering the exhaust, to avoid creating a lot of wash. I never had a problem with wet electrics (and bear in mind that water getting into the distributor cap and onto the HT leads was a weak point with early Minis).
  8. I'd have thought there's a possibility that the excessive heat could affect the bonding between the linings and shoes and could also warp the drums.
  9. Anyone thinking about buying a diesel might want to have a read of this. Could knock the premium price for six.
  10. Personally I wouldn't cut off or modify the existing connector if you can avoid it. If you ever have the screen replaced that will cause problems for the installer. It's your call, though. Possibly the original end of the ribbon is made thicker to go into the connector so maybe you don't have any choice. I'd steer clear of Scotch blocks, though, because of the current. If you really must cut and extend either use a chunky choc-bloc or, preferably solder and heatshrink sleeving.
  11. It looks like it should be possible to remove the broken piece from the connector, carefully strip the insulation from the ribbon and re-insert it. Try to just peel the insulation off. It's vital not to nick or scratch the copper as that will cause a stress point and lead to another fracture. The problem you're going to have is that the repair will leave the connection shorter so it's likely to fail again unless you can pull a bit of cable through the clip. Bear in mind the windscreen takes a very high current so the connection needs to be good enough to handle it.
  12. Best advice would be to get them from your friendly Ford dealer . They'll be able to identify them on their parts catalogue. I wouldn't just buy bolts from a shop as you need to be sure they're the right grade of material. It's not worth risking it for something as safety-critical as brakes.
  13. Are you using the Sealey bleeding kit that's pressurised with a pump? If so just operate the safety valve or slightly loosen the pump to release the pressure. If you take out a bleed nipple you will see that it has a conical seating machined on the end that seals to a matching seat in the brake cylinder. Obviously if you want to take a nipple out to clean it you need to depressurise the bleeding kit otherwise you'll have fluid squirting out. I'd advise using a brake hose clamp to avoid fluid dribbling out while you're cleaning up the nipple.
  14. Many of us have been there, Peter. Life was a lot simpler then. In the case of this 1.8, though, as I've pointed out the plugs each have a dedicated coil built into the cap so all electrical feeds are low-voltage and there isn't the same possibilty of HT tracking across wet leads. Add to that the fact that the car is misbehaving after it's fully warmed up and I think that would rule out cold and damp. To me this behaviour looks very much more like a fuelling problem. In the old days you could have put it down to a partially blocked idling jet (actually most of the cars I owned that had carbs were fitted with SU's, brilliant bits of kit, so didn't suffer from that). For one who claims to have little knowledge of modern petrol cars you seem to be pretty clued up to me.
  15. Personally I have to disagree with Peter on this one. I doubt that it's an ignition problem from what you've described. Ignition coils, plugs, HT leads (on cars that have them) are more likely to break down when the engine is under load with the consequent higher compression pressures. You probably need to get it checked for DTCs. If that doesn't pinpoint anything you might even have to get it monitored for running data.